Where should the frame go between those washers and nut?

[Planet Indigo]

Please help!
I've read the manual of my ebike kit, asked a bike guy and my local bike shop, and all three have different opinions on this, and since I want a definite safe answer, I'm asking the forums.
I've attached a picture.
Let's label those guys, from left to right, nut is "1", washer is " 2", sloted funky washer is "3", and we'll call the bike frame " 4".
My ebike instruction manual says 1234.
The local bike shop swore that 1342 was the correct and safest way.
The bike guy I know said 1432 to keep the washers on the inside...
How can I get so many different opinions?!
What's the definite safest way to fasten my ebike wheel?
Please help!

 

[Nova Haibike]

The manufacturer is correct. The funky washer is called an anti-turn or anti-rotation washer; the claw is meant to sit in the dropout and prevent the axle from turning.

 

[AHicks]

I would caution that either 3 or 4 needs to go on the inside of the drop out, and depending on which side #4 ends up, the tab must go toward the slot.

If the axle were installed as per the pic, the axle would be drawn into the drop out as the nut was tightened.

I would also add that #4 is to HELP prevent rotation, and good installations will require the use of a torque arm to give the #4 washer a hand in doing it's job. My thoughts anyway. -Al

 

[indianajo]

Because #3 the tang points in, the hub motor manufacturer expected 1,2,3 to go outside the fork #4.
Unfortunately, my $179 hub motor apparently bound up this way, leaving me stranded and requiring a tow vehicle in the middle of my first ride. I couldn't pedal it at all, too stuck.
On my direct drive hub, the sides of the hub are held out by 1/16" aluminum pans held apart by a rim at 9" diameter. This is not a very strong arrangement to prevent pinching in the middle. There are no thrust bearings pushing out like in a shimano 7 speed axle. My fork apparently rode over the axle fat parts and pinched the hub pans directly.
If your frame fork is steel and will spread out to clear, flip #3 and put on the inside of the forks is my advice. I'm with the bike shop guy. The ledge on the axle will hold the frame apart and keep the fork from pinching the motor plates in.
You have to remove the 6 pin connector body to flip washer #3. Make a drawing and get the colors right when putting back. I pushed in the tangs from the front with a steel pick.
I have an aluminum frame that would not spread under normal force (an aluminum wedge made of box AL window frame material). I couldn't fit #3 inside, it was too fat. So I made two new very thin steel washers with the tight flatted axle pattern. I filed out that weird hole to fit tightly. Then since those new washers wouldn't fit in the fork, I ground down the ledge on the axle 1/32" on each side with a 3"x1/16" grinding wheel. Use safety glasses with power tools.
Then I deleted washer #2 since there weren't enough threads on the axle to clear 6 washers. I used blue locktite on the nut to keep it from backing off.
1000+ miles down, no more problems with the hub locking up.