solidol
New Member
How does it fit the rack? Can you post few pictures? Thanks
SuperCommuter Mods
- Thread starter GuruUno
- Start date
How does it fit the rack? Can you post few pictures? Thanks
chriskmee
Active Member
I think it fits perfectly, really my only complaint is that it doesn't have the fancy quick release system like the ones you are looking at. It has two clips that go over the bar, and a Velcro strap at the bottom. I usually just clip it in and don't bother with the strap, haven't had any problems yet. Since I have big feet I clip the bags on as far back as they will go so I don't hit them when I pedal.
Ill take some better pictures tonight, but for now you can look at the one I posted here, bags were basically empty in this picture.
chriskmee
Active Member
Figured I would post all the mods. Please note the bike rack pictures are older than others. Also I was right about the weight limit of 33 lbs for the rack.
Mods/equipment:
Kuat NV 2.0 (With a strap on the front wheel I made the bike very secure even with the fender installed. This picture was before I got the strap so the front fender is off).
Kinect Bodyfloat 2.1
Topeak wedge bag (bent the cardboard like backbone so it would fit better)
ABUS 5750L frame lock
Topeak Modula Cage II (bottle cage)
Crankbrothers Stamp 7 Large (pedal)
GUB phone mount
Bontrager Shopper Large saddle bag (2x).
GoPro
I also got some other stuff not pictured, such as an abus folding lock, a bike stand, and I just ordered a Juiced Bikes Horn / Bike Alarm
solidol
New Member
Thanks for sharing, this is helpful. Curious about your front axle, is it oem? What model year is your bike? That front fork doesn't look like mine, that's when looking at how the thru-axle is installed.
chriskmee
Active Member
I bought my bike brand new a few months ago, so pretty sure my bike is a 2018. The thru axle is stock, and it looks the same as the one in your photo to me. Here is a close-up of the front thru axle.
solidol
New Member
Are you sure yours is not 2019? Mine is 2018 too (I think) and had different thru-axle, with quick-release like turn handle. I since installed pinhead lock. But I was curious when you posted how yours looks because it looks like there is a recess/seat in your fork. But maybe not and it's flat just like mine but with different head only. Interesting.
chriskmee
Active Member
I know I bought the bike in June this year and it was just in stock at the Trek warehouse. Trek told me when they would have new stock at the warehouse, so I backordered one from my local dealer. I also found my liability agreement and it lists it as a 2018 model.
Court reviewed a 2017 model according to his review, and it had the quick release front, so I think you have a 2017. I know the 2017 was $5k and the 2018/19 is $5200, so if you paid $5k new and had the quick release, it's a 2017.
Mine does seem to have a sight recess in the fork (a bit hard to see in photos, but the grease residue helps)
Court reviewed a 2017 model according to his review, and it had the quick release front, so I think you have a 2017. I know the 2017 was $5k and the 2018/19 is $5200, so if you paid $5k new and had the quick release, it's a 2017.
Mine does seem to have a sight recess in the fork (a bit hard to see in photos, but the grease residue helps)
solidol
New Member
Looks like mine may be 2017. I did get it for 4k, it was new with 2 miles on the odo. Looking at your fork, however, I think they are the same. 2018 just used different axle design. Either way glad we figured it out
I did receive my larger panniers today, fit well and just large enough for what I need. Love the gray too. These are https://ortliebusa.com/product/back-roller-classic-pair
solidol
New Member
If I could change one thing on this bike it would most definitely be pedals. Not sure what Trek had in mind (except cost savings) but using cheap, small and uncomfortable pedals doesn't match overall bike's build quality (and it's pricetag). Put a set of Stamps from Crank Brothers ((Link Removed - No Longer Exists)) and as expected it transformed the feel and usability.
Put about 500 miles on the bike and it's been great. Definitely planning to install floating stem and seat posts, but later. One thing I noticed under hard braking there is a bit of creaking noise coming from either front fork or maybe brakes actually, not sure, need more seat time to id the source.
Put about 500 miles on the bike and it's been great. Definitely planning to install floating stem and seat posts, but later. One thing I noticed under hard braking there is a bit of creaking noise coming from either front fork or maybe brakes actually, not sure, need more seat time to id the source.
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chriskmee
Active Member
Yeah, I think that was one of the first things I changed on the bike, especially since I wear size 14 shoes. I love the Crank 7 Large I have on mine now, although I have learned that you do need to be careful with them. Since they are so big, pedal strike is more likely if you aren't careful. I actually had to replace a couple of the pins because I wasn't paying attention and scraped the pedal against the ground.
