Specialized Turbo Vado SL: An Incredible E-Bike (User Club)

[Stefan Mikes]

I have to argue against all this shock absorption. I like to lift my bike front tire and drop it an inch to see it bounce a bit. That means it's light weight bike to me. And non-shock bikes are more like the bike I rode as a kid - nothing fancy, all arms. Heavy bikes are plushy. The SL is a stallion. Ride accordingly.

Riding rough is the domain of youth. Nowadays, youngsters prefer gravel bikes to full suspension MTBs because (as they say) "riding the full is boring; riding rough means fun". Young body is supple and can stand a lot to experience more fun. None of us will get any younger though.

For me, it was not OK to ride on even slightly cracked asphalt and having had my head shaken. Or, riding over a short curb or a speed-bump and yell from pain in my lower back. I think I can deserve some comfort in my age.

Zooming on "fully suspended" Vado SL means a lot of pleasure. You're riding on rough asphalt, you don't suffer but rather enjoy how the suspension works for you. Riding at full speed onto the speed bump faster than any car could -- painlessly -- is true fun for me.

A riding buddy of mine is a dedicated gravel cyclist. Recently, he asked me of my honest opinion on Redshift ShockStop stem. He's not getting any younger either although he's only in his late forties.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Stems - Well, actually I don’t know. Mechanically it’s a bit complicated. FutureShock is an axial loaded spring with vertical travel, works to some extent even without your hands on the bars because it’s preloaded by the bolt and the weight of the bike + rider already. Whereas the ShockStop stem is a horizontal cantilever with radial movement and is only loaded according to how much weight is placed on the free ends. I don’t think anybody can definitely say how they’ll interoperate until it’s tried or modeled. It’s pretty cheap to get the stem combo with seatpost too . If I decide on the seat post I might try it!

Voltman: The thing is the harmonic oscillations created by two different suspension systems used together are hard to predict and might lead to not only worse vibration dampening but also make your ride unstable. The intention of a suspension designer is to make something that works well on its own. (You don't want to create a pogo-stick at your bike's front, do you).

Just ride your SL 5.0 with Future Shock and enjoy how good it works! (Because I'm sure it is an excellent product). Suspension post is a good idea unless your existing one is made of carbon fibre. In the latter case be aware CF has very good shock absorbing properties itself.

 

[ActionJackson]

Just ride your SL 5.0 with Future Shock and enjoy how good it works!

Yes I’ll try that first of course, however curiosity will get the best of me eventually

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Yes I’ll try that first of course, however curiosity will get the best of me eventually

When I think of it more Voltman, I guess one of the suspension components (Redshift) won't simply work not having a solid base below...

 

[ActionJackson]

I guess one of the suspension components (Redshift) won't simply work not having a solid base below...

Yes exactly. A guess . I think the only thing that would convince me either way is a good Solidworks simulation or actual testing.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Yes exactly. A guess . I think the only thing that would convince me either way is a good Solidworks simulation or actual testing.

I can visualize processes in my mind pretty well
(Each of these two suspension pieces requires a rigid anchor at either side to work).

 

[Cramer Long]

I have to argue against all this shock absorption. I like to lift my bike front tire and drop it an inch to see it bounce a bit. That means it's light weight bike to me. And non-shock bikes are more like the bike I rode as a kid - nothing fancy, all arms. Heavy bikes are plushy. The SL is a stallion. Ride accordingly.

LOL The vado is the stallion . The Sl is the young male horse who herds together with other non full power horses . It's fast colt but doesn't have the stamina it's father does .

 

[ActionJackson]

It's fast colt but doesn't have the stamina it's father does .

At least it’s not a jackass from the Trek farm or donkey from Cannondale valley!

 

[Cramer Long]

At least it’s not a jackass from the Trek farm or donkey from Cannondale valley!

