Wobbly rear wheel

Additional context with my experience. I was tired from long work day yesterday. 😑

When I did my truing, I did not follow fully recommended steps, of removing the tires. I removed the quick release, left the tires on, and did not deflate the tires. Call it laziness, but I wanted to see how easy it is to true it on the fly and the end result was good enough for me. As mentioned above, the process was surprisingly easy for lateral adjustments and the radial adjustment. After going through the process, I can see how the no stand work around methods can work since the concept is the same. However, I think the convenience and added accuracy more than makes up for the cost of the truing stand.

For any of you planning on trying it yourself, The following video was my guide.

My tension meter arrives today, so I'll try that later tonight. Planning on using the following video as a guide.
You should check spoke tension with the stress from the inflated tire removed, i.e. deflate the tires first. Otherwise you won't get true readings, esp since you trued the wheel with pressurized tires.

Did you add spoke prep to the spoke nipples? I use linseed oil, but same effect; it keeps the nipples from loosening with vibration, i.e. riding the bike.
 
You should check spoke tension with the stress from the inflated tire removed, i.e. deflate the tires first. Otherwise you won't get true readings, esp since you trued the wheel with pressurized tires.

Did you add spoke prep to the spoke nipples? I use linseed oil, but same effect; it keeps the nipples from loosening with vibration, i.e. riding the bike.
It was really a quick and dirty method to get the overall feel for the process and get the wheel to good enough to ride true state. 😅

I’m not sure I want to remove the tires to do the tensioning. I’ll probably do another quick and dirty tensioning and ride a bit to see how it holds up. If things go bad quick, I’ll probably do it properly with the tires removed and do the trueing and tensioning.🤨
 
My MD1000 rear tire developed loose spokes on about the third ride after hill climbing and going through cobbles on a couple of dry stream crossings. It wobbled so bad on the way home the rear end of the bike swayed or fishtailed as you described. I turned it over at home and tightened the loosened spokes but the rim was not true. Since it was a fat tire wheel and the spokes are so far off set on the rim I did not want to attempt the truing. I sent it in to a bike shop in Redding and they had it trued in 4 days for $15. They did note that they will not work on ebikes they dont sell but I talked them into working on the wheel off the bike and because it was not a hub drive they did it.
 
My MD1000 rear tire developed loose spokes on about the third ride after hill climbing and going through cobbles on a couple of dry stream crossings. It wobbled so bad on the way home the rear end of the bike swayed or fishtailed as you described. I turned it over at home and tightened the loosened spokes but the rim was not true. Since it was a fat tire wheel and the spokes are so far off set on the rim I did not want to attempt the truing. I sent it in to a bike shop in Redding and they had it trued in 4 days for $15. They did note that they will not work on ebikes they dont sell but I talked them into working on the wheel off the bike and because it was not a hub drive they did it.
Drip some linseed oil into each nipple to help prevent future loosening. Just sayin'.
 
Chinese hubs are known to go thru a break in period and loosen spokes. A frequent check item 'till they are done wearing in. If they get loose and you don't catch them, spokes can break, rim get out of true. Keep even tension on them - after every couple of rides.
 
Good advice. I will be keeping an eye on them. The front tire stayed tight but the rear loosened up. When I did tighten the spokes there was resistance in tightening so it does not appear they are loosening by backing out the threads but likely seating in the rim or hub.
 
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