You were right. Those tires have the
proper look. 2.6".
26 size moves the tire back in the stays. Perfect!
As I remember the UC Pro came up to 27 x 2.9"?
Look's like you could fit 3.0" x 26 in there - if it ever strikes your fancy. Any loss in rolling distance can be accommodated with a 52 ring. Price $90, down from $110 when I last priced the 50t Wolftooth.
The Archer is a great idea. Shifts are predictably and can be easily superbly tuned. My problems was throttle housing interference. You're good to go.
Well, so much for waterproofing. The frame's makers drilled/ cut holes in the plate where the tubes are welded - for gas shielding on the back side of the bead. In fact I'd've thought a lot less of the weld's integrity if they hadn't.
But any water into the seat, top and/ or down tubes funnels directly into the motor.
BTW. The hole (large enough to stick my finger into) in my first DP-6 battery case's end (shipping damaged), I can see dead-ended wires with silicone smeared on the ends, and
bright wire showing through.
Do you have these internal wiring ports on right side of the downtube?
Those wires (your photo) w/ outer sheath stripped, maybe front lighting taking up one of the down-tube's two cable ports.
That's my plan, An internal 1T4 cable.
5 (display)
4 (brakes) and may be doubled up into 2 wires.
3 (throttle)
12 wires to solder and insulate on this
$14 UART cable's plug.
Some may say 'remove and reinstall the pins', but while that's never worked for me, soldering has every time.
This - my third ebike wire loom - will be easy compared to the other hub motors where I switched all connections from rst to Bafang.
The fly in the ointment is this requires a precision stripper. I use a Swedish, GreenLee 45000, get it perfect w/ some scrap wire, where I'm not pulling any strands loose. Then, wet out the ends and solder side by side,
not pigtailed.
I also remember a thread that went into drilling the Kinekt's post for saddle mounted tail-lighting wires.
Where's the excess weight?
Quality lighting w/ F & R Lights, wiring and controls, Probably adds 2lbs.
Steel saddle rails are heavy - lose 40% w titanium rails - >150grams, about 5 1/2 ounces.
That horn weights a lot. Loved it, but it's why I dumped it. 1lb? 2lb's?
Easy for me, since all I wanted was the alarm and the F 110 has a plastic housing/ clamp (yes!!!). It weighs 1/4 as much, w/ a BT remote control key fob.
A small company, they keep making unique advances in their products which in and of themselves are rather unique. So far the F-110 is a Five Star product.
Things like those Steel Hose-Clamps (stock on our fork to front fender stays). Heavy - and no matter what you do gonna scratch your fork they make any contact. >100gms excess.
SKS plastic clamps 20gms .. but their stay-clips are crummy. Portland Design Works has proper clips.
Steel fender stays weigh a lot. I'm glad I lopped 6" of the rear fender and eliminated one stay. No drawbacks at all.
Every Steel nut, bolt, clamp and washer weighs roughly 40% more than equivalent strength titanium fasteners.
From Ring Gear bolts to Brake Discs and the Stem Cap bolt, battery slide and accessory mounts -
when 30gms bolts become 18gms it adds up.
@ 64lbs a cubic foot, a 24oz bottle (full) is 2 pounds, a gram per milliliter.
Your bike could easily weigh < 63lbs. Easily.
My
weight-weenieism has nada to do w/ tradition or being cool. It's just somewhere after age 70
things started feeling heavier, so naturally I sought out any cult that supported
it wasn't me, went along and and they brainwashed me. A wise-guy existentialist philosopher I read some time back called it 'the spirit of gravity'. (Good analogy Fredrich). Typically, I reverted to lifting weights and using lighter stuff.
I like the stock
DPC 18 (as sold at this link) display and esp that new one w/ USB would be nice for my phone as GPS vs carrying batteries/ charger ... but I'm a bit confused. Which model? 0-5 or 0-9. What did you buy?
WW's in general have had problems with this display - actually the mount.
Early adopters like BarnBoy - kinda - documented this. After blowing one out, I obtained a universal shim kit and skipped the angst. Amazon I recollect. No more problems. You may need one.
My take is any part or the entire PRC market could fail. Having a spare is an excellent idea.
Certainly (full of bugs and) highly customizable, this will be my 'Winter (LOL, in San Diego, 'Winter?' LOL) Project'. Well, it does get in the 50's?
Change chain, ring, cassette and (dammit) gear lube.
Glad for that Park Stand to flip the bike. Up side down's the way to go.
I still think we got off light. The PRC ti frames now don't even have the bottom gusset.
Pushkar may fail in his creative visualizations, but he won't pass on inferior junk.
Your UC will be improved and awesome.
Can't wait for your riding impressions - esp the lube vis a vis sound effects after 3 - 400 miles.
Facing this maintenance scenario, I appreciate the knowledge even more.
Thanks
Fn'F
