splicing Julet 4 pin tail light cable

[spokewrench]

I removed the center stand from my Abound. It's wonderfully made. I thought pulling the hinge pin would be asking for trouble, so I brushed it off and sprayed moving parts with silicone, and it works better than new.

I turned on my headlight at sundown so drivers would see me coming. When I got home I realized it wasn't working. Then it flashed with a steady 1-second cycle. Then it quit. Then it came back on and kept working. I found that nothing worked in the rear: tail, brake, or turn. As long as I had reflectors, I figured they were much less important than a headlight.

Darn, I'd mashed the cable when I remounted the center stand.I've contacted Aventon about a replacement light, but I doubt customer service is interested in customer service. There's at least 6" extra length, so I can splice, but heat-shrink wouldn't provide much protection against tugging in such a vulnerable location. Is there a device that can be clamped over a cable splice?

 

[6zfshdb]

I've used small bore spiral wrap in situations like that. It's available in sizes down to .25". It isn't perfect for preventing tugging, but if you apply it 6" or more on each side of the splice, it helps quite a bit. It also offers great chafe and crush protection.

You can get a free sample from Caplugs here:

Hydraulic Hose Spiral Wrap | PTPW Series | Caplugs

Our Pig’s Tail™ spiral wrap for hydraulic & pneumatic hoses and cables protects from damage and wear. Shop & order our spiral hydraulic hose wrap online today.

www.caplugs.com

Or from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Spiral-Cable-Wrap-Electrical-Organizer/dp/B0BN3W6W27/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2G4K9GRMUASIX&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.VrYXhmy_qVRkZh12uGAiuneEdJ49K8m_952OqFHASwLQXXCc3tOpIjT947Qomhftu4hCvkr7kIjyybx_ibsCABdiDafoRQd38wMutvtzC7IiUFfVETXMffZY74PV0SjVIJEF3lLWS3M_PP3DuT7RiBZIvpokwZm34Rsf82MEg6pyDfGCMDh-asGOLzJEnbNNd1rPS_EETFJZ9JNMiYWEcMchw3NyP1AthiWU2UqQ-mc.9CbTh51yf1jb0TxY3oc2TtsUBYOT9hbrJNYfq1SJfJQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=.25%22%2Bspiral%2Bwrap&qid=1753554314&sprefix=25%2Bspiral%2Bwrap%2Caps%2C169&sr=8-3&th=1

 

[Gionnirocket]

I've done that as well.... Sometimes even putting heat shrink over it
Typically the heat shrink with adhesive has a thicker wall and adds a bit more protection but with less flexibility in the finished product.

 

[spokewrench]

Thanks. That looks like the stuff used to bundle cables coming from handlebars, and it can be applied after the repair.

I'm better off than I thought. I can buy a 90cm male extender, which will allow me to make a splice at a safer location. Three years ago, I bought what I thought was a male-female extender for a brake sensor cable, so I could raise my bars. In fact, I had to solder a male and a female together. The gauge was very small and wouldn't have stood much tugging. I had enough cable to put the splice in the middle of a loop, which I fastened to the stem with an elastic velcro strap made to keep pants cuffs away from a grimy chain. It has been safe from tugging.

I may buy some spiral wrap as much for decoration as for protection.

 

[Chazmo]

@spokewrench forgive me but I’m having trouble envisioning where that cable is on the bike. It’s so close-up that I don’t know what I’m looking at.

For the record, I see two damaged spots on the cable. The obvious cut, but also on the left of the picture looks badly pinched and (likely) damaged.

Anyway, good luck with your fix. I think you’re going to need to splice in a length of cable and run it between two cuts. And, yes, assuming you get a little slack in there, I like 6’s suggestion of using the spiral wrap around that section of cable — again, assuming you have enough play to do so after the splice.

 

[spokewrench]

@spokewrench forgive me but I’m having trouble envisioning where that cable is on the bike. It’s so close-up that I don’t know what I’m looking at.

For the record, I see two damaged spots on the cable. The obvious cut, but also on the left of the picture looks badly pinched and (likely) damaged.

