Turn Your Bike Into an Electric Bike

[tomjasz]

My battery is packed with LG cells.

View attachment 41009

LG makes a range of batteries. Many are designed as stand alone batteries or laptop packs. All LG batteries are not great for eBike packs.
These are typically not used as eBike cells, which explains the low price. As long as you're drawing lower amps it will be OK. But anything more than 20A despite their claimed 10A rating may be a strain. But if you're happy...perhaps thats all that matters. Actually the lowly 26F is perhaps a better choice. As always YMMV.

"This battery is neither high capacity or high current, both parameters are more moderate and with a end voltage of 2.75V it looks like it is an older chemistry.
The quality looks good and if the price is right and the application do not require top capacity or power.

"This is a very good cell for a standard 2600mAh cell.
Remember that the cell is unprotected this means it will have higher voltage at "high" load than protected batteries.

 

[Browneye]

The ONLY reason I ordered a battery with my kit was their claim they were using Samsung or panasonic batteries - I forget which, and whatever that means.
So far so good though - she lets that hub run the whole way and it holds up well. Will be interesting to see what kind of extended mileage we get and whether it charges all the way back up.

We've already noticed it will drop a bar when the motor is running, then will bounce back up when you stop - isn't that voltage 'sag'? It's bad, right?

 

[tomjasz]

The ONLY reason I ordered a battery with my kit was their claim they were using Samsung or panasonic batteries - I forget which, and whatever that means.
So far so good though - she lets that hub run the whole way and it holds up well. Will be interesting to see what kind of extended mileage we get and whether it charges all the way back up.

We've already noticed it will drop a bar when the motor is running, then will bounce back up when you stop - isn't that voltage 'sag'? It's bad, right?

Sag is something you’ll see in an old battery. You bought a premium build from EM3ev. Best to take some posts with a grain of salt. Those “bars” built into batteries a cheap “indicators”. Nothing more. A multimeter or decent wattmeter will provide the best and most useful information. Your EM3ev battery is one of three excellent cells. Go ride and smile and don’t stress over the details. I have two of Paul’s batteries that just finished their 5th season. I expect one more. Consider not charging it “all the way back up.” These battery threads are often bloated with sketchy opinions and elusive facts. You made a great choice. Go for a ride! Enjoy!

 

[stanmiller]

LG makes a range of batteries. Many are designed as stand alone batteries or laptop packs. All LG batteries are not great for eBike packs.
These are typically not used as eBike cells, which explains the low price. As long as you're drawing lower amps it will be OK. But anything more than 20A despite their claimed 10A rating may be a strain. But if you're happy...perhaps thats all that matters. Actually the lowly 26F is perhaps a better choice. As always YMMV.
View attachment 41012

This graph confirms the value of the Joyisi battery. You get value, name brand LG cells without paying the premium for energy you may not need (See also: SSD/CPU/RAM/Hellcat/93 octane).

Here's my new class 3 grocery getter powered by the same 2000 mile Joyisi I swap between the Townie..

 

[tomjasz]

This graph confirms the value of the Joyisi battery. You get value, name brand, LG cells without paying the premium for energy you may not need

As long as you're happy. Another fellow I know uses them. I remain unimpressed, especially for class 3 power. But as always it's what works for you! I predict some serious depletion sooner than cells with better output. Then again, I'm new at this.

BTW SWEET SWEET BIKE!

YIKES!!!

 

[stanmiller]

YIKES!!!

Yep. Game changer.

 

[tomjasz]

Will you do as many mongoose owners have done and change out brakes? 28MPH with Mongoose mechanicals? I road a BBSHD on a Mongoose frame and the stopping distance and panic stops were not comfortable for me. Cool thing is the ease of refitting. I can't find anything wrong with their frames. Just their components, mainly the brakes spook me. Then again, I've toned all my bikes down to class 2. But feel like class 1 is the appropriate brake level. Thoughts?

 

[stanmiller]

Will you do as many mongoose owners have done and change out brakes? 28MPH with Mongoose mechanicals?

Yes indeed! The brakes are a bit sketchy. I think Mongoose counts on enthusiasts to buy their base bikes and upgrade.

 

[Browneye]

I don’t know where Greenergy gets their packs - for all I know Bluenergy or EM3e.

Would be a bummer if it failed.

Dealer said the Giant battery has a 5 year warranty!
Has a 3ah charger too.

The BESV I tested has a 21ah battery. That dealer has a battery rebuilder locally.

 

[stanmiller]

I don’t know where Greenergy gets their packs - for all I know Bluenergy or EM3e.

I'd bet Greenergia sources their cells from Bluenergy (aka Greenergy at Aliexpress). Your wife's bike rim in the picture earlier has a Bluenergy and a Greenergy decal.

