Thule Easyfold XT2 - A good rack for ebikes and the best one if you have fenders

Purchased on Amazon for $165. Can carry 2 I just have it set up for 1, 60 lbs max per bike.
 

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I have the Thule easyfold rack and use it on a towball which is plugged into the hitch on my Sportage The securing pin is only 1.5" from the end, as shown on the Right illustration in the drawing in post No5.


However the hitch is 9.5" long and 8" down is a 19mm nut welded to the underside of the hitch. A 19mm bolt is screwed very tightly through onto the towball fitting. Whatever is on the towball is very secure and is not coming off
 

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In addition the locking mechanism disables the tightening knobs rather than using an easily cut cable.



Here is a close up of the clamp on the seat tube showing the key slot on the knob. Once locked the knob just spins freely.

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Alaskan, thank you very much for this and for your many helpful posts.
The locking mechanism is one of my criteria and while I know that nothing can deter a determined thief, could this locking mechanism be easily defeated simply by breaking the plastic clamp that attaches to the hitch U tube? I like this rack a lot but when it comes to locking, "a chain is only as strong as its weakest link" so I would think all metal locking is the only way to go. Also, in what may or may not be related to this, a reviewer on the Thule website reports that their bikes were stolen by someone simply jamming a knife in the lock to defeat it, (plastic?), so be aware. Any insights on potential easy plastic break points of the clamp/locking system or am I misunderstanding how this works?
 
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Alaskan, thank you very much for this and for your many helpful posts.
The locking mechanism is one of my criteria and while I know that nothing can deter a determined thief, could this locking mechanism be easily defeated simply by breaking the plastic clamp that attaches to the hitch U tube? I like this rack a lot but when it comes to locking, "a chain is only as strong as its weakest link" so I would think all metal locking is the only way to go. Also, in what may or may not be related to this, a reviewer on the Thule website reports that their bikes were stolen by someone simply jamming a knife in the lock to defeat it, (plastic?), so be aware. Any insights on potential easy plastic break points of the clamp/locking system or am I misunderstanding how this works?
The exterior of the clamp is plastic and rubber. Given the force with which it grips the frame, I am certain the framework, hinge, etc. Is metal. Give me a cordless skill saw and I'll defeat any rack's security.
 
Thanks Alaskan. Totally agree on the skill saw but it is the screwdriver or hammer that I think most of us are concerned about.
A reviewer on Amazon and REI posted this pic of the plastic part of the arm that "broke like it was glass" when he "bumped" it when unboxing and made me wonder if a thief would be able to easily do the same (without skill saw).
I do like the rack and a supplemental locking system from the bike to the rack U tube would be a potential remedy....just wanted to get some clarity and also give you and others a headsup regarding protecting your bikes.

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I'm finding that Townie style frames JUST barely fit on most racks. Their long wheelbase can be an issue.
 
I have yet to see a rack I would leave my bikes on overnight. If my lodging does not have secure storage or allow bikes in the room I go somewhere that does.

Yes, I agree and in fairness to Thule, I checked on another manufacturer's rack, which is very heavy duty, with locking hooks which appear to be all metal, but they are the same....parts of the hook assembly are plastic, so Thule appears to be no different, at least in this case.
 
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I have owned the Thule easyfold rack for two years and have not been happy with it for a number of reasons. First and foremost is my Turbo Levo cannot be safely secured no matter how I attach the clamp. Even though I lock the clamp, it will still loosen up during the trip. The platform is very flimsy. Someone apparently backed into it in a parking lot last year and the one side was dented and no longer sits flat.
I realize the materials used in making the rack were probably chosen to keep the weight to a minimum but they are not sturdy. The $700 price tag was too much for the quality of this rack. It's very difficult to find a platform rack that fits a 1,.25" hitch that can carry the weight of two e-bikes.
 
I also own this rack and highly recommend it. Fits my M2S 750 fat tire and my buddy's bike with no problem. Not the cheapest option but probably the best and easiest to use that's out there right now.
 
Thanks Bonefish, Alaskan, and Gadgetnut for your helpful comments. I don't have a rack yet, but I have been researching racks pretty intensely and think that I am coming to the same conclusion. It just seems incredibly well designed in so many different ways.

First of all, since I will have fenders, as Alaskan titled this thread, this one is the best for me and the other various wheel clamp design racks are non-starters for me.

Then, the fact that we are riding Ebikes means that we want assistance to make things a little easier and it appears that is what this rack does so in many ways.

Many rightly focus on the loading ramps which, for our heavier ebikes, seem to be helpful, unique, and improved from when they first came out.

