Will 700x47c Pathfinder Pro 2Bliss Ready tyres fit on a Turbo Vado SL 5?

[Jeremy McCreary]

The tyre size is not everything. Vado SL 5.0 has the Future Shock suspension stem, which reportedly does miracles to the ride comfort. @Jeremy McCreary rides his 5.0 SL tubeless on Pathfinders Pro 38 mm, and he could certainly chime in.

I've had my SL all of 4 weeks, and it's had tubeless Pathfinder Pros all of 3 weeks. Not much of a track record yet, but I'm already a big fan of these tires.

Compared to the stock Nimbus 2 city tires, huge improvent in ride comfort, excellent grip offroad, and noticeably lower rolling resistance on pavement — all this at 38 mm and 36 psi. No need for a suspension seat post now. Remarkably, they even did well in a brief trial on damp low-tide beach sand!

View attachment 183697
Poland is a sandy country. Even a decent gravel road gets sandy during drougt.

Same here in mostly dry coastal SoCal. There's a sandy veneer of variable depth on every unpaved surface — usually just a millimeter or less, but it's usually loose, and deeper pockets appear without warning. Makes steep sections pretty scary, sometimes even on foot.

So far, the Pathfinders are doing fine on the thin coatings.

During wind events, any beach-adjacent pavement gets blowing sand. Above is the Coast Highway at South Ponto Beach as a big winter storm blew in off the Pacific. The rain came later. The hub-drive's 2.3" hybrid tires had no trouble riding through here, but my poor eyes and nose were full of sand.

 

[mogulman]

I'm using Tufo Thundero gravel tires (700x44). on my Turbo Vado SL 5.0 (non-eq). No issues at all. Plenty of clearance riding on rocky Colorado roads.

I noticed the new SL2 uses 47mm tires.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I noticed the new SL2 uses 47mm tires.

Definitely a different frame!

 

[RRCV]

Stefan, do you think there may be a suspension/ride cushioning type advantage/benefit with the slightly wider 42mm Pathfinders Pro vs the 38mm?

After yesterdays wheel stopping incident, picking up a few sticks and leaves and long grass which all lodged somewhere between the front guard and tyre, I have decided to remove the guards.

SWorks Tracer currently available in 38mm

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Stefan, do you think there may be a suspension/ride cushioning type advantage/benefit with the slightly wider 42mm Pathfinders Pro vs the 38mm?

It's not easy to answer. Bear in mind I rode the 38s tubed for almost three years. The decision to "unequip" my Vado SL was partly dictated by curiosity and partly by the wish to make my Vado SL look "sporty". I had a real urge to go tubeless, and that gave me the chance to try the 42s. Soon, it turned out I actually needed a rear rack (hence a detachable Ortlieb Quick Rack) and mudguards (SKS Speedrockers). If I kept 38s, I could use the Speedrockers now (but I can't use the rear mudguard because the 42 mm is too big!) I had to get rid of the e-bike battery powered tail-light and use an external one!

I guess keeping 38s but going tubeless is the best move one can make. Tubeless allows riding the e-bike at a reduced pressure, and that affects the ride comfort very much, more than 4 mm tyre width increase. Also, 2Bliss tyres are supple and comfortable pe se.

Again, I think removing the front mudguard is a must but keeping the rear mudguard + rear-rack + tail-light assembly is useful and harmless.

 

[RRCV]

Thank you Stefan, priceless

I would prefer to keep the rear rack, guard and light, so 38mm is an easy decision.

S-Works Tracer/Tracer Pro 2Bliss or Pathfinder Pro in 2Bliss?

I opened the Tool Kit that came with the SL this afternoon, found 3 small, colour coded springs. I didn't realise that the Future Shock has no spring installed from factory.

 

[Jeremy McCreary]

I opened the Tool Kit that came with the SL this afternoon, found 3 small, colour coded springs. I didn't realise that the Future Shock has no spring installed from factory.

