Why are Brooks Saddles known for comfort?

[steve mercier]

Steve, have you tried tilting the tip of the saddle slightly down(it can make a significant difference)?

I sold it 6 months ago. I loved the look of my black B17 but that was all. I am satisfied with the Bontrager Boulevard and the Selle Royale Respiro that I use now. I can ride either one all day or well over 100 km with no pain.

 

[GypsyTreker]

If you have enough experience with a baseball glove you'll know what to do with it, preparation wise.

Never thought about it that way, but so true. I spent hours "curing" my Rawlings glove, as a kid.

 

[Yamahonian]

You an't go wrong with either. I have both but I like the B17.
For some reason the Imperial was harder to break-in but eventually, it worked out great.

Very Interesting, thanks -

Once you broke in your regular B17, did you find that it shaped itself to your anatomical structure in a way that would make the cutout on the B17 Imperial redundant?

I generally prefer saddles with a central cutout, however, it seems that the cutout on the B17 Imperial leaves less leather to mold itself to your structure.

I am not sure if the regular B17 will ultimately mold itself fully to my structure, and there is thus no point to the cutout on the Imperial.

Thoughts?

 

[Jaxx]

Very Interesting, thanks -

Once you broke in your regular B17, did you find that it shaped itself to your anatomical structure in a way that would make the cutout on the B17 Imperial redundant?

I generally prefer saddles with a central cutout, however, it seems that the cutout on the B17 Imperial leaves less leather to mold itself to your structure.

I am not sure if the regular B17 will ultimately mold itself fully to my structure, and there is thus no point to the cutout on the Imperial.

Thoughts?

Standard B17 will shape itself for a bespoke fit. Just remember every year a so, to give it a very small tension adjustment. My B17 is now in its 15th year and has turned a lovely chestnut Brown in colour.

 

[Marcela]

Never thought about it that way, but so true. I spent hours "curing" my Rawlings glove, as a kid.

Yeah, I have 3-4 Brooks saddles out there, the small packet of lube they send was never enough for me. In the end I prefer the leather saddle with cutout on a thudbuster, that gives me a better ride than the saddle on springs. And one real good lube of 100% neatsfoot on the underside, not too floppy and not too stiff ( ball glove).

For those not familiar with neatsfoot oil, google, don't gargle. Probably what Brooks sends out, theirs might be a blend or synthetic though as it doesn't have the familiar smell like neatsfoot oil.

 

[Yamahonian]

Alright so I got the B17 special and it showed up today. I put a thorough coating of proofide on the underside, used a micro brush to get every nook and cranny. I put a light layer on the top. I will leave that sitting for 24 hours then wipe off the top, but leave the underside as is.

Anything else I should do to help it break in?

Also, what is that tension screw thing for, and when do I adjust it?

 

[Deleted member 18083]

Anything else I should do to help it break in?

Ride it a very great deal until it moulds to your shape!

 

[Jaxx]

Alright so I got the B17 special and it showed up today. I put a thorough coating of proofide on the underside, used a micro brush to get every nook and cranny. I put a light layer on the top. I will leave that sitting for 24 hours then wipe off the top, but leave the underside as is.

Anything else I should do to help it break in?

Also, what is that tension screw thing for, and when do I adjust it?

Only use the tension adjust very sparingly. If at all? If you feel it start to sag too much? A quarter turn occasionally will do the job.

 

[GypsyTreker]

My Brooks seats (B-17's and now Flyer) never required a tension setting. The oil and my butt were all that was ever needed to break it in. Even though my new Flyer is not totally broken in, it's still comfortable. If your seat does not work out it simply means your not cut out for the elite "leather butt" squadron and will have to find another subset. God knows there's enough of them out there lol.

 

[Jaxx]

Alright so I got the B17 special and it showed up today. I put a thorough coating of proofide on the underside, used a micro brush to get every nook and cranny. I put a light layer on the top. I will leave that sitting for 24 hours then wipe off the top, but leave the underside as is.

Anything else I should do to help it break in?

Also, what is that tension screw thing for, and when do I adjust it?

Yama, this B17 has done 3000 miles. Hope pics show, how the rear has slightly flattened with two small indents? The saddle is now very comfortable. Never been tensioned. If it "gives" a little more then? I will give the tension a slight tweak. 1 quarter turn of the adjuster.