But I also think about the other hassle, the frequent "on and off" the vehicle of the hitch itself. Being relatively lightweight compared to most of the other hitches, having wheels to roll it up to the vehicle, being able to be folded up into a compact, much more handle-able configuration, all seem genius in being so much easier than having to horse around a big ole hitch every time as we are not getting any younger.

I think about traveling....as Alaskan said, I don't want to leave my expensive bikes on my car overnight....any lock can be defeated and I would think that hotel parking lots are prime pickings for thieves....even though it locks on the car, maybe I don't even want to leave my expensive rack on my car. With this one, being foldable, it's so compact and easy, I can just fold it up and lock it in the back of my car. And even around town, it's so compact, unless I really need the space in my vehicle, some of the time, I could just leave it in the back of my vehicle. Or at home, at 12 x 26", it is not going to take up a ton of floor space in the garage or utility room like any other hitch would. This seems like a big deal.

And it comes pre-assembled, ready-to go!

Yes, people see the $ 750 and that is expensive but it does seem like it is in a league of its own in many different ways, and if you watch it on Amazon, depending on the supplier that they are using, it can really come down from there....currently $ 607 which is a lot closer to the other hitches with a lot of unique benefits not found elsewhere.

Check out this video from etrailer to see these things and others demonstrated.

https://www.etrailer.com/tv-review-thule-ezfold-xt-2-electric-bike-rack-th903202.aspx
 
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I looked very seriously at this rack, many visits to the store and actually tried my two folding bikes on it without much success. The price didn’t scare me, but it’s functionality did. I ghought the platforms were to short needed and extra 5” on each side to properly support the tires and for our bikes the clamp rack could have been a bit taller. I would suggest you at least look at the Yakima Holdup Evo, comes in both 1.25 and 2” versions, real nice design and holds bikes firmly, drove from northeast to Florida twice with no incidents and much less money. My 2 cents.
 
I can load two bikes, by myself, with the Thule Easyfold XT2. Yes, the ramp is a bit narrow, but I can do it. I also can get the rack in and out of the hitch by myself, lift it into the back of the SUV by myself, and put it away by myself. With a regular rack, I cannot do some of these things. It's great to be able to have a rack that I can use independently. I don't use the rack often--most of our rides begin from home. I just used it this week to take my bike to the Pedego dealer to swap out for a loaner while they did a warranty repair, and to take back the loaner and pick up my bike. I could have ridden, but it would have taken a lot more time and both days were really busy at work.

One time the rack arm fell off when I was riding with one Pedego. I got to my destination, and the bike was laying flat, attached only by the wheels. It was not damaged. The destination was my bike tech's place, and he put it back together. I asked him if he thought the rack was dangerous and he said "these things happen." So, for extra security, after clamping down the clamps, I also strap the bikes to the rack.

I looked at the 1UP rack, which looks awesome and also comes with a ramp, but it is much heavier and clamps down on the fenders. Fenders are a must-have where I live, so can't remove them. 1UP said that they provide packing foam for use with fenders, but that fenders will still get bent. I also wasn't confident that I'd be able to lift and install/uninstall the rack solo.

Happy rack shopping!
 
Same story with my three year old Yakima rack, which I had liked very much until that point. I was turning onto my street, so going very slowly - fortunately - and heard a mighty thunk and scraping from the rear. Look in the rear view mirror, no brand new, $3600 bike.

The ratchet on the post had failed, the arm over the top tube jumped, and the bike went over backwards. Incredibly, the only damage was the mirror and the corner of the drop bars where the road burned off the tape and scored the aluminum. The brake lever, the pedal, nothing else at all ever touched the ground. So very lucky.

Enter the 1 Up rack, which amazingly was delivered overnight. All aluminum, 23 pounds, dead easy to get on and off, but a little tough to steal unless your thief happens to have the special Allen wrench needed. I have the one bike tray version, which I just love. It doesn’t interfere with my backup camera when folded up since there’s only one tray, though the rear sensors still have to be turned off.

We have this bridge near here with some sort of weird resonance in it that I didn’t dare cross any more than about 40 mph... the bike would bounce and shake like mad back there. For some reason, the 1 Up is solid as a rock over it. My experience with it is all positive.

Great feeling though, isn’t it, when you realize the bike ain’t there anymore and you’re still moving!
 
I'm finding that Townie style frames JUST barely fit on most racks. Their long wheelbase can be an issue.
That’s true, but I have used this rack to transport my two townies in my 1300 mile drive from the Midwest to southwest Florida and back every year and never had an issue with it.
I agree with Alaskan that the bikes go into the hotel room with me. Easy on and easy off is the other great feature about this rack so I don’t dread taking the bikes on and off frequently.
From a security standpoint, I also use the cafe locks with the abus plug chain and lock the bikes together. Furthermore I have a second abus chain that locks the bikes together using a high security padlock.

