Hello everyone. I am a new member. My speedrid has no power. Per my request the seller sent me a new controller but sat in my mail box for 10 days while I was away. In Florida the mailboxes are small ovens in the heat. I read about the display could be the problem but it is a sealed unit. I was reading the voltage at the light connection 48v and may have caused the problem (short). The seller told me that it used the UART protocol so I have ordered a new one. Will be here on Thursday. I did buy a KT controller and display but no help. The motor has a KD number but thinking the entire system is tuned as a unit and replacing any. Component that is not Speedrid won’t work. Any comments would be appreciated. Dave
Speedrid 26” Fat tire no power
- Thread starter Kilowatt1
- Start date
indianajo
Well-Known Member
Most hub drive bikes are interchangeable at the motor. There are different connectors to the motor, based on the time sold. 2018, 3 each .157" bullet connectors for the phases, 6 pin white block with 5 wires for the hall effect pickup. Some motors have 3 ring terminals for the phases. 2020 hall effect wires move to a smaller black 5 pin connector. 2022 or later 11 pin juli connector, round with complete coverage from the rain. 1000 watt and greater 2022 and later motors have a different juli connector with bigger pins for the phase wires, and sometimes another pin for a temperature sensor.
I have Uber jump takeout motors that the hall effect and phase wires were reversed to prevent theft. Juli connector. Normal phase is yellow green blue, hall effect yellow green blue with the yellow lined up with the red power wire.
DIsplays and controllers have to be matched, software is updated all the time.
You haven't proved that the battery power is getting to the controller yet. Poking a hole with 2 sharp meter probes of a DVM is one way to read this.
No power can also be miswiring of the "door switch" circuit, or the throttle circuit, or the PAS pickup circuit. Door switch has to get low current battery voltage for the motor to run. I derive this voltage from the burglar alarm power, the red one, through a 1 k ohm resistor. Door switch has to be unpowered to keep the controller from running down the battery in a couple of idle days. I use a toggle switch. Some throttles have this switch built in.
Lack of PAS 3 wires can cause an error on the display and no action. I haven't noticed any sort of consistency of wire order or color on pas pickups between controllers. Brake switch problems can cause lack of motor power. 2018 brake switches were normally closed, 2020 or later brake switches appear to be normally open. I'm still having trouble with this, but have recently found out "high brake" input is 12v brake "low brake" input is 5 v brake.
Not sure 150 deg of a mailbox would damage a controller. Certainly the cheap controllers have **** main capacitors, the 470 uf @ 63 v or higher. They leak like sieves. Big spark when replug to battery after being unplugged from battery for 30 seconds. After I have a controller working I usually replace the main capacitors with same size from industrial suppliers nichicon, rubicon, panasonic, kemet, or vishay. This can make the unplugged time be 10 minutes before the spark happens at second connection of power.
I have Uber jump takeout motors that the hall effect and phase wires were reversed to prevent theft. Juli connector. Normal phase is yellow green blue, hall effect yellow green blue with the yellow lined up with the red power wire.
DIsplays and controllers have to be matched, software is updated all the time.
You haven't proved that the battery power is getting to the controller yet. Poking a hole with 2 sharp meter probes of a DVM is one way to read this.
No power can also be miswiring of the "door switch" circuit, or the throttle circuit, or the PAS pickup circuit. Door switch has to get low current battery voltage for the motor to run. I derive this voltage from the burglar alarm power, the red one, through a 1 k ohm resistor. Door switch has to be unpowered to keep the controller from running down the battery in a couple of idle days. I use a toggle switch. Some throttles have this switch built in.
Lack of PAS 3 wires can cause an error on the display and no action. I haven't noticed any sort of consistency of wire order or color on pas pickups between controllers. Brake switch problems can cause lack of motor power. 2018 brake switches were normally closed, 2020 or later brake switches appear to be normally open. I'm still having trouble with this, but have recently found out "high brake" input is 12v brake "low brake" input is 5 v brake.
Not sure 150 deg of a mailbox would damage a controller. Certainly the cheap controllers have **** main capacitors, the 470 uf @ 63 v or higher. They leak like sieves. Big spark when replug to battery after being unplugged from battery for 30 seconds. After I have a controller working I usually replace the main capacitors with same size from industrial suppliers nichicon, rubicon, panasonic, kemet, or vishay. This can make the unplugged time be 10 minutes before the spark happens at second connection of power.
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Worked with Speedrid and they are sending a complete replacement electronics package that includes the main wiring harness, controller, display, and the throttle on/off switch. This should fix it. After a few rides I will swap out components to find the cause or just say thanks and not do that. Anyway, pretty great costumer service! I’ll post again when up and running.
Oh well! Speedrid only sent me a new display saying all other parts are back ordered. They also want me to send more photos of the bike like I did before. I am done! I am going back to building my own (DIY). I am replacing everything on the bike; Bafang 48v 750 watt rear hub, DPC-18 display, and hydrolic disk brakes. Most e-bikes coming from China are made for their communities which have much lower speed restrictions hence locking the e-bikes to 20 MPH, etc. Currently fighting with the derailleur with built in torque brace. Not sure if I will keep it. When I am done I will remove the Speedrid name from the frame! I’ll post photos when done.
