The chainring of my TSDZ2 wobbles. Is that normal?

Busse Woods

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USA
I noticed that the chainring of my TDDZ2 wobbles. Same as shown in the link below. That is not my bike in the video. The motor has just over a year of use. I have another bike that has a new motor and it also appears to have some wobble. The bottom bracket nuts and everything else are tight. Is this normal? If not what is the solution?

 
Get a nice long 5mm hex wrench and lock down the chainring bolts. Then make sure the 4mm spider bolds are solid. If the whole motor moving or just the ring? If the whole motor moves then you need to shim thru the bottom bracket, then put lock tight on the lockring. Lock tight when you tighten each part really works. Don't skimp on it.
 
Thanks, PedalUma. Only the chainring moves, the motor itself is solid. The 5mm and 4mm bolts are tight. Like I said I have another bike with a new motor and it pretty much does the same thing. Not as bad as the attached video though. My TSDZ2 appears to work fine even with this play. It's possible that the play has been there all the time but I only noticed it recently.

The play appears to be internal to the motor I'm thinking main gear, sprag clutch or the main shaft is probably causing this play. I have read in other forums that this play may be normal for TSDZ2, although it does seem like cause for concern. I'm wondering if other users of TSDZ2 may have noticed the same thing? I also wonder if Bafang motors have this play. On my non electric road bike the chainring is solid as a rock.
 
Thanks, PedalUma. Only the chainring moves, the motor itself is solid. The 5mm and 4mm bolts are tight. Like I said I have another bike with a new motor and it pretty much does the same thing. Not as bad as the attached video though. My TSDZ2 appears to work fine even with this play. It's possible that the play has been there all the time but I only noticed it recently.

The play appears to be internal to the motor I'm thinking main gear, sprag clutch or the main shaft is probably causing this play. I have read in other forums that this play may be normal for TSDZ2, although it does seem like cause for concern. I'm wondering if other users of TSDZ2 may have noticed the same thing? I also wonder if Bafang motors have this play. On my non electric road bike the chainring is solid as a rock.
I could not view the video. About 4mm of play is normal for the TSDZ2. The TSDZ2B version has less play. And no, it is not a problem to ride or a defect. Work on pedaling technique by watching a video or two on 'How to Pedal Like a Pro.' If you focus on evenly, lightly, and quickly pedaling while pulling back and up, this will best distribute the load - Vs. pounding down, left & right. Grippy platform pedals help. If you want to know who is saying this you can look me up with reviews on Google Maps.
PedalUma eBikes.
 
4mm of play in the chainring/shaft is normal????? That's BS! Who are you kidding? This wobble issue is very disappointing. It even occurs on new TSDZ2 motors. Buyer beware!
 
The chainring on my TSDZ2 wobbles </=2mm, the chainring on my Yamaha PW-SE wobbles </=1mm. Not a concern to me. At least for the Tongsheng it should still be easy to source a replacement part, if needed, vs Yamaha which doesn't market replacement parts.
 
Thanks EMGX for providing some useful information. The wobble is enough so that the chain ring is scraping the plastic cover of the main gear. I will move the chainring away from the motor but that will make my chainline worse. When I pedal I can see my chain bouncing side to side quite a bit. This even happens with the brand new TSDZ2 that I purchased last fall. It's rather disappointing as in most non electric bikes have no wobble at all. I'm willing to repair my motor but seeing that a new motor has the same issue I'm not sure new parts will make any difference. I added a Enduro Max 6902 LLU MAX C-3 bearing on the drive side of the motor to see if that helps but my initial thoiught is that it won't be all that much better.
 
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Maybe inconsistent quality control?

Also have two of them, one with 2mm wobble, the other with 1mm at most, same as the Yamaha.
The one with 1mm does have some minor scraping of the cover plastic in one spot but that's due to the aftermarket direct attachment 34t chainring.

IMG_20230609_100426410.jpg

Not currently installed because I'm riding non-assist bikes for the most part. I just can't get over the extra weight of ebikes, 40# vs 29# for the same bike with a front derailleur, triple chainring and cartridge instead of the tsdz2.

If mine had excessive wobble I'd remove the cover to see where it originated. If you have the older tsdz2 like mine, rather than the newer tsdz2"B", a replacement large gear including sprag clutch is only $35 plus shipping on ebay.
 
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Yes but that extra 11 lbs makes me feel like superman :) . Thanks! I have the older version. I'm considering a replacement for the large gear and clutch assembly but am concerned about how I will remove the gear assembly from the shaft. I may need a special tool? At the moment the added bearing on the drive side appears to be helping, I will just keep an eye on it for now.
 
I've removed/replaced the large gear with a solid one (without the sprag clutch) to make it coaster brake compatible (subsequently returned to stock). No special tool was necessary.
I might be misremembering it but there might be spacer shims on the gear shaft(?) Maybe those with wobble are missing them?
 
The 'B' version is much nicer.
This is not OP's problem, but somewhat related. On most of the non-'B' versions, the factory did not tighten the ring bolts as much as they could have.
A couple of years ago a guy became irate at the +-2mm wobble. Like I am at fault. I had to document that it is normal. That did not make him happier. I have noticed that is most often seen on the bikes of cyclists who don't like to downshift and spin.
 
The wobble also occurs with brand new units. So rider usage is not the issue. I doubt most riders are abusing the units even if they don't "spin" correctly. Hopefully the B version is better.
 
The ' B' is better. See any video on "how to pedal, like a pro" All problems will be solved
 
Could the spider or chaunring itself be out of true" Heck if the chain didnt come off I wouldnt worry about it,there is a good deal of lateral force on those components especially with a heavy rider.
 
Thanks, but I believe its a common problem even with brand new units. I can understand a small amount of wobble, but enough to actually cause a chainring or spider to scrape the plastic housing is disappointing. The play appears to be coming from the main gear and shaft connection.
 
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Thanks, but I believe its a common problem even with brand new units. I can understand a small amount of wobble, but enough to actually cause a chainring or spider to scrape the plastic housing is disappointing. The play appears to be coming from the main gear and shaft connection.
All parts are made to be within a certain tolerance (machining metal with precise, exact sameness from one piece to the next is virtually impossible because the machine tools wear down or move a miniscule amount). So let's say two parts have to fit together, and the machining causes both to be on the high side (slightly larger than 'perfection'); they will fit together very tightly, with no slop whatsoever. But if the opposite occurs and both parts are on the low side, there will be a lot of slop. On average, most parts will fall close to the middle, so when they are mounted against each other there will be a very small bit of room but not enough to really notice.

The amount of the tolerance (and the quality control) will depend on the company. Sometimes a part that's outside of spec won't be caught and tossed, and they'll ship it for assembly anyway. If both parts are on the high side, they won't even fit against each other. On the low side, yikes the slop! But chances are, both won't be out of tolerance on the low side, although one part could be.

I guess the question in your case is, does the slop allow so much wiggle that it binds or throws the chain? If not, then at worst it might cause sidebar wear on the chain at a somewhat faster rate than normal, but other than buying a replacement chain a little more often there's no downside for riding. You could always buy parts to rebuild the assembly, though, and hope you get some from a different batch that will fit more tightly.

My chain ring deflects less than a millimeter under pressure, and there's no detectable "wiggle" in the shaft area. I guess I got a tight set.
 
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