Sub $3000 Leisure/Commuter Bike For Hilly Area [Final Choice: Priority Current]

Here are some of my thoughts from this week:

The effort to maintain 28mph depends heavily on terrain/wind. I finally found the best place to test the bike's top speed for longer periods of time - a bike track in a park. There, I didn't have to worry about pedestrians/animals and could set it to gear 5 and PAS 5 to see how it looked like. As I mentioned before, I could reach/maintain 28mph while spinning the pedals in the 95-100 RPM range. It is definitely a fast pace, but felt comfortable most of the time. The speed felt like an appropriate reward for the amount of effort made. However, different scenarios led to vastly different experiences. Even in the track, when going against the wind I had a hard time breaking 25mph. Going the other way was, literally, a breeze. Similarly, on slight downhills it was very easy to reach 28 mph, while in slight uphills, I seemed to be stuck around 24-25mph.

The brake cable is scratching the front of the bike. This is a silly comment, but just something that I happened to realize. Last week I noticed some scratching on the front of the bike. I didn't immediately realize what it was. I was a bit disappointed in myself for having scratched the bike this early in my ownership, but didn't know what it could have happened. Later, I noticed it was getting worse - then, it dawned on me. With the way the front brake cable is clipped to the side of the bike, it rubs against the frame as I turn. I didn't know it could do such damage! As a solution, I will add some clear tape to protect the high contact area.

View attachment 77421

Battery readings are confusing. This part might be common to all ebikes. However, since this is the only one I own, I'm gonna talk about my experience. Today I went on a short 6 mile roundtrip ride. The first leg consists of mostly downhill - about 120 ft of elevation gain, 300 ft of elevation loss. The return is a bit tougher - there's about a mile on a 10% hill. So far I had only tackled hills (even steeper ones) spawning one or two blocks. This was my first chance to test the performance over a longer stretch. I started the ride with 5 bars. By the end of the first leg, I had 4 bars. Not bad, but expected, since it was mostly downhill. The bike handled the return beautifully - I didn't want to risk running out of leg halfway uphill, so I cranked the motor up to 5 during that 1 mile stretch. When the climb ended, my display still read 4 bars. I thought: wow, this is much better than expected! I reduced power back to 1 and rode for another minute or two. When I looked again, I had only 1 bar left! I guess this is the voltage sag from the load applied during the climb. I just didn't expect it to kick in only after the climb was over. Another minute of riding and I was back to two bars. I rode on flat for another 10 minutes on 2 bars, until I stopped for a drink. When I powered the bike back again, I was at 3 bars! Another five minutes of riding and I was back to 2. Now, I understand that there is variation due to the load, but this was kind of stressful. I didn't know whether I should pack it up and go home charge the bike (1 bar), or if I still had plenty of battery left (3 bars) and what number to trust.

Bonus photo from said ride:
View attachment 77422

The battery bar graphs are terrible at best. One thing though, is that there is a possibility some of that erratic behavior might go away after the battery gets a few charges through it. It's not too unusual for them to show sag under a big load, only to return to normal afterward, but it would be a bit unusual (in my experience) for that sag to show up AFTER the fact.

In any case, you'll get used to it as you get some time on it, the same as you would with a crummy gas gauge in a car.
 
Here are some of my thoughts from this week:

The effort to maintain 28mph depends heavily on terrain/wind. I finally found the best place to test the bike's top speed for longer periods of time - a bike track in a park. There, I didn't have to worry about pedestrians/animals and could set it to gear 5 and PAS 5 to see how it looked like. As I mentioned before, I could reach/maintain 28mph while spinning the pedals in the 95-100 RPM range. It is definitely a fast pace, but felt comfortable most of the time. The speed felt like an appropriate reward for the amount of effort made. However, different scenarios led to vastly different experiences. Even in the track, when going against the wind I had a hard time breaking 25mph. Going the other way was, literally, a breeze. Similarly, on slight downhills it was very easy to reach 28 mph, while in slight uphills, I seemed to be stuck around 24-25mph.

