Clean Custom Conversions

[Gionnirocket]

Edit: The saddle has a blue logo on the back that says in white lowercase cursive ism and on the side is says sport. I just noticed when I put it on the charger.

I had a similar one that claimed it kept you in the saddle under extreme g-forces.. It had g-ism written on the back

 

[PedalUma]

A young teen and his grandmother purchased a single speed Schwinn coaster brake used bike in new condition at a church sale for $70. They do not have much money and wanted a simple low cost conversion. I just did this. And, yes the time stamp is off.

 

[PedalUma]

@Frank/Delaware
It is a lot of fun even if it can be ghost pedaled. It is the very most basic eBike I have ever ridden.

S861 Display Programing for a coaster brake single speed cruiser: These displays typically have 20 settings. This on just has 9. Long press Up and Down, and scroll using the power button.

I set P06 to 6 minutes. He can still say Hi to a buddy on a multi-use path. I set P07 to a 31Km speed limit, given that the gearing is so low he will spin out at a cadence of 90 at 15 mph anyway. For all my settings 1= 26.4 accounting for the 2.25 tires. 2=96. 3=3. 4=1, 5=36V. 6=6. 7=31 8=3. 9=0.

P01 is wheel diameter.

P02 is the factory number of magnets in this motor

P03 is no throttle, pedal only. (1 is only throttle, 2 both.

P04 I do not recall.

P05 is voltage.

P06 Timeout off.

P07 is speed in Kph.

P08 is how it gets speed data.

P09 I don’t recall. But I know that you are not supposed to change it. Maybe it is max amps protection.

 

[PedalUma]

This bike has been to Burning Man five times and was never washed. Two of those years were mud pit rain years. It was rusted to hell. The chain was rusted solid. I finished the conversion this morning. How long does it take to replace a seatpost; ten-hours.

 

[PedalUma]

She is a friend. I know her husband well and her kid doesn't normally talk to anyone outside of family but he talks to me enthusiastically. They have me over for things such as Christmas dinner. We have bike rides, picnics and fly kites. She is close to the age of my eldest son. I am sort of an adopted uncle. The creativity class has been fun and I am coming up with novel solutions. I have been waking up at 4:AM for the past few days to come in and work on bikes. Now I am beginning to feel it. And it is only 10:30 AM here.

 

[PedalUma]

I am not allowed to read or post for a week. No streaming. No books. No radio. It is part of that class assignment.

 

[PedalUma]

I made this whale shaped chart for programing 48V batteries. The idea is to get the same miles per bar. The drop in volts on the first bar used is 3V and the drop of the final bar is 4.3V. The gray area on the chart per bar is the same area. If each bar instead had a voltage drop of 3.6V, the miles on the first bar used would be much higher then the final bar.

 

[Gionnirocket]

I am not allowed to read or post for a week. No streaming. No books. No radio. It is part of that class assignment.

Worked well... You should make it a full time assignment

 

[PedalUma]

Worked well... You should make it a full time assignment

It sure boosted my productivity last week.
You won't believe the bikes people are bringing in if I told you. It is like Bears on Wheels. The tandem comes apart in three sections and fits into two suitcases. It is getting a front hub motor to assist a bit with the hills around here. Then when it goes to places such a Portugal in the Winter, the motor drops out, the battery removed, and the original front wheel is used. The rickshaw needs to carry 600 pounds up hill. The first step is to remove all the old electrical. It will take so much work. I will need to remove the large Dutch motor but preserve the differential. It is rusted to hell. It gets a new motorcycle lever left, rear. Then as a last step, I need to have a new top made for it. That maker is already on it.

 

[EMGX]

Under "clean (and easy) conversions" I doubt if anything current comes close to Keyde hub motors. Simply swap in the wheel, single wire to battery (Keyde batteries are UL certified) and phone app to control.

I've had mid drive, friction drive, this Keyde hub drive on this old mountain bike. Everything has advantages/disadvantages but this allows original 3x10 gearing which mid drives don't, 11 speed cassette compatible rather than typical DIY hub drives which have spin on 7 speed freewheel, and actual usable assist vs friction drive (don't even bother). Weighed with hanging scale without battery this bike is 32.8#. Without the heavy steerer extender and long stem, sans kickstand, lighter 1x or 2x crankset, lighter than Schwalbe Marathon tires and sans the generous amount of Flatout, lighter carbon fork and I think this old mountain bike would easily be sub 30# without battery - probably ~28#, depending. Keyde 10.5ah battery weighs 4#. I'm surprised that there aren't more posts on this and other forums about this system. Not perfect but pretty good IMO.

 

[PedalUma]

@EMXG, Is the controller inside the motor. Very clean. Nice work.

 

[EMGX]

Yes controller is in motor. It is lower power compared to my mid drives TSDZ2 and Yamaha at 35nm but retaining the original drive train and light weight is nice. Also it's only cadence sensing, they do make a higher power (45 or 50nm) same dimension unit that has an inclinometer and some sort of torque sensing function - I almost purchased one of those but refrained.

 

[PedalUma]

Some cadence sensor bikes can be programed in about 20 ways. I make them start at 1 volt, without delay, or lag, and I take the overrun time way down. Having some power is like washing your hands in warm water. It is nice and does not need to be ice cold with no power or boiling hot with power.

 

[EMGX]

The low available gearing with this bike, ~16 gear inches, makes up for lower power. I don't mind climbing slowly on steep hills, it gives good assist on moderate climbs and I don't need assist on flatter grades so it works well enough for me. It has an internal temp sensor which I watch on climbs and back off assist if it heats up, which hasn't been an issue except on very hot days on long steep climbs in highest assist. No problems while keeping assist in lower levels in that case, which is still helpful.

 

[PedalUma]

I set my mid-drives to go into a 30% power limp mode until the internal temp goes under 100C. I do not know anyone who has done that yet, but this region is cool in the Summer. The rider can still go but not at normal power levels. I can also be safely set in programing to 90% of controller capacity which is 20 amps on a 48V nominal, not for speed but for big climbs. That is 864W on a 500W nominal motor when setting the max to 18 amps. One bike packer was chased by seven hunting hounds and got away. My thinking there is that for a single and senior bike packer, having power on tap in a crisis is about as important as having stopping power.