Hmmm, my kit has 3 springs, too. But my FutureShock 1.5 is definitely springy without them and seems to be doing its job.

Is there a 4th spring inside? Or are these 3 secondary springs to be added if the springy component already inside needs extra help?

 

[Stefan Mikes]

S-Works Tracer/Tracer Pro 2Bliss or Pathfinder Pro in 2Bliss?

Tracer Pro. It is proven on my Vado SL. S-Works is lightweight but more delicate. I think you would be on the safe side with the Tracer Pro as you ride rough terrain. PP is excellent for asphalt and light gravel, fast and silent. Tracers are not silent!

I opened the Tool Kit that came with the SL this afternoon, found 3 small, colour coded springs. I didn't realise that the Future Shock has no spring installed from factory.

The FS has a cartridge with a spring. The extra springs are a helper for heavier people. I suggest watching YT videos on Future Shock, very helpful.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Pathfinder Pro 47 mm on my Vado 6.0 in the rain (now).

 

[Jeremy McCreary]

The FS has a cartridge with a spring. The extra springs are a helper for heavier people. I suggest watching YT videos on Future Shock, very helpful.

Found plenty of YT videos showing how to add/change the helper springs but none on how to know when you need any of them. Nor is there any guidance in the manuals.

Not seeing/feeling a compelling reason to add a helper after 4 weeks with my SL 5.0, but maybe I'm paying attention to the wrong cues.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Found plenty of YT videos showing how to add/change the helper springs but none on how to know when you need any of them. Nor is there any guidance in the manuals.

Not seeing/feeling a compelling reason to add a helper after 4 weeks with my SL 5.0, but maybe I'm paying attention to the wrong cues.

Springs for Future Shock 1.5

https://support.specialized.com/kb/sp_en-us/content/ECV3-4776/Sirrus-Future-Shock

 

[Allan47.7339]

Found plenty of YT videos showing how to add/change the helper springs but none on how to know when you need any of them. Nor is there any guidance in the manuals.

Not seeing/feeling a compelling reason to add a helper after 4 weeks with my SL 5.0, but maybe I'm paying attention to the wrong cues.

It's by feel. If it feels too harsh while riding, the springs are too strong. If it feels too mushy, the springs are to weak. If you don't notice either way, they are just fine.

 

[RRCV]

Hmmm, my kit has 3 springs, too. But my FutureShock 1.5 is definitely springy without them and seems to be doing its job.

Is there a 4th spring inside? Or are these 3 secondary springs to be added if the springy component already inside needs extra help?

G'day Jeremy

My FutureShock was quite springy, I was surprised to find the 3 springs in the kit.

I removed the top from the FutureShock, a hole large enough in which to place one of the 3 springs.

I chose to install the lightest spring, an improvement, in my opinion, better control, not as springy, still comfortable, does not compress as much riding over sharp hits, faster recovery? Better front to rear suspension balance as well, in my opinion.

 

[RRCV]

Tracer Pro. It is proven on my Vado SL. S-Works is lightweight but more delicate. I think you would be on the safe side with the Tracer Pro as you ride rough terrain. PP is excellent for asphalt and light gravel, fast and silent. Tracers are not silent!

G'day Stefan

Once again, thank you for sharing, wonderful help

Tracer Pro description on the Specialized webpage supports your observations.

Given that I intend to remove the front guard, should I consider the 42mm for the front?

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Given that I intend to remove the front guard, should I consider the 42mm for the front?

Of course you can do it. Some MTB riders* do so! Are you going tubeless?
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*) The reason for it is the front tyre would get more traction, and you also can relieve even more pressure from the front tyre.

 

[RRCV]

Yes to tubeless.

I do not yet know how, online videos?

Is there a competent online explanation/how to guide that a forum member can recommend?

 

[Jeremy McCreary]

Yes to tubeless.

I do not yet know how, online videos?

Is there a competent online explanation/how to guide that a forum member can recommend?

