The saddle thread: Cloud 9 sizes and images on page three

[Reid]

On all my C-9 seats, I had to use a pair of vice grips to move the 2 rails closer. I started with one vice grip to clamp the 2 rails closer together, then use a second vice grip beside the first with a tighter bite. And then readjust the first vice grip for more tightening and let it sit there for an hour.

I also tried numerous bicycle seats and seat post suspensions. For me, the sitting comfort of the C-9 seat is worth the hassle of bending the rails into place.

Do you have favorite models of the Cloud 9 range? There are so many of them, from very wide, to medium-narrow.

 

[Bruce Arnold]

Here's a link to the Cloud 9 seat I bought from Amazon, for those who are considering the different models. Had it for a month and I really like it. The shape is good for my shape, and the coil springs really do help dampen the bumps. Probably not as well as a suspension seat post, but compared to any other bicycle seat I've used, it's a noticeable improvement.

 

[Trail Cruiser]

Do you have favorite models of the Cloud 9 range? There are so many of them, from very wide, to medium-narrow.

Currently (since I sold my other ebikes) I have the 10X10

(Link Removed - No Longer Exists)


and the 12x11 (cloth version).

(Link Removed - No Longer Exists)


I like the 10x10 better, probably, i'ts more suitable for my weight (190 lbs)

 

[christob]

Well, I managed to get the C9 onto my seatpost!
However, first I ordered a second C9, a bit smaller version from the "middle sizes"… the Non-Suspension Comfort model. It arrived today, and I quickly tested it against my seatpost clamp, to find out it's rails were almost perfect; just barely, slightly too wide apart. But just tightening the clamp pulled the rails into the clamp channels. Then I sat on it, but didn't like it one bit.
So I thought, perhaps the first C9 that I wrote about above, the cruiser select model with springs, could also be made to have its rails pull into the clamp channels during tightening. After much struggling, that was just not going to happen. I tried my adjustable wrench at its widest point, but it was just barely not wide enough to get a good purchase, to try and squeeze the rails together. So, following @Reid 's advice that I am the boss of the saddle, I tightened the clamp down so that one rail was fully seated, and then took the old fashioned approach... pulled out a hammer to bang the hell out of the other rail, hoping to nudge it into the channel…
It eventually worked! Now the cruiser c9 saddle is installed, but it's too late to go out for a test ride. That's for tomorrow afternoon

 

[john peck]

I dunno, but I will try Brooks again. Years ago had a sprung, B-66 but it was too wide for my narrow sit bones.

Have been riding a fair amount on a narrow, padded plastic saddle and it suits me fine. I do not do well on a wide saddle.

However, there is a narrow and firm saddle I am going to try out. It is a Brooks Swift and was found in used-but-new condition through Amazon for $106 delivered; returnable if not liked:

View attachment 22995

Why would I want to try a Brooks? Because it is nice looking and historical. Esthetics are pleasing if also functional.

But, if my posterior cannot adapt to it I will concede defeet and admit that I am an --- to even try this thing!

(grins)

This is a saddle thread. What saddles work for you?


(correction and edit: it was a B-66 that I had years ago and found to be too wide for my narrow sit bones)

Like the new avatar Reid, makes ya look cultured. I still ride a b72 made in 1966, (50+) dbl rail, directional springs.

 

[Reid]

I toon pianners wherever I can fine them.

Like the new avatar Reid, makes ya look cultured. I still ride a b72 made in 1966, (50+) dbl rail, directional springs.

Yogurt cultured me says thanks. I is.

Am truly enjoying the new Brooks. Makes me feel like you: a hardpan, hardass, bicycle primalist!

 

[christob]

PS - I've been out riding 4 times on the C9 Cruiser (w/ lycra fabric); about 78 miles accumulated on it as of tonight. It is a pretty nice change from the still-stiff-leather Brooks B67. (ie, the B67 that had the rail break this month... I opted to return it to Amazon for a refund, rather than pursue any warranty claim/repair.)
While the C9 is comfy and broad, I think it becomes even a tad more comfy when I wear the padded cycle shorts. Though I can see where the broad size of it could pose a little challenge if I needed a long ride of heavy, sustained, aggressive pedaling. (Most of my rides dip in and out of the moderate-to-heavy pedaling range, rather than sustained heavy pedaling.)
Anyway, at about $30 for the C9, I don't feel like it can disappoint too much at all, regardless... Still haven't ruled out a new B67 (and the water treatment) -- but I'm not in a rush for it now.

 

[Bruce Arnold]

While the C9 is comfy and broad, I think it becomes even a tad more comfy when I wear the padded cycle shorts

I wear cycle shorts for added comfort with the C9 for any ride over 10 miles. Sometimes less if I just feel like it.