The pedal also gave me a pretty gnarly cut on the back of my leg which is likely going to be a permanent scar. I was standing over the top tube getting ready to go for a ride, I walked the bike forward a bit and the pedal hit the back of my leg. instinct said that if something is stabbing you from the back, go forward, which only dug the pedal deeper into my leg. I ended up with a 4.5" cut on the back of my leg, the width of one of those pins, and deep enough to embed hair follicles and skin into the pin. I have since reduced the height of all the pins and been more careful.
solidol
New Member
I use this bike with regular shoes and set pin height to something like 1/32", they grip very well given the number of pins and their position/distribution over the pedal surface.
solidol
New Member
Does anyone know where to find full and details specs for the bike? trek.com spec section is lacking a lot of details.
E.g. Crank - Miranda Delta, 20T w/chainguard; but it doesn't specify things like interface type (ISIS), length etc. OEM specs: https://mirandabikeparts.com/en/products/ebike-parts/delta-0/
And options: https://mirandabikeparts.com/en/shop/e-bike/delta not clear which Q-Factor or length (can measure though) to go with.
E.g. Crank - Miranda Delta, 20T w/chainguard; but it doesn't specify things like interface type (ISIS), length etc. OEM specs: https://mirandabikeparts.com/en/products/ebike-parts/delta-0/
And options: https://mirandabikeparts.com/en/shop/e-bike/delta not clear which Q-Factor or length (can measure though) to go with.
You could call Trek with the serial number to find out the manufactured date. I purchased a new Trek XM700 in 2017 and it was manufactured in 2014!
bob armani
Well-Known Member
Wow that is surprising. Thanks for the heads up on the date of mfg. I would expect to get something a bit newer than 2014 on a recent purchase!
solidol
New Member
Ok just FYI if anyone would ever need it - crank arms come with Q factor 16.
solidol
New Member
New crank arms ($65 for a set) showed up at the dealer last Fri and I had time to replace my bent one. Stamping on new arms (right) is different than on original ones (left), they are the same spec arms and fit well though - M size frame comes with 170mm arms with Q factor 16.
My left crank arm bolt was not torqued to spec, it was halfway there; tq specs are stamped on the bolt. Don't remember about the right side as I removed it before to inspect the splines since that's the side that took the hit.
Luckily, arms are strong and stiff just enough for the normal OP but soft enough to bend and protect main PU shaft etc. If anyone interested Park Tool CWP-7 crank puller is an amazing little tool.
Finally installed bodyfloat and can't be any happier. It should come with the bike, especially given the bikes price.
I put around 1k miles on the bike over the last 3 months and been pretty happy with it.
My left crank arm bolt was not torqued to spec, it was halfway there; tq specs are stamped on the bolt. Don't remember about the right side as I removed it before to inspect the splines since that's the side that took the hit.
Luckily, arms are strong and stiff just enough for the normal OP but soft enough to bend and protect main PU shaft etc. If anyone interested Park Tool CWP-7 crank puller is an amazing little tool.
Finally installed bodyfloat and can't be any happier. It should come with the bike, especially given the bikes price.
I put around 1k miles on the bike over the last 3 months and been pretty happy with it.
solidol
New Member
I started to have the chain jumping out of the front sprocket. When it happened for the first time I have attributed it to chain slap as I leaned into the corner much and was on power pretty much right after. It got jammed between the sprocket and the chain guard and managed to chip chainstay a bit (it was a bummer, I didn't have chainstay skin). Since that I had the same thing happen again, which I again attributed to being in the highest gear, going fast and hitting some rough surface on the road. Today, it happened twice on the way to work, but the first time it was on the smooth road, chain in the middle of the cassette (no crazy chain angle etc)
I have no explanation for this except stretched chain. I have just over 1k miles on the bike and not something I was expecting to go weak in such a short time. When did you have to replace your chain and what type of riding do you do? I'm thinking about going with KMC chain, just not sure which one fits SC.
I have no explanation for this except stretched chain. I have just over 1k miles on the bike and not something I was expecting to go weak in such a short time. When did you have to replace your chain and what type of riding do you do? I'm thinking about going with KMC chain, just not sure which one fits SC.
chriskmee
Active Member
You can buy a pretty cheap and simple tool to measure chain stretch, I would start with that. An 11 speed chain like on the Supercommuter handles less stretch than something like an 8 speed chain. I think for an 11 speed chain a general rule is to replace at .5% as measured by a tool. This is the tool I use.
Unfortunately, with an e-bike, the chain gets more wear due to the extra torque, so you might have worn it out already.
Unfortunately, with an e-bike, the chain gets more wear due to the extra torque, so you might have worn it out already.
solidol
New Member
Will be back home tomorrow and will measure the stretch level. I also grabbed KMC X11 EPT 11SP 116 Links Chain.
