Specialized Turbo Vado/Como/Tero/Tero X User Club

Stefan, high humidity can cause small amounts of corrosion even on plated electrical contacts that those in the battery and frame connectors, no visible condensation required. This can introduce enough contact resistance to introduce spurious signals (gremlins) into the signals reaching the controller to make it look like there's a motor problem but the headlamp, etc continue to operate OK.

I'm using a 2 step process to resolve this on my Vado;

1. Plastic friendly contact cleaner every few months or so, followed by

2. Dielectric grease on the frame and battery contacts.

The cleaner removes contaminates. The dielectric grease minimizes corrosion esp in higher humidity environments.

I haven't had a motor error since I started this. YRMV...😎

BTW - I frequently use battery operated tools around the shop. As the battery packs age they sometimes develop problems 'communicating' with their smart charger, analogous to errors that can develop in an ebike with lots of monitoring firmware. The same cleaner often resolves this problem, but not always. I have had to mechanically clean the contacts on a couple of the battery contacts to resolve issues with the charger reporting errors. I use fine steel wool for this, but I'd use something else for the ebike to keep the metal strands away. I have some fine grit emery cloth that I'd try first.

You guys are making me nervous because I don't do any of the steps on my Vado. I'm not cleaning contacts or using any "stuff" on them. Almost 4,000 miles (6400 km) and running just fine. It's store in dry & temp controlled location. I just ride and charge it. And I'm too wimpy to ride in the rain. Hopefully not missing any preventive maintenance steps. :oops:o_O
 
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You guys are making me nervous because I don't do any of the steps on my Vado. I'm not cleaning contacts or using any "stuff" on them. Almost 4,000 miles (6400 km) and running like just fine. It's store in dry & temp controlled location. I just ride and charge it. And I'm too wimpy to ride in the rain. Hopefully not missing any preventive maintenance steps. :oops:o_O
If it's not broke, don't fix it! My bikes are stored in an unheated shop that gets dusty from other projects. In the winter we get a lot of rain, some snow, and generally cold temps. This is all conductive to contact contamination so I clean them about as often as I clean my chain. YRMV.
 
Today my Vado started flashing LO BAT when my battery was at 29%. ??
Never seen it indicate low battery before. Was out riding Friday and battery was about 25% coming home. No battery warning.
Today I gave it a short charge ( checked before charging, 23% and no warnings) Charged for about 35-40min. to 39%. Rode 9.5km in Eco mode(30/30) with Sport for the last 250m. It’s a 25m climb.
Didn’t look at the display when I arrived at destination. Did not turn off bike. Took som photos and checked display before taking off again. 29% and a low battery warning!
Didn’t really know how to interpret this so I set Eco to 20/30 and rode home and also a couple of laps around the nearest blocks to see if/when I would loose power. Used Turbo and discharged down to 15%. Still full assist in Turbo as far as I can judge. And still LO BAT flashing.
Strange creatures these Vados
Planning to empty battery and give it a full charge ( I seldom charge to 100%) Will do that tomorrow in daylight.
 
I think all these settings might be stored in the TCU, especially the odometer (which is a vital piece of information).
Apparently the wireless TCD's do drop everything. Which bikes use them is beyond me but they are out there. What I really found annoying was that my manual said the same thing, but I didn't lose a thing. Even Mission Control didn't require re-initializing.
I guess Marcela's advice was spot on. Do it real fast.;)
 
Apparently the wireless TCD's do drop everything.
Not so sure. See this:
My Vado 5.0 had been equipped with the older BLOKS display, which was later replaced with the TCD-W by the LBS. (In fact, the LBS had to disassemble and reassemble the bike to be able to do that). After the overhaul, all the information (especially the odometer figure) still were there! So I think the Turbo e-bike settings are not stored in the display but in the TCU, or Turbo Control Unit somewhere inside the bike. Some people say the odometer information is only reset when the motor has been replaced, and it makes a lot of sense. (@Nxkharra: Can you confirm the latter?)

Now, the SL e-bikes as well as the Levo or Kenevo can work completely without the display: everything is stored in the TCU. Same must be true for Vado and Como: the information is display-independent.

I have been trying to look up the TCD/TCD-W user manuals again but it seems the Specialized global website is under update and no manuals can be presently found!

P.S. I found the link to the User Manual: It claims the settings would be erased. I don't think so. (Pairing of devices might be reset).

1602570300958.png
 
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Not so sure. See this:
My Vado 5.0 had been equipped with the older BLOKS display, which was later replaced with the TCD-W by the LBS. (In fact, the LBS had to disassemble and reassemble the bike to be able to do that). After the overhaul, all the information (especially the odometer figure) still were there! So I think the Turbo e-bike settings are not stored in the display but in the TCU, or Turbo Control Unit somewhere inside the bike. Some people say the odometer information is only reset when the motor has been replaced, and it makes a lot of sense. (@Nxkharra: Can you confirm the latter?)

Now, the SL e-bikes as well as the Levo or Kenevo can work completely without the display: everything is stored in the TCU. Same must be true for Vado and Como: the information is display-independent.

I have been trying to look up the TCD/TCD-W user manuals again but it seems the Specialized global website is under update and no manuals can be presently found!

P.S. I found the link to the User Manual: It claims the settings would be erased. I don't think so. (Pairing of devices might be reset).

View attachment 68472
 
Yeah. That's exactly what I was reading but then again I thought your TCU was a typo until I started reading and Yep there is a TCD and a TCU. Maybe by the time I get my new 2024 Turbo Vado 10.0 ZSX I'll have a grasp of some of this.😖
 
All: I'm not sure how it is with your access to the Specialized Website but only the Li-Ion battery document is currently available there for me:

It is quite interesting to see the 604 Wh battery is one of the most lightweight of the ones available to the full-power Turbo e-bikes. A similar Giant battery is 1 kg (2.2 lbs) heavier!
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BREAKING NEWS: The Shimano drive-train replacement parts are disappearing from the market. I was informed in another thread the whole new Shimano production goes for newly manufactured bikes. I needed to buy the replacement 10-12t sprockets for the CS-M7100-12 cassette of my Trance E+. It looks I have been able to buy probably the last sprocket set available in Poland, and there's nothing available to me in German online stores. The situation in your region might be different but it looks the shelves are indeed bare worldwide.

Inspect your chain for wear frequently. Clean the chain, derailleur, the cassette! Or, you might be in trouble soon same as I am...
 
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So... The Trance E+ smallest cassette cogs have been replaced, nice!

Now this: It has turned out the Vado smallest cogs are damaged, too, and these need replacement. That's the weak point of owning N+1 e-bikes... I lost my patience and intend to ride my Vado in gears 1-9, leaving the 10-11 aside for a while. The expensive lesson learnt: Inspect your chain for wear (stretch) with a digital caliper and replace the chain when necessary before the sprocket disaster happens...
 
So... The Trance E+ smallest cassette cogs have been replaced, nice!

Now this: It has turned out the Vado smallest cogs are damaged, too, and these need replacement. That's the weak point of owning N+1 e-bikes... I lost my patience and intend to ride my Vado in gears 1-9, leaving the 10-11 aside for a while. The expensive lesson learnt: Inspect your chain for wear (stretch) with a digital caliper and replace the chain when necessary before the sprocket disaster happens...
Como 5.0. I inspect the chain and replace when it reaches .5. So, chain replaced at 1700 miles and again at about 3200 miles. At the second chain replacement the two smallest cogs needed replacement. Now watching chain stretch and cog wear more closely. To early to tell but it seems that the small cogs may not be well matched for the motor's torque.
 
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