Specialized Turbo Vado/Como/Tero/Tero X User Club

This is a tool I need anyway to get proper NM correct? You did say 15 NM is proper torque for axel? This tool is 2-20. That way I won't need to check it at bike shop. I can always cancel order if I don't need it.
This torque set has had good comments in several threads and has a range , 2-20Nm, that covers most everything you'll need. I say most as there are a couple of fasteners that are spec'd under 2Nm. Mine torque set is similar. It is good to have to properly maintain your bike, though I consider mine a shop tool rather than something I'd take on a ride, but it's certainly your call.

15Nm is correct for the axle torque. Page 22 of the User Manual has a chart of torque specs.

I'd suggest keeping this tool set. I use mine regularly.
 
This torque set has had good comments in several threads and has a range , 2-20Nm, that covers most everything you'll need. I say most as there are a couple of fasteners that are spec'd under 2Nm. Mine torque set is similar. It is good to have to properly maintain your bike, though I consider mine a shop tool rather than something I'd take on a ride, but it's certainly your call.

15Nm is correct for the axle torque. Page 22 of the User Manual has a chart of torque specs.

I'd suggest keeping this tool set. I use mine regularly.
Thank you. I will follow your advice. I was considering cancelling the order. It may not seem like it but I do listen to the vets. Sometimes. 😄. Thanks again.👍
 
This is a tool I need anyway to get proper NM correct? You did say 15 NM is proper torque for axel? This tool is 2-20. That way I won't need to check it at bike shop. I can always cancel order if I don't need it.
I have this too. They make great tools and their customer service is amazing. @Stefan Mikes recommended this brand to me. Agree with @Sierratim that it is a great tool to have at home and a must have but not necessarily to carry with you.
 
I tried starting a thread about this but got no response. Those of you who have installed a suspension seatpost, like a thudbuster. How do you get the light and cable out of the existing seatpost and how do you move the wires to move the light when you can’t put it through the seatpost?
 
I tried starting a thread about this but got no response. Those of you who have installed a suspension seatpost, like a thudbuster. How do you get the light and cable out of the existing seatpost and how do you move the wires to move the light when you can’t put it through the seatpost?
Think you are going to either look for an exit port on the frame lower down, or I'd drill about a 1/4" hole at the top rear of the seat post to thread the wire through. You'll have to put something either around the wire where it feeds through the post so it doesn't abrade or put something like a rubber vacuum line hose around the wire or stuff it into the hole to protect the wire like a grommet. Then put a cable or wire down through the hole in the seat post and tape it to your light wire and pull it through as you insert the seat post. hth.
 
Is there any reason I can’t cut the light off the bike and terminate the wire ends?
As I recall from our test rides last year the seat mounted light is the Como's only rear tail light. Disconnecting it to install a Thudbuster shouldn't be an issue for the electrical performance of the bike, but I personally always use a tail light where there's any auto traffic at all. Where else could a tail light be mounted? Perhaps a rechargeable light mounted to the seat post?
 
Maybe it has already been mentioned. I just found out that I can check the battery charging through Mission Control or BLEvo app. Bike is in the garage I'm in the bedroom. I can see the battery charging in either app. For those who want to monitor the charge when it reaches 80% or whatever. I think that's pretty cool.
 
The battery in my Como is not locking in. It seems to snap into place but it pops right out witout the key. It almost fell out while I was riding.
 
Katy:
Please align the battery along the frame with the contacts downwards, so it is almost parallel to the frame (only a tiny gap should remain at the top left corner). Then give the battery a really good slap, and it will lock in the place. The problem is a well known design flaw of Comos and Vados but once you master the slapping, you'll stop noticing the issue. Oiling the "tooth" near to the lock helps.
 
Thanks. A good slap did the job.

Also. My Thudbuster is now installed. A hole drilled through the seat post and the light is also still working.
 
Just shy of 900 miles. No flats. All is well. Checking out the different terrain.
 

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Friends,
@Phyz has watched the Court's video review of Como 4.0 and is concerned about the "grinding noise of the Brose motor". Could we tell him our experiences?
 
With zero assist I don't have any motor noise. There is a low 'growling' that increases with the assist level, but l wouldn't call it a 'grinding noise'. Overall, it's very quite, esp compared to some other brands.
 
Picked up my new Vado 4 today Sat 4/25 and went for a 24 mile ride. I didn't hear any grinding noise just the very low growl that Sierratim mentioned. Had a good ride, went out with my daughter and son-in-law who were both on road bikes. My 72 year old body would never have kept up if not on the Vado and kept it on low levels almost the whole time. Bike needs to go back as when I put on my glasses to see what the blinking message was telling me I have a battery error. Hopefully I won't be w/o a bike for long.
 
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