2020 SWIFT at day 10/mileage 264..
I originally purchased this ebike (with my $1,200 COVID 19 Stimulus Package bucks) because I wanted a “sportier” version of ebike. My two M2S Fat Tire ebikes are definitely Beasts in their own right, but they're more of a “pickup truck with oversize tires”. I also wanted a quick handling hot rod (kinda sorta) toy, too. I have been dinking around with that option for more than a year. I had 4 specific requirements: 1). it had to have regular size 26” wheels (not fat tire stuff), 2). it had to use the Reention Dorado battery (I already have 3 of those), 3). it had to be Class 3 (28mph throttle-only) and, 4). it had to be a step-thru model. In hindsight, I should have added a 5th requirement: a 750w BaFang rear hub. So, I recently stumbled across this very new 2020 SWIFT model and it met all 4 (but NOT the 5th ) of my requirements. Finally.. New Toy Time.
I now own a 2020 BikTrix SWIFT ebike (black.. 48v/14.5ah battery). I originally wanted the 17.5ah battery option, but those were on back order. I already own two 16ah and one 10.4ah Reention Dorado batteries, AND, for the difference in price between the 14.5ah and the 17.5ah units, I could get on the internet and buy another complete 17.5ah. So, I went ahead with the 14.5ah battery. Besides, I figure that the SWIFT, with a 14.5ah battery and skinny tires, will probably get more miles per charge than will either of my two M2S 750w BaFang rear hub/48v/16ah Fat Tire ebikes.
Prior to actually ordering this ebike, I got conformation from Roshan at BikTrix that a). the 14.5ah battery from this bike is the same length as the 16ah/17.5ah/21ah battery (it is) and, b). the ebike can be set to “CLASS 3” via the computer display unit (cdu) on the handlebar (it is). Believe me, the difference between 20mph throttle-only top speed and 28mph throttle-only top speed (a nearly 50% increase in speed) cannot be understated. Do you want a Subaru (20mph) or do you want a Porsche (28mph)-- for the exact same price??.. Sure, you will seldom use/need that extra 8mph, but it sure is nice to know that it is there.
I ordered my bike thru ElectriCityCycles on May 20, 2020.. They have/had a 5% discount, so the item cost $1,709 delivered. The order shipped from Canada on May 25 (Memorial day in the USA). The ebike arrived via FedEx on May 28th.
I had my way with the DOUBLE-boxed ebike container and ,within an hour, was ready to assault the ebike. Assembly was a piece of cake. The only problem was that I did NOT want the rear rack (a very nice unit) OR the fenders (I already own numerous quick-on/off seat post mounted plastic fenders). The rack was easy to remove (by the way, I now have 5 ebikes and 4 unused rear racks).
Now, on to the rear fender. Holy crap, this sucka was installed to stay installed. I thought that I would need to actually remove the dang rear wheel just to get at the topmost frame screw. I finally decided to just take my little metal-cutting saw and have my way with that dang screw. So, I did. Fender gone to “the storage pile”.
Next, I replaced the stock handlebar/adjustable stem with units that I already owned. However, doing that transformation requires this item:
Stem adapter (you want the 25.4mm to 28.6mm) :
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028N14GQ/ref=dp_cerb_2
OR, this one; https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H8N9G2Y?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image (you want the 25.4mm (to 28.6mm).
You then need a correct sized stem:
carbon fiber stem. It will work with the stem adapter shown above (31.8mm is the handlebar size required): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32846703129.html
And then the correct size handlebar:
carbon fiber handlebar (31.8mm): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32950046970.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.3e194c4dsA4tuZ
Finally, since all my ebikes use a dingle bell and a rear view mirror, a pair of bar ends on which to mount them: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002I7PRUQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .. By the way, the bar ends also serve as protectors/bumpers for the handlebar mounted computer display unit (cdu)-- in the event of the eventual crash/fall that we all deal with. Additionally, you can flip your ebike upside down to remove the rear wheel, etc. and everything mounted on your handlebar area will be protected (I just remove the mirror).
So far, I still have not even gotten around to actually turning on the cdu/ebike. Now, it is time. Where is that darn Owners Manual? Every ebike I've ever bought had at least a similance of a basic “get started” manual. Dang, I looked everywhere. I even removed the seat post to see if it was stuffed down the seat tube.. Ya never know.
Since this ebike company is located in Canada, there was a Bill of Lading attached to the shipping box. On that paper was the “contact point”, including a telephone # for Roshan at BikTrix (306) 262-1967. Go ahead, call that #. And remember that this is the telephone# Customs will use to call, if necessary. Chit fire.. On to plan “b”.
