splicing Julet 4 pin tail light cable

spokewrench

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
I removed the center stand from my Abound. It's wonderfully made. I thought pulling the hinge pin would be asking for trouble, so I brushed it off and sprayed moving parts with silicone, and it works better than new.

I turned on my headlight at sundown so drivers would see me coming. When I got home I realized it wasn't working. Then it flashed with a steady 1-second cycle. Then it quit. Then it came back on and kept working. I found that nothing worked in the rear: tail, brake, or turn. As long as I had reflectors, I figured they were much less important than a headlight.

Darn, I'd mashed the cable when I remounted the center stand.I've contacted Aventon about a replacement light, but I doubt customer service is interested in customer service. There's at least 6" extra length, so I can splice, but heat-shrink wouldn't provide much protection against tugging in such a vulnerable location. Is there a device that can be clamped over a cable splice?

splice.jpeg
 
I've used small bore spiral wrap in situations like that. It's available in sizes down to .25". It isn't perfect for preventing tugging, but if you apply it 6" or more on each side of the splice, it helps quite a bit. It also offers great chafe and crush protection.

You can get a free sample from Caplugs here:


Or from Amazon:

 
Last edited:
Thanks. That looks like the stuff used to bundle cables coming from handlebars, and it can be applied after the repair.

I'm better off than I thought. I can buy a 90cm male extender, which will allow me to make a splice at a safer location. Three years ago, I bought what I thought was a male-female extender for a brake sensor cable, so I could raise my bars. In fact, I had to solder a male and a female together. The gauge was very small and wouldn't have stood much tugging. I had enough cable to put the splice in the middle of a loop, which I fastened to the stem with an elastic velcro strap made to keep pants cuffs away from a grimy chain. It has been safe from tugging.

I may buy some spiral wrap as much for decoration as for protection.
 
@spokewrench forgive me but I’m having trouble envisioning where that cable is on the bike. It’s so close-up that I don’t know what I’m looking at.

For the record, I see two damaged spots on the cable. The obvious cut, but also on the left of the picture looks badly pinched and (likely) damaged.

Anyway, good luck with your fix. I think you’re going to need to splice in a length of cable and run it between two cuts. And, yes, assuming you get a little slack in there, I like 6’s suggestion of using the spiral wrap around that section of cable — again, assuming you have enough play to do so after the splice.
 
@spokewrench forgive me but I’m having trouble envisioning where that cable is on the bike. It’s so close-up that I don’t know what I’m looking at.

For the record, I see two damaged spots on the cable. The obvious cut, but also on the left of the picture looks badly pinched and (likely) damaged.

Anyway, good luck with your fix. I think you’re going to need to splice in a length of cable and run it between two cuts. And, yes, assuming you get a little slack in there, I like 6’s suggestion of using the spiral wrap around that section of cable — again, assuming you have enough play to do so after the splice.
Those are where the corners of the base of the center stand mashed it. As you can see, I was able to pull a lot of slack out of the controller compartment. It was zip-tied alongside the motor cable, which, along with the brake line, hid it when I bolted the center stand (marvelous piece of Chinese engineering!) back on.

I've made a mountain out of a mole hill. I haven't spliced it yet because it's 99 F out there. When I do, there should still be slack to stuff back into the controller compartment. Taping the splice to the chain stay should hold it. If I have trouble, I can buy an extension and splice elsewhere.

splice2.jpeg
 
I've done that as well.... Sometimes even putting heat shrink over it
Typically the heat shrink with adhesive has a thicker wall and adds a bit more protection but with less flexibility in the finished product.
Thank you! If I'd known then what I know now...
This stuff should be great with uninsulated crimp terminals, which make it easier to be sure of a good crimp connection.
I don't know about shrink ratios. I ordered 3:1 in lengths of 3.5", I think. A longer length of adhesive should resist tugging better.
 
The larger the shrink ratio the more versatile it is.. Especially when working with, or need to feed it over something like a connector.
6:1 is usually the best available but is typically expensive
4:1 is considered good quality
2:1 is the cheapest and most common.
3:1...you can't go wrong with middle of the road 👍
In the end if it fits over your work and shrinks to a tight fit... That's what's most important so larger ratios aren't always necessary.
My home stock consist of 2:1 for most applications and 4:1 for special occasions 🙃
 
Got it, spoke...

Glad you have the slack you need to do the splicing. Tallyho.
 
Back