Stiff chain link on CCS

Seorl

New Member
Hey Everyone,

I just received my new Crosscurrent S yesterday and I noticed the chain making a clicking sound. After some searching on the bike, i discovered a darker chain link that wasnt flexing correctly. I added some chain lubricant to the link and flexed it by hand a dozen times or so but it doesnt seem to be helping.

Has anyone ran into this before? Any suggestions on how to fix it?
 

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Hey Everyone,

I just received my new Crosscurrent S yesterday and I noticed the chain making a clicking sound. After some searching on the bike, i discovered a darker chain link that wasnt flexing correctly. I added some chain lubricant to the link and flexed it by hand a dozen times or so but it doesnt seem to be helping.

Has anyone ran into this before? Any suggestions on how to fix it?
http://bicycletutor.com/stiff-chain-link/
 
Yeah... I followed the directions on that site yesterday. The 'loosen by hand' section didnt help at all. I guess I need to buy a chain tool.
 
Yeah... I followed the directions on that site yesterday. The 'loosen by hand' section didnt help at all. I guess I need to buy a chain tool.
The most important part of the instruction is the flexing side to side in the direction the chain is not designed for. Go slow. Every pin of a chain can be loosened or removed, allowing easier flexing, but you don't want any too loose.
 
Alternatively you could remove the stiff link with a chain tool and install a quick link in its place. That would take 5-10 min.
 
Nice picture! I ran into that problem a few years ago on my regular bike. I believe the term is called chain suck. Caused the gears to jump on heavy peddling. Loosened by hand. Some oil. Would work for a month or two.
When I later put a midmotor on that bike, it became really bad. Got better results with a chain breaker tool, but it is a fiddly process.
41hHOxVjW5L._AC_UL160_SR160,160_.jpg


KMC and other chain makers said their chains should be joined with quick links like dunbar says. I use them now, but they are tricky to install and take off w/o the specialized tools. Might be cheaper to have the bike shop replace that link.
 
Agreeing with all the good advice already given! Below are some possibly helpful links.

That dark pin is the master pin in the CCS's KMC K99 128 link chain. I broke my CCS chain with a chain tool the other day, to take it off the frame and solvent wash it to remove the gunky factory lube that gets all pasty with the aluminum paint-like coating of the chain. It really picks up road grit.

Well, I pushed the master pin back home carefully, but that dark pin is somewhat riveted, mushroomed a bit: that's how the factory makes that special pin stay in place. The joint required a little bit of English on the chain tool to get the joint working freely again. I did not get it working perfectly freely, it was binding just a little, but it is OK enough.

Sidebar. I have long since settled on Finish Line "Dry" lube: PTFE solids and a very light synthetic oil in a hexane solvent carrier. I apply the stuff regularly and wipe the chain down frequently. I mention this sort of lube, of the many classes available, because its oil is so very thin and light that it grabs and holds less road grit; it does not make a thick pasted gunk collection of mud. And the worst of the dirt that does accumulate can be washed off with soap and water very easy and the "dry" lube reapplied. Upon re-application, the stuff (like any other liquid chain lube) will displace water and some dirt from the internal moving surfaces of the chain. Your chain will always blacken a clean rag, however. That's the nature of chain wear: the polished off micro particles of steel always look gray or black on a rag. The same principle as polishing metal, the rag darkens.

I found a video where the fellow explains a flex-fix technique on a Shimano chain similar to what we have on the CCS bikes

Here is a suitable master link to replace the master pin system. This is the common sort of master link and it is reusable.

It's easier to deal a master link with the Park version 1.2 pliers that both open and close the link.

The chain being the bike's lifeline, it is empowering to have the few simple tools needed to make the chain work, or replace it, or take it down for cleaning, etc. Here is Park's mini chain breaker. You might find it a few dollars cheaper if you shop around....
 
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Thanks everyone for the the help! I never heard back from Juiced so i decided to fix it myself. I ended up purchasing a chain tool and very carefully loosened the stiff link. It didnt take much pressure at all and the bad link immediately lost all stiffness.

I rode around a bit this weekend and all is well. Thanks again!
 
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