Specialized Turbo Vado SL: An Incredible E-Bike (User Club)

Nice, those days are behind me.

This week I need to run the F800ST and get most of the old gas out of the tank by putting some maintenance miles on it.

Haven't ridden it at all in 18 months; at 68 I lost the "bug" a few years ago after deciding 2 wheel time on a bicycle was better for me as I head towards 70.

Loved riding though; started in 1972 on a Honda SS50 in Belgium while in High School.

Still wish I had the bike to be honest.
We're also BMW riders. We started riding in 1977 with Debbie on the back, then in 1988 she started riding her own bike, a BMW K75T. She rode it to Alaska that year.
Since then we both have had 1991 K75Ss, 2003 K1200RSs, 2011 K1300Ss, 2016 R1200RSs and now 2022 R1250RS.
I'm 69 and she's 68. She's be done riding soon because of arthritis and some tendon problems. She does not seem to be interested in going back to riding two up.
 
While the clutch can be valuable in a rough terrain, it is all in all the good chainring that holds the chain in place!
 
We're also BMW riders. We started riding in 1977 with Debbie on the back, then in 1988 she started riding her own bike, a BMW K75T. She rode it to Alaska that year.
Since then we both have had 1991 K75Ss, 2003 K1200RSs, 2011 K1300Ss, 2016 R1200RSs and now 2022 R1250RS.
I'm 69 and she's 68. She's be done riding soon because of arthritis and some tendon problems. She does not seem to be interested in going back to riding two up.
Loved my 1987 K75S, sadly totaled by a wily left turner in 2006; made the mistake of taking my eyes of her wheels.

Here's when I had four bikes; down to one so the 1994 Miata can keep the bike and the Turbo Vado SL 5.0 company in the garage....and my old Schwinn Super Sport.
 

Attachments

  • K75S, TL000S, Nighthawk 750, DRZ400SM.jpg
    K75S, TL000S, Nighthawk 750, DRZ400SM.jpg
    592 KB · Views: 19
Surprised to find yesterday — while trying to clean and lube the SL's chain for the first time — that turning the pedals backwards doesn't move the chain. (Guess you can tell that this is my first mid-drive.)

Q1. Any easy way to do this task without a repair stand or hoist?

Q2. Any compelling reason to use something other than Rock N Roll Gold for both cleaning and lubrication?

Dealer told me yesterday that I should do this weekly in this sandy, salty environment. But realistically, the ONLY way for me to get this job done anywhere close to weekly is to keep it really simple. (I have an unused Park Tool chain degreaser gathering dust if that's a clue.)

Thanks!
 
Surprised to find yesterday — while trying to clean and lube the SL's chain for the first time — that turning the pedals backwards doesn't move the chain. (Guess you can tell that this is my first mid-drive.)

Q1. Any easy way to do this task without a repair stand or hoist?

Q2. Any compelling reason to use something other than Rock N Roll Gold for both cleaning and lubrication?

Dealer told me yesterday that I should do this weekly in this sandy, salty environment. But realistically, the ONLY way for me to get this job done anywhere close to weekly is to keep it really simple. (I have an unused Park Tool chain degreaser gathering dust if that's a clue.)

Thanks!
It was mentioned earlier in the thread, Park Tools has a cleaning tool with a reversible handle.
Can you turn your bike over resting on the seat and bars, then use your Park Tool?
 
My wife recently purchased a Turbo Vado SL 4.0 and it also has the front reflector mounted on top of the light. It didn't make sense to have a reflector on top of a light and went to remove it.
It appears if I remove the reflector the mount will not hold the light tight. Decided to leave it. With a hex key I did snug up the light and reflector. Both were loose.
I'm new to the site and working my way through this thread before doing a Introduction post.
View attachment 185186

View attachment 185187

I removed the reflector. The nylon washers I planned to use as a spacer was slightly too thick so I used 2 stainless washers.
One of the fasteners that holds the light has external threads that thread into a barrel fastener on the other side that has internal threads.
1730666325605.jpeg


1730666345005.jpeg
 
turning the pedals backwards doesn't move the chain
Yes, the gears get disconnected from the crankset.

Q1. Any easy way to do this task without a repair stand or hoist?
Invert the e-bike... :) Let it stand on the handlebars and the saddle. Then you can rotate the cranks in the desired direction.

Q2. Any compelling reason to use something other than Rock N Roll Gold for both cleaning and lubrication?
The best way to degrease the chain is using an automotive brake cleaner fluid spray. After the chain has dried out, you can use any chain lube (generally, these are universal or dry weather or wet weather). Pour a droplet of lube on any chain roller. After finished, wipe the chain so the lube only stays inside the rollers.
 
Well, it's happened again. For the 3rd time now in 42 SL 5.0 rides recorded by the Specialized app, no rider power data was saved.

Yet I saw real-time rider power on the TCU the whole time.

No idea what triggers this error. But this last time, I recall turning on the bike before opening the app, opposite my usual order. Maybe that's a clue.

Thoughts?
 
Saw this video in post # 1,576 for a Specialized seat post clamp with rack attachment. It's 30.6 mm instead of the OEM 30.8 size for the Turbo Vado SL 4.0 step through.