I get on the internet and find the email for BikTrix and shoot an email to [email protected] I get an immediate response: That Email Address is not Recognized.. Holy crap!! (update: it works correctly now). So, here it is Thursday at 2pm. My last option:1-866-BIK-TRIX. No one answers. It goes to Voice Mail. Leave a CallBack #?? So, I did. I'm thinking “ What if this incident had occurred over the weekend?” Can you imagine receiving your ebike on Friday afternoon and NOT being able to get the situation rectified until Monday morning??
As I await the callback, I peruse the BikTrix website and stumble across this link: https://support.biktrix.com/hc/en-us/articles/360039064292-Swift-Programming-Guide
Go ahead, click on to it. Man. I was absolutely astonished/horrified. Remember, I already own 4 other ebikes, so I have a basic idea of what to expect when programming the handlebar-mounted CDU. This crap just blew me away. But, ya gotta do what ya gotta do. This link would absolutely blow away an ebike 1st timer..
So, I commence searching for the adapter to connect my laptop to the CDU. No where to be found. Jeesus, I now have a $1,700 bill setting stagnant in my living room. No power. No instructions. What the Hey did I get myself into here??
Shortly thereafter, the phone rings. It is the lady BikTrix representative. I explain my dilemma. She then leads me to the correct link on the BikTrix website to enable me to “start 'er up”: https://support.biktrix.com/hc/en-us/articles/360035894931-Swift-Display-Quick-start-guide-500c- .. The only problem with these instructions is that you are never even told where the “on/off” and “M”emory buttons are located. Go to this LUNA CYCLES YouTube video for 500c color display info:
After consulting with the rep, and informing her of just how convoluted I considered this ebike companys business format to be (Roshans telephone#/the nonexistent email address, the horrific Swift Programming Guide, etc.), I went back to abusing my newest toy.
NOTE to BIKTRIX: For EACH model of bike, put ALL of the pertinent information regarding THAT particular ebike, including a PDF download, on its individual site link. Also, put a NOTICE in LARGE LETTERS that the bike shipping box will contain NO printed instructional matter-- all info is on the website link.. Do this when you relay a “package shipped” email, too. I am stunned/amazed, I truly am..
I'm currently using this "individualized" combo on the SWIFT (see photo's at the bottom):
carbon fiber saddle (seat):
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Full-Carbo...lossy-For-MTB-Road-Bike-US-Stock/322346643241
suspension seat thingie: https://www.amazon.com/Sweetichic-Bicycle-Suspension-Absorber-Mountain/dp/B07YDLPJ8N/ref=sr_1_25? This doo-dad looks really weird, but it works quite well. I like it better than the usual basic suspension seatpost.
Wanna know how many teeth are on the front crankset? 46 teeth. Ya won't find it on their website.
Oh, here are the pedals I currently have installed: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013QRLYPI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00
Onward to day #2:
My special tire/inner tube formula that is installed on my SWIFT:
Tire: https://www.amazon.com/Fenix-Slick-Tread-Bicycle-Black/dp/B078B5PVSS/ref=pd_di_sccai_21?
I know the SWIFT ships with Kenda puncture resistant tires, but I can't see using them with the “inner tubes” below. I can always use those original tires/tubes later, if needed. "inner tube”-- https://www.amazon.com/Bell-Solid-NoMorFlat-Bicycle-1-75-1-95/dp/B000BOCA44/ref=pd_bxgy_468_2? I am fortunate enough to own 4 of these awesome now-extinct “tubes”.
I also own a pair of these “tubes” (the YELLOW version) : https://www.walmart.com/ip/Stop-A-Flat-Puncture-Proof-Bicycle-Tube-8200/319788107?
Now for some GOOD information. I took the SWIFT out for a short 4 mile ride – FedEx was supposed to deliver a package and I didn't want to be away for too long.
I go to the parking lot across the street and press the thumb throttle. I do my 4 mile ride and am impressed by this ebike. However, the 500c color computer display unit, while being quite pretty with all the neat colors, needs to be at least 20% LARGER. It is too compact. In direct sunlight, it is too “washed out”, even on “Brightness 5”. Someone in my age group (age 69) would need to wear bifocal eyeglasses to be able to safely view those VERY SMALL digits of the side bars (battery%/watts/odometer) information. The circular green speedometer thingie is REALLY CUTE, but it is redundant. The battery % numerical graphic is off by 7%.. A fully charged battery is only showing 93%, instead of 100%. This happens with 4 different batteries which were charged by 3 different chargers. Use KISS (Keep It Simple Simon). My other “battery% /volts” LCD monitor shows 100%/53.4 volts, etc.
The buttons on the display unit require way too much pressure to activate. In this day and age of “touch”, ebikers are not gonna be Happy Campers. If my microwave had buttons like this, it would be shoved against the wall every time I pressed a button. I have even relocated this CDU to another location from normal because I've installed a few other goodies onto the handlebar area. And, everything fits just fine and dandy.
