Zen Photon Pro - Disc Brake Pad Replacement

[PCeBiker]

I should have bought a Zen.

I've spent over $8,500 CAD on the two e-bikes I have and all the tools and lubes and tires and fun stuff to buy for the bikes.

But if I had a Zen I wouldn't have anything to fix or upgrade.
All I could do is ride it, and that's only half the fun for me.

 

[Blunoser]

Mud takes a fairly aggressive knob to overcome no doubt, I won't be in mud that much so went moderate and hope it is the right tire. I think the Zen is pretty good right out of the box, but I went with the fox fork as I know how to service that brand and feel I can keep it going for a long time. Also got the suspension seat post(Kinekt) as I'm used to a full suspension MTB. Once I fine tune the bars, seat, etc. I believe you are right and it won't need anything for a while. No worries though as I have plenty of other things to keep running like two old cars, motorbikes, house and so on. It will be nice to have one thing that is low maintenance for a change.

 

[Blunoser]

BTW, sorry Cincy for somewhat hijacking your post. I'll be interested how your brake bleed goes, as I will have the same brakes on my bike. Already have the kit and have used it many times. Like someone said earlier, it can go really easy or can be a bit of a pain. Once you get it you will have a great sense of accomplishment, that you fixed it yourself.

 

[PCeBiker]

Mud takes a fairly aggressive knob to overcome no doubt,..

Actually, it wasn't mud at the time. I stay well away from mud after my incident last year,..

The trail had dried up hard and long grass was growing between the "tracks", so it was hard to judge the depth of the rut. It could have been up to 3" deep?

 

[PCeBiker]

BTW, sorry Cincy for somewhat hijacking your post. I'll be interested how your brake bleed goes, as I will have the same brakes on my bike.

With that being said, I managed to bleed my brakes from the top by just adding brake fluid and flicking the brake line and brake lever a zillion times.
I actually removed the cover from the brake reservoir and I could see the bubbles rising into the reservoir.

It's way simpler to do than bleeding the brakes, unless it's time to change your fluid.

I don't know if that method will work for your 4 piston brakes though?


Here's some helpful video links,..

Here's a cool tool you can buy to bleed like a pro,..

 

[PCeBiker]

This Dorky chick shows how to bleed from the lever.
It's for Shimano brakes, but it's essentially the same for Tektro.

During my first attempt at a lever bleed, I bumped the funnel, broke it off at the plastic threads, and spilt half a bottle of mineral oil all over the handlebars and down to the rotor and pads.

Try not to do that if can.

Now I just drip to fluid in at the fill hole with a rag wrapped around the reservoir.
(I didn't want to buy another kit just to get the funnel.)

 

[CincyKid]

I should have bought a Zen.

I've spent over $8,500 CAD on the two e-bikes I have and all the tools and lubes and tires and fun stuff to buy for the bikes.

But if I had a Zen I wouldn't have anything to fix or upgrade.
All I could do is ride it, and that's only half the fun for me.

You should still have bought a Zen. I have upgraded the handle bars. And, will be bleeding brakes...
As for stuff to do, I would rather tinker with video than making my bike rideable...

 

[Blunoser]

The part I'm really looking forward to is not constantly cleaning and lubing a chain. So sick of that after decades of doing it.

 

[CincyKid]

This Dorky chick shows how to bleed from the lever.
It's for Shimano brakes, but it's essentially the same for Tektro.

During my first attempt at a lever bleed, I bumped the funnel, broke it off at the plastic threads, and spilt half a bottle of mineral oil all over the handlebars and down to the rotor and pads.

Try not to do that if can.

Now I just drip to fluid in at the fill hole with a rag wrapped around the reservoir.
(I didn't want to buy another kit just to get the funnel.)


View attachment 180919

I enjoy the Syd and Mackey channel. They do a good job of showing just how easy it is to bleed brakes, though.

 

[PCeBiker]

I enjoy the Syd and Mackey channel. They do a good job of showing just how easy it is to bleed brakes, though.

As far as I know, a lever bleed works for most brakes.
When I bled my brakes, I removed each caliper (I didn't disconnect the brake line) and rolled it around while flicking it to help feed any bubbles up to the brake line input.

I figured that the reason a lever bleed doesn't always work is because a bubble gets trapped in the caliper and can't float its way up to the reservoir.

Perhaps a 4 piston caliper is more inclined to trap bubbles, and a proper bleed is necessary?

