Deacon Blues
Well-Known Member
Captain S, did you ride mostly in Eco mode?
Took the Creo out for my first group ride
- Thread starter Captain Slow
- Start date
Captain Slow
Well-Known Member
Yes, I would estimate about 90% - 95% Eco, the rest a split between Sport and Turbo
steve mercier
Well-Known Member
Look at is this way... today you are faster than Eddie Merckx. I drum better than Buddy Rich....he cannot even hold the sticks.
So can I ask you what Creo you have? I am new here so if you posted this previously I am sorry. I am swaying between a Creo Comp SL, Fazua Domane Trek, and the Trek Domane HP which is a Bosch bike. Good report btw. I would think the Specialized is the best bike for me but we don't have a dealer in our community any longer and my friend owns a Trek store that I have bought a ton of stuff from. Of course friends with many of the guys there. I just worry about the Creo and getting service if I have an issue.
steve mercier
Well-Known Member
It sounds like you have answered your own question. To me servicing is huge, and exasperating when I can not get it .
Alaskan
Well-Known Member
I've been interested in this bike and it is very good to read about your rides on it and how your riding style dovetails with its tech. Thanks for sharing in such depth.
While some of my rides are in low assist and I get great electron mileage, I do enjoy putting the bike in Turbo once in a while and leaning in the pedals, getting my heart rate up to the 130 level and putting 150 plus watts in on my own, flying down the road at 26-27 mph. The great thing about these bikes we can choose and we can change it up or not.
While some of my rides are in low assist and I get great electron mileage, I do enjoy putting the bike in Turbo once in a while and leaning in the pedals, getting my heart rate up to the 130 level and putting 150 plus watts in on my own, flying down the road at 26-27 mph. The great thing about these bikes we can choose and we can change it up or not.
Captain Slow
Well-Known Member
I have the E5 which is the aluminum road model.
Esther
New Member
Thanks for the information! I am leaning toward the Trek Domane+ LT because the geometry is closer to what I need. My plain road bike is a 51cm with 520mm effective top tube (I have a short torso). I would like some help on hills, and to use a motor to extend distance of my rides. I've had a below knee amputation since childhood and I think I've gotten the max out of my existing muscles. I want rack and fender bosses, even though I'm not going to have a rack mounted all of the time. I currently have a Trek Verve+ and I find that the upright geometry limits the distance of rides - my road bike is more comfortable for 35 miles than the Verve+ is.
WOW never heard that Before : So you are more comfortable bent over then Straight up? DO you have a curvature ?? you can drop the verve handlebars a lot : A good 40 degrees
Deacon Blues
Well-Known Member
For January and February the weather on Vancouver Island was pretty crappy and most of my senior's group rides were cancelled. When I could I went out for rides by myself and took my Pedego RidgeRider instead of one of my carbon road bikes. My RidgeRider has a swept-back handledbar, instead of the stock mountain bike bar style.
The last couple of weeks I've been back on my road bike, with its drop bars. I've found that for shorter, slower rides and for riding in areas with a lot of traffic I prefer the RidgeRiders upright riding position, but for longer, faster rides I prefer the road bike with the drop bars.
I may be buying a commuter style ebike in the next few months and if I do I plan on switching the straight bar for a Jones bar, which will allow me to ride upright and in a more stretched-out positon.
The last couple of weeks I've been back on my road bike, with its drop bars. I've found that for shorter, slower rides and for riding in areas with a lot of traffic I prefer the RidgeRiders upright riding position, but for longer, faster rides I prefer the road bike with the drop bars.
I may be buying a commuter style ebike in the next few months and if I do I plan on switching the straight bar for a Jones bar, which will allow me to ride upright and in a more stretched-out positon.
Esther
New Member
Dropping the handlebars down is not so helpful if they are too far away for a comfortable reach.
On my road bike I am bent forward enough to engage the hamstrings, but not aggressive, racy, aerodynamic posture. My road bike has a short reach that fits me precisely, and I've had a professional bike fit on that bike. I am one of the folks who benefits from women specific geometry (longer legs, shorter torso and arms).
On the Verve+, my hamstrings are not very engaged and my quad muscles get fatigued. Also, I get discomfort at the distal end of tibia on the amputated side - getting a good fit on the upright posture style is hard for me (possibly due to my short reach for my height). Now that I have a bunch of miles on the Verve+, I need to put it on a bike trainer and fiddle with the saddle and handlebar positions again.
I got rid of an upright posture comfort bike in 2005. I'd had a bike fit on it, and just could not adjust it to be comfortable enough for more than 25 mile rides. That's when I switched to somewhat upright road bikes.