I have replaced the original front bike light system with this unit: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32977449060.html? . These LCD lights are very inexpensive, ship from China, take about 30 days to get here, have a VERY bright light with flasher/strobe (mandatory for all my bikes lighting systems)-- I order them 3 at a time, or more. I don't need/use the solar option, so I have mounted an LCD wristwatch face on the solar panel-- easy to see, but out of the way, too.
My 2020 SWIFT at hour #72..
I am 69 years old.. 5'8” tall.. My out-the-door ebike ride weight is 210 pounds due to an 18 pound backpack (CamelBak hydration bladder/ extra 16ah battery/ etc). My goal is to ride 50+ miles every day. Some days I go 65 miles.. Some days I go 0 miles (bummer). I consider most of my 8 bikes (5 are ebikes-- 2 of those are Xtreme (brand) and they both REALLY SUCK) to be just wonderful lil' toyz. At my age, I may be dead tomorrow. Therefore, I'm gonna have fun today. And I do.
My new SWIFT ebike toy was delivered Thursday, May 28, at 2pm.
By Saturday, May 30th, it looked like the pic's below..
My bikes are my toyz, so what you see is what I do.
I took a 20 mile “shakedown ride” on Friday, followed by a 50 mile ride today, Sunday, May 31st,when these pic's were taken.
I still have some “dialing in” to do, but, while I'm not gonna give this SWIFT a grade of “F”, I'm not gonna give it an “A” either. By the way, todays 50 mile ride was:
Using PAS 1-3 mode. I used 2 for most of the ride (less resistance). Next ride will be PAS 1-5 mode, followed by PAS 1-9 mode.
[The first 25 miles were using the 14.5ah battery that came with the Swift. At that mile (25), the battery indicator (%) showed 12% and one red bar. I always stop and change out my batteries whenever the 1st one gets down to “one bar”. I installed a 16ah (from one of my M2S ebikes) and completed the 50 miler with the “%” at 50% at mile #50. I figure that I may have been able to attain 10 more miles before that battery went down to “no red bar”-- but, ya never know.
So much for the bike rides. By the way, I plan to get in a bunch of miles (I try to do 50 milers every day), and then post another update in a few weeks.
Using PAS 1-5 mode: Another 50 mile ride. The initial 27 miles was via 14.5ah battery. Used “3” for most of that portion. However, “4” and occasionally “5, was required to get up an incline (not a hill)--not a good thing. I managed an additional 2 miles (27) compared to earlier ride using PAS1-3 (25). Next ride for comparison will be using PAS1-9..
PAS1-9 mode: Another ride, but only 30 miles. Had 26 miles @ one red bar remaining. Only used the original SWIFT 14.5ah battery. Still had battery juice remaining (ebike did not shut down- that is good (decent mileage)). Used PAS 7 for most of the ride. Needed PAS9 on inclines (bummer). Remember that I am 210pounds, ride-ready).
SIDENOTE: On both of my M2S-ebike Fat Tire beasts, I use PAS1-9. “2” is the setting I use 95% of the time. “3” is only needed on ascents/inclines/hills. If I used “4”, those ebikes would take off like a frigging rocket. The fact that, on this SWIFT, I need “7” (of 9) just to be able to maintain a degree of assisted forward progress, and “9” to get up a hill, leaves me with a high degree of doubt in regards to the SWIFT, AND its $$$ price. However, testing will continue for another 200-300 miles because ya just never know what might rear its head (ugly?).. The SWIFT currently has 156 miles (in 6 days).
At this time, I believe that, for the SWIFT, PAS1-5, with me using “3” as the primary motivator, will be my favored choice.
Again, I weight 210 pounds (minimum) walking out the door, so this info will give you an idea of how to gauge your own rider preferences, PAS-wise.
By the way, I had just come off a 28 mile ride on my M2S KUSH fat tire ebike.. Holy crappy-doodle, what a significant difference. Like going from a cushy pickup truck with oversize tires to a sporty handling/twitchy Miata.
As for my initial foray into BikTrix SWIFT ebike world:
a). On the company website, on the “spec's” section, the SWIFT seatpost is shown as 31.8mm. Based on that information I went ahead and ordered a seatpost shim in size 27.2mm/31.8mm because, of my 8 bikes, 5 use a 27.2mm seatpost. I currently have a dozen dedicated saddle/27.2mm seatpost combo's. I just swap out the complete unit. This (27.2mm) has been my standard for many years (I started mountain biking in 1983, at age 32-- CannonDale was my brand of choice for most of those years, thus 27.2mm). However, when I bought my 2018 M2S KUSH ebike, I had a 30.4mm post to deal with, so I bought a few 27.2mm/30.4mm shims. They work just awesome. Then I bought a 2019 M2S R750 hardtail.. Again, 30.4mm.
