Upgrading geared hub motor

[Tubbs]

I am just beginning to try and understand all that is needed to go from a MXUS 48V 500 W geared hub motor to a 750 W motor.
I understand the new motor will need to be laced in to rear wheel. What else is needed a new controller, BMS, display ? any advice on which motors to use or avoid?

The Bike is a Electric Bike Company Model R with 26" wheels

 

[Tom@WashDC]

I am just beginning to try and understand all that is needed to go from a MXUS 48V 500 W geared hub motor to a 750 W motor.
I understand the new motor will need to be laced in to rear wheel. What else is needed a new controller, BMS, display ? any advice on which motors to use or avoid?

The Bike is a Electric Bike Company Model R with 26" wheels

You don't need to change to a new motor, and if you change the motor only, you will not see an increase in power. You just need a controller that has a greater nominal amp rating than your current controller. A new controller with a nominal rating of 16+ amps. (16+amps X 48V = 768W) will give you the 750W that you want (increased power). Your "500W" motor can handle that marginal increase with no problem.

Read this article to understand that your "motor rating" is a not a real world measurement.

Futility of Motor Power Ratings

"There's no such thing as a rated watt!" Read here for why we don't advertise a simple power rating for the motors we sell. Also, have a look at our Youtube video where Justin talks about the power to propel bicycles in <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ALde6zhLPs0">"School of Watts"</a>.

ebikes.ca

If you change your motor to a "750W", you are still going to be limited by the amperage limit of the stock controller. If your current controller has a nominal output of 10 amps (500W/48V =10.4amps), the new 750W motor will still only draw 500W.

Make sure the controller is compatible with the display.
The nominal and peak amperage of the controller is usually printed on the controller body.
Your battery BMS is probably OK and rated at 20 amps.

After reviewing the owner's manual, it appears they are using the KT LCD8H display? Easy to just upgrade the KT controller and it should be plug and play if you get the one with the right connectors.

I upgraded my two "750W" Aventon levels with the KT Controllers and LCD8H displays. According to the displays the bikes are now drawing 1000W peak. Same stock motors.

 

[Tubbs]

You don't need to change to a new motor, and if you change the motor only, you will not see an increase in power. You just need a controller that has a greater nominal amp rating than your current controller. A new controller with a nominal rating of 16+ amps. (16+amps X 48V = 768W) will give you the 750W that you want (increased power). Your "500W" motor can handle that marginal increase with no problem.

Read this article to understand that your "motor rating" is a not a real world measurement.

Futility of Motor Power Ratings

"There's no such thing as a rated watt!" Read here for why we don't advertise a simple power rating for the motors we sell. Also, have a look at our Youtube video where Justin talks about the power to propel bicycles in <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ALde6zhLPs0">"School of Watts"</a>.

ebikes.ca

If you change your motor to a "750W", you are still going to be limited by the amperage limit of the stock controller. If your current controller has a nominal output of 10 amps (500W/48V =10.4amps), the new 750W motor will still only draw 500W.

Make sure the controller is compatible with the display.
The nominal and peak amperage of the controller is usually printed on the controller body.
Your battery BMS is probably OK and rated at 20 amps.

After reviewing the owner's manual, it appears they are using the KT LCD8H display? Easy to just upgrade the KT controller and it should be plug and play if you get the one with the right connectors.

View attachment 147050
I upgraded my two "750W" Aventon levels with the KT Controllers and LCD8H displays. According to the displays the bikes are now drawing 1000W peak. Same stock motors.

Thanks for the in depth explanation I do appreciate it. Talked with the manufacturer and according to them it is a 750 W nominal and 1260 W peak motor. I now understand that doesn't mean much. I think I will just stand pat otherwise I will end up going down a rabbit hole.

 

[AHicks]

The controller is generally the culprit in an under performing scenario. It's acting like a bottleneck between the battery and the motor. This may be by design, as in it's purposely under sized to limit performance, or it may be because the manf. got a "good deal" on them and used them for a production run.

Tom's advice above is rock solid in my experience. His results are proof, and match mine exactly.....

Further proof/more reading available researching folks who've installed a Bolton upgrade kit on their RAD products.....

 

[Tom@WashDC]

Tom's advice above is rock solid in my experience. His results are proof, and match mine exactly.....

Why thank you Mr. Hicks. You are a Gentleman and a Scholar!

 

[Tom@WashDC]

Thanks for the in depth explanation I do appreciate it. Talked with the manufacturer and according to them it is a 750 W nominal and 1260 W peak motor. I now understand that doesn't mean much. I think I will just stand pat otherwise I will end up going down a rabbit hole.

I am so far down the "rabbit hole" I will never find my way back.

 

[harryS]

Throw me a rope.