Splice motor cable to controller.

[harryS]

The first time I spliced together a 9 pin motor cable nine years ago, my display told me I screwed up by announcing a Hall error, I unwrapped all the heat shrink and found one of the phase wire solder joints had cracked when I did the heat shrink.

Checking continuity won't tell you if you crossed a wire during the splice. You probably didn't do that, but you may have bought a cable that had different color codes. I've purchased close to a dozen 9 pin motor extension cables and never seen them vary. One was so cheap that the alignment arrow was molded off by 30 degrees. Bummer, but it worked. Here is the pinout by color. Check it against the half cable that you didn't use.

Finally, the motor cable has nothing to do with how the display powers up. All the display needs is battery power and it powers up.

 

[Gionnirocket]

The first time I spliced together a 9 pin motor cable nine years ago, my display told me I screwed up by announcing a Hall error, I unwrapped all the heat shrink and found one of the phase wire solder joints had cracked when I did the heat shrink.

Checking continuity won't tell you if you crossed a wire during the splice. You probably didn't do that, but you may have bought a cable that had different color codes. I've purchased close to a dozen 9 pin motor extension cables and never seen them vary. One was so cheap that the alignment arrow was molded off by 30 degrees. Bummer, but it worked. Here is the pinout by color. Check it against the half cable that you didn't use.

View attachment 196307

Finally, the motor cable has nothing to do with how the display powers up. All the display needs is battery power and it powers up.

Good advise @harryS... Your experience with hub motors is evident.
But I have to ask.. Why wouldn't a continuity test reveal a crossed/broken wire?
Each wire does go to a specific pin and consequently the same termination point in the controller.
¿èSplain?

 

[PCeBiker]

The motor cable connector itself may have the bad connection (bent, corroded, burnt pins?), then you need to test the wires on both sides of the connector.

The wires going into the motor are connected to circuits that make a continuity test difficult.

Even the 9 Volts applied by an ohm meter to test continuity (most Multimeters use a 9 Volt battery), can wreck a hal sensor that runs off 5 Volts.
5 Volts is kinda the standard that operates switches and sensors.

 

[PedalUma]

alignment arrow

Why do they put the black 5HIT on the black 5HIT? I did a trike controller yesterday. You are connecting upside down in a dark hole and where is the friggin' little black arrow?

On some builds I have gone through and touched each connector arrow with a yellow ink pen before starting. And it is more accurate to mark at the notch and rail because the arrow can be off by the amount of one pin and then you wreck the connection.

 

[Slaphappygamer]

…But I have to ask.. Why wouldn't a continuity test reveal a crossed/broken wire?
¿èSplain?

Say you got a cat5 cable. The tips of the blue and orange are crossed. When you test on the blue pair, pair looks good. When you test the orange, it looks good as well. The different will be that both tips go twice as far as the rings. If you notice that, then you can test across both tips and you’ll see the short.

 

[harryS]

Good advise @harryS... Your experience with hub motors is evident.
But I have to ask.. Why wouldn't a continuity test reveal a crossed/broken wire?
Each wire does go to a specific pin and consequently the same termination point in the controller.
¿èSplain?

I figured he was just checking to see that each pin on the cable had a connection `to somewhere on the controller.

Come to think of it, I don't think the controller can tell when a sensor wire is misplaced. It can only tell when a sensor wire doesn't change voltage,

 

[PCeBiker]

Why do they put the black 5HIT on the black 5HIT? I did a trike controller yesterday. You are connecting upside down in a dark hole and where is the friggin' little black arrow?

Yeah, that sucks.

I just look for the alignment pin and notch and line them up.
They're a lot easier to see than the arrows.

The pins are recessed a bit so you can rotate the connectors slightly until the alignment pin goes into the notch without bending the pins.

I pack all my connectors with dielectric grease to seal and protect the connections.
It makes the connectors easier to connect and disconnect as well.

 

[PCeBiker]

Come to think of it, I don't think the controller can tell when a sensor wire is misplaced. It can only tell when a sensor wire doesn't change voltage,

I had my firing order wrong when I wired in my KT controller, and I didn't get any errors.
The motor just didn't work.

