Specialized Turbo Vado SL: An Incredible E-Bike (User Club)

[Stefan Mikes]

So?

There is something fundamentally different in geometries of MTBs and bikes similar to Vado SL. For instance, an MTB frame is made for a dropper that allows for a long travel while gravel bikes (which are similar to Vado SL) allow for a short travel, some 50 mm. I must clearly say I used to own an e-MTB with a long travel dropper, tested some more but also demo rode a Specialized Diverge EVO, which only allowed for a short travel gravel dropper seat-post.

My XLC dropper is just 80 mm and you are talking of 150 mm?
Isn't the 27.2 mm Fox Transfer 70 mm travel max?

Just saying.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Also. After several years, the high pressure cartridge of a dropper post must be replaced. I had to do it for the OneUp V2 dropper of the Trance E+ (an e-MTB).

 

[Nubnub]

The Fox Transfer claims to be fully user-serviceable without special tools. I'll need a shock pump to keep the pressure topped up.

Main thing is to keep the seatpost/dropper seal clean. Easy to eyeball and wipe down when needed. For a fully fendered rear wheel, I would think the post stays pretty clean and your servicing intervals are very much extended compared to a primary off pavement mtb usage would be. Even my Creo 2 with no fenders, the dropper is working fine. I do make sure to always (meaning once in awhile) keep the seatpost/seal clean.

 

[Jeremy McCreary]

Fox Transfer mechanical dropper out on the SL 1
This dropper requires a cable connection inside the seat tube. And as @Stefan Mikes predicted, my LBS gurus said there's go way to get a cable there on this bike. It's an authorized Specialized dealer.

Too bad — the Transfer would've been perfect for me otherwise.

That leaves 2 options: (1) a wireless solution totaling $800 or more, or (2) a no-cable mechanical dropper actuated by a lever under the saddle.

Despite warnings from @Rás Cnoic and @Stefan Mikes , I'm going to give (2) a try. The LBS mechanic has a bike with the $100 KS eTen lever dropper and thinks it might still be of some use to me.

We simulated the stopped footing I'd get with the 27.2 mm eTen's 100 mm of travel, and it might well be all I need. Now to apply the Park Tool fitting method linked above. If that's a go with this 410 mm dropper, I'll take the $100 gamble.

Thanks again for all the help.

 

[Jeremy McCreary]

Main thing is to keep the seatpost/dropper seal clean. Easy to eyeball and wipe down when needed. For a fully fendered rear wheel, I would think the post stays pretty clean and your servicing intervals are very much extended compared to a primary off pavement mtb usage would be. Even my Creo 2 with no fenders, the dropper is working fine. I do make sure to always (meaning once in awhile) keep the seatpost/seal clean.

Thanks! Which dropper are you using on your Creo 2?

 

[edobici_forza]

Main thing is to keep the seatpost/dropper seal clean. Easy to eyeball and wipe down when needed. For a fully fendered rear wheel, I would think the post stays pretty clean and your servicing intervals are very much extended compared to a primary off pavement mtb usage would be. Even my Creo 2 with no fenders, the dropper is working fine. I do make sure to always (meaning once in awhile) keep the seatpost/seal clean.

Good points @Nubnub
Jeremy, the Creo 2 Comp stock dropper has been a TranzX Hot Lap, with 50mm of travel.

The high end S-Works Creo 2 comes with SRAM Reverb AXS XPLR Dropper,
the price is very high for AXS droppers when purchased separately. They are so great though, I have an AXS dropper on my MTB.

On my Creo 2, I installed a PNW Rainier 100mm cabled dropper which meets my needs, it works well. I use it all of the time since I ride some steeper chunky trails, and want the seat out of the way. I also drop at when in major busy intersections so I can firmly have both feet on the pavement. PNW also has a 125mm travel version. PNW also have an externally cabled version. So take a look at PNW as well. I do not have experience with the Fox droppers, but they have improved since the early MTB versions.

Oh, I have a paddle actuated dropper for my Hakka MX. 100mm TranzX Jump Seat. While great for changing trail terrain, I would not recommend for using on paved roads, in traffic. I have not used it in years as the Hakka is now my road bike, and I have a carbon seat post.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

SRAM Reverb AXS XPLR

Which is either 50 or 75 mm of travel for exorbitant money I've found my August 2024 note, in which I wrote I was unable to set my feet firmly on the ground with the 80 mm travel; I also described the same procedure as Ras did in his post: the dropper would be activated with the paddle for a terrain change.

A 100 mm dropper (if it fits) could be adequate. And... a hundred is not a high price to learn

 

[edobici_forza]

Which is either 50 or 75 mm of travel for exorbitant money I've found my August 2024 note, in which I wrote I was unable to set my feet firmly on the ground with the 80 mm travel; I also described the same procedure as Ras did in his post: the dropper would be activated with the paddle for a terrain change.

A 100 mm dropper (if it fits) could be adequate. And... a hundred is not a high price to learn

Yes, 50-75mm is adequate for some bikes, for some anatomies. I myself only have a 30in inseam. But still the Creo's stock 50mm dropper was inadequate for my riding, so I changed mine to 100mm.
The paddle type is workable, it is just a slower process compared to remote actuated types. I would only use it for drastic changes on a trail. The seat rail stack is more than a typical seat post so, I get hardly any flex. the photo below shows the dropper main body slammed, but the post is only partially down.
The AXS droppers are so fast ( I have the first generation x2, so I bet the newer versions are even faster ) but yeah the price is insane! mine was included on my MTB build.

Edit: just looked at my Creo 2 Comp and the dropper cable enters at the upper section of down tube, next to the 2 cables for the assist blip remote buttons. But I know you and Jeremy both have Aluminum frames, so likely the space may not be available alongside the battery?

 

[Jeremy McCreary]

The paddle type is workable, it is just a slower process compared to remote actuated types. I would only use it for drastic changes on a trail.

Many say it's not workable in traffic. My mechanic says it might be. The 27.2 x 410 mm KS eTen with lever and 100 mm of travel may be too long. We'll see.

Edit: just looked at my Creo 2 Comp and the dropper cable enters at the upper section of down tube, next to the 2 cables for the assist blip remote buttons. But I know you and Jeremy both have Aluminum frames, so likely the space may not be available alongside the battery?

A dropper cable would have to enter my SL 1 frame via one of the side ports at the top of the down tube, but neither has room for an extra cable. And even if they did, the cable would have to get past the battery and motor to enter the seat tube from below. My mechanic says no way.

Also no way to get an external cable into the lower seat tube to connect to the dropper. So no cables on the SL 1.

The cable-free options would still have to fit within the SL 1's the max insertable length, which I'll have to determine before trying either a wireless or lever-actuated workaround. This could be why the Creo's travel is so short.