Forward to now: My SWIFT, with a 31.8mm seatpost(?) arrives. I begin “the process” (see pic's). I have already ordered a 27.2/31.8mm shim. It is due to arrive tomorrow.. Since I was dinking around, I decided to insert one of my extra 27.2/30.4 shims into the seat tube of the Swift. The dang 30.4mm was TOO LARGE for the hole. What the heck. I look at the SWIFT seatpost. Stamped on it is “28.6mm”. Jeezuz. Now I had to order a 27.2/28.6mm shim. By the way, the size 31.8mm is the size of the quick-release seatpost collar. If you ever decide to update your SWIFT collar, then “31.8mm” is the size you need to order.
b). An open end wrench and a triple hex wrench tool is included with your ebike purchase. If you ever need to remove the rear wheel, the wrench, size 18mm, is what you'll use on the lug nuts (one on each side). Fortunately for me, since I like to dink around with my toyz, the tires/inner tubes were being swapping out for my own special units. So, I'm in my living room, at hour 10, doing the evil deed. The front wheel is quick-release, so no problem-o. Plus, I just swapped out the entire front wheel unit from one of my XTREME (brand) PoS ebikes.
The rear wheel: on the disc brake side-- no problem. On the gear/electrical wire side: BIG PROBLEM. The dang 18mm wrench is TOO SMALL.
I have 4 other wrenches with 18mm ends. All of them were too small. I finally used an adjustable wrench to loosen the nut.
Can you imagine being out on a bike ride, getting a flat requiring you to remove that very heavy AND complicated rear wheel, only to find out what I just described? So, check your lug nuts right now, at home. If both sides fit the 18mm wrench, then life is good. But, if not, welcome to my world. By the way: I will NEVER get a flat tire on my SWIFT-- because the tires don't have any air in them..
c). The rear axle was installed onto the frame “upside down”. By this, I mean that the electrical wire exiting the hollow axle, has a slight “cutout” at the end of the axle to allow the wire to “bend”, but to bend DOWN. On this ebike, the wire was pointing/aimed UP. This is not good because water/moisture can/will trickle right down into the motor housing. Yes, there is a rubber “condom” (of sorts) to protect/seal that area. However, it can, and does, get worked loose over time. All 5 of my ebikes suffer from this falling away at one time or another. SideNote: I did a 60 mile ride. The last 11 miles were done in a decent rainstorm-- the exact reason to have that rear axle wiring pointing “down”.
This item can be rectified on your ebike. HOWEVER, you will also need to remove the washer with the “tit” on it (both sides of the rear axle have this washer-- it is called a “torque washer”) and re-insert it so it is on the same side of the axle as the cutout mentioned above. This will make more sense when you get a “visual” for reference.
If these internet companies were more diligent in their “Quality Control” procedures, you wouldn't even be reading the above information. But, such is life when you want to save a few $$$..Plus, this SWIFT, being a new model (Dec.2019), is gonna have some teething issues.
d). the 500c color computer display unit, while being quite pretty with all the neat colors, is too compact. It needs to be at least 20% LARGER. In direct sunlight, it is too “washed out”, even on “Brightness 5”. Someone in my age group (age 69) would need to wear bifocal eyeglasses to be able to safely view those VERY SMALL digits of the side bars (battery%/watts/odometer) information. The circular green speedometer thingie is REALLY CUTE, but it is redundant. The battery % numerical graphic is off by 7%.. A fully charged battery is only showing 93%, instead of 100%. This happens with 4 different batteries which were charged by 3 different chargers. Use KISS (Keep It Simple Simon). My other “battery% /volts” LCD monitor shows 100%/53.4 volts, etc. Also, the battery volts info will just confuse the average ebike rider. All they know is that their ebike battery is 48v.. “So, why is the 53v--43v displaying on my monitor?” UPDATE: The battery indicator showed no color (red) at mile 25. I kept riding. The ebike finally shut down at mile 38.5-- 13.5 miles AFTER the pretty colors all were gone. This is what happens when indicators (battery) are so inaccurate.
You will notice in the photos below, that my entire handlebar area is definitely NOT STOCK. I will address some of that stuff during my “update” in a few weeks. Otherwise, if you cruise over to the M2S FORUM on this website, you will find 10+ posts of mine (Sic Puppy). They all concern my M2S Fat Tire beasts, but those 2 ebikes also look almost identical (handlebar area-wise) to this BikTrix SWIFT. Be forewarned: it is going to be ALOT of reading.
I do not think that I'm going to be a big fan of the XMUS 1000w geared rear hub ( XF19R-- the 3-prong connector)]
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000848090350.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.4.7884f9f8HgLTvT
but I'm gonna give it another 200 or so miles of evaluation before I do an update. It may have a “breaking in “ period-- I think that 500 miles will be good enough.. So far, it really pales in comparison to the BaFang 750w rear hub.
So, like this post title states, I'm currently at day 10 and mileage 264.
I still have some “dialing in” to do, but, while I'm not gonna give this SWIFT a grade of “F”, I'm not gonna give it an “A” either.