The brake cable is scratching the front of the bike. This is a silly comment, but just something that I happened to realize. Last week I noticed some scratching on the front of the bike. I didn't immediately realize what it was. I was a bit disappointed in myself for having scratched the bike this early in my ownership, but didn't know what it could have happened. Later, I noticed it was getting worse - then, it dawned on me. With the way the front brake cable is clipped to the side of the bike, it rubs against the frame as I turn. I didn't know it could do such damage! As a solution, I will add some clear tape to protect the high contact area.

View attachment 77421

Battery readings are confusing. This part might be common to all ebikes. However, since this is the only one I own, I'm gonna talk about my experience. Today I went on a short 6 mile roundtrip ride. The first leg consists of mostly downhill - about 120 ft of elevation gain, 300 ft of elevation loss. The return is a bit tougher - there's about a mile on a 10% hill. So far I had only tackled hills (even steeper ones) spawning one or two blocks. This was my first chance to test the performance over a longer stretch. I started the ride with 5 bars. By the end of the first leg, I had 4 bars. Not bad, but expected, since it was mostly downhill. The bike handled the return beautifully - I didn't want to risk running out of leg halfway uphill, so I cranked the motor up to 5 during that 1 mile stretch. When the climb ended, my display still read 4 bars. I thought: wow, this is much better than expected! I reduced power back to 1 and rode for another minute or two. When I looked again, I had only 1 bar left! I guess this is the voltage sag from the load applied during the climb. I just didn't expect it to kick in only after the climb was over. Another minute of riding and I was back to two bars. I rode on flat for another 10 minutes on 2 bars, until I stopped for a drink. When I powered the bike back again, I was at 3 bars! Another five minutes of riding and I was back to 2. Now, I understand that there is variation due to the load, but this was kind of stressful. I didn't know whether I should pack it up and go home charge the bike (1 bar), or if I still had plenty of battery left (3 bars) and what number to trust.

Bonus photo from said ride:
View attachment 77422
The brake cable is scratching the front of the bike. This is a silly comment, but just something that I happened to realize. Last week I noticed some scratching on the front of the bike. I didn't immediately realize what it was. I was a bit disappointed in myself for having scratched the bike this early in my ownership, but didn't know what it could have happened. Later, I noticed it was getting worse - then, it dawned on me. With the way the front brake cable is clipped to the side of the bike, it rubs against the frame as I turn. I didn't know it could do such damage! As a solution, I will add some clear tape to protect the high contact area

I had the same problem with the brake cable, it was too short when I raised the handlebars. I took the bike apart and rerouted the cable.
 
The Ride1Up LMT'D model you have not totally eliminated? You might want to also wait a short time, as Ride1Up is expected to announce soon(as soon as early this month) a brand new mid-motor Ride1Up model that will be fairly light(under 50 pounds with battery) & Class 3 top speed will similar range as LMT'D. The expected price of $2100-2200. That's what the Ride1Up owner Kevin Dugger is saying is coming very soon.

That 10% grade hills you are climbing it's for how long? When I was testing out a e-bike awhile back on a commuter bike with Bosch Performance Line CX motor(2nd generation), riding up a hill probably closer to 15% grade for about maybe a little less than half a KM it's was fairly smooth up for me(not too hard). It's never going to be almost effortless like a car or motorcycle(& you need to do some pedaling in a lower gear).
The new Ride1Up will not be available until August 2021
 
200 mile update

I tried the alternative firmware. For those who don't know, Priority has an alternative firmware for the Current's controller. The original firmware was developed to be as smooth as possible (their words), and probably for flatter cities (my words). It modulates power delivery at lower speeds so that the bike isn't jerky and doesn't 'take off from under you' as many cadence sensing bikes do (or those with poorly tuned torque sensors). However, if you're like me and need to climb steep hills often, you likely do so at lower speeds. In these situations, the smoothness gets in the way of having more much needed power. As a result, Priority tweaked it a bit and put together a configuration that tries to deliver more power at lower speeds, without compromising too much of the smoothness. The update process was easy - they ship you a cable, you plug it into the bike and your computer, and they do the update for you through remote access. The changes are noticeable immediately after, especially at high PAS levels, but after riding for a few days, you get used to it. It becomes the new normal.
Here are the two situations where the alternative firmware was most noticeable:​
  • Gaining speed from a full stop: Before, it used to take a bit more effort to gain speed after a stop light. Especially at higher PAS (e.g. 4, 5), I now get to 10-15mph from a full stop very quickly. I don't care that much for quick acceleration, but the other implication is that it's easier to get started if I stop on an incline. Previously, although the motor would engage quickly, it felt like I needed a few extra revolutions to get the full assistance at a given level. Now, it feels like this assistance comes sooner. With the exception of the incline situation (which is better!), neither is necessarily better or worse for me. The prior experience felt very natural and very much like a conventional bike, which some users appreciate, some don't. At lower PAS (1,2) it still feels very natural and I mostly ride my bike at those levels, when I'm not going uphill. A few days after the change, it has become the new normal. Except for the higher levels, the bike still feels very smooth.