As already mentioned, if a pro wants your bikes, they will get them regardless of the rack.
 
Same story with my three year old Yakima rack, which I had liked very much until that point. I was turning onto my street, so going very slowly - fortunately - and heard a mighty thunk and scraping from the rear. Look in the rear view mirror, no brand new, $3600 bike.

The ratchet on the post had failed, the arm over the top tube jumped, and the bike went over backwards. Incredibly, the only damage was the mirror and the corner of the drop bars where the road burned off the tape and scored the aluminum. The brake lever, the pedal, nothing else at all ever touched the ground. So very lucky.

Enter the 1 Up rack, which amazingly was delivered overnight. All aluminum, 23 pounds, dead easy to get on and off, but a little tough to steal unless your thief happens to have the special Allen wrench needed. I have the one bike tray version, which I just love. It doesn’t interfere with my backup camera when folded up since there’s only one tray, though the rear sensors still have to be turned off.

We have this bridge near here with some sort of weird resonance in it that I didn’t dare cross any more than about 40 mph... the bike would bounce and shake like mad back there. For some reason, the 1 Up is solid as a rock over it. My experience with it is all positive.

Great feeling though, isn’t it, when you realize the bike ain’t there anymore and you’re still moving!

I checked out the 1 up website this weekend and was really impressed with their racks. Placed an order with them yesterday for a single rack and one add on.
This rack looks perfect for my Levo.
Just sitting here waiting for my package to ship!
 
I have owned the Thule easyfold rack for two years and have not been happy with it for a number of reasons. First and foremost is my Turbo Levo cannot be safely secured no matter how I attach the clamp. Even though I lock the clamp, it will still loosen up during the trip.

Thank you Kathik for sharing your insights.

On the Easyfold, I understand why you would not be happy that the clamp is loosening.
Why do you think that is happening? Are you tighening it until it clicks?
The rack comes with 2 clamps. Have you tried the other clamp to see if perhaps the first clamp is defective?
What does Thule say about this?
This does not seem right....
 
Thank you Kathik for sharing your insights.

On the Easyfold, I understand why you would not be happy that the clamp is loosening.
Why do you think that the clamp is loosening? Are you tighening it until it clicks?
The rack comes with 2 clamps. Have you tried the other clamp to see if perhaps the first clamp is defective?
What does Thule say about this?
This does not seem right....

I believe the major problem is the design of my bike. It is a full suspension mountain bike that does not have even one small area to get the clamp around and secure properly. I prefer to keep it to the inside and use the short clamp but I think the reason it loosens up is its on an angle and yes, I tighten it until it clicks then lock it but it doesn't stay tight. I find it easier to secure putting the bike in the outside position and using the long armed clamp, but since the tray was bumped by someone last year it has become unsafe to use in that position. I now secure the bike to the rack using multiple straps and a bike lock to secure it in place. This is just not an acceptable or safe way to transport a heavy bike.
I am just going to cut my losses and spend the money on the 1up rack. It's cheaper than having a $5000 bike fly off the back of my car.
The easy fold rack may be a good choice for some e-bikes, it works fine with my Raleigh Redux, but not my Levo which is the bike I ride the most.
 
I put a Curt class 1 trailer hitch on our Subaru Tribeca. I had the work done at a local truck/rv accessory shop, not the Subaru dealer. The hole on mine is about 3 inches forward of the rear edge of the receiver, so it has a good hold on the tongue of the rack. I would not use that extension. It does not really solve the problem, as the adapter would not be inserted far enough. In fact it introduces a new potential issue putting the rack even further back from the point of attachment of the hitch, giving the bike unwanted extra leverage against the car's frame.

I would consider drilling another hole deeper into the receiver, as deep as the tongue on the rack will allow. With three years passage it is way too late to ask Subaru to put a proper hitch in place and drilling it out in place would not be an easy task but that is the only thing that can be done short of putting a new hitch on the car. I think mine cost around $300 installed. Also U-Haul is a great place to get hitches installed at a reasonable cost. You might go there and see what they can do.
Alaskan-I have a new Homage which I carry on my EASYFOLD X2 rack. Because of the geometry of the bike and the rack, I have not found that either the long or short clamp allows me to get a good solid grip on the seat post down tube. I had the bike in the slot close to the car. Do you have a photo showing how you do it?
Thanks
 
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