Specialized Turbo Vado SL: An Incredible E-Bike (User Club)

Trying to make it as easy as possible to transport the SL on my original-style Thule EasyFold XT rack. Problem is, the best place to clamp the lateral restraint arm is on the down tube right at the bottle bosses.

Three alternatives:
A1. Remove the bottle cage (Specialized Zee) just for transport.
A2. Move the cage to the free top tube bosses.
A3. Mount a Fidlock bottle and base on the downtube bosses.

20250115_123652.jpg

A1 is too much trouble — even with better screw access than the Zee cage allows.

20250621_160300.jpg

A2 is out. Clumsy bottle access while riding. Bottle never leaked onto the motor during trial but don't want the worry. Mounting anything there also blocks the best grip for lifting the bike, which the rack requires.

09676CLR_fidlock_twist_bottle750compact_render_explosion_bikebase-1_800x.jpg

A3 is very tempting, as the rack arm could then clamp in the ideal spot with the magnetic base still fixed to the down tube.

Two questions, please:

Q1. Anyone have Fidlock experience, any bike? (Lots of Fidlock mentions with forum search, but no follow-up reports.)

Q2. OK to keep a strong magnet right next to the SL's internal battery given the potential effect on intra-battery currents — i.e., would the alloy tube wall provide adequate magnetic shielding?

Thanks!
 
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My Bulls came with a fidlock base but no bottle. I couldn't bring myself to spend the $$ for a fancy water bottle I could only use on 1 bike.

I bet if you take your lock off its base the Thule jaws would fit nicely on the seat tube between the lock base and the stays. That's about where I clamp my bike:

1000013466.png
 
BlackHand said:
My Bulls came with a fidlock base but no bottle. I couldn't bring myself to spend the $$ for a fancy water bottle I could only use on 1 bike.

I bet if you take your lock off its base the Thule jaws would fit nicely on the seat tube between the lock base and the stays. That's about where I clamp my bike:

View attachment 198155
Click to expand...
Thanks! For now, shooting for a rack-compatible down tube bottle solution.

Seat tube bosses reserved for the lock shown and a future range extender. Keeping the SL as light as possible (no trunk bag), so nowhere else for these 2 items to go.

Sorry, misunderstood your suggestion. Will try removing just the lock itself.

Stiil interested in Fidlock questions, as the range extender on the down tube might be a different story.
 
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Stefan Mikes said:
You need the Zee cage on the seat tube for Range Extender.
Click to expand...
When that day comes, yes. Then I'll have to figure out where to put the Abus folding lock, which might or might not be secure in its holder on the top tube on bumpy surfaces. Will eventually have to test that, but not hopeful.

But for now, I'll keep the lock on the seat tube, ignore the top tube bosses, and continue to pursue a bottle on the down tube. Hence the interest in the Fidlock system — provided the magnet is safe for my battery.
 
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Jeremy McCreary said:
Trying to make it as easy as possible to transport the SL on my original-style Thule EasyFold XT rack. Problem is, the best place to clamp the lateral restraint arm is on the down tube right at the bottle bosses.

Three alternatives:
A1. Remove the bottle cage (Specialized Zee) just for transport.
A2. Move the cage to the free top tube bosses.
A3. Mount a Fidlock bottle and base on the downtube bosses.


A1 is too much trouble — even with better screw access than the Zee cage allows.


A2 is out. Clumsy bottle access while riding. Bottle never leaked onto the motor during trial but don't want the worry. Mounting anything there also blocks the best grip for lifting the bike, which the rack requires.


A3 is very tempting, as the rack arm could then clamp in the ideal spot with the magnetic base still fixed to the down tube.

Two questions, please:

Q1. Anyone have Fidlock experience, any bike? (Lots of Fidlock mentions with forum search, but no follow-up reports.)

Q2. OK to keep a strong magnet right next to the SL's internal battery given the potential effect on intra-battery currents — i.e., would the alloy tube wall provide adequate magnetic shielding?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

I have a Thule Easyfold XT 2. I usually clamp to the top tube.

I don't have fidlock on my Vado SL, but I have it on my Giant Reign e+1 2020. I bought it because there wasn't much room in the triangle for a real water bottle. I still have the mount attached. I have a few different sized water bottles that fit on the mount. I found that it worked well. You can mount it backwards on the bottle, if you prefer the twist out to be right vs left or vise versa. I'm a lefty.

Eventually I gave up, because the amount of space was limited and the amount of water I could carry in something that worked well in that space was small for mountain biking. I don't think I have used the fidlock bottle in 3 years or so, but the bracket is still there. When I'm mtb I use a camelback.

Anyway... I do like it for what it is, just didn't work for me. On my vado sl, never needed it because a regular holder works fine. I wouldn't want to clamp onto the fidlock plastic bracket (if that's what you were thinking). I don't think it's strong enough for that.
 
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mogulman said:
I wouldn't want to clamp onto the fidlock plastic bracket (if that's what you were thinking). I don't think it's strong enough for that.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the Fidlock experience!

Top tube will eventually be taken in my case. The plan is to put the clamp jaws to the right and left of the down tube bracket (as seen from the saddle). If the bracket's as low-profile as it looks, hoping nothing will touch it. We'll know in a week.
 
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Does everybody regularly charge to 80%?

I am not really a reader of manuals so I have to admit to not doing this and have been charging to max each time.
 
2wheelsgood said:
Does everybody regularly charge to 80%?

I am not really a reader of manuals so I have to admit to not doing this and have been charging to max each time.
Click to expand...
Reserving 20+20 = 40% of a 320W ebike battery in the name of battery service life is a pretty big ask.

I probably average closer to 90% max charge but go to 100% the night before rides likely to eat a lot of battery. I do this mostly to stay out of the 0-20% range.

Which raises the question — which is worse, charging to above 80%, or discharging to below 20%?
 
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Went to my SL 1's official product page to check some specs.

Screenshot_20250822_162807_Chrome.jpg

Still for sale at the full retail price I paid for my "new" 2022 model in September, 2024. All sizes available.

Interesting that this bike's still at full price when so many other older Specialized models have been discounted. Maybe it's the niche market: The folks who want them want them bad, so remaining inventory will eventually sell?
 
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