Specialized Turbo Vado/Como/Tero/Tero X User Club

[GuruUno]

HEY did the KLICKFIX UniClip WORK ON YOUR RACK ???

Put it on, not super happy with it, still rocks like the 1st Racktime Snap-it System Pannier Rack Adapter, so....bottom line is unless you have a wider rack, it will rock. My wife's Townie has a wider rack (not RackTime), and the KlickFix is 100% rock solid.
So...here's the video: https://www.dropbox.com/s/xpjfe24asiu52cc/KLICKfix rack wobble.MOV?dl=0
(and a pic)

 

[Stefan Mikes]

My yesterday night ride was infested with "No battery" and "Motor error" messages. The 600 lm headlight was on so the battery contacts should be still clean. Restarting the battery sometimes helped but the situation was improving without my intervention, then the errors were displayed again. I still had some motor support (at the level of Eco) even with the errors. Any ideas?

 

[Brendon@OEB]

I take it your battery had plenty of charge? Was it secure in the battery cradle on the bike? Sounds like a connectivity issue. Since you got the TCD-W upgrade it upgrades the battery cradle too, wonder if it's not connecting as well?

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Brendon, as the powerful headlight was operating the whole time, I'd attribute the issue to electronic gremlins... Or, perhaps it is the time to replace the TCD-W battery?

 

[Marcela]

The led light can operate on a lot less than the motor. I wouldn't discount low voltage via bad connection or faulty contacts between battery and port. Especially since I think you remove your batteries frequently? One reason I like to leave mine installed, I don't think the method of installation and contact for the electrical connections is the best.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Well, I haven't replaced this specific battery for a couple of weeks now because I wanted to equalise the number of charging cycles on both. A lot of moisture in the air recently. Perhaps internal condensation created the bad connection?

 

[PaD]

My yesterday night ride was infested with "No battery" and "Motor error" messages. The 600 lm headlight was on so the battery contacts should be still clean. Restarting the battery sometimes helped but the situation was improving without my intervention, then the errors were displayed again. I still had some motor support (at the level of Eco) even with the errors. Any ideas?

I must remember to look at Mission Control when things like this happens. Since last update my bike has lost motor support three times. The first time was while riding and that time I checked the MC.

Second and third time was at start up. Display was normal and I changed to Eco before riding off. Did not check MC on these occasions, I just restarted and had better luck.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Messages I got from MC recommended restarting the bike after 30 second wait. No idea what happened.

 

[Marcela]

Well, I haven't replaced this specific battery for a couple of weeks now because I wanted to equalise the number of charging cycles on both. A lot of moisture in the air recently. Perhaps internal condensation created the bad connection?

Only if there was standing water in there. Take the battery out and let us know what it looks like. How many miles on bike and cycles on battery?

 

[Sierratim]

Well, I haven't replaced this specific battery for a couple of weeks now because I wanted to equalise the number of charging cycles on both. A lot of moisture in the air recently. Perhaps internal condensation created the bad connection?

Stefan, high humidity can cause small amounts of corrosion even on plated electrical contacts that those in the battery and frame connectors, no visible condensation required. This can introduce enough contact resistance to introduce spurious signals (gremlins) into the signals reaching the controller to make it look like there's a motor problem but the headlamp, etc continue to operate OK.

I'm using a 2 step process to resolve this on my Vado;

1. Plastic friendly contact cleaner every few months or so, followed by

2. Dielectric grease on the frame and battery contacts.

The cleaner removes contaminates. The dielectric grease minimizes corrosion esp in higher humidity environments.

I haven't had a motor error since I started this. YRMV...

BTW - I frequently use battery operated tools around the shop. As the battery packs age they sometimes develop problems 'communicating' with their smart charger, analogous to errors that can develop in an ebike with lots of monitoring firmware. The same cleaner often resolves this problem, but not always. I have had to mechanically clean the contacts on a couple of the battery contacts to resolve issues with the charger reporting errors. I use fine steel wool for this, but I'd use something else for the ebike to keep the metal strands away. I have some fine grit emery cloth that I'd try first.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Only if there was standing water in there. Take the battery out and let us know what it looks like. How many miles on bike and cycles on battery?

The contacts looked good. I've used compressed air to remove any moisture or impurities. There are 2752 miles on the bike and 34 charging cycles on the battery (that's the newer one).

Tim, thank you. Will buy and apply whatever necessary!