  • Climbing: This one is noticeably better. I feel like I gained a power level or a gear, compared to the previous setting. I tested several times on the 14.5% hill next to my house - before, I used to climb it at either PAS 5 gear 2, or PAS 4 gear 1. Now, I'm able to climb it on PAS 5 gear 3 @10mph, PAS 4 gear 2 @ 8mph, or PAS 3 gear 1 @ 6mph. The 17.5% hill I could only climb at PAS 5 gear 1, with considerable effort, now can be climbed at PAS 5 gear 2 with some effort. The 19.5% hill I couldn't climb, now can be climbed at PAS 5 gear 1 (granted, only a block's worth and I get tired, but that's enough!).
Minor gripes:​
  • Motor cutoff delay becomes more noticeable (at high PAS). In one of my attempts, I was climbing the 20% hill at full power (but slowly) and decided to stop. I quickly braked and put both feet on the ground. The bike probably jumped forward a foot after that, since there is a small delay in power cutoff when you stop pressing the pedals. It was there before, but it's more noticeable when you have more power at low speeds. At higher speeds it's not really noticeable since it takes a while for you to reach a full stop anyway.

  • If I'm on flat at PAS 5 I need to be careful not to rest my foot too hard on the pedal. It jumped forward a bit a few times. Also something that existed before, but is more accentuated now that there is more power from a stop.
Bottom line: I don't think the alternative firmware is necessary for everyone. The original firmware makes it feel more like at regular bike at times. However, for my use case where I have these big hills everywhere I got, it was definitely an upgrade.​

For the first time I tested the range of a full battery. I regret not having done this before the update, as I have no basis for comparison. After fully charging the battery, I wanted to know what is the longest I could ride in a real world setting before running out of power. Here's what the scenario looked like:
  • I was doing my regular leisure rides. No specific routes, just going around my day as usual (parks, beaches, occasional errands).
  • These are usually slower rides, I probably average 12mph.
  • Most of the ride is pretty flat (at most 7% grade). I did occasionally go up the bigger (15%+) hills.
  • I was trying to get some exercise, so the power distribution was: 60% of the time at PAS 1 (up to 5% inclines), 30% at PAS 2 (when I was tired or 5-10% inclines), 10% of less in PAS 5 (when I had to climb 10%+ hills and wanted to get it over with quickly).
In these conditions, I was able to ride for 55 miles before running out of battery. My impressions of this experience were the following:​
  • I don't think I can get more than this. These are slow rides, where I expect to contribute a lot of leg power. When I return to in-person work, in a commute scenario my range will be significantly lower. I will have longer uphill stretches and won't feel like riding at PAS 1 at 7pm after a long day of work. I'll probably keep it at PAS 3 most of the time, so I expect dramatically different range. I have short commute, so this doesn't matter much.
  • A 60+ mile range in a flat city (e.g. NYC) exclusively at PAS 1 is definitely possible. Now, I don't think PAS 1 counts as comfortable. In many terrains, it barely offsets the weight of the bike. Fit people on lightweight road bikes absolutely smoke me when I'm at level 1. So do people on 250W front hub city rental bikes. It is still a great way to get some exercise.
  • The experience of running out of battery is actually interesting. Power delivery remains fairly consistent even when the battery is low. I managed to squeeze a little over 7 miles off the last bar (out of 10) of battery, which makes me concerned for how accurate battery readings really are. When you're very close to zero, the last remaining bar starts to flash, giving you a few minutes to plan a backup strategy. After a few more blocks, the motor shuts off. It is smart enough however, to cut off power to the motor, but leave enough to keep the lights and display on, which I appreciated.
  • A dead battery will fully charge in about 3 hours with the supplied charger.
The only major gripe I have with the bike, which I mentioned in the past, are the battery readings. To be clear, this has nothing to do with the update. I also don't have other e-bikes to compare it to. For some time, no matter how much I charge it, the bike always starts with 9 bars. I probably only ever got 10 bars on the display during the first week. Second, and this seems to be more accentuated when the bike has < 50% battery left, battery readings jump a lot as you cycle through power levels. One day this week, I left for a short ride with 4 bars. I set it to PAS 5 and climbed two blocks of steep hills (probably 5ish minutes). The battery meter dropped to 1 bar. I rode for another half hour at PAS 5 in a mix of flat roads and smaller inclines, and that single bar remained steady. It is really hard to tell how much battery is left. This is further confirmed by the fact that I got almost 8 miles out of the last remaining bar on my bike today (different charge).