Anyway, good luck with your fix. I think you’re going to need to splice in a length of cable and run it between two cuts. And, yes, assuming you get a little slack in there, I like 6’s suggestion of using the spiral wrap around that section of cable — again, assuming you have enough play to do so after the splice.

Those are where the corners of the base of the center stand mashed it. As you can see, I was able to pull a lot of slack out of the controller compartment. It was zip-tied alongside the motor cable, which, along with the brake line, hid it when I bolted the center stand (marvelous piece of Chinese engineering!) back on.

I've made a mountain out of a mole hill. I haven't spliced it yet because it's 99 F out there. When I do, there should still be slack to stuff back into the controller compartment. Taping the splice to the chain stay should hold it. If I have trouble, I can buy an extension and splice elsewhere.

 

[spokewrench]

I've done that as well.... Sometimes even putting heat shrink over it
Typically the heat shrink with adhesive has a thicker wall and adds a bit more protection but with less flexibility in the finished product.

Thank you! If I'd known then what I know now...
This stuff should be great with uninsulated crimp terminals, which make it easier to be sure of a good crimp connection.
I don't know about shrink ratios. I ordered 3:1 in lengths of 3.5", I think. A longer length of adhesive should resist tugging better.

 

[Gionnirocket]

The larger the shrink ratio the more versatile it is.. Especially when working with, or need to feed it over something like a connector.
6:1 is usually the best available but is typically expensive
4:1 is considered good quality
2:1 is the cheapest and most common.
3:1...you can't go wrong with middle of the road
In the end if it fits over your work and shrinks to a tight fit... That's what's most important so larger ratios aren't always necessary.
My home stock consist of 2:1 for most applications and 4:1 for special occasions

 

[Slaphappygamer]

I’ve put hot glue over the wires before I slide the heat shrink over. The heat it up. That seemed pretty solid.

 

[Gionnirocket]

I’ve put hot glue over the wires before I slide the heat shrink over. The heat it up. That seemed pretty solid.

I just fixed a beatup USB cable that pulled apart at the connector that way.
Great minds

 

[Chazmo]

Got it, spoke...

Glad you have the slack you need to do the splicing. Tallyho.

 

[PCeBiker]

I just fixed a beatup USB cable that pulled apart at the connector that way.
Great minds

I've used Shoe Goo to reinforce connectors before they break.

It's a lot tougher than silicone or hot glue, but it's still flexible.

I glued my flashing tail light to my fabric trunk bag, and it worked Great !!

Then I pulled on it to test it and broke the connector.
The glue held though,..

I shouldn't have tried to lift the whole trunk bag by the clip.

 

[Gionnirocket]

Yeah I wouldn't use hot glue on my trunk bag to hold a light clip.. but I like it to reinforce electrical connections and such as it's easy to pinpoint application, fill voids and add strain relief on delicate pieces. I like that it can be further manipulated with a small heat gun during/after application and that it cools/hardens relatively quickly so you can move on to the next step.
That said I wouldn't do a 75 pound load test on my glued on light clip either

 

[PCeBiker]

Yeah I wouldn't use hot glue on my trunk bag to hold a light clip..

I use hot glue, silicone, and shrink tube all the time.
I got all three goin on here,..

BTW, "Maintenance Free" only means that you can't maintain the batteries, so you replace them instead.
There's nothing free about it.
You have to break them open to add water.

That said I wouldn't do a 75 pound load test on my glued on light clip either

Well, the trunk bag was empty when I tried to lift it in the air, but it does still weigh a hell of a lot more than the little light that it's supposed to be holding.

Yeah I wouldn't use hot glue on my trunk bag to hold a light clip..

I always had trouble trying to "glue" anything to anything flexible, especially "fabric" of any kind, but the Shoe Goo works Awesome !!!

I'd probably rip the fabric before the Shoe Goo glue lets go ??

 

[Gionnirocket]

I use hot glue, silicone, and shrink tube all the time.
I got all three goin on here,..


View attachment 197414

BTW, "Maintenance Free" only means that you can't maintain the batteries, so you replace them instead.
There's nothing free about it.
You have to break them open to add water.


View attachment 197415





Well, the trunk bag was empty when I tried to lift it in the air, but it does still weigh a hell of a lot more than the little light that it's supposed to be holding.





