Tubeless on the Vado 3.0

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Anyone know what it would take to make the wheels on a Vado 3.0 tubeless?

I had my first flat from a pitch yesterday. Easy enough to swap the tube out but I’d like to prevent it from happening again.
 
It's complicated for road bike wheels, requiring special rim and tire combinations. You may be limited to lower pressures (<40psi) going tubeless using the OEM wheels on the Vado 3. If you tend to get flats under your ride conditions you should probably just get tougher tires. The Vado 6 is spec'd with Armadillo tires which are described as having "Anti Flat Technology". They're pretty burly, but you sacrifice some compliance.
 
I took a short cut though a gravel path in the dark and hit something pretty hard to get the pinch flat. If it’s difficult I’ll stick to tubed tires and stay on the bike path.
 
It shouldn't be too hard, check out the gorilla tape method on YouTube. Most rims will take tubeless especially at reasonable pressure (40psi+), it's a low pressures that 'good tubeless' rims are noticeable.
IMHO it is the tyres that are most important. Tyres that aren't 'tubeless ready' may be hard to get to bead.
 
Great. I’m giving it a shot. I had a a small piece of glass cause a flat today. I needed to use a compressed to get the tires to snap in but otherwise the first tire has worked great. The second tire (the one with the puncture from today) has been a bit more problematic because of the hole it has but it’s starting to hold air after a few tries of moving the fluid around and air refills.
 
Did mine tubeless on the weekend with Gorilla tape, 45mm valves and Joes Eco Sealant (could have used any sealant). With the Almotion tyres it was super-easy to set up.
 
If you are switching to tubeless from a tubed setup at the very least you would need new valves even it the rims came with a sealant type tape. The valves have a gasket that seal them to the rim.

As far as Gorilla tape goes yes it will work but not for the long haul I found. The sealant keeps the sticky side of the tape moist enough that if you have to take off the tire it peels up and away and you will have to re-do the tape job after spending time cleaning the rim of the old adhesive. I had better luck with Scotch brand Tough tape but now I just use the yellow tape that is recommended by most of the manufacturers or its equivalent. A bit hard to get installed but done right it will last pretty much the life of the rim.

A good thing to do with any tape install is to clean the rim thoroughly with Alcohol to provide the best base for adhesion. Also Toast if the hole made by the glass is anything bigger than a very small one I would suggest plugging it. I neglected to do so with a hole I got from a screw which sealed ok but later the sealant blew out while underway and the tire tore in both directions laterally from the hole ruining the tire.
 
Also consider the "Ghetto Tubless" method. Search that term on YouTube. I did it on my mid-drive grocery-getter build with great results. If your rims already are drilled for the larger schrader valve and are not tubeless ready then this method has a lot of merit.
 
As far as Gorilla tape goes yes it will work but not for the long haul I found. The sealant keeps the sticky side of the tape moist enough that if you have to take off the tire it peels up and away and you will have to re-do the tape job after spending time cleaning the rim of the old adhesive. I had better luck with Scotch brand Tough tape but now I just use the yellow tape that is recommended by most of the manufacturers or its equivalent. A bit hard to get installed but done right it will last pretty much the life of the rim.
@JRA is right - the Stans yellow tape (or other equivalents) is better to use than Gorilla tape.
 
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