Lastly, here's a funny story so we can all laugh at how much of a bike noob I am. When I was a kid, I used to brake primarily with the rear brakes. This was due to the fear instilled in me by my parents, that one day I would be going down a steep hill, brake with the front brakes, and fly over the handlebars. I remained like this for a long time, since I never really questioned this advice. With this heavier, faster bike, I decided to finally start braking correctly and use both brakes simultaneously. In the first few days, I noticed I was veering slightly left every time I would use the brakes. This got me worried, of course - is something wrong with my bike already? Well, turns out that either because my left arm is ever so slightly shorter than my right, or because it is used to just resting on the handlebar instead of, now, reaching for the brakes, every time I had to squeeze with both hands, I ended up slightly steering left. I felt very stupid when I realized that, but also reassured that everything was fine :)

Bike tax for the long post

20210206_115815.jpg
 
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Range Test​

Recently I have been exploring the different kinds of range I get with the bike, while riding at different settings. As I mentioned in the last post, the test I did was at a very light, leisure pace, averaging 10mph. This is meant to enjoy the scenery but also to get some exercise in! In PAS 1, primarily, you get some assist, but the bike still feels very heavy at times, especially when you transition to any kind of incline. But leisure is only half of why I bought this bike and isn't fully representative of all of the use cases I need it for. The other primary use case is commuting.

When commuting, two things fundamentally change. First, I don't want to take my sweet time going through traffic. I want to get from point A to point B as quickly as possible, while still staying safe. This means that a 10mph average speed won't cut it anymore. The second very important aspect is effort - when I am biking home in the dark, after a long day at work, I don't want to exercise - I want to cruise quickly and get home. For this application, I've determined that PAS 3 is ideal. With PAS 3 the bike still feels very natural, but everything becomes effortless. I can sustain 20mph speeds with little effort, gaining speeds from a stop becomes an easy task, and I use mostly gears 4 and 5, as opposed to 3 and 4 when using PAS 1-2.

I decided to do range tests at different power levels. I started with a full battery and rode until the motor shut off. At some levels, this meant the test was split in multiple days without a charge in between, which is fine. For all tests I maintained roughly the same overall route, so there's no significant terrain change between tests. A couple caveats: somewhere along the way I added some accessories (rack, lock, water bottle) that add weight to the bike. This might cause a difference in range, but I cannot control for that. Also, some days/rides were really windy, whereas some were very calm. I can't control that either, so take the range results with a grain of salt. Without further ado, here are the results:

Test 1​

Power profile: 65% PAS 1, 30% PAS 2, 5% PAS 5
Avg speed: ~10mph, 10-20 on flats and descends, 5-10 on climbs
Obs: No additional accessories
Range: 55 miles

Test 2​

Power profile: 40% PAS 1, 55% PAS 2, 5% PAS 5
AVG speed: ~10mph (but easier on the legs)
Obs: No additional accessories
Range: 50 miles

Test 3​

Power profile: 100% PAS 3
AVG speed: ~15mph, ~20mph on flat stretches with no effort, climbing at a minimum of 10mph
Obs: Rack, lock, bottle - one windy day, one regular
Range: 32 miles

Test 4​

Power profile: 100% PAS 5
AVG speed: 20mph, ~24mph+ on flat stretches with no effort, effortless climbing of smaller inclines
Obs: Rack, lock, bottle - very windy day
Range: 17 miles but true PAS 5 power started to decline around mile 12. At around mile 15 it felt more like PAS 3, around the last mile, it felt like PAS 1 or below.

