Specialized Turbo Vado SL: An Incredible E-Bike (User Club)

If I could be helpful, I would recommend setting ECO to 55/55%. It is the 1x assistance. Just keep this single mode and you will be rewarded with a long range. Or, set it to 50/50%. The 55/55% is my default riding assistance.

You didn't report the Elevation Gain, did you?
 
The Latest Iteration of My Fearless: A Flat Handlebar Gravel E-Bike
The work has been completed :)

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The blade on the rear is an Ass Savers Win Wing Gravel 2 mudguard. It is intended for riding gravel races on a dry weather. "Why dry?" you might ask. It is usual to meet puddles, mud or loose material on a gravel race on a dry day. The product of Sweden (!!!) protects your backside and the frame against these impurities. If it rains, I can quicky replace the Ass Savers with SKS Speedrockers mudguards. What to do when it is pouring? Ride out on the full fender Vado 6.0 :)

I wonder where I could burn more money :D An electronic Shimano XTR Di2 drivetrain? Will it make me a better cyclist? :)
 
In case anyone was wondering, I updated my display and motor on my SL 5.0 at my LBS today. Not sure what, if anything, it fixed. Last update I did was over a year ago when there was an update to allow 80% charge.

The tech did have to do some kind of motor calibration procedure with the chained removed as part of the motor update.

I don't have any version numbers or notes, because we aren't allowed to see that anymore 😢
 
Stefan Mikes said:
The Latest Iteration of My Fearless: A Flat Handlebar Gravel E-Bike
The work has been completed :)

View attachment 196648
View attachment 196649

The blade on the rear is an Ass Savers Win Wing Gravel 2 mudguard. It is intended for riding gravel races on a dry weather. "Why dry?" you might ask. It is usual to meet puddles, mud or loose material on a gravel race on a dry day. The product of Sweden (!!!) protects your backside and the frame against these impurities. If it rains, I can quicky replace the Ass Savers with SKS Speedrockers mudguards. What to do when it is pouring? Ride out on the full fender Vado 6.0 :)

I wonder where I could burn more money :D An electronic Shimano XTR Di2 drivetrain? Will it make me a better cyclist? :)
Click to expand...
One of the best upgrades on did on my bike was Sram AXS. Love how smooth it is. I'm sure you won't go electronic because you are the opposite of me 😜

Coincidentally I met a guy on the trail today with DI2 and his battery was dead 😃
 
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mogulman said:
I'm sure you won't go electronic because you are the opposite of me 😜
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Oh, @mogulman don't judge me wrong :) I love a good thing when I see it! Rode a SRAM AXS bike once and was amazed! I think of a Shimano XTR Di2 because I like pulling a lever on upshifting.
My only concern is: Will I find a right Microspline freehub body to match my rear hub?

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The charge in a Di2 seatpost battery literally lasted me months of training and racing, yet I carry a charger in my official's bag because racers can be stupid and forget to charge their bike.
 
Jeremy McCreary said:
I can help you with that.
;^}
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It was only my usual night fantasizing :) The electronic drivetrain won't make me a better cyclist; and the M9050 is generally unavailable :) Interestingly, the M9050 SGS is an 11-speed derailleur, not 12-speed! It allows a 46T granny gear while my M5100 cassette is 11-51!
Besides: the seller has refunded the money on the Wahoo Roam 3 return!
 
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Stefan Mikes said:
If I could be helpful, I would recommend setting ECO to 55/55%. It is the 1x assistance. Just keep this single mode and you will be rewarded with a long range. Or, set it to 50/50%. The 55/55% is my default riding assistance.

You didn't report the Elevation Gain, did you?
Click to expand...

55/55 might be a bit much since most of the trails around here are basically flat.
There are a few steep inclines here and there, but then I'll just push the power up to the Sport default, which I think is 60/60.
I might try 45/45.

The total elevation gain on this ride was 952 ft (290 m).
I did this same ride again today and amazingly the elapsed ride time was within 60 seconds of the previous ride, even though I thought I was taking it easier / slower.
 
Cycologist said:
55/55 might be a bit much since most of the trails around here are basically flat.
There are a few steep inclines here and there, but then I'll just push the power up to the Sport default, which I think is 60/60.
I might try 45/45.

The total elevation gain on this ride was 952 ft (290 m).
I did this same ride again today and amazingly the elapsed ride time was within 60 seconds of the previous ride, even though I thought I was taking it easier / slower.
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You could do up to 116 km on the Main + RE at 55/55 if you rode slower 😃 At least that was what I could do when the batteries were new but my leg power is low.
 
mogulman said:
I tried 60/60, but I really need 60/100 to keep going 80 rpm cadence on the hills here in CO mountains.
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Lived in SE Denver for 18 yrs. Sure wish I'd had an ebike then! Where are you riding in the mountains?

Sounds like we're both cadence-priority riders. All my gear and assist mode choices target a knee- and motor-friendly 85-95 rpm in the hilly terrain here in coastal San Diego County. Grades of 7-10% are fairly common but generally well under a mile long. Few long climbs like you probably have.

So far, the SL's factory tunings have worked pretty well here: ECO = 35/35, SPORT = 60/60, and TURBO = 100/100. Ride in OFF 30-40% of the time now. Battery range is seldom an issue.

But at 10 months since purchase, time to revisit those tunings in hope of spinning above 95 rpm less often on flats and lesser grades. After lots of testing with MicroTune today, cut ECO and SPORT back to 30/30 and 55/55, respectively. This keeps the 3 modes evenly spaced in a proportional sense. We'll see how cadence reacts.
 
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I'm in Gypsum, CO. Near Beaver Creek ski resort. I had a Cannondale Quick Carbon 2 flat bar road bike when I moved here from the Denver area. It was fine for about 15 miles or so, but I'm in a valley with hills all around. I have nerve damage in my left leg from a lower back fusion about 15 years ago. So my left leg is weaker and gets sore after riding. I also have trouble moving that leg quickly.

I try to focus on pushing that left leg to move more quickly when riding. I try to keep above 80. I'd love to keep above 85 but that's tough for me.

I try not to use Turbo at all, except when I'm starting up crossing a busy intersection where I have to stop. I use ECO and no power but only when I'm going on a longer ride where I'm trying to conserve battery.

I've tried 55/55 and 60/60 quite a bit. I just like leaving it at something and using my gearing the whole time. I guess I can experiment more. I do like going faster because if I go slower, my leg and glutes hurt from the nerve damage over time. So faster rides of 1-3 hours tend to be better for me. Currently 30 miles at around 15-16 mph seems to be a good ride for me. I've done as much as 60 though.
 
mogulman said:
I tried 60/60, but I really need 60/100 to keep going 80 rpm cadence on the hills here in CO mountains.
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Could you determine the actual range (Main + RE) at that setting? Please give Elevation Gain and maximum grades. It would help me greatly on my next gravel race in September!
 
Stefan Mikes said:
Could you determine the actual range (Main + RE) at that setting? Please give Elevation Gain and maximum grades. It would help me greatly on my next gravel race in September!
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Yes but ... I'm going to a beer festival and having some friends over next week. So let's just say.... It may be a bit. I could definitely tell you the amount of beer/hour though 😃
 
mogulman said:
I could definitely tell you the amount of beer/hour though
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I'm in craft beer. On rare occasions I can meet friends for beer, I calculate the volume of pure ethanol I ingested (I do these simple calculations in my mind). Whenever I have exceeded 100 cm3, I say "pass" 😃

Seriously, I need the range information in the middle of September.
 
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