Saratoga Dave
Well-Known Member
So I was at my LBS yesterday ordering a different chainring for my ToughRoad, and I encountered this little beauty. Talk about stealth, I walked right past it twice before the shop owner asked me if I had gone blind over the winter.
Wow, what a gorgeous bike! This is the Evo version, and from a visual and other physical assessment point of view, it just looks all quality. You literally cannot tell it’s an ebike without looking pretty hard at the bottom bracket area, the only real giveaway... and that is all contained and swoopy in the framework.
Extraordinarily light, too. I plan to get a short ride on it when I drop mine off when the chainring shows up. Specialized really hit it out of the park with this, it is stunning in person. Fortunately my wife was with me, or I might have had some fast talking to do when I got home, it was that impressive.
Wow, what a gorgeous bike! This is the Evo version, and from a visual and other physical assessment point of view, it just looks all quality. You literally cannot tell it’s an ebike without looking pretty hard at the bottom bracket area, the only real giveaway... and that is all contained and swoopy in the framework.
Extraordinarily light, too. I plan to get a short ride on it when I drop mine off when the chainring shows up. Specialized really hit it out of the park with this, it is stunning in person. Fortunately my wife was with me, or I might have had some fast talking to do when I got home, it was that impressive.
Alaskan
Well-Known Member
I took one for a test ride here in Bellingham a few weeks ago. It is a phenomenal bike, quiet, light weight, smooth and seamless power, no drag when the motor is disengages.
Three things held me back.
The fact that the motor is a 1.0 version of a completely new motor with no service records or reliability reports.
The only way the battery can be removed is by first removing the motor so it must be done by the dealer.
I don't like riding drop handlebars.
So this is what I took home this past Friday.
Three things held me back.
The fact that the motor is a 1.0 version of a completely new motor with no service records or reliability reports.
The only way the battery can be removed is by first removing the motor so it must be done by the dealer.
I don't like riding drop handlebars.
So this is what I took home this past Friday.
Captain Slow
Well-Known Member
Dave, is your Tough Road motorized? If so, I'm interested to hear more about the chain ring. Are you just replacing a worn out one, or are you changing the size? If the latter, what are you changing from and to?
Alaskan - that rack only holds the bike by the wheels? It looks like a bit of a balancing act to secure the bike.
Alaskan - that rack only holds the bike by the wheels? It looks like a bit of a balancing act to secure the bike.
Alaskan
Well-Known Member
Capt., take another look. There is frame clamp halfway down the lower seat tube keeping it upright. The tightening knob also has a lock that disengages the knob, making theft something that requires a good saw. There is a second clamp, not on the rack at the moment that is on a longer arm to secure a second bike.
Captain Slow
Well-Known Member
That makes so much more sense. Don't know what I was thinking, without the frame clamp the bike wouldn't be stable.
This is my take on riding with Roadie friends.
I go ride with several of my friends who are very fit riders (very lean, very fit) they ride high end carbon bikes. They ride fast (25+mph average). Unless I get lean I can not keep that kind of average for a long time on a normal bike even if it is carbon.
In the first ride I joined them with my bosch mid drive. Although when I push I pass them (and they don't like it) the first thing I realized that at higher speeds because of the unaero seating position most of the power goes to waste. When we were both going 27+ it was interesting to see that the power output shown on Nyon was very close to the powermeter of my friend next to me. We were both 300W-400W.
I usually went to %25 (custom modes) to save battery when I can and never went past %100 support still on a 25 mile (1500feet elevation) I used around 250-300wh of battery.
-Unless it is an uphill keeping up with very good riders requires a significant effort.
-Averaging high speeds with a mid drive having wide tires and an upright position is not efficient. At 27+ most of the support is going to waste.
-Downhill on a good road bike with thin tires is faster.
-Ok I have to change this, even with the same riding position the carbon bike with thin tires is rolling much faster. Did an experiment today and on flats I had to pedal to keep up with a friend who was on a 17lbs carbon bike just coasting. It may also be the tires, g-ones are supposed to be the fastest rolling tires of similar width but the thin ones are simply much better.
-Oh they don't like it when I push 30+mph and drop them
.
If you are comfortable with the riding position on drops then a bike like Creo is a great option. The riding should be getting some help to accelerate and going uphill then turning assist off for the rest of the ride.
If you can no longer tolerate the dropbars then keeping those high speeds you should have a big battery pack(and preferably a more powerful hub motor like a stromer).