Test 5​

Power profile: 100% PAS 1
AVG speed: ~8mph
Obs: Rack, lock, bottle - mix of windy and regular days. 100% PAS 1 is definitely annoying if you're not riding on mostly flat terrain. It's great if you want to get some exercise!
Range: 60 miles

A few takeaways:
  • It is definitely not worth trying to squeeze every last bit of battery. A mixed mode ride will leave enough range for most rides.
  • Battery readings continue to be inconsistent. Even in rides where I kept the exact same power level through the entire duration of the battery, some bars lasted 5 miles and others lasted 1.
  • The last battery bar always lasts longer. Power also decreases on the last bar. Whether that's intentional or not, I actually like it. Power is reduced and range is somewhat extended when you're at very low battery.
  • At PAS 5, I got higher range than I expected, but power significantly decreased during the last 5 miles, so I'm not sure it really counts. It is expected that when battery is lower, the bike cannot maintain the high output it needs for high PAS.
As usual, a picture to make up for the long post. This is the bike in grocery getter mode.
20210224_153903_3.jpg
 

Range Test​

Recently I have been exploring the different kinds of range I get with the bike, while riding at different settings. As I mentioned in the last post, the test I did was at a very light, leisure pace, averaging 10mph. This is meant to enjoy the scenery but also to get some exercise in! In PAS 1, primarily, you get some assist, but the bike still feels very heavy at times, especially when you transition to any kind of incline. But leisure is only half of why I bought this bike and isn't fully representative of all of the use cases I need it for. The other primary use case is commuting.

When commuting, two things fundamentally change. First, I don't want to take my sweet time going through traffic. I want to get from point A to point B as quickly as possible, while still staying safe. This means that a 10mph average speed won't cut it anymore. The second very important aspect is effort - when I am biking home in the dark, after a long day at work, I don't want to exercise - I want to cruise quickly and get home. For this application, I've determined that PAS 3 is ideal. With PAS 3 the bike still feels very natural, but everything becomes effortless. I can sustain 20mph speeds with little effort, gaining speeds from a stop becomes an easy task, and I use mostly gears 4 and 5, as opposed to 3 and 4 when using PAS 1-2.

I decided to do range tests at different power levels. I started with a full battery and rode until the motor shut off. At some levels, this meant the test was split in multiple days without a charge in between, which is fine. For all tests I maintained roughly the same overall route, so there's no significant terrain change between tests. A couple caveats: somewhere along the way I added some accessories (rack, lock, water bottle) that add weight to the bike. This might cause a difference in range, but I cannot control for that. Also, some days/rides were really windy, whereas some were very calm. I can't control that either, so take the range results with a grain of salt. Without further ado, here are the results:

Test 1​

Power profile: 65% PAS 1, 30% PAS 2, 5% PAS 5
Avg speed: ~10mph, 10-20 on flats and descends, 5-10 on climbs
Obs: No additional accessories
Range: 55 miles

Test 2​

Power profile: 40% PAS 1, 55% PAS 2, 5% PAS 5
AVG speed: ~10mph (but easier on the legs)
Obs: No additional accessories
Range: 50 miles

Test 3​

Power profile: 100% PAS 3
AVG speed: ~15mph, ~20mph on flat stretches with no effort, climbing at a minimum of 10mph
Obs: Rack, lock, bottle - one windy day, one regular
Range: 32 miles

Test 4​

Power profile: 100% PAS 5
AVG speed: 20mph, ~24mph+ on flat stretches with no effort, effortless climbing of smaller inclines
Obs: Rack, lock, bottle - very windy day
Range: 17 miles but true PAS 5 power started to decline around mile 12. At around mile 15 it felt more like PAS 3, around the last mile, it felt like PAS 1 or below.