 

[TheGadgetGuru]

Here's a link to the Cloud 9 seat I bought from Amazon, for those who are considering the different models. Had it for a month and I really like it. The shape is good for my shape, and the coil springs really do help dampen the bumps. Probably not as well as a suspension seat post, but compared to any other bicycle seat I've used, it's a noticeable improvement.

This is the same model that is included with the Veego 750. After 100 miles I can say this is my favorite seat. I'll be adding one to my Surface 604 Rook.

 

[Kurt in CT]

Is it overkill to get a C-9 type seat PLUS a spring loaded seat post such as : "Suntour SP12-NCX Mountain Road Bike Suspension Travel Seatpost".

 

[Bruce Arnold]

Is it overkill to get a C-9 type seat PLUS a spring loaded seat post such as : "Suntour SP12-NCX Mountain Road Bike Suspension Travel Seatpost".

I don't see why not. "Too much comfort?" That's not a thing.

Edited because I didn't mean to imply "I don't see why you would do such a thing." I think you should be as comfy as you wish.

 

[Reid]

I don't see why. "Too much comfort?" That's not a thing.

Exactly correct. Years ago I pedaled on a Cloud 9 cruiser bike wide seat for over 2,500 miles. I had no complaint. It was comfortable. Today, almost ten years later, I find that a very hard and skinny Brooks Swift saddle suits me even bettter.

GO figure.

The point is, folks: Bruce is correct. So are you.

Your fanny rules your brain and aways has in procreation and recreation.

 

[larry-new]

Just got my new B17 Imperial in...been thirty or forty years since I had a Brooks. I'll break it in the Brooks way, thanks...with Proofide.
Brooks literature cautions several times against wetting the leather...I'll heed their recommendations, as I did before...the old saddle had tens of thousands of miles on it. Btw, the Proofide goes on the bottom (and is not wiped off), not the top...don't remember that from before.

My other saddle tries were money wasted.

 

[E-Wheels]

Btw, the Proofhide goes on the bottom (and is not wiped off), not the top...don't remember that from before.

Good call on the Brooks B17
I’ve got one myself and very happy with it
Hoping it breaks in nicely for you, as mine has after 1,800 km
The Brooks website states; “Apply a little Proofide to the finished side of the leather”
The finished side is the top
However, they also state; “On bicycles not fitted with mudguards, an initial application to the underside of the saddle will be beneficial, this needs not to be polished off.”
https://www.brooksengland.com/en_row/proofide-40g-tin.html

 

[larry-new]

Here's from the Brooks Leather Saddles Product Information & Guarantee:

"A new saddle should he treated with Brooks Proofide Leather Dressing to help assist the 'breaking-in' process. Proofide helps to keep the leather supple as it is carefully formulated from special ingredients to condition, preserve and shower proof your saddle. Proofide needs to be applied to the underside of the saddle and in this case it should be left on. Apply very little Proofide to the finished top side of the leather. Allow the Proofide to permeate until dry and then polish off with a cloth to avoid getting any on your clothes. Proofide must not be applied to the upper side of the Aged Saddles. This Leather Dressing should be used several times during the 'breaking-in' and every few months thereafter. Brooks Proofide is the only substance that should be used to care for your saddle."

 

[bob armani]

Checkout the B17 Narrow Imperial. It has the cutout for....

https://www.brooksengland.com/en_us/saddles/mtb/b17-narrow-imperial-3.html

I've been riding a Brooks B17 Imperial for 9 or 10k miles. I like it very much. I'd guess it took every bit of 500+ miles to break in. The idea of a Brooks is that your sit bones, once toughened up a bit, will hold your body up off the saddle so the major nerve endings aren't compressed. A friend of mine once said firm is soft! I would never call it soft, just very comfortable. Not everybody will like a Brooks and getting the right one for your sit bones can be a bit of trial and error. When people ask me about mine I say it's very comfortable, I have a boney butt I guess, because they often don't see comfort in it. I also will suggest that the comfort comes with several hours in the saddle a week (more than several really). Keeps the butt tough.

Saddles, grips and pedals are just so personal it's hard to give a recommendation of model or brand. I did mount my spare Serfas saddle this spring for a couple rides due to a back issue I was suffering with, I thought it might help. After a 25 mile ride I was back to the B17 to stay.

Just recently purchased two Serfas saddles with the Dual Density Foam/Gel and am happy to report that these are both very comfortable and I no longer experience any tailbone pain after an extended ride. I have one with a full cutout, and another that has a smaller cutout up the middle. They both perform as advertised and smooth out the ride considerably.