cross current s question(s)

I’m never one to discourage needless bike upgrades :) but they do make 9sp Shimano Shadow Plus derailleurs if you just want to change out the derailleur. Technically a 10sp derailleur should work in a 9sp system but the slightly narrower 10sp chain could cause issues on a 9sp cassette. Derailleurs are ‘dumb’ devices that move a specified amount when the cable is pulled/released by the shifter. So as long as the cable pull ratios are the same they don’t care how many gears the cassette has.

Also, I believe the Shimano 11sp MTB systems are compatible with 10sp hubs. So you should be able to install an 11sp cassette on the Cross Current. It’s the road bike stuff that requires a wider rear hub to run 11sp (I know this from personal experience on my road bikes.)

https://www.google.com/search?q=shi...&ved=0ahUKEwi4m8P_yYDaAhXqh1QKHbsuBq0QgTYIxAQ
 
Last edited:
Dunbar said:
they do make 9sp Shimano Shadow Plus derailleurs if you just want to change out the derailleur.
Click to expand...

Unless I have not been keeping up, no, Shimano does not make 9 speed Shadow+ derailleurs. The do make 9 speed Shadow, but not with a clutch (which is the "+" indicates).
 
Nova Haibike said:
Unless I have not been keeping up, no, Shimano does not make 9 speed Shadow+ derailleurs. The do make 9 speed Shadow, but not with a clutch (which is the "+" indicates).
Click to expand...

Good to know, I am not very well versed on the mountain bike stuff. Like you said, they need to make the old stuff ‘obselete’ so we all spend money on the latest and greatest products.
 
LOL - back to the OP's original question. Buy the bike! You'll love it! (and I am not being sarcastic by any means - it really is a great bike).
 
I've got a little over 360 miles on a 2nd generation CCS, with the Sapim spokes. I've had no spoke problems at all, and I'm a heavy guy (~300 lbs with gear.) I'm not aware of any spoke issues with 2nd generation CCS from others. There were lots of posts about breakage before the change to Sapim, so it seems like this problem is improved.

Chain drop: I've had two. One early on that I believe was associated with a link that was too tight. That link caused problems with pedaling before it was fixed; it felt like it might drop, and shifts were poor. Since it was fixed, about 300 miles ago, no problems shifting, and only one chain drop, 2-3 days ago.

I'm going to shorten the chain a couple of links. I'm also thinking about one of these puppies. That being said,i don't worry much about it. It's easy to fix. Find a stick or leaf and I don't even get grease on my fingers. Worst case, I'd have to use the throttle to get home.
 
We have a article about this: Its somewhat common on this kind of setup, especially with such tight clearance and now 1x are popular as you can get big gear range on one cassette. We use maybe the tightest RC for any e-bike on the market and 700c wheel. It is the same as the Specialized Crosstrail which is remarkable for an ebike and more so when you consider we needed to fit the biggest tire 700c x 45c and fenders with a hub motor! This issue is also reported by our supplier, to the point that they are even making their own chain catcher.

https://juicedbikes.happyfox.com/kb...ring-when-going-over-bumps-or-shifting-gears/

Chain comes off the front chainring when going over bumps or shifting gears
The design of the CCS/CC is on the very edge of the shifting envelope. It uses a 1X setup front 52T with a tiny 11T rear sprocket for comfortable pedaling at higher speeds.

This combined with a very short RC (rear center) for dynamic handling may lead to the chain drops in certain conditions. It will be more prevalent if the chain has stretched a little or if the derailleurs is not optimally adjusted.

Also due to limited spacing of the short RC, an inside chain guide cannot be used.

There are a few things you do to prevent the chain drops :

1. Make sure the derailleurs is properly adjusted.

2. Shorten your chain by a few links.

3. Avoid rapid up shifts.

4. Use a chain catcher such as (K-Edge Chain Catcher 31.8mm version)
 
Thanks for the reply Tora. After reading reviews on chain guides, it seems this is a fairly common problem on many different Ebikes (many comments about adding "X" chain guide to "Y" ebike), and regular bikes as well. I was also wondering if a spacer could be used to push the chainring out from the bottom bracket enough to create space for an inside chainring guide???
 
