Specialized Turbo Vado/Como/Tero/Tero X User Club

[Sierratim]

My new Vado 5.0 should be ready early next week if all goes well. I ride where there is lots of thorns. I have no problem changing tires and tubes before I take delivery. I understand nothings perfect, but are there significantly better choices right off the bat? And would they be the same size? Open to suggestions. Thanks once again!

We also get thorns this time of year. I've used tire liners/thorn strips for years with good success. Not perfect, but nothing is. Relatively affordable with no special maintenance required.

I have to admit that I had 3 rear tire flats on my new Vado 5 within the first few months before I got around to installing my customary tire liners. No flats since, over 1,000 miles and counting.

Others have reported good results adding tire sealant to the tubes, switching to more puncture resistant tires, etc. I have Schwalbe Marathon GT tires ready to go as soon as we can start biking out of the area again. I'll still be using thorns strips!

Regardless of the measures you take, I would recommend carrying a flat kit. Mine includes a spare tube, tire levers, patch kit, tire boots, mini pump, and CO2 inflator. I also carry a bike mini tool that has the 5mm hex wrench required to remove the through axles when I do get my next flat.

Enjoy your new Vado!

 

[ronr]

Como 3.0 owner. I’d like to lose the seat post and add a suspension post. I’m wondering what I should do about the taillight and what post(s) I should consider. Thanks.

 

[FlatSix911]

Good news from Specialized regarding the recall and warranty extension on the 2019/2020 Levo.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I made it. ( or the Vado made it) Did not have to call Emergency. Sorry no video to show you so for now you have to take make word.
But is it really 22%? I think I should go back bringing a folding rule.

Thank you very much for the interesting report, @PaD! Whatever the grade is there, the short incline should pose no problem, I guess. Problems with steep ascents begin when the incline is long (the indication of that is the bike going slower and slower...) My 1.2s motor has the same max torque (90 Nm) as your 1.3, Peranders. Yours is stronger (550 vs 520 W) and the amplification factor of the 1.3 is 3.6x while the 1.2s can help you with "3.2 times you!" No doubt the 1.3 has the edge, same as the 40T chainring of your Vado against 48T of mine. The S-Pedelec makes it easy to get at high speed while the "normal" EU Vado 5.0 has the climbing edge. Which is a good thing in Stockholm

I say we ride uphill on San Francisco's Lombard Street!

Would like to try it myself!

I wouldn't wish anybody to make this ascent (although people make it on traditional bikes, very slowly). The majority of inclines is above 8% and that's over 12 km. Very tiresome. We were lucky to be descending there; a lot of fun! People rent "scooters for grown-ups" to be able to get their adrenaline shot there

A couple of words about torque: My brother was often getting a "wheelie" when he rode my Vado for his work commutes. Since he was putting a lot of torque into the crank at the green light change (Turbo Mode), the Vado motor was responding with the full 520 W support instantly!

Yet what you can expect from a powerful e-MTB is beyond imagination. SyncDrive motors (especially the Yamaha PW-X2) feature the "Zero Cadence", that is, the motor starts instantly with the foot push on the pedal. Combined with low gearing it may bring unexpected outcome. The first time Jacek got onto the Trance E+, he was thrown out from the saddle as he didn't expect the instant response of the bike! (I guess same could happen to Simon Cowell, you've heard the story for sure).

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Como 3.0 owner. I’d like to lose the seat post and add a suspension post. I’m wondering what I should do about the taillight and what post(s) I should consider. Thanks.

Cirrus Cycles Kinekt 2.1 is the choice of many members of these Forums. It should be the 30.9 mm, "short" version, unless you have exceptionally long legs. The seat-post comes with the springs you order for your weight. I got the "orange" springs installed (as I was very heavy at that time); Cirrus Cycles provided "medium" (black) springs in the box, too (going to replace the springs soon).

The matter of the tail-light was discussed not so long time ago: It is the matter of drilling a single hole in the post and re-routing the cable. I hope one of our experts here could re-iterate on how that's done.

Other suspension seat-posts such as Thudbuster work with elastomer inserts, also weight-selectable. I like and use the Kinekt though. It's perfect!