]
I originally purchased this ebike (with my $1,200 COVID 19 Stimulus Package bucks) because I wanted a “sportier” version of ebike. My two M2S Fat Tire ebikes are definitely Beasts in their own right, but they're more of a “pickup truck with oversize tires”. I also wanted a quick handling hot rod (kinda sorta) toy, too. I have been dinking around with that option for more than a year. I had 4 specific requirements: 1). it had to have regular size 26” wheels (not fat tire stuff), 2). it had to use the Reention Dorado battery (I already have 3 of those), 3). it had to be Class 3 (28mph throttle-only) and, 4). it had to be a step-thru model. In hindsight, I should have added a 5th requirement: a 750w BaFang rear hub. So, I recently stumbled across this very new 2020 SWIFT model and it met all 4 (but NOT the 5th ) of my requirements. Finally.. New Toy Time.
I now own a 2020 BikTrix SWIFT ebike (black.. 48v/14.5ah battery). I originally wanted the 17.5ah battery option, but those were on back order. I already own two 16ah and one 10.4ah Reention Dorado batteries, AND, for the difference in price between the 14.5ah and the 17.5ah units, I could get on the internet and buy another complete 17.5ah. So, I went ahead with the 14.5ah battery. Besides, I figure that the SWIFT, with a 14.5ah battery and skinny tires, will probably get more miles per charge than will either of my two M2S 750w BaFang rear hub/48v/16ah Fat Tire ebikes.
Prior to actually ordering this ebike, I got conformation from Roshan at BikTrix that a). the 14.5ah battery from this bike is the same length as the 16ah/17.5ah/21ah battery (it is) and, b). the ebike can be set to “CLASS 3” via the computer display unit (cdu) on the handlebar (it is). Believe me, the difference between 20mph throttle-only top speed and 28mph throttle-only top speed (a nearly 50% increase in speed) cannot be understated. Do you want a Subaru (20mph) or do you want a Porsche (28mph)-- for the exact same price??.. Sure, you will seldom use/need that extra 8mph, but it sure is nice to know that it is there.
I ordered my bike thru ElectriCityCycles on May 20, 2020.. They have/had a 5% discount, so the item cost $1,709 delivered. The order shipped from Canada on May 25 (Memorial day in the USA). The ebike arrived via FedEx on May 28th.
I had my way with the DOUBLE-boxed ebike container and ,within an hour, was ready to assault the ebike. Assembly was a piece of cake. The only problem was that I did NOT want the rear rack (a very nice unit) OR the fenders (I already own numerous quick-on/off seat post mounted plastic fenders). The rack was easy to remove (by the way, I now have 5 ebikes and 4 unused rear racks).
Now, on to the rear fender. Holy crap, this sucka was installed to stay installed. I thought that I would need to actually remove the dang rear wheel just to get at the topmost frame screw. I finally decided to just take my little metal-cutting saw and have my way with that dang screw. So, I did. Fender gone to “the storage pile”.
Next, I replaced the stock handlebar/adjustable stem with units that I already owned. However, doing that transformation requires this item:
Stem adapter (you want the 25.4mm to 28.6mm) :
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028N14GQ/ref=dp_cerb_2
OR, this one; https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H8N9G2Y?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image (you want the 25.4mm (to 28.6mm).
You then need a correct sized stem:
carbon fiber stem. It will work with the stem adapter shown above (31.8mm is the handlebar size required): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32846703129.html
And then the correct size handlebar:
carbon fiber handlebar (31.8mm): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32950046970.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.3e194c4dsA4tuZ
Finally, since all my ebikes use a dingle bell and a rear view mirror, a pair of bar ends on which to mount them: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002I7PRUQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .. By the way, the bar ends also serve as protectors/bumpers for the handlebar mounted computer display unit (cdu)-- in the event of the eventual crash/fall that we all deal with. Additionally, you can flip your ebike upside down to remove the rear wheel, etc. and everything mounted on your handlebar area will be protected (I just remove the mirror).
So far, I still have not even gotten around to actually turning on the cdu/ebike. Now, it is time. Where is that darn Owners Manual? Every ebike I've ever bought had at least a similance of a basic “get started” manual. Dang, I looked everywhere. I even removed the seat post to see if it was stuffed down the seat tube.. Ya never know.
Since this ebike company is located in Canada, there was a Bill of Lading attached to the shipping box. On that paper was the “contact point”, including a telephone # for Roshan at BikTrix (306) 262-1967. Go ahead, call that #. And remember that this is the telephone# Customs will use to call, if necessary. Chit fire.. On to plan “b”.
I get on the internet and find the email for BikTrix and shoot an email to [email protected] I get an immediate response: That Email Address is not Recognized.. Holy crap!! (update: it works correctly now). So, here it is Thursday at 2pm. My last option:1-866-BIK-TRIX. No one answers. It goes to Voice Mail. Leave a CallBack #?? So, I did. I'm thinking “ What if this incident had occurred over the weekend?” Can you imagine receiving your ebike on Friday afternoon and NOT being able to get the situation rectified until Monday morning??