 

[steve mercier]

Ride it a very great deal until it moulds to your shape!

...or until you give up on the masochism. (-:

 

[Marcela]

Schweaty ass helps.

 

[CCroft]

Any of you Brooks riders use/hear of speeding the break-in process by soaking the saddle in warm water for 5 minutes or so and then riding until dry? Here's the typical approach; this guy's method is a bit more involved.

This was a popular way of breaking in heavy leather boots during my Boy Scout days many moons ago, but I can find as many opinions against this idea today too (concerns about excessively shrinking the leather). My ebike doesn't get hundreds of miles of month to ease a break-in, so anything to speed that up a bit would be beneficial.

 

[Jaxx]

Any of you Brooks riders use/hear of speeding the break-in process by soaking the saddle in warm water for 5 minutes or so and then riding until dry? Here's the typical approach; this guy's method is a bit more involved.

This was a popular way of breaking in heavy leather boots during my Boy Scout days many moons ago, but I can find as many opinions against this idea today too (concerns about excessively shrinking the leather). My ebike doesn't get hundreds of miles of month to ease a break-in, so anything to speed that up a bit would be beneficial.

Depends what Brooks you have. Most Brooks especially the B17 break in period is not very long. However the Pro is a totally a different proposition. I've got 2 Pro's on the go at the moment. 500 and 290 miles respectively. The 500 miler is just about becoming acceptable for a 2 hour ride. Compare that to the B17's I've owned? They are usually good by 250 miles. Only ever used Proofide on all my Brooks.

 

[CCroft]

Well I've ordered/will be trying their B67 'softened'/'aged' which they claim is 'comfortable from Day 1.' I'm sure there's some trade-off in longevity/durability in the leather used for these 'aged' versions, but realistically my riding/biking is such that I don't need maximum longevity/durability compared to more hardcore riders.

 

[Yamahonian]

Ride report of the B17 special:

40 miles, day 1 of saddle

Must better than expected. I thought this would be hard as a rock, but I didn't really even notice it. It wasn't exactly comfortable, but after the ride my butt was much more comfortable than any foam or gel saddle I have ridden. My butt didn't hurt at all. Hopefully it gets better as it breaks in.

Didn't notice any breaking in of the saddle at all at the end of the ride.

Overall very happy

 

[Jaxx]

Ride report of the B17 special:

40 miles, day 1 of saddle

Must better than expected. I thought this would be hard as a rock, but I didn't really even notice it. It wasn't exactly comfortable, but after the ride my butt was much more comfortable than any foam or gel saddle I have ridden. My butt didn't hurt at all. Hopefully it gets better as it breaks in.

Didn't notice any breaking in of the saddle at all at the end of the ride.

Overall very happy

Saddle will "mould" to you overtime. Don't go mad with Proofide, every 6 months or so, just a small dab. Leave to set overnight then polish up. It will last you years and years andddddd.

 

[CCroft]

A question for you Brooks-riders... My B67 'aged'/'softened' comes with instructions to not apply Proofide to the top like you would the standard Brooks models. I live in a relatively drier climate and I would think that some kind of moisturizing treatment to the top from time to time would be a good idea. Any recommendations? Or will the Proofide applied to the underside be taken up through the leather enough to really not require any 'top' treatment? I believe (?) the leather on these 'aged/softened' models is thinner than standard, so the underneath treatment might work its way through easier than otherwise with these.

 

[Jaxx]

A question for you Brooks-riders... My B67 'aged'/'softened' comes with instructions to not apply Proofide to the top like you would the standard Brooks models. I live in a relatively drier climate and I would think that some kind of moisturizing treatment to the top from time to time would be a good idea. Any recommendations? Or will the Proofide applied to the underside be taken up through the leather enough to really not require any 'top' treatment? I believe (?) the leather on these 'aged/softened' models is thinner than standard, so the underneath treatment might work its way through easier than otherwise with these.

They used to call them Pre-Butchered back in the 60's. I have a Brooks Pro "Aged" the leather thickness is the same as the standard Pro. When I got it, I ignored the same instruction and gave the top a very slight covering of Proofide, and continue to do so once a year. It's still going strong 15 years later.

 

[CCroft]

Hey thanks Jaxx--I appreciate it!