Tubeless tire experiences

[Mr. Coffee]

Also, I feel compelled to share both of these because I love the spirit of improvisation:

I am debating making part of the ghetto tubeless inflator shown in the first video (really just the soda bottle cap with two presta valves and a bit of tubing) and adding it to my carry -- I can almost always find an empty 2L soda bottle.

 

[DaveMatthews]

Also, I feel compelled to share both of these because I love the spirit of improvisation:

I am debating making part of the ghetto tubeless inflator shown in the first video (really just the soda bottle cap with two presta valves and a bit of tubing) and adding it to my carry -- I can almost always find an empty 2L soda bottle.

That first vid is awesome!

 

[m@Robertson]

why bother with flat out? it's not really designed as a tubeless tire sealant, is it!?!? there are so many choices that were actually designed for the purpose....

In addition to what @fooferdoggie said, it also works better than other tubeless sealants, but it does sound as if tire and tube combos can make a difference. I have never had an issue with it leaking post-install, but I am also using tires with a firm seal on tubeless-ready rims. I've also had it seal some almighty awful holes very quickly (and some normal ones that were thorns or tacks that sealed themselves without me getting off the bike).

Before this, I used Stans, Slime, Orange Seal and Orange Seal Endurance as both tubed and tubeless sealants. None of them worked as well as Flatout.

The only thing it hasn't sealed is some mystery disaster ... thing ... that ended up tearing a 3/4" hole in my tire, right thru a tire belt, thru the Tannus underneath, thru the top of the tube and exited out the other side. Flattened the tire in about 10 feet and blasted out pretty much everything, everywhere in the rim. This was a tube and not tubeless and a hole that size... nothing would have worked.

 

[Avg_Joe]

In addition to what @fooferdoggie said, it also works better than other tubeless sealants, but it does sound as if tire and tube combos can make a difference. I have never had an issue with it leaking post-install, but I am also using tires with a firm seal on tubeless-ready rims. I've also had it seal some almighty awful holes very quickly (and some normal ones that were thorns or tacks that sealed themselves without me getting off the bike).

Before this, I used Stans, Slime, Orange Seal and Orange Seal Endurance as both tubed and tubeless sealants. None of them worked as well as Flatout.

The only thing it hasn't sealed is some mystery disaster ... thing ... that ended up tearing a 3/4" hole in my tire, right thru a tire belt, thru the Tannus underneath, thru the top of the tube and exited out the other side. Flattened the tire in about 10 feet and blasted out pretty much everything, everywhere in the rim. This was a tube and not tubeless and a hole that size... nothing would have worked.

I too am 100% in the FlatOut camp, for both my tubed tires and tubeless. It has not required any extra maintenance, no periodic supplemental injections, no clogged valves. As with all tires, all I need to do is check the inflation pressure once or twice a week, and go riding...

I scored a set of Bontrager Kovee tubeless-ready wheels some months ago. I used Stan's rim tape on the front, and tried that Bontrager plastic rim strip on the rear. The plastic rim strip was effortless to set up! I was able to set both beads with a floor pump, so nothing extra there either.

Having done over 4k mi on 3 different bikes with FlatOut Sportsman formula, I've not had a flat (/knocks on wood); I've not had to do any extra maintenance; I don't even think about it until I see a question on a forum or wherever. I do still carry a tube on my 2 bikes, but have never had to install one since I started w/ FlatOut. The only nit is that sometimes when I remove a valve core from a tube, I do get a little sealant on the core tool.

 

[Deacon Blues]

they actually say 3 to 6 months depending on the sealant. like Stans it has the shortest life and cant handle c02. muc- off can go maybe 6 months and can handle c02.

I've used Stan's for since 2018 and, for the most part, haven been happy with the results, but twice, when I went 5 to 6 months between adding sealant, I got flats because the sealant had dried out.

One negative I've come across while going the tubeless/sealant route is that rim tape can fail over time and once that does the tires goes flat in a hurry, and no amount of air or C02 cartridges will inflate the tire.
This happened to me on both my front and rear tires on my road bike. The rim tape was 5 years old.

 

[Tom@WashDC]

Once you go tubeless, you'll be glad you did, and you probably won't go back.

 

[Mr. Coffee]

My own experiences, so far, is that while some brands of sealant may work better (or worse) than others, the dominant factors in whether tubeless will work well for you is how compatible the tire and rim are with each other and the quality of the rim tape and its installation.

More precisely, you'll never be happy with tubeless if you have poorly installed rim tape. And which tires work with which rims is kind of bewildering. You shouldn't expect to get any tubeless tire to work well with any given tubeless rim.

 

[fooferdoggie]

I have not had any issues with tape but I started with Dt-swiss tape so maybe thats it. I have had issues with valves coming loose though. when they start that it can be hard to get the tire to seal once your tighten them. you have have to take the wheel off and shake it. Now I get them tight then use two nuts so they dont loosen. my cliffhanger rims if you get the valve too tight then it will leave even worse.