As I await the callback, I peruse the BikTrix website and stumble across this link: https://support.biktrix.com/hc/en-us/articles/360039064292-Swift-Programming-Guide
Go ahead, click on to it. Man. I was absolutely astonished/horrified. Remember, I already own 4 other ebikes, so I have a basic idea of what to expect when programming the handlebar-mounted CDU. This crap just blew me away. But, ya gotta do what ya gotta do. This link would absolutely blow away an ebike 1st timer..
So, I commence searching for the adapter to connect my laptop to the CDU. No where to be found. Jeesus, I now have a $1,700 bill setting stagnant in my living room. No power. No instructions. What the Hey did I get myself into here??
Shortly thereafter, the phone rings. It is the lady BikTrix representative. I explain my dilemma. She then leads me to the correct link on the BikTrix website to enable me to “start 'er up”: https://support.biktrix.com/hc/en-us/articles/360035894931-Swift-Display-Quick-start-guide-500c- .. The only problem with these instructions is that you are never even told where the “on/off” and “M”emory buttons are located. Go to this LUNA CYCLES YouTube video for 500c color display info:
After consulting with the rep, and informing her of just how convoluted I considered this ebike companys business format to be (Roshans telephone#/the nonexistent email address, the horrific Swift Programming Guide, etc.), I went back to abusing my newest toy.
NOTE to BIKTRIX: For EACH model of bike, put ALL of the pertinent information regarding THAT particular ebike, including a PDF download, on its individual site link. Also, put a NOTICE in LARGE LETTERS that the bike shipping box will contain NO printed instructional matter-- all info is on the website link.. Do this when you relay a “package shipped” email, too. I am stunned/amazed, I truly am..
I'm currently using this "individualized" combo on the SWIFT (see photo's at the bottom):
carbon fiber saddle (seat):
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Full-Carbo...lossy-For-MTB-Road-Bike-US-Stock/322346643241
suspension seat thingie: https://www.amazon.com/Sweetichic-Bicycle-Suspension-Absorber-Mountain/dp/B07YDLPJ8N/ref=sr_1_25? This doo-dad looks really weird, but it works quite well. I like it better than the usual basic suspension seatpost.
Wanna know how many teeth are on the front crankset? 46 teeth. Ya won't find it on their website.
Oh, here are the pedals I currently have installed: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013QRLYPI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00
Onward to day #2:
My special tire/inner tube formula that is installed on my SWIFT:
Tire: https://www.amazon.com/Fenix-Slick-Tread-Bicycle-Black/dp/B078B5PVSS/ref=pd_di_sccai_21?
I know the SWIFT ships with Kenda puncture resistant tires, but I can't see using them with the “inner tubes” below. I can always use those original tires/tubes later, if needed. "inner tube”-- https://www.amazon.com/Bell-Solid-NoMorFlat-Bicycle-1-75-1-95/dp/B000BOCA44/ref=pd_bxgy_468_2? I am fortunate enough to own 4 of these awesome now-extinct “tubes”.
I also own a pair of these “tubes” (the YELLOW version) : https://www.walmart.com/ip/Stop-A-Flat-Puncture-Proof-Bicycle-Tube-8200/319788107?
Now for some GOOD information. I took the SWIFT out for a short 4 mile ride – FedEx was supposed to deliver a package and I didn't want to be away for too long.
I go to the parking lot across the street and press the thumb throttle. I do my 4 mile ride and am impressed by this ebike. However, the 500c color computer display unit, while being quite pretty with all the neat colors, needs to be at least 20% LARGER. It is too compact. In direct sunlight, it is too “washed out”, even on “Brightness 5”. Someone in my age group (age 69) would need to wear bifocal eyeglasses to be able to safely view those VERY SMALL digits of the side bars (battery%/watts/odometer) information. The circular green speedometer thingie is REALLY CUTE, but it is redundant. The battery % numerical graphic is off by 7%.. A fully charged battery is only showing 93%, instead of 100%. This happens with 4 different batteries which were charged by 3 different chargers. Use KISS (Keep It Simple Simon). My other “battery% /volts” LCD monitor shows 100%/53.4 volts, etc.
The buttons on the display unit require way too much pressure to activate. In this day and age of “touch”, ebikers are not gonna be Happy Campers. If my microwave had buttons like this, it would be shoved against the wall every time I pressed a button. I have even relocated this CDU to another location from normal because I've installed a few other goodies onto the handlebar area. And, everything fits just fine and dandy.
