Stock controller replacement
- Thread starter pawtoki
- Start date
AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
If I were looking at purchasing my 3rd controller in 3000 miles, an "upgraded" controller, one I'm not going to have to replace again, would be a top priority. So I have to ask, why are you avoiding that move? You're aware there are plug and play upgraded controllers available, right?
Without something like one of these upgrade KT based systems, I'm pretty sure you aren't going to find another source for plug and play.
Without something like one of these upgrade KT based systems, I'm pretty sure you aren't going to find another source for plug and play.
Slaphappygamer
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Aptos
I agree that upgrading to a better controller would be the best choice. You've got to change them anyway. Really though, I'd hesitate, because I'm not sure if the display would handle the upgraded amperage from the new upgraded controller. This is why I would replace the existing one with a similar one.
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I think that the amps of the controller need to be less than the amps of the display? For example, my bike has a controller rated at 22a maximum and the display (KD218) is rated at 30 ma. It's my understanding that if I replace my controller with one rated at 35a, then I could blow my display. This would be my hesitation.
If I'm right, then I would just replace controller, like for like. Just to be safe. I zoomed in to a picture (of radrunner controller) on radpowerbikes site (here) and see that this has rated voltage at 48v, maximum current at 17a, rated current at 8a, low voltage protection at 39v, and the throttle adjustment voltage is 1.2v-4.4v.
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I think that the amps of the controller need to be less than the amps of the display? For example, my bike has a controller rated at 22a maximum and the display (KD218) is rated at 30 ma. It's my understanding that if I replace my controller with one rated at 35a, then I could blow my display. This would be my hesitation.
If I'm right, then I would just replace controller, like for like. Just to be safe. I zoomed in to a picture (of radrunner controller) on radpowerbikes site (here) and see that this has rated voltage at 48v, maximum current at 17a, rated current at 8a, low voltage protection at 39v, and the throttle adjustment voltage is 1.2v-4.4v.
pawtoki
Active Member
I know there are probably plug & play NON-OEM controllers out there. I just don't trust finding one myself. Rad offered me free shipping & a good reduction in price for being loyal. ~ $50 delivered for an OEM controller.
Their support has always been outstanding for me.
pawtoki
Active Member
I think you are right on. It may not harm the display since it draws only what it needs. A problem really develops when the display wants more amps than what's available.
AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
Bolton sells a kit that includes a display that's been hugely popular. I'm actually surprised you guys aren't familiar with it. Suggest you do some research on them. The biggest complaint I've seen regarding them is they can be in short supply. I've been running the same setup since before Bolton started selling the plug and play version. These are plug and play, the display put's RADs to shame, and the (KT) controller itself is pretty much state of the art (there's good reason these can be hard to get). Other bike and controller mfg's would do well to model some of the junk they are selling after them.
A bonus to the well known durability of the kit is that all restrictions built into the RAD controller are gone - unless you reinstate them. Your call. Most installing these will talk about large performance increases too. I can assure you, based on my usage of several of these, this will be a once and done fix for blown RAD controllers.
Regarding the standard display question, you would pretty much always purchase controllers and displays as a set. There is NO question regarding using a RAD display with a Bolton (KT) controller - they are NOT a match. It's nothing to do with amp or watts capacity, they use totally different inputs. Sorta like trying to substitute Ford parts for use in a Subaru.
There are numerous topics regarding this conversion here: https://electricbikereview.com/forums/forum/rad-power-bikes/
And this is the link to the kit: https://boltonebikes.com/products/radpowerkit
-Al
A bonus to the well known durability of the kit is that all restrictions built into the RAD controller are gone - unless you reinstate them. Your call. Most installing these will talk about large performance increases too. I can assure you, based on my usage of several of these, this will be a once and done fix for blown RAD controllers.
Regarding the standard display question, you would pretty much always purchase controllers and displays as a set. There is NO question regarding using a RAD display with a Bolton (KT) controller - they are NOT a match. It's nothing to do with amp or watts capacity, they use totally different inputs. Sorta like trying to substitute Ford parts for use in a Subaru.
There are numerous topics regarding this conversion here: https://electricbikereview.com/forums/forum/rad-power-bikes/
And this is the link to the kit: https://boltonebikes.com/products/radpowerkit
-Al
I think you are both confused ( not u Ahicks!)
Think Drive by Wire , when you hit the gas pedal in your car there is no fuel line under your dashboard. There is a linkage to a mechanical regulator, new cars dispense with the linkage and send a signal to a computer which tells the motor what to do.
The power goes battery - controller - motor , the LCD is separate and via serial comms tells the controller how much current to send to the motor based on settings and throttle . The LCD also receives speed info back from the controller . This is all mA low power stuff. At no point does the 48 V 750W go anywhere near the LCD . Notice how thin the display cable is 15 amps would melt it in seconds.
Hicks is correct,Bolton upgrade is a bargain, I had one on my Rad . Don’t overthink this!
Slaphappygamer
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Aptos
Ahh, thank you for shedding some light here. I noticed that the display was rated in mah and that the controller and battery were rated in amps. You just explained why they are rated differently.
Is that what Rad sells a controller for, cheap. I sold my old 15A Rad Controller and lcd on eBay for $150
pawtoki
Active Member
Discounted for repeat business. I've always had outstanding service & treatment by Rad.Is that what Rad sells a controller for, cheap. I sold my old 15A Rad Controller and lcd on eBay for $150
, but as a 40 year + EE I would be considering other possibilities after (2) failures of the same part.If you still have the bad controllers I would like them. I will reimburse for shipping. Message me.
pawtoki
Active Member
Ended up not being bad. PAS/ display switch was the problem.
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