I was also a newbie when my new Vado SL went tubeless. So to be sure it got done right, I just let my LBS do it.

Approximate cost before tax, both wheels together: $110 for two 700x38 Pathfinder Pro 2Bliss tires, $70 labor, maybe $24 for sealant and rim tape, and $30 for nice tubeless valves. So about $234 all told, parts and labor.

Putting together a complete tubeless repair kit for the road cost me another $160 or so — including a nice Topeak saddle bag to carry the kit and all other tools.

No charge for expert advice on the repair kit and the lowest safe tire pressures for road and gravel. Plus a free repair lesson.

Love the result, money well spent.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I do not yet know how, online videos?

Leave that to a competent Local Bike Store You can thank me later

The techie will remove the existing tyre and inner tube. Then, he has to expertly apply a rim tape. Then, he installs the tubeless valve (Chris King valves are pure gold value!) After that, the tyre is pulled onto the rim. A shock high pressure is delivered to the wheel from a compressor so it snaps onto the rim. Eventually, a proper dose of sealant (e.g. Stan's) is poured into the wheel from a syringe through the valve with its core removed. The mechanic then makes several turns with the wheel to distribute the sealant inside the wheel, and eventually the wheel is left overnight to assess whether the system is air-tight.

Not a work for an amateur

What you will need to do afterwards:

• Regularly reinflate the wheels
• Once in 3 months in the riding season, replenish the sealant. It is a fairly easy job. (If the bike is not being ridden, replenish the sealant before the riding season).

Usually, a small puncture will re-seal itself, only carry a bike mini-pump with you.
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The repair kit is required for big punctures.
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The tubeless might feel an intimidating thing. If you want to avoid all the hassle, just buy (expensive) inner tubes made of TPU (polyurethane). The experience is similar to riding tubeless, only you would need to replace the (expensive) tubes in the case of puncture. For me, tubeless ensures a great peace of mind... Had no puncture in several months!

 

[Allan47.7339]

Yes to tubeless.

I do not yet know how, online videos?

Is there a competent online explanation/how to guide that a forum member can recommend?

It's not a magic solution and it doesn't work in every flat. It's moving the work you might do by the side of the road changing a tube to at home or at the shop. However, a rider in our group recently mentioned the bike shop found a nail floating inside the tire. There was no corresponding road side incident so she was completely unaware she had had a "flat" and didn't know how long it had been there.

Going tubeless is a journey of learning. If you have convenient access to a local shop that is the way to start. If you do try it yourself don't wear anything you would not consider garden/work clothes and preferably in an area easy to clean. My favorite tool for working on tubeless tires is the Park Tools WH-1 Multi-Position Wheel Holder.

Scroll to the third picture in the blog:

How to set up tubeless tires

Tubeless tires have eliminated the risk of pinch flats. For riding in really rough terrain, they are a game changer. But like all new technologies, it's taken some trial-and-error until we figured out how to run bicycle tires tubeless. Of course, tubeless tires are nothing…

www.renehersecycles.com

 

[mschwett]

It's not a magic solution and it doesn't work in every flat. It's moving the work you might do by the side of the road changing a tube to at home or at the shop. ...

i don't really agree with that. i do agree with the not-magic part

the vast majority of small urban flats simply are not even noticed with tubeless. little nicks and bits of wire or glass just seal up right away, and there is no work moved to home or the shop, there's just one less ride ruined by sitting on the side of the road cursing at a tire lever, frame pump, patch, etc. every once in a while (frequency varies by conditions!) you get one that requires 30 seconds to jam the plug tool in, and sometimes another 60 seconds to add more sealant. i can't remember for sure but i believe in ±15,000 tubeless miles (GP5000) i've had one flat that required a plug and air during the ride, a couple that required a plug and pumping up after the ride (holds 30-40psi but not full pressure until plugged) and probably around 1.5 million little nicks or cuts or bits of glass that would have required a road-side repair with tubes but required nothing at all be done with tubeless.