 

[PCeBiker]

I enjoy the Syd and Mackey channel.

Yeah they're fine.
I added their channel to my list.

I'm gonna watch the Fox Shocks videos.
My Suntour shocks are probably simila, so I should have a good idea what to expect when I take them apart.
I'm sure I'll find some excuse to service them.

 

[Blunoser]

You should be able to find Suntour specific info as there are a lot of them about. It's a good idea to do a regular service to them, I have a 13 year old Fox equipped MTB that I keep after and it is as good as the day I got it. Better in fact as I put SKF low friction dust seals on it. If you like to tinker you will enjoy the forks, they are fairly simple and they work noticeably smoother when freshly serviced. Also greatly extends the lifespan of them.

 

[PCeBiker]

You should be able to find Suntour specific info as there are a lot of them about.

I found one video where they showed factory testing of a Suntour spring shock.
They pounded the living snot out of them and they didn't break.

It's a good idea to do a regular service to them, I have a 13 year old Fox equipped MTB that I keep after and it is as good as the day I got it.

As long as I don't feel obligated to service my forks every 40 hours, then I'll be fine.
I've already got WAY More hours than that.

Better in fact as I put SKF low friction dust seals on it.

Kool ,.. I know SKF.
They are one of the very few bearing manufacturers that actually make properly sealed wheel bearings for my car.
Crap bearings only have dust covers and water gets in.

If you like to tinker you will enjoy the forks, they are fairly simple and they work noticeably smoother when freshly serviced.

Well, actually I'm a little overwhelmed right now,..

I'm watching another vid by Syd about setting up my suspension and I think that I might need shock tokens, but I'm not sure?
I had already figured out which way to turn the dials by simply turning them both (front and rear) all the to the and the , then bouncing around on my bike.
I've got 32 clicks up front and 9 at the back.
I left them both at the softest ( I think )

Syd Said, if your wheel doesn't bounce then you're good.
I've not noticed any wheel bounce, but I've got a ~90 pound e-bike.
I don't know if that's any different?


I keep forgetting what shocks I have because I can't remember how to spell it, let alone say the word? Is it a word? Three vowels followed by a consonant?

Suntour AION
EH EEE I OH AND YOU and sometimes WHY?

My forks are available with 3 or 4 different travel amounts.

Mine have 160 mm of travel but I can get the exact same fork, for the same money, with only 100 mm of travel if I want.
So do they just add more shock tokens to the suspension to reduce the travel?

I'm just reduced my travel by cranking up my air pressure.
I don't do any platform landing so maybe I don't need any shock tokens?

Also greatly extends the lifespan of them.

Not if you're like me and break stuff when you take it apart to see what makes it tick.

My dad used to say, "If it ain't broke, Don't Fix It!"
I'd say, "Don't worry, I'm sure I'll break something while fixing it."

 

[CincyKid]

Quick update. Bought a bleed kit from Amazon. Rigged a method to hang my bike from a ladder (rear) and 1 inch webbing (front) from the rafter in the garage. Did the bleed. Lots of small bubbles. I did not do anything to the brake pads. Didn't even take the wheels off the bike. Just a lever bleed.

I found I need to push the bike over a bit to get the bleed hole in the lever to be the highest part of the system while flicking the brake lever.

Results? Much more lever. A very solid feel. However...

I must have pads and/or disc or both completely glazed. I will tackle this to see if I can get a more solid grab. Currently, I grab the brakes but the brakes don't grab the wheel.

 

[Blunoser]

Sounds like you are halfway there. Unless you had full metal pads (not likely), if you got the brakes hot enough to boil the fluid you also got hem plenty hot enough to glaze most pads too. Worth trying to sand them a bit, but some pads won't respond to that once they are cooked. When you take them out giving them a really close look to make sure there is no brake fluid leaking anywhere is a good idea.
Could be time for new ones, if you have Tektro brakes these are probably the same shape as the 4 piston Shimano ones and are pretty common. I will repeat my earlier statement, if you are going to do the same type of sustained downhill braking in the future you might want to give full metal(sintered) pads a try. They can be a bit noisier, but are much more tolerant of heat and as a bonus they last a lot longer too. I have a set (Zitto brand) on the way I'm going to try myself just for giggles. Not too many big hills in my usual rides but I expect my average speed to go up with the ebike, and there is a lot of stop and go on our rail trails in the popular areas. A surplus of brakes is a good thing in my book, so long as they are not too touchy.