Reid said:
Unfortunately, when we upgrade to a 10 speed derailleur we absolutely have to fit also a 10 speed shifter and a 10 speed cassette.

This is basically because the index ratio of 9s to 10s is different, that is the movement-per-shifter-click of the 10S derailleur is inherently different in the derailleur, itself. It cannot practically perform 9S indexing, no matter what shifter is used.

I chose:

$31 for a Shimano SLX 10s trigger shifter, with visual indicatorsimilar to the 9S Altus it replaces.
$30 for ZTTO wide range 11T-42T 10s cassette.
$22 for KMX X10.93 10s chain
$65 for this 10s Shimano (get the long cage!) Shadow Plus derailleur. Other Shimanos are candidates, too. Mine is 2014 vintage and found discounted because 10s stuff is years out of style already. Bear in mind, too: our rear hub motors cannot accept 11s cassettes. 11s requires a wider cassette and an 11s hub (or otherwise some fancy custom machining of the 11s cassette) and wider rear frame. However, we save money when upgrading by buying this outdated 10s stuff that still works every bit as good as the newest 11s and 12s gear we as ebikers don't need at all.

It was all easy to install, using YouTube videos for guides. I had no previous experience with this stuff and enjoyed the learning process. Changing out the cassette was the most challenging. But not really hard at all with YT videos.
Click to expand...

Hi Reid-Like to jump in a bit regarding the clutch system on the Shimano Shadow plus (clutch switch). I am currently looking at a bike that has the Deore M6000 derailleur groupset. When using the clutch switch in the down position (more chain slap), does shifting become much easier to move through gears opposed to it being in the up position? I have never used a derailleur with a clutch before and was curious about it's functionality. Thanks!
 
In my experience the Shadow Plus derailleurs don’t shift any differently with the clutch engaged or disengaged. When taking the wheel on/off you will probably want to turn the clutch off to make that process easier.
 
Tora Harris said:
We have a article about this: Its somewhat common on this kind of setup, especially with such tight clearance and now 1x are popular as you can get big gear range on one cassette. We use maybe the tightest RC for any e-bike on the market and 700c wheel. It is the same as the Specialized Crosstrail which is remarkable for an ebike and more so when you consider we needed to fit the biggest tire 700c x 45c and fenders with a hub motor! This issue is also reported by our supplier, to the point that they are even making their own chain catcher.

https://juicedbikes.happyfox.com/kb...ring-when-going-over-bumps-or-shifting-gears/

Chain comes off the front chainring when going over bumps or shifting gears
The design of the CCS/CC is on the very edge of the shifting envelope. It uses a 1X setup front 52T with a tiny 11T rear sprocket for comfortable pedaling at higher speeds.

This combined with a very short RC (rear center) for dynamic handling may lead to the chain drops in certain conditions. It will be more prevalent if the chain has stretched a little or if the derailleurs is not optimally adjusted.

Also due to limited spacing of the short RC, an inside chain guide cannot be used.

There are a few things you do to prevent the chain drops :

1. Make sure the derailleurs is properly adjusted.

2. Shorten your chain by a few links.

3. Avoid rapid up shifts.

4. Use a chain catcher such as (K-Edge Chain Catcher 31.8mm version)
Click to expand...
Should I get the single or double version of the chain catcher?
 
From what I can tell, the CCS should use the single. The chain guard on the outside of the chainring would make the double hard to fit without rubbing. You could possibly take the chainguard off, but I don't know how well it would work. Another member "SlowRider" posted pics of the single installed on his CCS. Here's a link to the thread post #316. https://electricbikereview.com/foru...s-products-help-solutions-fixes.13163/page-16
 
Chris Hammond said:
From what I can tell, the CCS should use the single. The chain guard on the outside of the chainring would make the double hard to fit without rubbing. You could possibly take the chainguard off, but I don't know how well it would work. Another member "SlowRider" posted pics of the single installed on his CCS. Here's a link to the thread post #316. https://electricbikereview.com/foru...s-products-help-solutions-fixes.13163/page-16
Click to expand...
Thanks, the Amazon page was a little confusing.
 