We were in Des Moines yesterday so we stopped in at a bicycle shop that handles Specialized.
I bought one of the Specialized seat post clamps that has the attachment spots for the forward rack mount.
The clamp on Deb's bike shows 30.8 mm and the Specialized clamp showed 30.6.
The shop manager took a seat off a Vado SL 4.0 and made sure the clamp would fit.
I was impressed he took time to check that for me since we're from out of town.
1730850840461.jpeg


1730850879782.jpeg


While there I saw they had the Park Tool chain cleaner with the reversible handle that can also be used on e bikes and bought it.
I've used the regular one for many years and like it.
 
Last edited:
Bigger, better and lighter. :)

Crankbrothers Stamp 1 Gen 2 (Large) pedals compared to the original Vado SL pedals.

View attachment 185510View attachment 185511
I might try a pair of those for my Hybrid.
I wear size 11. Would I be better off with the small or large?
My sandals measure 4 inches across where the cleat would go.
My shoes measure 4.25 inches across where the cleat would go.
 
I might try a pair of those for my Hybrid.
I wear size 11. Would I be better off with the small or large?
My sandals measure 4 inches across where the cleat would go.
My shoes measure 4.25 inches across where the cleat would go.
I suggest the size Large. A lot of feet positions are available. (My shoe size is U.S. 12, and I always had Stamp L).
 
I might try a pair of those for my Hybrid.
I wear size 11. Would I be better off with the small or large?
My sandals measure 4 inches across where the cleat would go.
My shoes measure 4.25 inches across where the cleat would go.

Yep as mentioned above by Stefan the large pedals should suit you fine. I'm about the same size as you (UK 10.5 = US 11.5), and they felt good, with loads of grip, no complaints. :)

This is the size guide on their website.

1731099585641.png
 
The Vado SL delivery pedals are just place holders. They are only slightly better than test ride pedals. They don't even bother to install them on Creo's because they are the first parts changed. I kept them in the junk parts bin when I had a Vado SL and reinstalled when I sold the bike. I am appalled at the Vado SL 2 reviews that mention the pedals but I assume they are just looking for something to complain about.
 
Last edited:
Yep as mentioned above by Stefan the large pedals should suit you fine. I'm about the same size as you (UK 10.5 = US 11.5), and they felt good, with loads of grip, no complaints. :)

This is the size guide on their website.

View attachment 185532

I got the small as I am a EU 43 and they seem perfectly sized for me. Great pedals though, one of those purchases where you cannot see yourself buying any different in the future.

I will be in the market for some clip-ins as an alternative in the new year though. I have another bike holiday in April and I could not keep up on some of the full on road bike ride outs in September as I was just in trainers and flat pedals (on a rented road bike, not my Turbo) and everyone else was in clip-ins and a few had their own bikes shipped over as well. I kept up fine on the routes but the rides always ended in a 3-5km sprint and I could not hold the front runners wheels after about 2km.

Rematch in April - training starts Jan 1st :)
 
The Vado SL delivery pedals are just place holders. They are only slightly better than test ride pedals. They don't even bother to install them on Creo's because they are the first parts changed. I kept them in the junk parts bin when I had a Vado SL and reinstalled when I sold the bike. I am appalled at the Vado SL 2 reviews that mention the pedals but I assume they are just looking for something to complain about.
Most of our bikes over the years came without pedals. When I tried Debbie's Vado SL my feet would slid off the pedals so I replaced them with pedals from one of our old bikes.
These grip better.
1731107151281.jpeg
 
Last edited:
I got the small as I am a EU 43 and they seem perfectly sized for me. Great pedals though, one of those purchases where you cannot see yourself buying any different in the future.

I will be in the market for some clip-ins as an alternative in the new year though. I have another bike holiday in April and I could not keep up on some of the full on road bike ride outs in September as I was just in trainers and flat pedals (on a rented road bike, not my Turbo) and everyone else was in clip-ins and a few had their own bikes shipped over as well. I kept up fine on the routes but the rides always ended in a 3-5km sprint and I could not hold the front runners wheels after about 2km.

Rematch in April - training starts Jan 1st :)

Yeah, I'm impressed with them! I paid just £48 and I feel they are great value at that price. They have virtually all the goodness of the more expensive Stamp 7 pedals but at a third of the price. Plus they're about 25g lighter too! Composite vs Aluminium. :) My Hope pedals on my Frey cost £130 and there's no noticeable difference. Both are excellent, but these will be my go-to pedals in future.

I have a slight fear of clip-ins. Falling over! :D But they do allow you to get the power down! I might try them if I ever buy a racing/drop-bar bike.

Good luck with the rematch 👍
 
The Vado SL delivery pedals are just place holders. They are only slightly better than test ride pedals. They don't even bother to install them on Creo's because they are the first parts changed. I kept them in the junk parts bin when I had a Vado SL and reinstalled when I sold the bike. I am appalled at the Vado SL 2 reviews that mention the pedals but I assume they are just looking for something to complain about.

I like the stock pedals. When they eventually kick back there's less pain than the MTB type. Seem to last.
 
Stock Specialized pedals are surprisingly similar to VP-831P 😊 These cost £31, so are not completely free. Good pedals indeed. However, anyone who has tried Stamps has never gone back to regular pedals like VPs.
------------
I can see BioWheels achievements on Strava. I still suffer from a defeat to my mate Wojtek (47) -- who could win the last e-Sprint race (riding a totally unmodified Vado SL 4.0) if not the fact the winner was younger, stronger, and she rode a more powerful e-bike. Which just proves that the equipment doesn't matter as much as the athlete :)
 
Last edited:
Back