 

[fooferdoggie]

When converting to tubeless you must allow the sealant to fully seal all around the bead by bouncing your wheel then install to your bike and give it a spin like spinning the wheel of future. Give it 24 hours to cure then bike is ready to ride.
Also with tubeless setup I have lighten my tool kit by not carrying spare tubes all I need is my multi tool and mini pump, tire plugs small enough to fit in my handle bar.
I have not used it but it's good to have it. In case I have to mend a flat on the trail side. Cool ebike paraphernalia.

actually you want to go on a ride right after you get the tire up and running otherwise the sealant wont constantly replenish any gaps you have.

 

[m@Robertson]

Once you go tubeless, you'll be glad you did, and you probably won't go back.

Its funny you mention that. I may not use tubeless on all bikes, but I have never gone back on one that does. But after thinking long and hard on it, I am at least going to do a test tube install on my BFD. I put on replacement tires for my worn out Snowshoe XLs this weekend. 90mm rims and putting on Snowshoe 2XLs (5.05"). The bike is a monster longtail and its used to carry lots of things, ranging from groceries in an urban environment (not so much anymore) to sand-crawling on a remote beach, to overland wood-hauling thru forest - no trails just riding in the woods.

The reason for going back gets to issues that have been brought up by others above - if a flat goes REALLY bad, a tubeless setup is more difficult to recover from in the middle of nowhere (hence the carrying of a tube).

For light failures/thorns its tubeless all the way no thinking necessary. But for this sort-of edge case of both use and equipment, its not a slam dunk. I still may undo it as with c/f rims and tubeless I've got the lightest wheels possible for 90mm rims and such big tires, and since I'll also put Tannus in I am going totally in the other direction.

 

[m@Robertson]

I had that issue with my biktrix emtb which came with Schrader valve on sunringle wheels.
I over tighten the stem and it leak sealant at max pressure. I had to dismantle the whole thing and replace the o ring with a thicker one.
Presta valves for some reason seals better.

The solution to that, I found, is to pick tubeless valves that have metal lips on the bottom. Stans valves don't have those and if you tighten them too tight, they can pull thru. Had that happen with them myself. I use long Orange Seal valves on my triangular fat rims, or 40mm MBP's on my others, which seem to be of good quality and inexpensive.

Amazon.com

 

[fooferdoggie]

I have muc-off valves. actually the Stans never came loose the muc-offs did.

 

[Deacon Blues]

I've heard good things about the Muc-off valves.

Flat out looks interesting, but I know nothing about it. I'll have to do some research.

 

[Deacon Blues]

With Flat out is it more common to use it with tubes, or to go tubeless? Just thinking about my e-mountain bike. It's set up with tubes and I don't want to go through the hassle of switching over to a tubeless setup (and I'm not even sure if the rims are tubeless compatible).

 

[Mr. Coffee]

The reason for going back gets to issues that have been brought up by others above - if a flat goes REALLY bad, a tubeless setup is more difficult to recover from in the middle of nowhere (hence the carrying of a tube).

Yeah, the Worst Case Scenario is if you have a rip or tear in the tire. In that case you have to:

1. Possibly use Shoe Goo or a sewing kit to close the rip
2. Install a tire boot
3. Get rid of all of the sealant
4. Get rid of all of the thorns, staples, tire wires, and whatnot poking through the tire
5. Install a tube
6. Limp back to civilization

Fortunately ripping a tire is extremely rare for most of us. I've never had it happen to me (knock on wood).

 

[fooferdoggie]

I have the most problem with flat out I the rear tie leaking out. you can see it here. the front is fine. same tires though different rims.

 

[Avg_Joe]

With Flat out is it more common to use it with tubes, or to go tubeless? Just thinking about my e-mountain bike. It's set up with tubes and I don't want to go through the hassle of switching over to a tubeless setup (and I'm not even sure if the rims are tubeless compatible).

Either. Again, I run it in tubes and tubeless.

 

[m@Robertson]

With Flat out is it more common to use it with tubes, or to go tubeless? Just thinking about my e-mountain bike. It's set up with tubes and I don't want to go through the hassle of switching over to a tubeless setup (and I'm not even sure if the rims are tubeless compatible).

Its more common to use it with tubes. I think I was literally the first one to try it as a tubeless sealant as I discussed it with the company in advance and they told me it wasn't something they had done or thought about up to that time, which was I think a couple of years ago, at least. Since then I know plenty of people have done it.

Here is a head to head of various sealants and Tannus, with Flatout being tested alongside them.

 

[PedalUma]

That is how I get flats too. I regularly ride over drills.

 

[DaveMatthews]

That is how I get flats too. I regularly ride over drills.

Ya gotta stop doin' dat!