Wheel Won't Fit in Dropout with Derailleur Attached

[Jo060]

I'm putting together my first Ebike using a Voilamart 1000w kit on a new, cheap Havock 21 speed.

I'm attempting to put the rear wheel on but it won't fit with the way the derailleur is attached. The derailleur is held on by a screw that screws through the frame near the dropout and is held on by a semi-circle type nut (pictured). When the derailleur is attached as it's supposed to be, the wheel will not slide in due to a clearance issue. Even with the derailleur removed, it barely fits.

The new rear casset that came with the kit is the same amount of gears as the original.

Has anyone run in to this before. Any ideas?

 

[kmccune]

Yes, keep juggling You may lose a couple of gears. Some bikes have barely enough room in the dropouts to fit everything.

 

[Jo060]

Yes, keep juggling You may lose a couple of gears. Some bikes have barely enough room in the dropouts to fit everything.

I don't believe there is any wiggle room. I've tried everything I can and it binds up on the back of the bolt but I'll try again.

 

[AHicks]

Another pic that shows how/where the bolt is hitting?

 

[Jo060]

Another pic that shows how/where the bolt is hitting?

I'm away from home but will take additional photos ASAP.

I was looking at it again the other night and the rear axel is much larger than the original wheel. It makes for an extremely tight fit which I think is what caused the previous issue. I believe it's causing the wheel to go in crooked. I'm going to try slightly filing the drop outs.

 

[AHicks]

It's hard to see what's going on here for sure, but usually the flat spots are vertical in the slot.

 

[harryS]

A typical bike dropout is 10,, wide, while an ebike motor axle is 10x12mm. so you slide the thinner side in. The axle will be 2mm too high. This disparity shows up first on the derailleur side, if you use a screw in hanger, First deepen the depth of that slot 1mm. Keep the edges round. There is usually enough depth on the other side to hold the motor. Never try to widen the slot. It should be wide enough for the 10mm side.

If it is a steel frame bike, it's OK to spread the frame a little bit to take the wider motor. I've only had to do this once. Uses a scissors jack to push the chainstays apart. If it is an alloy frame, you cannot force anything if you want to be safe, In that case, see if you have a 6 speed freewheel you can use.

 

[Jo060]

A typical bike dropout is 10,, wide, while an ebike motor axle is 10x12mm. so you slide the thinner side in. The axle will be 2mm too high. This disparity shows up first on the derailleur side, if you use a screw in hanger, First deepen the depth of that slot 1mm. Keep the edges round. There is usually enough depth on the other side to hold the motor. Never try to widen the slot. It should be wide enough for the 10mm side.

If it is a steel frame bike, it's OK to spread the frame a little bit to take the wider motor. I've only had to do this once. Uses a scissors jack to push the chainstays apart. If it is an alloy frame, you cannot force anything if you want to be safe, In that case, see if you have a 6 speed freewheel you can use.

You explained perfectly the issue I was experiencing... Thank you!

I just finished filing down on side and it seems as though it fits in much better. I didn't fully install the rear wheel, but I slid the axle in by sliding it in from the outside.

I tried the above before filing it down and it wouldn't fit. After filing it seems to be good to go.

I'll report back

 

[PedalUma]

@Jo060, I posted your answer on Show Us a Tool, here on EBR.

 

[Jo060]

@Jo060, I posted your answer on Show Us a Tool, here on EBR.

I haven't gone to that section yet so I'm not too certain what it is about, but I'll check it out.

 

[PedalUma]

I haven't gone to that section yet so I'm not too certain what it is about, but I'll check it out.

It is the most recent, at the last page of the thread.

 

[Jo060]

I was able to get the rear wheel in place but only with the derailleur removed. I've attached 2 photos showing the nut wedged against the cassette.

Ignore the lack of spacer(s) this was just testing to see if it would fit.

So at this point it looks like I'll need to spread the frame?

 

[PedalUma]

I was able to get the rear wheel in place but only with the derailleur removed. I've attached 2 photos showing the nut wedged against the cassette.

Ignore the lack of spacer(s) this was just testing to see if it would fit.

So at this point it looks like I'll need to spread the frame?

Yes, you will spread the fame the first attempt at three times the amount you need for clearance. Test the spread and spread a little more the second time if needed. Test again. Be gentle the first time. You are right to mention spacers. They will need to stack inside the free wheel and against the frame, allowing for both clearance and something to tighten the axle nuts down against, so it holds in the dropouts. Here is the build I made that tool for. It was a regular one speed bike. I made it an eight speed coaster brake internal hub with a torque sensing mid-drive. The goal was to make it a clean build. This is a class three bike now. The dropouts were too narrow. I needed to expand by 6mm. That meant stretching to 18mm and letting it spring back to 6. Zoom to see how I removed ugly wires and connectors.

 

[Jo060]

Yes, you will spread the fame the first attempt at three times the amount you need for clearance. The test the spread and spread a little more the second time if needed. Test again. Be gentle the first time. You are right to mention spacers. They will need to stack inside the free wheel and against the frame, allowing for both clearance and something to tighten the axle nuts down against, so it holds in the dropouts. Here is the build I made that tool for. It was a regular one speed bike. I made it an eight speed coaster brake internal hub with a torque sensing mid-drive. The goal was to make it a clean build. This is a class three bike now. The dropouts were too narrow. I needed to expand by 6mm. That meant stretching to 18mm and letting it spring back to 6.

Thanks. I'll give it a try

 

[AHicks]

I was able to get the rear wheel in place but only with the derailleur removed. I've attached 2 photos showing the nut wedged against the cassette.

Ignore the lack of spacer(s) this was just testing to see if it would fit.

So at this point it looks like I'll need to spread the frame?

What is that piece of metal between the gear cluster and the frame? If it's meant to represent where the derailleur fastens, is there a good reason you can't install the derailleur on the other side of the frame?

If that piece is supposed to act as a nut for the bolt holding the derailleur, it's not necessary, as that hole is threaded. No nut on the inside of the frame necessary.

Or maybe I'm just misunderstanding the issue totally.....

 

[Jo060]

What is that piece of metal between the gear cluster and the frame? If it's meant to represent where the derailleur fastens, is there a good reason you can't install the derailleur on the other side of the frame?

If that piece is supposed to act as a nut for the bolt holding the derailleur, it's not necessary, as that hole is threaded. No nut on the inside of the frame necessary.

Or maybe I'm just misunderstanding the issue totally.....

That piece of metal is the nut that holds the screw for the derailleur. The hole is threaded, but the screw that came with the bike is too small... I suppose I can get a bigger one and try that.

 

[PedalUma]

I strongly suspect that the flat side is significant.

 

[Jo060]

I strongly suspect that the flat side is significant.

Are you thinking I should keep the nut for the derailleur and spread the frame?

 

[AHicks]

I think you need to discard that nut, and find the right size and length of screw/bolt to utilize those threads.

 

[Jo060]

I think you need to discard that nut, and find the right size and length of screw/bolt to utilize those threads.

I'll give it a shot.