 

[RandallS]

Thank you very much for the interesting report, @PaD! Whatever the grade is there, the short incline should pose no problem, I guess. Problems with steep ascents begin when the incline is long (the indication of that is the bike going slower and slower...) My 1.2s motor has the same max torque (90 Nm) as your 1.3, Peranders. Yours is stronger (550 vs 520 W) and the amplification factor of the 1.3 is 3.6x while the 1.2s can help you with "3.2 times you!" No doubt the 1.3 has the edge, same as the 40T chainring of your Vado against 48T of mine. The S-Pedelec makes it easy to get at high speed while the "normal" EU Vado 5.0 has the climbing edge. Which is a good thing in Stockholm


Would like to try it myself!

View attachment 62231
I wouldn't wish anybody to make this ascent (although people make it on traditional bikes, very slowly). The majority of inclines is above 8% and that's over 12 km. Very tiresome. We were lucky to be descending there; a lot of fun! People rent "scooters for grown-ups" to be able to get their adrenaline shot there

A couple of words about torque: My brother was often getting a "wheelie" when he rode my Vado for his work commutes. Since he was putting a lot of torque into the crank at the green light change (Turbo Mode), the Vado motor was responding with the full 520 W support instantly!

Yet what you can expect from a powerful e-MTB is beyond imagination. SyncDrive motors (especially the Yamaha PW-X2) feature the "Zero Cadence", that is, the motor starts instantly with the foot push on the pedal. Combined with low gearing it may bring unexpected outcome. The first time Jacek got onto the Trance E+, he was thrown out from the saddle as he didn't expect the instant response of the bike! (I guess same could happen to Simon Cowell, you've heard the story for sure).

I no longer try to climb curbs on the highest PAS level with my SyncDrive PW-X2 powered Giant.
You CAN teach an old dog new tricks...

 

[PaD]

Thank you very much for the interesting report, @PaD! Whatever the grade is there, the short incline should pose no problem, I guess. Problems with steep ascents begin when the incline is long (the indication of that is the bike going slower and slower...) My 1.2s motor has the same max torque (90 Nm) as your 1.3, Peranders. Yours is stronger (550 vs 520 W) and the amplification factor of the 1.3 is 3.6x while the 1.2s can help you with "3.2 times you!" No doubt the 1.3 has the edge, same as the 40T chainring of your Vado against 48T of mine. The S-Pedelec makes it easy to get at high speed while the "normal" EU Vado 5.0 has the climbing edge. Which is a good thing in Stockholm


Would like to try it myself!

View attachment 62231
I wouldn't wish anybody to make this ascent (although people make it on traditional bikes, very slowly). The majority of inclines is above 8% and that's over 12 km. Very tiresome. We were lucky to be descending there; a lot of fun! People rent "scooters for grown-ups" to be able to get their adrenaline shot there

A couple of words about torque: My brother was often getting a "wheelie" when he rode my Vado for his work commutes. Since he was putting a lot of torque into the crank at the green light change (Turbo Mode), the Vado motor was responding with the full 520 W support instantly!

Yet what you can expect from a powerful e-MTB is beyond imagination. SyncDrive motors (especially the Yamaha PW-X2) feature the "Zero Cadence", that is, the motor starts instantly with the foot push on the pedal. Combined with low gearing it may bring unexpected outcome. The first time Jacek got onto the Trance E+, he was thrown out from the saddle as he didn't expect the instant response of the bike! (I guess same could happen to Simon Cowell, you've heard the story for sure).

Yes the ”incline test” I did was a short ride. I was thinking when I was there that if the ascent is longer then a less steep incline will still be challenging.

 

[PaD]

Como 3.0 owner. I’d like to lose the seat post and add a suspension post. I’m wondering what I should do about the taillight and what post(s) I should consider. Thanks.

The Redshift Shockstop suspension post I showed in post two days ago is 27.2mm so a shim, 27.2 - 30.9mm, is needed for a Vado. It is not included.
You have to take the seatpost out to adjust for rider weight.
Sorry but I have no solution for the taillight.

 

[Art Deco]

The Redshift Shockstop suspension post I showed in post two days ago is 27.2mm so a shim, 27.2 - 30.9mm, is needed for a Vado. It is not included.
You have to take the seatpost out to adjust for rider weight.
Sorry but I have no solution for the taillight.