Test 5​

Power profile: 100% PAS 1
AVG speed: ~8mph
Obs: Rack, lock, bottle - mix of windy and regular days. 100% PAS 1 is definitely annoying if you're not riding on mostly flat terrain. It's great if you want to get some exercise!
Range: 60 miles

A few takeaways:
  • It is definitely not worth trying to squeeze every last bit of battery. A mixed mode ride will leave enough range for most rides.
  • Battery readings continue to be inconsistent. Even in rides where I kept the exact same power level through the entire duration of the battery, some bars lasted 5 miles and others lasted 1.
  • The last battery bar always lasts longer. Power also decreases on the last bar. Whether that's intentional or not, I actually like it. Power is reduced and range is somewhat extended when you're at very low battery.
  • At PAS 5, I got higher range than I expected, but power significantly decreased during the last 5 miles, so I'm not sure it really counts. It is expected that when battery is lower, the bike cannot maintain the high output it needs for high PAS.
As usual, a picture to make up for the long post. This is the bike in grocery getter mode.
View attachment 80118
Thank you for your review and all these updates. I went ahead and purchased the bike using the Costco Next discount. All your updates are so appreciated.

Ive had to choose between this bike and some Yamaha models. I liked that I could test ride those models but they didn’t have the class 3 of this bike (unless you spend $3600 which is too much). They rode beautifully though so I guess they’re my backup plan. I felt like they had a natural feeling to their ride. Would you say this one does too? I wonder if the additional torque makes it feel a bit speedier.

Also, how do you like the Foldylock for this bike. I was thinking of ordering it.

Anyway, thanks again.
 
Thank you for your review and all these updates. I went ahead and purchased the bike using the Costco Next discount. All your updates are so appreciated.

Ive had to choose between this bike and some Yamaha models. I liked that I could test ride those models but they didn’t have the class 3 of this bike (unless you spend $3600 which is too much). They rode beautifully though so I guess they’re my backup plan. I felt like they had a natural feeling to their ride. Would you say this one does too? I wonder if the additional torque makes it feel a bit speedier.

Also, how do you like the Foldylock for this bike. I was thinking of ordering it.

Anyway, thanks again.
I'm glad I've been helpful!

As you maybe have seen from some of my updates, I wouldn't make class 3 a hard requirement anymore. In my use case, in a busy city, I can hardly reach class 3 speeds, let alone maintain it. It also drains the battery very quickly. I do go over 20mph, but only occasionally for fun in empty areas or downhill, where the motor doesn't really matter.

The bike feels very natural - maybe if you crank it up to assist 4 or 5 it starts to feel snappier, but otherwise it feels mostly like a regular bike. Read my comments in a previous update about the different firmwares.

This is not the foldylock but a cheaper folding lock from Amazon. I don't have a lot of trust or strong feelings about the one I have. I noticed that I rarely leave the bike unattended, except for quick stops in busy areas, so I wanted something simple and compact to be kept on the bike at all times. I do have a heavier u-lock that I bring in the rare occasions when I anticipate a bit more risk.
 
I ride on back roads or trails. However sometimes I need to get on the main road where I want to go as fast as I can to minimize the time spent exposed to distracted drivers moving at high speeds. In those cases I crank it up to 5 and let her rip. I can get up to 25 mph on flat ground.
JKHAHA mentioned Yamaha and the price. Potential buyers should remember that unlike Yamaha and other brand name motors, my research indicates that it is unlikely an owner can find repair parts or services for the Truckrun models. It is possible however that if things go really wrong people that went through Costco may be to return the bike to the nearest Costco store.
 
I ride on back roads or trails. However sometimes I need to get on the main road where I want to go as fast as I can to minimize the time spent exposed to distracted drivers moving at high speeds. In those cases I crank it up to 5 and let her rip. I can get up to 25 mph on flat ground.
JKHAHA mentioned Yamaha and the price. Potential buyers should remember that unlike Yamaha and other brand name motors, my research indicates that it is unlikely an owner can find repair parts or services for the Truckrun models. It is possible however that if things go really wrong people that went through Costco may be to return the bike to the nearest Costco store.
Yeah, repairs will be an eternal concern for us Current owners. If something happens within the warranty period, I'm sure Priority will figure something out. However, outside of warranty period, we're on our own. There's no authorized dealer or shop with experience with this particular brand.
 