Not sure what you mean . I have Trek's and Specialized both. But I do think Specialized is pushing all the buttons in the E-bike Market . Trek while good seems to just be making E-bikes because they have to

 

[ActionJackson]

Not sure what you mean . I have Trek's and Specialized both. But I do think Specialized is pushing all the buttons in the E-bike Market . Trek while good seems to just be making E-bikes because they have to

Just playing around with the horse theme

 

[Calcoaster]

Hi, The MSRP I paid through Specialized was actually a bit cheaper than an LBS authorized dealer because Specialized picked up the tab for road sticker registration.

HUGE difference between 5.0 and 4.0!
FutureShock + Carbon Fork
12 speed vs 10 speed
Deore XT vs Deore Shifter and Derailleur
Higher grade cassette
Shimano Chain
Carbon seatpost (EQ only)
Better rims
Higher spec Tektro brakes
Higher spec headlight
Higher spec saddle

5 cassette is 10-45t vs 4 cassette at 11-42t. 5 is faster by a bit and a bit more torque on a given grade at a given cadence. Doesn’t seem like a huge difference until you’re passing up a rider on a 4

In my opinion it’s an entirely different bike and great value. You can compare side by side on the website:

Product Compare

www.specialized.com

There is a detailed document describing max loads on the bike, also one specific to child carriers. I will look today. Note the carrier is a bit special because it’s integrated with the fenders on the EQ version. I’m not sure you’d need to change the rack though - it’s racktime compatible btw. Also rear wheel cargo limit is 55lbs/25kg.

Update: @aj1 - OK I had a look at the child seat addendum. Basically it’s a few warnings and disclaimers saying legally the bike was designed for one person and you assume all the risk. Also apparently the carrier/rear rack can carry 25 kg max rated. So really it’s just a matter of how you would go about mounting the child carrier.

I’m still deciding between the Vado SL 4 bs 5 goes

 

[Calcoaster]

I’m still deciding between the Vado 4 vs 5 and have a few questions:

It sounds like the 4.0 with the addition of a shockstop stem cancels the benefit of the 5’s future shock. The main difference I see besides the front end is the group set. I’m familiar with road bike group sets 105, ultegra and dura ace, but not so much with the gravel/mt. Bike sets. Can someone tell me the differences between the Deore and SLX? I know the 5.0 has two more cogs but is there a noticeable jump up in shifting quality?
Specialized confirmed that none of the US Vado SL models have a carbon seatpost (the US web description has a typo), so no difference there. The wheel descriptions are different but vague. The few other differences seem pretty insignificant.
I’d like to hear about the slx groupset difference, if the stopshock stem really does the job, or anything else I am missing.
thanks!

 

[ActionJackson]

It sounds like the 4.0 with the addition of a shockstop stem cancels the benefit of the 5’s future shock. The main difference I see besides the front end is the group set. I’m familiar with road bike group sets 105, ultegra and dura ace, but not so much with the gravel/mt. Bike sets. Can someone tell me the differences between the Deore and SLX? I know the 5.0 has two more cogs but is there a noticeable jump up in shifting quality?
Specialized confirmed that none of the US Vado SL models have a carbon seatpost (the US web description has a typo), so no difference there. The wheel descriptions are different but vague. The few other differences seem pretty insignificant.
I’d like to hear about the slx groupset difference, if the stopshock stem really does the job, or anything else I am missing.
thanks!

Price difference in Japan was only 25% premium, and then this 5 was the only bike available. Honestly if I had to choose and had a choice between a 4 or a 5 I might as easily taken the 4. All of the differences are minor in comparison to the major things that it has in common. For me the biggest advantage of the bike was the weight, the other day when I returned from the bike shop I was most happy with the fact I could load it and unload it from the roof of my car. That’s a MAJOR advantage, that I couldn’t get with any other bike in the price class of even the 4. If you get the 4, I would suggest strongly considering the EQ. That’s fantastic value. Whatever your decision don’t park on it and dither - Specialized told me there are none available in Japan or Asia until 2022.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

As I indeed have experience with Deore (10sp), SLX (11sp), and Deore XT (12sp), I think I can answer your question.