 

[Browneye]

Yup. They just got their own decals! Lol

She walked away from me on the bike path - mine starts to shut down at 19mph. I tried the crank-sensor hack and that’s a real eye-opener! Oh my.

 

[tomjasz]

EM3e

Um, EM3ev are very different builds from the run of the mill Chinese. If you have a battery from them I believe it would have come directly and be ordered from Paul.

 

[Browneye]

The new single speed crank set came, installed easily, stripped the old front derailleur and shifter and it really cleaned up the ebike install. Having the right tools is the 'e-ticket'. LOL
The old 3-ring crank had 28, 38, and 48 teeth - she only ever used the middle ring. This new one is 42 and is perfect for 15-20mph. The rear cassette is just slightly different from the original, which had a large first-gear ring, the new one doesn't. But it's fine for any low speed chugging or climbing she would do with this bike. You can see the PAS sensor wheel now behind the chain ring. This is a 'sunlite' which is probly a cheap knock-off of something else, was $50 on amazon, but looks and works just fine. Very happy with this update.

About fifty miles on this thing now and she's thrilled. It really rides nice. She only uses the crank sensor, but I think she may come around to the throttle over time.

I got what was likely the last Shimano 7spd trigger-shifter in the US from a bike shop on ebay, only to have it destroyed in the US mail. So ordered one through AliExpress, coming via 'china post'. Ew boy.
I don't know why there would be a shortage of these things, unless they're just not used on bikes anymore. My LBS said they thought they would get some in soon. This will let me install the e-kit brake lever and reposition the thumb shifter closer to the grip - she has complained it's too far away - the throttle ring is about5/8th's wide and the trigger shifter knob would hit it blocking the shift, so I had to move it even further away. I saw some nice looking thin rings for thumb throttle on Em3ev that I may look at. For now the magnet sensor thingy works fine on the stock shifter/brake combo unit on the right grip.

I also took off the goofy handlebars the ROLL-Step comes with and put a 2" riser conventional bar on it. Works and looks SO much better.

 

[oojoe]

Converting Your Bike into an E-Bike.

If you enjoy riding your bike on a fairly consistent basis you've most likely learned about electric bikes or pedal-assist bikes. It's no secret that e-bikes are becoming more prevalent for commuting, running errands, and just getting around faster on two wheels. If you already have your own bike, converting it might be a cost-efficient option to spending a lot of money on a pre-built one. With the right conversion kit, you'll be ready to turn your regular bike into an electric one and save money.

Deciding How to Convert it

This process is simple once you identify what to look for. You go through the same process when buying a regular bike.

What sort of lifestyle needs do you have? Are you commuting to work in the city on level pavement or do you want to go off-road and down long, hilly paths? For many people, making an educated decision can involve a lot of research regarding different kits and their functions. Some conversion kits will come with a wheel and parts to go on your bike and can be as simple as changing a flat. Some kits can go up to $2000 and some are less than $200. Factors to consider are the assembly of the kit, level of customer support, quality of the kit, the complexity of the connections, warranty, replacement parts, etc.

Types of Bike Conversion Kits

There are many different kits available, from motors that fit into a wheel hub that are small and soundless, to larger and more powerful kits. This post will discuss the more popular kits: front, wheel, and mid-drive.


Front Wheel Electric Bike Conversion Kits

View attachment 24694

Electric Bike Outfitters Clydesdale 2.0 Kit Review

When picking a front hub motor or a rear hub motor there are several factors to look at to ensure you get the proper kit. The major difference is weight. You want to make sure that weight is distributed uniformly, from front to rear. Most batteries are mounted in the middle or back of the bike, so a front hub motor could equalize the weight distribution. A front motor might make the front wheel heavier and harder to steer, but the rear-mounted motor will need to fit with your derailleurs. The front motor is mounted in the center of the front wheel, making it very easy and simple to install. It's recommended to install a torque arm to handle torque since there isn't a lot of traction on the front wheel and a powerful motor would spin out the front tire.

A front motor essentially pulls you while a rear motor feels like you're getting push assistance.

Pros

• Easy to install, perfect for beginners (no rear derailleur adjustments, chains, etc.)
• Changing out flats are easier
• Keeps the motor system separated from rest of bike
• Weight distribution is balanced whether the battery is centered or rear placed, making it easier to pick up
• All-wheel drive because you power the rear wheel by pedaling
• Compatible with internally geared hubs

Cons

• Front end is heavier, reducing option of front forks (aluminum vs steel)
• More pressure on front fork, which may not be suitable for aluminum forks and may bend or even break the drop-outs
• Must consider the distance between dropouts
• Could be harder to lift up to a curb
• Nor as much traction as with rear motor, the front tire might spin out especially on loose pavement or steep incline
• Some people are not used to the "pulling" feel

Because installation and maintenance are so simple, this might be the best option for everyday commuters, especially riders who don't go off-road or on trails very often. If you want a simple, safe, reliable ride this seems like a great option. This option is wonderful on paved roads, and changing a flat is super easy.