I always had trouble trying to "glue" anything to anything flexible, especially "fabric" of any kind, but the Shoe Goo works Awesome !!!

I'd probably rip the fabric before the Shoe Goo glue lets go ??

I would silicone on things like canvas which worked well... but that's also what I had on hand.
I try not to buy to many specific products these days... They end up drying out and becoming waste

 

[spokewrench]

Got it, spoke...

Glad you have the slack you need to do the splicing. Tallyho.

Failed. I came to see that the slack is necessary to slide the controller out of its cubbyhole. It cost me half an inch to splice the spot that was obviously bad, with an open jacket and at least two broken conductors. Nothing in back lights, so I ordered a 90cm extension. The tinned conductors will let me see with a meter if the tail light circuit of the controller still works. If it does, the extension will make splicing easier.

An aftermarket tail/brake light is pretty cheap... just in case. The color standard seems to be red for tail, yellow for brake, and black for return. My fourth conductor is blue. I don't know how it's supposed to power left and right turn signals. I'll find out after the extender arrives.

 

[Slaphappygamer]

Looks like you can remove the taillight from the rear rack. If you can, then remove it and move it closer to the controller and pull the slack from the controller side. You don’t need to pull the whole length of wire out, but just enough to do your splicing. Then tuck it all back and re-mount the tail light.

Be careful with the open wires. They probably have full pack voltage and you wouldn’t want to short them by accident. If it were me, I would unplug it from the controller if possible. But maybe you already know this.

Or IF the tail light wire from the controller is facing upwards/downwards, maybe you can flip the controller so you might gain slack that way too.

 

[spokewrench]

I would silicone on things like canvas which worked well... but that's also what I had on hand.
I try not to buy to many specific products these days... They end up drying out and becoming waste

In August, 2024 I ordered two 50ml bottles of "5210 Solder Multi-material repair adhesive Oil based glue." It turned out to be super glue. Once I knew what it was, I figured it would harden in the bottle within a month. I opened one and stored the other in the refrigerator.

That screw-down cap kept the contents liquid until I'd used it up, after about 10 months. I learned to wipe the nozzle before putting the cap on. Before that, I would have to remove the hardened stuff with a knife to open up the nozzle. You don't squeeze the bottle. You let it flow, and it can take time to start coming out. Without good light, you won't see that watery stuff. And there's always the danger of getting fingertips stuck together.

It has worked well for lots of things. My most common use was to reattach shoe soles. When the second bottle runs out, I intend to buy more.

 

[spokewrench]

Looks like you can remove the taillight from the rear rack. If you can, then remove it and move it closer to the controller and pull the slack from the controller side. You don’t need to pull the whole length of wire out, but just enough to do your splicing. Then tuck it all back and re-mount the tail light.

Be careful with the open wires. They probably have full pack voltage and you wouldn’t want to short them by accident. If it were me, I would unplug it from the controller if possible. But maybe you already know this.

Or IF the tail light wire from the controller is facing upwards/downwards, maybe you can flip the controller so you might gain slack that way too.

I'm sure they shorted when I mashed them under the center stand mounting. With the extension, I can see if the circuit still gets power, then put the splice in a shielded location. If the circuit is dead, I don't really need a tail, brake, or turn light, just reflectors. If I want it to work, I think Aventon sells replacement controllers pretty cheaply. I don't know if all models use the same controller.

 

[Chazmo]

Looks like you can remove the taillight from the rear rack. If you can, then remove it and move it closer to the controller and pull the slack from the controller side. You don’t need to pull the whole length of wire out, but just enough to do your splicing. Then tuck it all back and re-mount the tail light.

Be careful with the open wires. They probably have full pack voltage and you wouldn’t want to short them by accident. If it were me, I would unplug it from the controller if possible. But maybe you already know this.

Or IF the tail light wire from the controller is facing upwards/downwards, maybe you can flip the controller so you might gain slack that way too.

Or, another option, spoke, is to cap/disconnect the wire and use a battery-powered (self) tail light instead. That’s (unfortunately) what I have on my Juiced RipCurrent. Juiced had an upgraded controller with a powered tail light, and that was great, but I had to revert to the stock controller which didn’t come with that option.