So I'm thinking that James has a broken connection on one of sensor wires.

Perhaps even the +5V or ground that powers the sensors?

 

[PedalUma]

dielectric grease

 

[PCeBiker]

A $15 tester can check your hal sensors.

This video shows how to test hal sensors using a Voltmeter, so you don't need the ebike tester.

 

[PedalUma]

My cargo bike build is almost finished getting its DM02. I am soldering inside the battery holder. Then I will trim extra wire to the display. Then programing and testing. It got a Box 4 eight-speed 11-42 groupset.
It has the range of an 11-speed but with a thicker a cheaper chain to maintain.

 

[Gionnirocket]

Ok guys... Whenever doing a continuity test you not only test pin to expected pin but pin to all pins.
AND FIRST you isolate the cable... Meaning you disconnect it from the hardware, in this case the controller and motor. Very easy to get false readings especially when dealing with things like motor windings and electronics.
Then you test Pin 1 to the correct pin on the other end.
Then you cross check it against all other pins to be sure you don't have a short.
You do this for all pins

 

[Gionnirocket]

Say you got a cat5 cable. The tips of the blue and orange are crossed. When you test on the blue pair, pair looks good. When you test the orange, it looks good as well. The different will be that both tips go twice as far as the rings. If you notice that, then you can test across both tips and you’ll see the short.

On a typical Cat 5 test you not only test that each wire pin to pin for crossed /shorted /incorrect pin... but you test for cross talk caused by damage or un_twisting the pair too much at termination. Then there's the bandwidth capacity for too long a run.

 

[PedalUma]

Crosstalk is a thing with Specialized bikes. They will jam a wire mess back on itself two or three times inside the down tube to make the exterior look clean. It is like polishing the outside of a pot while leaving the putrid mess inside. You get spotty issues. Just like CAT-5 that is not tightly wound right to the connectors. It is also like an electric bass that has unshielded wires adjacent inside. Even though everything is insulated there is quantum shitetr happening between wires. Crosstalk. And even a great instrument will sound crappy and just not work right. Everything you do on the outside will not help.

 

[PCeBiker]

On a typical Cat 5 test

I had ro Google that,..

I guess when testing 5 cats, it can be easy to mix them up ??
Some really do look look the same !!

 

[James Nagy]

The first time I spliced together a 9 pin motor cable nine years ago, my display told me I screwed up by announcing a Hall error, I unwrapped all the heat shrink and found one of the phase wire solder joints had cracked when I did the heat shrink.

Checking continuity won't tell you if you crossed a wire during the splice. You probably didn't do that, but you may have bought a cable that had different color codes. I've purchased close to a dozen 9 pin motor extension cables and never seen them vary. One was so cheap that the alignment arrow was molded off by 30 degrees. Bummer, but it worked. Here is the pinout by color. Check it against the half cable that you didn't use.

View attachment 196307

Finally, the motor cable has nothing to do with how the display powers up. All the display needs is battery power and it powers up.

 

[James Nagy]

Found my mistake, what a dummy. I used the female end of an extention cable to splice in and didn't take in consideration that the wiring would be just the opposite when the two cables are connected.

 

[stompandgo]

Found my mistake, what a dummy. I used the female end of an extention cable to splice in and didn't take in consideration that the wiring would be just the opposite when the two cables are connected.

A classic mistake. I've done it many times myself.

 

[Gionnirocket]

Found my mistake, what a dummy. I used the female end of an extention cable to splice in and didn't take in consideration that the wiring would be just the opposite when the two cables are connected.

It's the Small Details Norton!
And why you conduct a continuity test as I describe earlier.

Glad you're rolliń again!
VLOF.. Rotate!

 

[PedalUma]

I just test rode that cargo bike with the DM02. It is so much fun, I am laughing. What a blast. I still need to shorten the display wire and program the display to match the battery, so the readout is accurate. It shows 1/2 a bar when it should show 3 full bars. It is thinking that it has a low 52V instead of a 3/4 full 48V.