Rear Wheel Electric Bike Conversion Kits

View attachment 24695

Superpedestrian Copenhagen Wheel Review

If you want a powerful motor, over 500W for example, a rear hub motor is a great option. The more powerful the motor, it's very likely that it will be heavy, over 20 pounds. Many riders find the rear hub motor to be a better option, with better handling, weight distribution, traction, grip, etc. Because the front wheel remains light, you don't need to worry about the type of front fork and since all your weight is on the motor in the rear, you will get better traction in any condition.

Rear motor hubs feel like you're being pushed, which most riders are already used to. You also have a greater option with more powerful motors.

Pros

• Great balance and traction, including wet or off-road conditions
• Because the weight distribution is in the rear there are fewer spin-outs on loose pavement or dirt
• Can use more powerful motors than with front wheel
• The hub motor blends in with the gears, so it doesn't stand out
• Smoother acceleration
• Wider range of motor power options, can handle high torque

Cons

• Not as easy to install, need to work around gear system (chains, derailleur, etc.)
• Universal torch arm highly suggested
• Depending on battery placement, may cause weight distribution problems to rear, making it hard to carry or may affect handling
• May be prone to unexpected wheelies during acceleration
• Limited to 7-speed freewheel
• Derailleur gears are only option, not internal hub gears
• Rear wheel and spokes under more pressure
• More powerful motors require larger spokes

This type of conversion kit is typically better suited for off-roading or hilly cyclists who don't mind a little bit more maintenance. Additionally, this might be a better kit for more experienced bikers.


Mid-Drive Electric Bike Conversion Kits

View attachment 24696

Electric Bike Outfitters Mountaineer Mid Drive Kit Review

If you live in an area that requires being able to climb long and steep hills, this conversion kit is a good option. A mid-drive motor powers through the drivetrain of the bike.

Pros

• Weight distribution is low and centered
• Easy to change a tire
• Climbing hills are easier because of gearing
• Better steering and handling
• Doesn't affect spokes as a hub motor on the wheel does
• Can cruise at high speeds on level terrain
• Easy to lift
• Removing any wheel is easy because no motor components to remove
• Some systems compatible with internally geared hubs

Cons

• More wear and tear on drivetrain components (cogs, derailleur, etc.)
• Need to know how to shift gears climbing up hills, good for expert bike riders
• Can be more expensive than hub motor
• Kits are more complex to install than hub motors
• May be louder and not as stealthy

This option is great for experienced bike riders, especially those who need to climb some serious hills. This may not be the fastest or quietest option, however.

There's a lot of great information on our forum regarding these different types of motors for more research options.

so after looking over the post ..I thought I would share my mongoose mag wheel mid drive,,,
I wanted the mag wheels ..the frame is smaller than I would like ..anyway cheep build
bike 200 walmart, motor $450 fleebay, battery packs around 180 ebay,,,
I ordered 2 they sent me 10 ..so ..I now have 15 bottle batteries..to use between 6 bikes....

 

[oojoe]

so after looking over the post ..I thought I would share my mongoose mag wheel mid drive,,,
I wanted the mag wheels ..the frame is smaller than I would like ..anyway cheep build
bike 200 walmart, motor $450 fleebay, battery packs around 180 ebay,,,
I ordered 2 they sent me 10 ..so ..I now have 15 bottle batteries..to use between 6 bikes....

So here's a fail ...looks like great idea but I knew it would steer poorly,,,and be on two wheels every once in a while..well it's really not safe and they will be separated soon...
the tandem trike..

 

[Wagonrd]

Converting Your Bike into an E-Bike.

If you enjoy riding your bike on a fairly consistent basis you've most likely learned about electric bikes or pedal-assist bikes. It's no secret that e-bikes are becoming more prevalent for commuting, running errands, and just getting around faster on two wheels. If you already have your own bike, converting it might be a cost-efficient option to spending a lot of money on a pre-built one. With the right conversion kit, you'll be ready to turn your regular bike into an electric one and save money.

Deciding How to Convert it

This process is simple once you identify what to look for. You go through the same process when buying a regular bike.

What sort of lifestyle needs do you have? Are you commuting to work in the city on level pavement or do you want to go off-road and down long, hilly paths? For many people, making an educated decision can involve a lot of research regarding different kits and their functions. Some conversion kits will come with a wheel and parts to go on your bike and can be as simple as changing a flat. Some kits can go up to $2000 and some are less than $200. Factors to consider are the assembly of the kit, level of customer support, quality of the kit, the complexity of the connections, warranty, replacement parts, etc.

Types of Bike Conversion Kits

There are many different kits available, from motors that fit into a wheel hub that are small and soundless, to larger and more powerful kits. This post will discuss the more popular kits: front, wheel, and mid-drive.


