Specialized Turbo Vado SL motor removal

ampao

New Member
Region
USA
Hi all!

I'm trying to get into the internals so I can change the gear shift cables on my Vado SL 4. Turns out I cant just push the outer housing through and I might have to remove the motor so I can get to the internals. Anybody have any manuals, guides how to do that?

TIA
 
Sorry I can't help. I figured if I comment it will keep the thread alive long enough for @Brendon@TBSM or @PedalUma or someone who knows what they are talking about to jump in. I do think it's a pretty big job...

I appreciate it. I agree its a big job. I managed to get the just the cap off the bottom lol. I'm this close to just going to the specialized dealer over the weekend.
 
Here is a link to a post with a video showing how to remove the motor from a Levo SL, the process is likely quite similar. I would guess there are other videos on youtube showing the process for the Vado SL.

 
Here is a link to a post with a video showing how to remove the motor from a Levo SL, the process is likely quite similar. I would guess there are other videos on youtube showing the process for the Vado SL.

Like said "someone who knows ... will jump in" is my favorite thing about EBR. Looks like @Winglovespea might also know.
I would still go to my dealer, but I am a coward.
 
Hi all!

I'm trying to get into the internals so I can change the gear shift cables on my Vado SL 4. Turns out I cant just push the outer housing through and I might have to remove the motor so I can get to the internals. Anybody have any manuals, guides how to do that?

TIA
I have touched plenty and ridden many. Rode a Vado yesterday and discussed the distance of sit bones.
Take it to the dealer. Santa Cruz bikes arrive as a box of parts. All the hoses, housings and wires are pulled through the BB during the build. It is amazing what someone can make look easy. Like watching a pro figure skater. Specialized are not quite as involved. On your Specialized it takes someone with experience and for the warranty, dealer certified. They will make it look easy.
 

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Like said "someone who knows ... will jump in" is my favorite thing about EBR. Looks like @Winglovespea might also know.
I would still go to my dealer, but I am a coward.
Hi there!
Flip the whole thing over and it’s just four bolts that hold on the chainring and four more on the motor. (The ring is in the way of one motor bolt.) I did it with a set of Allen wrenches, it looked daunting but was pretty simple.
 
Here is a link to a post with a video showing how to remove the motor from a Levo SL, the process is likely quite similar. I would guess there are other videos on youtube showing the process for the Vado SL.

Thanks, I tried to follow the video as the Vado SL, but doesnt seem to be the same. The swinging part doesnt work.
 
I have touched plenty and ridden many. Rode a Vado yesterday and discussed the distance of sit bones.
Take it to the dealer. Santa Cruz bikes arrive as a box of parts. All the hoses, housings and wires are pulled through the BB during the build. It is amazing what someone can make look easy. Like watching a pro figure skater. Specialized are not quite as involved. On your Specialized it takes someone with experience and for the warranty, dealer certified. They will make it look easy.
Yeah this is what I ended up doing. Thanks everyone for the replies and insight :)

@Winglovespea how did you get the actual motor off? I took off four bolts from the chain ring, one from the motor cover and eight from the motor and frame. I got as far as removing the cap lol
 
Yeah this is what I ended up doing. Thanks everyone for the replies and insight :)

@Winglovespea how did you get the actual motor off? I took off four bolts from the chain ring, one from the motor cover and eight from the motor and frame. I got as far as removing the cap lol
I miscounted when I said four motor bolts, it looks like six.
Three here:
C5-FB2060-3-DB8-463-D-9-F2-C-C2-C9-D69-ACA28.jpg

and three here:
8004-A272-1-FFE-48-F8-B550-10-A01-FDC86-A6.jpg

The top motor bolt on the drive side is blocked by the chainring, so I took it off with the yellow bolts. The moving crank arms will get out of the way. The ring will rotate and come off over the right crank and pedal.
After those bolts were out, I just wiggled it and the motor came right out. Disconnect the wires inside and you’re free.
 
I miscounted when I said four motor bolts, it looks like six.
Three here:
C5-FB2060-3-DB8-463-D-9-F2-C-C2-C9-D69-ACA28.jpg

and three here:
8004-A272-1-FFE-48-F8-B550-10-A01-FDC86-A6.jpg

The top motor bolt on the drive side is blocked by the chainring, so I took it off with the yellow bolts. The moving crank arms will get out of the way. The ring will rotate and come off over the right crank and pedal.
After those bolts were out, I just wiggled it and the motor came right out. Disconnect the wires inside and you’re free.
Interesting... my motor was pretty much stuck in there when I took those bolts out. No change to wiggle out. I'll give it another try again. Thanks for the insight
 
Another idea that might be faster, maybe...

Remove the housing, leave the cable run through, run the new housing along the cable already going through the bike, once the housing is run, remove the old cable and run the new cable in your new housing.
 
Another idea that might be faster, maybe...

Remove the housing, leave the cable run through, run the new housing along the cable already going through the bike, once the housing is run, remove the old cable and run the new cable in your new housing.
You can shrink tube new housing to old housing. The internals of the frame have guides. I also will use hot glue inside adhesive shrink tube. Put a dot on the end of each housing. let it cool. The heat gun will then bond them together with the adhesive shrink tube on the outside. Pull.
 
Another idea that might be faster, maybe...

Remove the housing, leave the cable run through, run the new housing along the cable already going through the bike, once the housing is run, remove the old cable and run the new cable in your new housing.
Thanks @Brendon@TBSM. Good to see you on the forum again.
 
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