 

[BarryS]

Put it on, not super happy with it, still rocks like the 1st Racktime Snap-it System Pannier Rack Adapter, so....bottom line is unless you have a wider rack, it will rock. My wife's Townie has a wider rack (not RackTime), and the KlickFix is 100% rock solid.
So...here's the video: https://www.dropbox.com/s/xpjfe24asiu52cc/KLICKfix rack wobble.MOV?dl=0
(and a pic)

Obviously narrow racks do have their drawbacks with Trunk bags
Bags also make some of the difference. My Bontrager Bag is very sturdily built . Plus it's rectangular vs oblong. My Arkel bag is floppy like what you showed in the video . My Topeak bag is also more ridged . I don't care for how small the side pockets are :That's why I was looking at the time I ran across the Bontrager Bag, I'd dare say in the $100.00 = $130.00 Price range . It's one of the Best if not the best built bag on the market at the moment . It's spacious as well as sturdy . Thanks for the response

 

[Marcela]

That brings up an interesting point re the contacts.

The contacts looked good. I've used compressed air to remove any moisture or impurities. There are 2752 miles on the bike and 34 charging cycles on the battery (that's the newer one).

Tim, thank you. Will buy and apply whatever necessary!

Diaelectric grease is an insulator, it does not conduct electricity. You can use vaseline, or regular grease to the same effect. Vaseline is a conductor. The reason they use brass contacts on both, there should be no galvanic corrosion between the two. Diaelectric grease should be used in the surrounding area to insulate the contacts from atmospheric conditions, not on the contacts themselves.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Thank you Marcela!

 

[PaD]

That brings up an interesting point re the contacts.

Diaelectric grease is an insulator, it does not conduct electricity. You can use vaseline, or regular grease to the same effect. Vaseline is a conductor. The reason they use brass contacts on both, there should be no galvanic corrosion between the two. Diaelectric grease should be used in the surrounding area to insulate the contacts from atmospheric conditions, not on the contacts themselves.

You mention brass contacts. I just took my battery out and the pins on the bike ( 2020 Vado5) looked more like steel to me. Didn’t look into the battery’s connector.

 

[Sierratim]

You mention brass contacts. I just took my battery out and the pins on the bike ( 2020 Vado5) looked more like steel to me. Didn’t look into the battery’s connector.

The contacts won't be steel, too prone to corrosion and too high an electrical resistance. They're typically plated copper or brass.

 

[Sierratim]

That brings up an interesting point re the contacts.

Dielectric grease is an insulator, it does not conduct electricity. You can use vaseline, or regular grease to the same effect. Vaseline is a conductor. The reason they use brass contacts on both, there should be no galvanic corrosion between the two. Diaelectric grease should be used in the surrounding area to insulate the contacts from atmospheric conditions, not on the contacts themselves.

I certainly agree that any of these compounds should not be applied between electrical contacts that are clamped together.

Over the years I've relied on this somewhat lengthy article discussing GREASES IN CONNECTION PROTECTION. It concludes that flooding many types of connectors with dielectric grease is an acceptable practice. It also discusses some of the considerations involved in using Vaseline in similar applications.

BTW, Permetex recommends;

"Directions for Connectors:

1. Make sure ignition system is off.
2. Clean surface with Permatex® Contact Cleaner.
3. Coat both parts of terminal contact with Dielectric Grease.
4. Reassemble, maintaining metal-to-metal contact."

I've had good results with ths approach over the years on everything from my salt water outboard to all my ebikes.

In a quick search this AM I do see other articles that don't recommend greases, silicone or otherwise, on electrical contacts. I'm going to go with what works for me. YRWV.

 

[Marcela]

Thank you Marcela!

You're welcome Stefan.

I wonder if the magnetic sensor is having anything to do with these reports of intermittent faults. Maybe the magnetic is not strong enough or just on the edge of being able to trigger the sensor. There is not any room to stack another magnetic, barely enough room for the magnetic to pass. Maybe investigate installing another magnetic or reenergizing the current one.

Just a thought.

 

[Marcela]

If the sensor and magnet were closer where they passed wouldn’t hurt either. There is s pretty good gap between the two. But I have no idea what is required.

 

[PaD]

My guess is that it’s a software fault when it comes to the problems I’ve had with no power. The battery connection may of course be a problem too as we know the battery fitting is far from perfect but I’m still leaning towards software for my problems.