Yeah, repairs will be an eternal concern for us Current owners. If something happens within the warranty period, I'm sure Priority will figure something out. However, outside of warranty period, we're on our own. There's no authorized dealer or shop with experience with this particular brand.
Mine was delivered and assembled by Velofix. They are a mobile bike shop. My hope is they will be my bike shop and take care of the Current. 🤞
 
Yeah, repairs will be an eternal concern for us Current owners. If something happens within the warranty period, I'm sure Priority will figure something out. However, outside of warranty period, we're on our own. There's no authorized dealer or shop with experience with this particular brand.
Well, maybe no bike shop with specific knowledge of the Current, but there are certainly many bike shops familiar with the components. My Current is at the REI in Santa Monica and they seem quite capable of addressing any issues. It's getting an overall tune-up and I've asked them to specifically look at the IGH (shifting action remains stiff) and ensure that the belt is tensioned properly and those requests seemed to pose no issue.
 
Well, maybe no bike shop with specific knowledge of the Current, but there are certainly many bike shops familiar with the components. My Current is at the REI in Santa Monica and they seem quite capable of addressing any issues. It's getting an overall tune-up and I've asked them to specifically look at the IGH (shifting action remains stiff) and ensure that the belt is tensioned properly and those requests seemed to pose no issue.
I'm glad that's your experience! Here in SF, even for completely mechanic checks (no electronics!) , most bike shops don't wanna touch it with a 10 foot pole.
 
I'm glad that's your experience! Here in SF, even for completely mechanic checks (no electronics!) , most bike shops don't wanna touch it with a 10 foot pole.
No crystal ball here, but I believe that's something that's going to change quickly. Adapt to what's going on within the industry, or go by the wayside. It's not going to be long before they find themselves in a position where they can't afford to say they won't work on the electrical....
 
I've done 300 miles on my Current (Shimano) and I'm loving it despite not having ridden for 40 years and weighing 250lbs. I agree with the varing battery readouts, my regular run is a pretty flat rural setting, today using my normal PAS2 and PAS 4 for the inclines, it used 2 bars for the 10 miles, I won't recharge it and I'll do the identical run tomorrow and I bet it will show usage of 5 bars.
 
I just ordered the priority current ebike with a $700.00 discount. From what I have read here and other sources, I strongly believe I will not regret my purchase. I currently own Trek Allant+ 8s which comes with Bosch performance speed motor, a level 3 ebike. I use my bike primarily for commuting to work and leisure at trails. I requested that the priority current bike be delivered at a local bike shop who will assemble it for me and at the same time a go to shop in case I need repairs. From my conversation with founders of priority bicycles, I strongly believe owners will get perfect customer service whenever it is needed.
 
I just ordered the priority current ebike with a $700.00 discount. From what I have read here and other sources, I strongly believe I will not regret my purchase. I currently own Trek Allant+ 8s which comes with Bosch performance speed motor, a level 3 ebike. I use my bike primarily for commuting to work and leisure at trails. I requested that the priority current bike be delivered at a local bike shop who will assemble it for me and at the same time a go to shop in case I need repairs. From my conversation with founders of priority bicycles, I strongly believe owners will get perfect customer service whenever it is needed.
Their customer service has been great so far!
 
I just ordered the priority current ebike with a $700.00 discount. From what I have read here and other sources, I strongly believe I will not regret my purchase. I currently own Trek Allant+ 8s which comes with Bosch performance speed motor, a level 3 ebike. I use my bike primarily for commuting to work and leisure at trails. I requested that the priority current bike be delivered at a local bike shop who will assemble it for me and at the same time a go to shop in case I need repairs. From my conversation with founders of priority bicycles, I strongly believe owners will get perfect customer service whenever it is needed.
How did you get $700 discount? Can you share?
 
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