 

[juggernaut]

I have 2 piston Tektro brakes on my hardtail ebike. It was originally fitted with Tektro organic pads (green backing plate) which were garbage on a derestricted bike. I soon swapped them to their metal ceramic compound (red backing plate) which are night and day difference to the organic pads.

 

[Blunoser]

I found one video where they showed factory testing of a Suntour spring shock.
They pounded the living snot out of them and they didn't break.



As long as I don't feel obligated to service my forks every 40 hours, then I'll be fine.
I've already got WAY More hours than that.



Kool ,.. I know SKF.
They are one of the very few bearing manufacturers that actually make properly sealed wheel bearings for my car.
Crap bearings only have dust covers and water gets in.



Well, actually I'm a little overwhelmed right now,..

I'm watching another vid by Syd about setting up my suspension and I think that I might need shock tokens, but I'm not sure?
I had already figured out which way to turn the dials by simply turning them both (front and rear) all the to the and the , then bouncing around on my bike.
I've got 32 clicks up front and 9 at the back.
I left them both at the softest ( I think )

Syd Said, if your wheel doesn't bounce then you're good.
I've not noticed any wheel bounce, but I've got a ~90 pound e-bike.
I don't know if that's any different?


I keep forgetting what shocks I have because I can't remember how to spell it, let alone say the word? Is it a word? Three vowels followed by a consonant?

Suntour AION
EH EEE I OH AND YOU and sometimes WHY?

My forks are available with 3 or 4 different travel amounts.

Mine have 160 mm of travel but I can get the exact same fork, for the same money, with only 100 mm of travel if I want.
So do they just add more shock tokens to the suspension to reduce the travel?

I'm just reduced my travel by cranking up my air pressure.
I don't do any platform landing so maybe I don't need any shock tokens?

Not if you're like me and break stuff when you take it apart to see what makes it tick.

My dad used to say, "If it ain't broke, Don't Fix It!"
I'd say, "Don't worry, I'm sure I'll break something while fixing it."

Somehow I missed this reply. They change the travel by swapping out a shaft in the air side of the fork. I wouldn't worry about tokens, they just reduce the volume of the air chamber so the fork is more progressive under compression. If you have the fork set up well(usually about 20-25% sag) and it bottoms on a regular basis then maybe tokens are called for. Your fork will provide more front tire grip in general if you don't have it pumped up way too firm, and a nicer ride too. Same goes for the rear shock. If you are limiting travel for ground clearance reasons than you will have to compromise.

I'm not familiar with Suntour forks at all but you should be able to find a user/set up manual for them, that details the correct pressures based on your weight. Fox is around 1psi per kg of rider weight for example, and yours are likely close to that. Said manual will also point you in the right direction regarding rebound settings too. I'm a lighter guy(160lbs.) and mine are mostly open (rabbit), maybe 2-3 clicks from open, with ~75psi in the fork for example. This gives me 25-30% sag, and I never bottom out.

 

[Blunoser]

I have 2 piston Tektro brakes on my hardtail ebike. It was originally fitted with Tektro organic pads (green backing plate) which were garbage on a derestricted bike. I soon swapped them to their metal ceramic compound (red backing plate) which are night and day difference to the organic pads.

This is good info, I'll wait to see what pads are in my brakes(Tektro E725) when the bike gets here. If they are green, I'll probably swap them out right away as I rely on having great brakes. I have a few different pads for my MTB that are supposed to fit so time to experiment it will be. BTW, I think your T-rex is one of the best looking ebikes I've ever seen. I hope my Photon with the same motor works as well as yours does for you.

 

[il Munduato]

I'd do as suggested above and sand the pads with some fine grit wet/dry sandpaper for paint/metal (the autobody stuff) and then clean them and the rotor with isopropyl alcohol.
Not a big fan of all metallic pads unless totally necessary as they eat rotors.
Ceramic pads give the best compromise of braking power with no noise and the ability to handle heat.

 

[Blunoser]

I forgot about the rotor wear issue. This is mostly when the pads don’t get up to a good temp. Still a good reason to avoid them if not needed.
I was curious so looked up the E725 brakes and they seem to be supplied with yellow plate pads that are metal/ceramic based. I will give them a fair chance once I get the bike. I am fairly light so can probably get away with using lower temp pads as much of my riding is somewhat flat but high speed.