Does anyone know if this K-Edge will catch the chain bouncing off to the right side of the chain ring when you are on the 11t gear? I keep getting my chain stuck between the chain guard and chain ring whenever I'm going fast and hitting bumps. I never get the chain dropping off to the left side at all. I heard you can also turn the chain guard 180 degrees. I'll try that today as well. But I'm hoping one of these solutions will be a permanent fix. I've already got a new kmc chain and shortened to 114 links but the drop offs came back.
 
Harry L said:
Does anyone know if this K-Edge will catch the chain bouncing off to the right side of the chain ring when you are on the 11t gear? I keep getting my chain stuck between the chain guard and chain ring whenever I'm going fast and hitting bumps. I never get the chain dropping off to the left side at all. I heard you can also turn the chain guard 180 degrees. I'll try that today as well. But I'm hoping one of these solutions will be a permanent fix. I've already got a new kmc chain and shortened to 114 links but the drop offs came back.
Click to expand...
The K edge won't stop the chain from bouncing off to the right. I hoped it would, but no luck. A narrow-wide front sprocket will help, but it didn't solve my problem entirely.
The chainring guard on my CCS is flat, so mounting it backwards doesn't do anything.
I, like a few others on the forum, upgraded the derailleur to a Shimano Shadow Plus. It has a much stronger spring mechanism and a "clutch" designed to minimize chain slap.
There are different ways to go about the swap, some guys go for the full ten speed conversion, since the Shadow Plus is a ten speed derailleur and that makes sense. The shadow plus is not available in a 9 speed model, but it works fine on my 9 speed cassette. I had to switch the shifter to a Sram x5 (9 speed) because it's a 1 to 1 pull ratio.
The narrow-wide sprocket, Shadow Plus Deore derailleur and the Sram X5 shifter cost a little over a hundred bucks. The work was easy to do myself. I had no bicycle mechanic experience when I undertook it, I recommend Park Tool's website, videos on how to adjust the derailleur.
I'm running a KMC 9 speed chain, 116 links with a 56 tooth chainring.
The difference is night and day. It's a whole new bike. The shifting is sharp and the chain behaves as it should.
If anybody wants to buy a K edge chain guide I'll sell mine cheap.
 
Last edited:
MisterBritcom said:
The K edge won't stop the chain from bouncing off to the right. I hoped it would, but no luck. A narrow-wide front sprocket will help, but it didn't solve my problem entirely.
The chainring guard on my CCS is flat, so mounting it backwards doesn't do anything.
I, like a few others on the forum, upgraded the derailleur to a Shimano Shadow Plus. It has a much stronger spring mechanism and a "clutch" designed to minimize chain slap.
There are different ways to go about the swap, some guys go for the full ten speed conversion, since the Shadow Plus is a ten speed derailleur and that makes sense. The shadow plus is not available in a 9 speed model, but it works fine on my 9 speed cassette. I had to switch the shifter to a Sram x5 (9 speed) because it's a 1 to 1 pull ratio.
The narrow-wide sprocket, Shadow Plus Deore derailleur and the Sram X5 shifter cost a little over a hundred bucks. The work was easy to do myself. I had no bicycle mechanic experience when I undertook it, I recommend Park Tool's website, videos on how to adjust the derailleur.
I'm running a KMC 9 speed chain, 116 links with a 56 tooth chainring.
The difference is night and day. It's a whole new bike. The shifting is sharp and the chain behaves as it should.
If anybody wants to buy a K edge chain guide I'll sell mine cheap.
Click to expand...

Thanks! That just saved me some headache. I was hoping I didn't have to do the transmission swap but I guess that's where everyone eventually ends up anyway. Oh well. Wishful thinking that I could get around it.
 
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