Work Stand for Vado

@Sierratim thanks. For me this being new still is big challenge to raise with one arm and clamp with other.
today I placed the front wheel on a stool, raised the bike over the front wheel and clamped it. This worked fairly easy.
clamping to the top tube is easier but you guys are discouraging me to to it that way.
I do tend to agree with the "don't clamp the top tube" thinking re Vado's. My assumption is that the tubing is butted to save weight, but not compromise strength for normal cycling loads. Butted tubing is thinner in the middle than the ends so it would be weaker to vertical, i.e. clamping, loads. With that said, I am OK with securing my Vado by the top tube with a light clamping pressure when the bike is well balanced in the clamp. I don't rotate the bike when clamped by the top tube. I've only done this a time or two when I needed to use our older free standing bike stand for a quick fix.
 
How do you lift that heavy bike and clamp it to the seat post? Any advice?
Hi,
I lift it as SierraTim described, remove battery, lift with left arm and clamp with right hand.

One nice large ceiling mounted pulley to lift the bike with a rope first would halve the force to pull the bike up to the clamp.
 
Hi,
I lift it as SierraTim described, remove battery, lift with left arm and clamp with right hand.

One nice large ceiling mounted pulley to lift the bike with a rope first would halve the force to pull the bike up to the clamp.
I'm not familiar with any setup that will yield a 2:1 advantage with a single pulley. Can you share your setup?

Here's a very rough sketch of the 2:1 pulley setup I use to store our canoe (one setup at each end). This same setup could be used to reduce the force needed to lift a bike by 1/2. These setups work by exchanging rope travel for lifting force; you pull twice as much rope but at 1/2 the force. Multi-wheel pulleys can be used (with more rope) to get even more mechanical advantage; 3:1, 4:1, etc.
 

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I found both that my old Ultimate work stand will work fine with my Vado, and also that I can get it onto the stand myself by just lifting one end at a time. I've posted photos that show this, where I can lift the rear up and get the clamp onto the seatpost, then rotate the bike and tighten down the rotation clutch to keep the front end from rotating back down. From there I can lift the bike on the stand as usual to get it at a reasonable height.

The only problem with the Ultimate is that the clutch lockdown is just a circular knob and it's tough to tighten it enough by hand to hold the weight. It's also a good thing to do this without the battery, since it not only makes the bike a bit lighter, but the battery is all weight ahead of the clamp point and would make it even harder to get it to hold. I think that newer stands have more of a lever that you can grab onto.

And by the way, how do those of you using the top tube method clamp onto it? That's a tapered cross section and my clamp is definitely made to work only with round or at least straight-sided tubing. I'd definitely not try to use it on my Vado.

Disclaimer: My garage floor is not normally this dirty, but it gets messy during the winter and it hasn't been warm enough for spring cleaning yet! ;)
 

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I found both that my old Ultimate work stand will work fine with my Vado, and also that I can get it onto the stand myself by just lifting one end at a time. I've posted photos that show this, where I can lift the rear up and get the clamp onto the seatpost, then rotate the bike and tighten down the rotation clutch to keep the front end from rotating back down. From there I can lift the bike on the stand as usual to get it at a reasonable height.

The only problem with the Ultimate is that the clutch lockdown is just a circular knob and it's tough to tighten it enough by hand to hold the weight. It's also a good thing to do this without the battery, since it not only makes the bike a bit lighter, but the battery is all weight ahead of the clamp point and would make it even harder to get it to hold. I think that newer stands have more of a lever that you can grab onto.

And by the way, how do those of you using the top tube method clamp onto it? That's a tapered cross section and my clamp is definitely made to work only with round or at least straight-sided tubing. I'd definitely not try to use it on my Vado.

Disclaimer: My garage floor is not normally this dirty, but it gets messy during the winter and it hasn't been warm enough for spring cleaning yet! ;)
Garage looks great! Nice to have a place to work.

BTW - Still snowing here in the Sierras. Looking forward to a ride in the near future.
 
Garage looks great! Nice to have a place to work.

BTW - Still snowing here in the Sierras. Looking forward to a ride in the near future.
I usually have my newer bikes in the basement where I can really work on them easily in my shop, but since we're this close to having rideable weather it's not worth the hassle to get it there only to have to carry it back up in a couple of weeks.
 
I use the Park PCS-10. Always remove the battery. Usually clamp onto the Thudbuster, though sometimes the top tube. Works perfectly for me.
 
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I use the Park PCS-10. Alway remove the battery. Usually clamp onto the Thudbuster, though sometimes the top tube. Works perfectly for me.
Do you have a Vado? If so, the PCS must have a different type of clamp as mine would not work well clamping onto a tapered top tube like the Vado. My clamp has strictly parallel jaws.
 
I do have a Vado. Now that you mention it I may have not tried that with the Vado yet. I will try it and report back.
 
The Park Tool PRS-25 in my practice 😊 Vado --even without the battery -- is a heavy bike but everything is doable. Thanks to all who made me want that stand!

1585652846907.png

In near future, I will take the wheels off, replace inner tubes and wash the Vado thoroughly!

1585652957839.png

The bike can be rotated!
 
Please let me know if you use a work stand for cleaning and repair of your ebike?

what are your experiences.

Do you take the battery out before mounting your bike in stand?

I just ordered a Park 10.2.