As I am a person paranoiac about the cadence, I'd be more happy with the 12-speed. Still, I have accepted the 10-speed and am happy to think of how less I will pay for the new chain, and later, the new cassette

More important is EQ or non-EQ. If you plan riding in forests a lot, I recommend the non-EQ. DryTech fenders are excellent but a small stick can get between the fender and tyre, block it, and do some damage (I actually have experienced that!). On the other hand, the non-EQ with its saddle integrated tail-light makes it hard to replace, say, the saddle or the seat-post. Decisions, decisions...

Having said all the above, the best advice I can give is: Select the bike by colour you love. That will be something you will see every single day. And that is something you cannot change later. Honestly!

 

[Rincon]

The wheel descriptions are different but vague.

The 5.0 wheels are tubeless ready. I switched my Vado 5.0 EQ over to tubeless. The 4.0 wheels are not compatible. The 12 speed is well worth the upgrade to me. You have higher top end and a lower granny gear. If you have hills, you’ll appreciate riding up instead of bailing out and pushing. Totally depends on you and the hill, but lower gears are always appreciated.

 

[Rincon]

As I indeed have experience with Deore (10sp), SLX (11sp), and Deore XT (12sp), I think I can answer your question.

Stefan That table is backwards. The 10 speed should read “Shimano Deore, 10spd, 11-42t”. You’ve got it listed as 10-45t.

The Vado 5.0 is “Shimano SLX, Hyperglide+, 12-speed, 10-45t.” You’ve got it listed as 11-42.

I beg to differ on maintenance costs as well. If you want to see “high” costs, buy a SRAM Red or Shimano Dura Ace drivetrain. They’re not really expensive, but they do define high for the category.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

The 5.0 wheels are tubeless ready. I switched my Vado 5.0 EQ over to tubeless. The 4.0 wheels are not compatible.

That is a very personal choice. You either love or hate the tubeless. No other way

The 12 speed is well worth the upgrade to me. You have higher top end and a lower granny gear. If you have hills, you’ll appreciate riding up instead of bailing out and pushing. Totally depends on you and the hill, but lower gears are always appreciated.

I have compared gear-inches on both systems and the difference is very small. Neither of the drive-trains here is even close to the MTB 20 gear-inches. Replacing the chainring with the 38T gives far more.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Stefan That table is backwards. The 10 speed should read “Shimano Deore, 10spd, 11-42t”. You’ve got it listed as 10-45t.

The Vado 5.0 is “Shimano SLX, Hyperglide+, 12-speed, 10-45t.”

Noted, corrected. Thank you!

 

[Rincon]

That is a very personal choice. You either love or hate the tubeless. No other way

Going tubeless is a personal choice. Having that choice is not. If you buy the 4.0, you have no choice. Reminds me of Nietzsche. He walks into a café and orders a cup of coffee, no cream. The waitress says, I’m sorry, we’re out of cream. Would you like it without milk instead?

 

[Rincon]

I have compared gear-inches on both systems and the difference is very small.

I’ve ridden them. I have a 10-50 cassette on both my Creo and my Salsa Warroad. I ride through those gears all the time. The bigger the gear, the easier it gets. A 38t chainring would just amplify the difference. I’ve tried that too: 38, 42, and 46t chainrings. Calculators don’t measure the reality of the mountain. You’re a flatlander, so I understand it isn’t a big concern for you. If you deal with hills then the lower gearing is a big deal. That Vado 5.0 45t bailout gear is pretty generous. With a motor, that may be all a climber needs.

Twenty gear inches is very low. It isn’t really necessary unless you’re going fully loaded bikepacking. I think my Warroad is around 22.8 gear inches. That’s also very low also especially for an unladen 18 lb bike. But horses for courses as they say. I ride in the mountains and when I’m in that 50t gear, I’m sure glad it’s there.