I have replaced the original front bike light system with this unit: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32977449060.html? . These LCD lights are very inexpensive, ship from China, take about 30 days to get here, have a VERY bright light with flasher/strobe (mandatory for all my bikes lighting systems)-- I order them 3 at a time, or more. I don't need/use the solar option, so I have mounted an LCD wristwatch face on the solar panel-- easy to see, but out of the way, too.
My 2020 SWIFT at hour #72..
I am 69 years old.. 5'8” tall.. My out-the-door ebike ride weight is 210 pounds due to an 18 pound backpack (CamelBak hydration bladder/ extra 16ah battery/ etc). My goal is to ride 50+ miles every day. Some days I go 65 miles.. Some days I go 0 miles (bummer). I consider most of my 8 bikes (5 are ebikes-- 2 of those are Xtreme (brand) and they both REALLY SUCK) to be just wonderful lil' toyz. At my age, I may be dead tomorrow. Therefore, I'm gonna have fun today. And I do.
My new SWIFT ebike toy was delivered Thursday, May 28, at 2pm.
By Saturday, May 30th, it looked like the pic's below..
My bikes are my toyz, so what you see is what I do.
I took a 20 mile “shakedown ride” on Friday, followed by a 50 mile ride today, Sunday, May 31st,when these pic's were taken.
I still have some “dialing in” to do, but, while I'm not gonna give this SWIFT a grade of “F”, I'm not gonna give it an “A” either. By the way, todays 50 mile ride was:
Using PAS 1-3 mode. I used 2 for most of the ride (less resistance). Next ride will be PAS 1-5 mode, followed by PAS 1-9 mode.
[The first 25 miles were using the 14.5ah battery that came with the Swift. At that mile (25), the battery indicator (%) showed 12% and one red bar. I always stop and change out my batteries whenever the 1st one gets down to “one bar”. I installed a 16ah (from one of my M2S ebikes) and completed the 50 miler with the “%” at 50% at mile #50. I figure that I may have been able to attain 10 more miles before that battery went down to “no red bar”-- but, ya never know.
So much for the bike rides. By the way, I plan to get in a bunch of miles (I try to do 50 milers every day), and then post another update in a few weeks.
Using PAS 1-5 mode: Another 50 mile ride. The initial 27 miles was via 14.5ah battery. Used “3” for most of that portion. However, “4” and occasionally “5, was required to get up an incline (not a hill)--not a good thing. I managed an additional 2 miles (27) compared to earlier ride using PAS1-3 (25). Next ride for comparison will be using PAS1-9..
PAS1-9 mode: Another ride, but only 30 miles. Had 26 miles @ one red bar remaining. Only used the original SWIFT 14.5ah battery. Still had battery juice remaining (ebike did not shut down- that is good (decent mileage)). Used PAS 7 for most of the ride. Needed PAS9 on inclines (bummer). Remember that I am 210pounds, ride-ready).
SIDENOTE: On both of my M2S-ebike Fat Tire beasts, I use PAS1-9. “2” is the setting I use 95% of the time. “3” is only needed on ascents/inclines/hills. If I used “4”, those ebikes would take off like a frigging rocket. The fact that, on this SWIFT, I need “7” (of 9) just to be able to maintain a degree of assisted forward progress, and “9” to get up a hill, leaves me with a high degree of doubt in regards to the SWIFT, AND its $$$ price. However, testing will continue for another 200-300 miles because ya just never know what might rear its head (ugly?).. The SWIFT currently has 156 miles (in 6 days).
At this time, I believe that, for the SWIFT, PAS1-5, with me using “3” as the primary motivator, will be my favored choice.
Again, I weight 210 pounds (minimum) walking out the door, so this info will give you an idea of how to gauge your own rider preferences, PAS-wise.
By the way, I had just come off a 28 mile ride on my M2S KUSH fat tire ebike.. Holy crappy-doodle, what a significant difference. Like going from a cushy pickup truck with oversize tires to a sporty handling/twitchy Miata.
As for my initial foray into BikTrix SWIFT ebike world:
a). On the company website, on the “spec's” section, the SWIFT seatpost is shown as 31.8mm. Based on that information I went ahead and ordered a seatpost shim in size 27.2mm/31.8mm because, of my 8 bikes, 5 use a 27.2mm seatpost. I currently have a dozen dedicated saddle/27.2mm seatpost combo's. I just swap out the complete unit. This (27.2mm) has been my standard for many years (I started mountain biking in 1983, at age 32-- CannonDale was my brand of choice for most of those years, thus 27.2mm). However, when I bought my 2018 M2S KUSH ebike, I had a 30.4mm post to deal with, so I bought a few 27.2mm/30.4mm shims. They work just awesome. Then I bought a 2019 M2S R750 hardtail.. Again, 30.4mm.