My old cheap one was too wobbly For heavy ebike.
My Rad Rover step through is pretty new so I have not needed to clean it or even lube the chain yet. With no cross bar I wasn't even sure how a bike stand would even work plus they were kind of pricey. What I did was buy a ceiling mount bike storage rig that I mounted on a beam near the center of my garage. It was around $25 on Amazon and rated for 125Lbs. It does easily lift the bike off the floor so it should work fine to maintain the bike.
 
I found both that my old Ultimate work stand will work fine with my Vado, and also that I can get it onto the stand myself by just lifting one end at a time. I've posted photos that show this, where I can lift the rear up and get the clamp onto the seatpost, then rotate the bike and tighten down the rotation clutch to keep the front end from rotating back down. From there I can lift the bike on the stand as usual to get it at a reasonable height.

The only problem with the Ultimate is that the clutch lockdown is just a circular knob and it's tough to tighten it enough by hand to hold the weight. It's also a good thing to do this without the battery, since it not only makes the bike a bit lighter, but the battery is all weight ahead of the clamp point and would make it even harder to get it to hold. I think that newer stands have more of a lever that you can grab onto.

And by the way, how do those of you using the top tube method clamp onto it? That's a tapered cross section and my clamp is definitely made to work only with round or at least straight-sided tubing. I'd definitely not try to use it on my Vado.

Disclaimer: My garage floor is not normally this dirty, but it gets messy during the winter and it hasn't been warm enough for spring cleaning yet! ;)
DID YOU DO A REVIEW on The VADO 4 ??? I am curious if you wish you had the 5 ?? I honest don't see for the average rider a need for the % vs Having The 4 : Appreciate
I found both that my old Ultimate work stand will work fine with my Vado, and also that I can get it onto the stand myself by just lifting one end at a time. I've posted photos that show this, where I can lift the rear up and get the clamp onto the seatpost, then rotate the bike and tighten down the rotation clutch to keep the front end from rotating back down. From there I can lift the bike on the stand as usual to get it at a reasonable height.

The only problem with the Ultimate is that the clutch lockdown is just a circular knob and it's tough to tighten it enough by hand to hold the weight. It's also a good thing to do this without the battery, since it not only makes the bike a bit lighter, but the battery is all weight ahead of the clamp point and would make it even harder to get it to hold. I think that newer stands have more of a lever that you can grab onto.

And by the way, how do those of you using the top tube method clamp onto it? That's a tapered cross section and my clamp is definitely made to work only with round or at least straight-sided tubing. I'd definitely not try to use it on my Vado.

Disclaimer: My garage floor is not normally this dirty, but it gets messy during the winter and it hasn't been warm enough for spring cleaning yet! ;)
I bought an Inexpensive Seat Post : Took a 6 Inch piece of 2x4 and drilled a Slightly smaller Hole in it : Slid the Wood onto the Seat post and that leaves 2 hands to just throw up the Bike. If just oiling chain parts I don't need to clamp it : If I do clamp it My Park Tool rotates

Granted You have to remove the Seat : If you get a Suspension Post You won't want to clamp on it any way : Clamping the down Tube is always possible : It's definitely harder doing it that way because you are always limited to one hand. Unless you have the Park tool clamp Meant for Top rails or Down Tubes as you said
 
The Park Tool PRS-25 in my practice 😊 Vado --even without the battery -- is a heavy bike but everything is doable. Thanks to all who made me want that stand!

View attachment 48719
In near future, I will take the wheels off, replace inner tubes and wash the Vado thoroughly!

View attachment 48720
The bike can be rotated!
Someone on this post recommended to use a stool, place the front wheel on it and raise the rear. With the bike leaning on its front wheel (the lighter part which is easy to lift) you don’t need to raise the bike in the air with one hand and clamp with the other. I use Park Tool handle bar holder HBH-2 to keep the handlebar from wiggling while I do this (makes it easier). A bungee cord will do this also.
I don’t have to remove the battery as this method makes the lifting process very efficient (don’t like to take the battery off and on often if I don’t need to do so. Concern about connectors. Might be unjustified concern).
I tried it with a wooden stool that I already have and use it to sit on and work on the bike (18” heigh). This works well. After clamping I remove the stool.
Credit goes to @rochrunner who recommended this approach.
 

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Has anyone tried the Feedback Sports Pro Elite Repair Stand? Or the newer park tool stand like the pcs 10.2?
I own the PCS 10. I don't have personal experience with the 10.2, but posted on the difference here.

A lot of others posted experiences with stands there. Many years and a lot of posts here about stands. Feedback Sports and Park Tool make good stands. Good hunting!
 
Has anyone tried the Feedback Sports Pro Elite Repair Stand? Or the newer park tool stand like the pcs 10.2?
I have the 10.2 and the and the 9. something. I like the 10.2 better overall the clamp is nicer with the quick release. and easier to operate. I changed around the quick releases as the bottom one would be super tight till you closed it all the way then it loosened up. but I found unless you ahd the clamp on the bottom super tight then the stand may slowly collapse after a few hours with a 52 pound bike in it.
 
Has anyone tried the Feedback Sports Pro Elite Repair Stand? Or the newer park tool stand like the pcs 10.2?

I have a Pro Elite stand that I have had for about ten years. The Pro Elite easily folds up and is light and steady work stand. About the time I got a Turbo S, I switched first to a Park wall mount and now an efficientvelo (evt) adjustable height wall mount clamp. This was mostly due to not needing a portable work area and the wall mount taking up less space than the legs of the portable stand.
 
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