I just put a cheap battery powered taillight on the rack, I'm hoping to use the prewired rear light power for something else.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

It looks I need to intervene here

"How to drill a hole in Kinekt (or other) suspension seat-post to route the tail-light wire on the Como"

 

[RichM]

I just bought the Como 4.0 I'm very excited about the purchase. No pic yet

 

[Brendon@OEB]

Have about 1800kms on the Vado 5.0, thought I'd clean the drivetrain and do some regular maintenance. It felt like there was some very slight creaking from the motor so I wanted to remove the spider and relube that as well as the motor mount bolts. Additionally the front brake cable was in the way of the Flux 1200 headlight so I wanted to re route that.

Drivetrain cleaned up fine, Chain has about 75% live left, cassette shows wear in the 15 and 13t cogs (no surprise). Thinking an 11/32 is in my future as I'd like to have a 11-12-13-14-15t spread down low.

Lastly I contacted Tannus to see about their liners and they sent me a couple to try. Install was fine, the Velocity Aileron rims are super easy to install tires on though. Pretty obvious there was something in the tire so grip strength helps installing the tire. They spec a tube 20-28c so I might go smaller than a 28/32c tube next time to give more room during install. Overall after the ride home they're a touch less forgiving but riding a 50lb bike at close to 30mph you really don't notice it.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

From the sequel: "What We Love Our Vados & Comos For"

 

[RichM]

Has anyone looked at and purchased ebike insurance? looking for thoughts on you experiences with it
Thanks

 

[Marci jo]

Have about 1800kms on the Vado 5.0, thought I'd clean the drivetrain and do some regular maintenance. It felt like there was some very slight creaking from the motor so I wanted to remove the spider and relube that as well as the motor mount bolts. Additionally the front brake cable was in the way of the Flux 1200 headlight so I wanted to re route that.

Drivetrain cleaned up fine, Chain has about 75% live left, cassette shows wear in the 15 and 13t cogs (no surprise). Thinking an 11/32 is in my future as I'd like to have a 11-12-13-14-15t spread down low.

Lastly I contacted Tannus to see about their liners and they sent me a couple to try. Install was fine, the Velocity Aileron rims are super easy to install tires on though. Pretty obvious there was something in the tire so grip strength helps installing the tire. They spec a tube 20-28c so I might go smaller than a 28/32c tube next time to give more room during install. Overall after the ride home they're a touch less forgiving but riding a 50lb bike at close to 30mph you really don't notice it.

Wow, that's quite the maintenance process. That's a very lucky ebike .
I'm happy to keep the tires inflated, clean the chain, and wash it.
But I have a good relationship with the lbs (bring em cookies every so often to stay on their good side. It works!)

 

[45srbest]

How do you folks support your Vado while fixing a flat out on the road? I’m out where there really are no trees or benches to prop the bike up on.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

How do you folks support your Vado while fixing a flat out on the road? I’m out where there really are no trees or benches to prop the bike up on.

I call for a cab...

(There's something called "handlebar jacks" to put the bike upside down).

 

[Brendon@OEB]

How do you folks support your Vado while fixing a flat out on the road? I’m out where there really are no trees or benches to prop the bike up on.

Gently lay it on the non drive side. It's a little awkward but you won't hurt the bike. You can lean the bike on it's kickstand to get the rear wheel off the ground, helps drop it out of the dropout. If that makes sense.

 

[GuruUno]

Gently lay it on the non drive side. It's a little awkward but you won't hurt the bike. You can lean the bike on it's kickstand to get the rear wheel off the ground, helps drop it out of the dropout. If that makes sense.

Great info, please provide video to the process, as 'lay it on the non-drive side' and the 'lean it on its kickstand' seem to counter each action...no?
We'd all much appreciate it, as the last thing we hate is to be frazzeld from a flat and scratch or screw up our bikes, right?

 

[Brendon@OEB]

I would make a video if I had the time.

Literally the thing that sticks out the farthest is the handlebar, lean it over and gently let the bar end touch the ground and the bike should rest on the bar end, maybe pedal and both tires.