I like riding my normal aluminum road bike for leisure. Even though it is not carbon still around 22lbs and every time I get back to it I like how light it feels. Keeping 20mph is easy. Unfortunately my neck is no longer comfortable with that riding position so I ride it for shorter distances(15-20 miles).
I go ride with several of my friends who are very fit riders (very lean, very fit) they ride high end carbon bikes. They ride fast (25+mph average). Unless I get lean I can not keep that kind of average for a long time on a normal bike even if it is carbon.
In the first ride I joined them with my bosch mid drive. Although when I push I pass them (and they don't like it) the first thing I realized that at higher speeds because of the unaero seating position most of the power goes to waste. When we were both going 27+ it was interesting to see that the power output shown on Nyon was very close to the powermeter of my friend next to me. We were both 300W-400W.
I usually went to %25 (custom modes) to save battery when I can and never went past %100 support still on a 25 mile (1500feet elevation) I used around 250-300wh of battery.
-Unless it is an uphill keeping up with very good riders requires a significant effort.
-Averaging high speeds with a mid drive having wide tires and an upright position is not efficient. At 27+ most of the support is going to waste.
-Downhill on a good road bike with thin tires is faster.
-Ok I have to change this, even with the same riding position the carbon bike with thin tires is rolling much faster. Did an experiment today and on flats I had to pedal to keep up with a friend who was on a 17lbs carbon bike just coasting. It may also be the tires, g-ones are supposed to be the fastest rolling tires of similar width but the thin ones are simply much better.
-Oh they don't like it when I push 30+mph and drop them
.If you are comfortable with the riding position on drops then a bike like Creo is a great option. The riding should be getting some help to accelerate and going uphill then turning assist off for the rest of the ride.
If you can no longer tolerate the dropbars then keeping those high speeds you should have a big battery pack(and preferably a more powerful hub motor like a stromer).
I like riding my normal aluminum road bike for leisure. Even though it is not carbon still around 22lbs and every time I get back to it I like how light it feels. Keeping 20mph is easy. Unfortunately my neck is no longer comfortable with that riding position so I ride it for shorter distances(15-20 miles).
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Deacon Blues
Well-Known Member
This is the bike I want, unless Specialized brings out an EVO Aluminum verson. In Canada the EVO carbon is $8,000, while the aluminum Creo is $6,000. That's a substantial price difference.
Captain Slow
Well-Known Member
What is it about the Evo version you want? Dropper post, flared bars or the tires?
There's not much difference so you can buy the aluminum and add the bits you want.
There's not much difference so you can buy the aluminum and add the bits you want.
Saratoga Dave
Well-Known Member
The one I saw yesterday is tagged at $6500 US. Those flared bars are really nice!
My bike is a 2018 ToughRoad e+, so a Class 1 that I love very much. Never missed the extra top end of the Class 3 I had before, but most of my riding is between 15-20 mph so it has never been an issue.
Capt, mine came with a 48 tooth chainring new out of the box, although the US specs called for a 42. Cassette is the usual 11-42. Given the way I ride, I almost never get to the two top gears, and my low gear is just a little higher than I’d like it to be. I’m getting the 42 tooth that it should have had all along, like the new Revolt e+ bikes have.
One of my missions for this spring is to go up Prospect Mtn above Lake George, a ride that calls to me every time we drive past up the Northway. Seven miles up, up and up! I think my day will be considerably improved with that 42/42 bottom gear. A fair bit of my riding is in the Adirondacks and there seem to be a lot of pretty impressive hills around.
And Richard, I hear you. That Allant is one great looking bike, and I bet with the new v4 motor it will be a blast to ride. Hope you’re on it right soon.
My bike is a 2018 ToughRoad e+, so a Class 1 that I love very much. Never missed the extra top end of the Class 3 I had before, but most of my riding is between 15-20 mph so it has never been an issue.
Capt, mine came with a 48 tooth chainring new out of the box, although the US specs called for a 42. Cassette is the usual 11-42. Given the way I ride, I almost never get to the two top gears, and my low gear is just a little higher than I’d like it to be. I’m getting the 42 tooth that it should have had all along, like the new Revolt e+ bikes have.
One of my missions for this spring is to go up Prospect Mtn above Lake George, a ride that calls to me every time we drive past up the Northway. Seven miles up, up and up! I think my day will be considerably improved with that 42/42 bottom gear. A fair bit of my riding is in the Adirondacks and there seem to be a lot of pretty impressive hills around.
And Richard, I hear you. That Allant is one great looking bike, and I bet with the new v4 motor it will be a blast to ride. Hope you’re on it right soon.
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