Forward to now: My SWIFT, with a 31.8mm seatpost(?) arrives. I begin “the process” (see pic's). I have already ordered a 27.2/31.8mm shim. It is due to arrive tomorrow.. Since I was dinking around, I decided to insert one of my extra 27.2/30.4 shims into the seat tube of the Swift. The dang 30.4mm was TOO LARGE for the hole. What the heck. I look at the SWIFT seatpost. Stamped on it is “28.6mm”. Jeezuz. Now I had to order a 27.2/28.6mm shim. By the way, the size 31.8mm is the size of the quick-release seatpost collar. If you ever decide to update your SWIFT collar, then “31.8mm” is the size you need to order.
b). An open end wrench and a triple hex wrench tool is included with your ebike purchase. If you ever need to remove the rear wheel, the wrench, size 18mm, is what you'll use on the lug nuts (one on each side). Fortunately for me, since I like to dink around with my toyz, the tires/inner tubes were being swapping out for my own special units. So, I'm in my living room, at hour 10, doing the evil deed. The front wheel is quick-release, so no problem-o. Plus, I just swapped out the entire front wheel unit from one of my XTREME (brand) PoS ebikes.
The rear wheel: on the disc brake side-- no problem. On the gear/electrical wire side: BIG PROBLEM. The dang 18mm wrench is TOO SMALL.
I have 4 other wrenches with 18mm ends. All of them were too small. I finally used an adjustable wrench to loosen the nut.
Can you imagine being out on a bike ride, getting a flat requiring you to remove that very heavy AND complicated rear wheel, only to find out what I just described? So, check your lug nuts right now, at home. If both sides fit the 18mm wrench, then life is good. But, if not, welcome to my world. By the way: I will NEVER get a flat tire on my SWIFT-- because the tires don't have any air in them..
c). The rear axle was installed onto the frame “upside down”. By this, I mean that the electrical wire exiting the hollow axle, has a slight “cutout” at the end of the axle to allow the wire to “bend”, but to bend DOWN. On this ebike, the wire was pointing/aimed UP. This is not good because water/moisture can/will trickle right down into the motor housing. Yes, there is a rubber “condom” (of sorts) to protect/seal that area. However, it can, and does, get worked loose over time. All 5 of my ebikes suffer from this falling away at one time or another. SideNote: I did a 60 mile ride. The last 11 miles were done in a decent rainstorm-- the exact reason to have that rear axle wiring pointing “down”.
This item can be rectified on your ebike. HOWEVER, you will also need to remove the washer with the “tit” on it (both sides of the rear axle have this washer-- it is called a “torque washer”) and re-insert it so it is on the same side of the axle as the cutout mentioned above. This will make more sense when you get a “visual” for reference.
If these internet companies were more diligent in their “Quality Control” procedures, you wouldn't even be reading the above information. But, such is life when you want to save a few $$$..Plus, this SWIFT, being a new model (Dec.2019), is gonna have some teething issues.
d). the 500c color computer display unit, while being quite pretty with all the neat colors, is too compact. It needs to be at least 20% LARGER. In direct sunlight, it is too “washed out”, even on “Brightness 5”. Someone in my age group (age 69) would need to wear bifocal eyeglasses to be able to safely view those VERY SMALL digits of the side bars (battery%/watts/odometer) information. The circular green speedometer thingie is REALLY CUTE, but it is redundant. The battery % numerical graphic is off by 7%.. A fully charged battery is only showing 93%, instead of 100%. This happens with 4 different batteries which were charged by 3 different chargers. Use KISS (Keep It Simple Simon). My other “battery% /volts” LCD monitor shows 100%/53.4 volts, etc. Also, the battery volts info will just confuse the average ebike rider. All they know is that their ebike battery is 48v.. “So, why is the 53v--43v displaying on my monitor?” UPDATE: The battery indicator showed no color (red) at mile 25. I kept riding. The ebike finally shut down at mile 38.5-- 13.5 miles AFTER the pretty colors all were gone. This is what happens when indicators (battery) are so inaccurate.
You will notice in the photos below, that my entire handlebar area is definitely NOT STOCK. I will address some of that stuff during my “update” in a few weeks. Otherwise, if you cruise over to the M2S FORUM on this website, you will find 10+ posts of mine (Sic Puppy). They all concern my M2S Fat Tire beasts, but those 2 ebikes also look almost identical (handlebar area-wise) to this BikTrix SWIFT. Be forewarned: it is going to be ALOT of reading.
I do not think that I'm going to be a big fan of the XMUS 1000w geared rear hub ( XF19R-- the 3-prong connector)]
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000848090350.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.4.7884f9f8HgLTvT
but I'm gonna give it another 200 or so miles of evaluation before I do an update. It may have a “breaking in “ period-- I think that 500 miles will be good enough.. So far, it really pales in comparison to the BaFang 750w rear hub.
So, like this post title states, I'm currently at day 10 and mileage 264.
I still have some “dialing in” to do, but, while I'm not gonna give this SWIFT a grade of “F”, I'm not gonna give it an “A” either.
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