It does not look like they can handle Specialized 48 V SL batteries though.Powerbutler has developed a 12V universal charging system für ebikes. You could enquire there:
www.powerbutler.de
I've been wondering why there wasn't a 12 volt charger available for my van. Being able to charge my eBikes while driving or overnight without shore power or running the d@#n generator all night is a huge deal to me. Thanks @TS25 .Powerbutler has developed a 12V universal charging system for ebikes. You could enquire there:
www.powerbutler.de
Couldn’t one use the charger that comes with the bike and a 12V to 110V inverter? The charger that came with my Creo has an input amperage of 2.5 amps which would be well within the range of a 1000 watt inverter.I've been wondering why there wasn't a 12 volt charger available for my van. Being able to charge my eBikes while driving or overnight without shore power or running the d@#n generator all night is a huge deal to me. Thanks @TS25 .
Not sure what the size of your van's battery is but it was 12 V/72 Ah = 864 Wh in mine. Taken into account the efficiency of the energy conversion, one might wake up with a flat car's battery if, for instance, a 600 Wh e-bike battery were charged overnight from van's battery only.or overnight
I have a separate AGM deep cycle battery for the "house" electrical stuff, but it's only about 100 amp hours, meaning I can only use about 50 amp hours. When driving the alternator puts out way more power than I can store.Not sure what the size of your van's battery is but it was 12 V/72 Ah = 864 Wh in mine. Taken into account the efficiency of the energy conversion, one might wake up with a flat car's battery if, for instance, a 600 Wh e-bike battery were charged overnight from van's battery only.
I got into a similar situation once. I was camping during summer heat-wave and running a portable fridge from the car's battery. The car's battery was permanently connected to a charger in the camping site. I missed the fact the charger got overheated and it got thermally switched off... At the end of the day I was unable to start the engine!
No doubt you could charge your e-bike battery while driving!I have a separate AGM deep cycle battery for the "house" electrical stuff, but it's only about 100 amp hours, meaning I can only use about 50 amp hours. When driving the alternator puts out way more power than I can store.
Que?Not sure what the size of your van's battery is but it was 12 V/72 Ah = 864 Wh in mine. Taken into account the efficiency of the energy conversion, one might wake up with a flat car's battery if, for instance, a 600 Wh e-bike battery were charged overnight from van's battery only.
What's the approximate 20% loss for ? That's what I expected for converting 12 volt DC to 110 volt AC and then stepping back down to 36 volt DC, but I was hoping to avoid that by going DC to DC direct.Que?
Ah = Wh / V
So your 36V ebike-battery with 600 Wh needs app. 16,7 Ah (600 / 36) for a full load (which won't happen any time at all) + lets say 20% loss if even.
That shouldn't be a problem for a healthy decent car battery if it's recharged the other day by driving. My cars battery at 110 Ah capacity would just laugh about that little consumption for recharging the ebike battery (which is more likely by app. 10 - 12 Ah).
yes, Ah = Wh / V, but if the battery is 60 Ah and 12v, that means it's only 720Wh. 60 = 720/12.Que?
Ah = Wh / V
So your 36V ebike-battery with 600 Wh needs app. 16,7 Ah (600 / 36) for a full load (which won't happen any time at all) + lets say 20% loss if even.
That shouldn't be a problem for a healthy decent car battery if it's recharged the other day by driving. My cars battery at 110 Ah capacity would just laugh about that little consumption for recharging the ebike battery (which is more likely by app. 10 - 12 Ah).
there is always a loss. DC to DC is more like 10% than 20% though.What's the approximate 20% loss for ? That's what I expected for converting 12 volt DC to 110 volt AC and then stepping back down to 36 volt DC, but I was hoping to avoid that by going DC to DC direct.
I am not an EE, electricity is something that I don't have any depth of knowledge about, sorry.
Sure. I expect some loss from the charger itself, but 20 % just seemed like a lot. I am just learning how constrained my battery setup is in my van.there is always a loss. DC to DC is more like 10% than 20% though.
What's the approximate 20% loss for ? That's what I expected for converting 12 volt DC to 110 volt AC and then stepping back down to 36 volt DC, but I was hoping to avoid that by going DC to DC direct.
I am not an EE, electricity is something that I don't have any depth of knowledge about, sorry.
I wrote 20% loss if even because it didn't really matter for my argument, and I was lazy as it was in the middle of night (local time), sorry. I am not an EE, too.there is always a loss. DC to DC is more like 10% than 20% though.
You won't manage to recharge a fully depleted ebike battery due to the fact that it's dead by then.Not enough to reliably charge up a fully depleted big eBike battery, whether DC to DC or DC to AC to DC.
I'm saying all of this because it is how my e-bike vacations look like:
...
5 hotel stays, 6 e-bike trips.
Four hotel stays, five e-bike trips. I wouldn't be able to replenish the car's battery by driving the car anywhere (except of the trip back home).