Front Wheel Electric Bike Conversion Kits

View attachment 24694

Electric Bike Outfitters Clydesdale 2.0 Kit Review

When picking a front hub motor or a rear hub motor there are several factors to look at to ensure you get the proper kit. The major difference is weight. You want to make sure that weight is distributed uniformly, from front to rear. Most batteries are mounted in the middle or back of the bike, so a front hub motor could equalize the weight distribution. A front motor might make the front wheel heavier and harder to steer, but the rear-mounted motor will need to fit with your derailleurs. The front motor is mounted in the center of the front wheel, making it very easy and simple to install. It's recommended to install a torque arm to handle torque since there isn't a lot of traction on the front wheel and a powerful motor would spin out the front tire.

A front motor essentially pulls you while a rear motor feels like you're getting push assistance.

Pros

• Easy to install, perfect for beginners (no rear derailleur adjustments, chains, etc.)
• Changing out flats are easier
• Keeps the motor system separated from rest of bike
• Weight distribution is balanced whether the battery is centered or rear placed, making it easier to pick up
• All-wheel drive because you power the rear wheel by pedaling
• Compatible with internally geared hubs

Cons

• Front end is heavier, reducing option of front forks (aluminum vs steel)
• More pressure on front fork, which may not be suitable for aluminum forks and may bend or even break the drop-outs
• Must consider the distance between dropouts
• Could be harder to lift up to a curb
• Nor as much traction as with rear motor, the front tire might spin out especially on loose pavement or steep incline
• Some people are not used to the "pulling" feel

Because installation and maintenance are so simple, this might be the best option for everyday commuters, especially riders who don't go off-road or on trails very often. If you want a simple, safe, reliable ride this seems like a great option. This option is wonderful on paved roads, and changing a flat is super easy.

Rear Wheel Electric Bike Conversion Kits

View attachment 24695

Superpedestrian Copenhagen Wheel Review

If you want a powerful motor, over 500W for example, a rear hub motor is a great option. The more powerful the motor, it's very likely that it will be heavy, over 20 pounds. Many riders find the rear hub motor to be a better option, with better handling, weight distribution, traction, grip, etc. Because the front wheel remains light, you don't need to worry about the type of front fork and since all your weight is on the motor in the rear, you will get better traction in any condition.

Rear motor hubs feel like you're being pushed, which most riders are already used to. You also have a greater option with more powerful motors.

Pros

• Great balance and traction, including wet or off-road conditions
• Because the weight distribution is in the rear there are fewer spin-outs on loose pavement or dirt
• Can use more powerful motors than with front wheel
• The hub motor blends in with the gears, so it doesn't stand out
• Smoother acceleration
• Wider range of motor power options, can handle high torque

Cons

• Not as easy to install, need to work around gear system (chains, derailleur, etc.)
• Universal torch arm highly suggested
• Depending on battery placement, may cause weight distribution problems to rear, making it hard to carry or may affect handling
• May be prone to unexpected wheelies during acceleration
• Limited to 7-speed freewheel
• Derailleur gears are only option, not internal hub gears
• Rear wheel and spokes under more pressure
• More powerful motors require larger spokes

This type of conversion kit is typically better suited for off-roading or hilly cyclists who don't mind a little bit more maintenance. Additionally, this might be a better kit for more experienced bikers.


Mid-Drive Electric Bike Conversion Kits

View attachment 24696

Electric Bike Outfitters Mountaineer Mid Drive Kit Review

If you live in an area that requires being able to climb long and steep hills, this conversion kit is a good option. A mid-drive motor powers through the drivetrain of the bike.

Pros

• Weight distribution is low and centered
• Easy to change a tire
• Climbing hills are easier because of gearing
• Better steering and handling
• Doesn't affect spokes as a hub motor on the wheel does
• Can cruise at high speeds on level terrain
• Easy to lift
• Removing any wheel is easy because no motor components to remove
• Some systems compatible with internally geared hubs

Cons

• More wear and tear on drivetrain components (cogs, derailleur, etc.)
• Need to know how to shift gears climbing up hills, good for expert bike riders
• Can be more expensive than hub motor
• Kits are more complex to install than hub motors
• May be louder and not as stealthy

This option is great for experienced bike riders, especially those who need to climb some serious hills. This may not be the fastest or quietest option, however.

There's a lot of great information on our forum regarding these different types of motors for more research options.

I've gone the ebike conversion route with a Bafang BBSHD kit on a Santa Cruz Bullit downhill MTB. It works great on hardpacked dirt roads and trails; but here in the Eastern Sierra there are a lot of roads and trails composed of sections of sand and pumice. It requires a fat tire ebike to traverse these sections. I've therefore ordered a m2s ultra fs fat tire ebike. I have a fat tire pedal only MTB and know that my fat tire ebike will open up new adventures for me.