Specialized Turbo Vado/Como/Tero/Tero X User Club

As far rolling the Vado 'on its back' from the vertical, I'd be concerned with damaging the tail light. It's going to take a lot of weight before the rear rack takes any load.
That's my concern too. And you can't simply change the MY18-rear fender light when it's broken, you need the whole fender with the light on it. Specialized has changed the rear light with the 2020 model so it might become complicated to order the MY18-spare part too.
 
I use a similar technique to move our mechanicals around the shop; squeeze the tear brake andflip 'em up on the rear wheel. They turn on a dime and can be easily maneuvered anywhere I want them. Hadn't tried it with the Vados. Looks like it's doable. Have you tried this yet?

As far rolling the Vado 'on its back' from the vertical, I'd be concerned with damaging the tail light. It's going to take a lot of weight before the rear rack takes any load.
I did try it. As soon as the pressure increases on the fender and light the bike rack starts to support the weight and prevents destructive force on fender and light (I think).
that is the reason I said it works because I had the same concern about fender and light also.
If I ever need this approach on the field I have a rag that I plan to put on the light to protect it and fender scratch, and have a saddle rain guard to protect the saddle.
 
I carry an additional patch kit too but do no trust that there is only one puncture point when it happens. So I'd rather change to a new tube and check the old tube at home under water afterwards. Taking the wheel and complete tire off you can check the inner side of the tire for sticking glas etc more easily. The time saved without taking the wheel off you're loosing waiting for the patch to dry.

The Triggers are lightweight and smooth but not really puncture resistent. Schwalbe Marathons are a lot heavier and stiffer. You can't have both so there's the choice.
I have the Park Tool patch kit which contains multiple patches that sticks instantly without the need of glue hence no need to wait for it to dry.
My main concern is taking the rear wheel off without the use of bike stand. For me it is a big challenge specially putting it back.
Agree with your comment about how light and lively are the Triggers. I am getting used to the heavy Schwable and the peace of mind is main concern for me for now.
 
Here's another story but connected to the emergency package: the hand pump.

It took me a while to find the solution.

I wanted a hand pump on my Vado. I did not want it to be stolen but I did not want to bother about taking it off - on - off - on. Nor did I want to carry it in a bag etc . So?

My pictures below tell the story. Where is the hand pump in picture 1? Well, see picture 2.
I pushed it in the seat post from the downside!

So I had to find a hand pump with the right technical provisions AND size.
I wrapped part of an old tire tube around part of the pump which keeps it in place in the seat post and prevents it from rattling. Hasn't come out or down riding for the last 800 miles or so and so it will never, probably. Just sits in place waiting for the time beeing needed. No one can get at it. No one can take my Kinekt seatpost or this pump out. Why? Because it's guarded by the Hexlox System which I'd put in the 4mm bolt of the seatpost clamp (and other points of the bike). Interested in the system?

The Pump is a Crankbrothers Klic HV + CO².
You can use it bio pumping AND CO². Good choice, puncture proven on my tour described above.
But any other pump with the right diameter could do. This one is proven.


. Seatpost.jpgSeatpost Pump out.jpg
 
Also going to try to rid the 42t and 37t on the cog and go to a 36t or 34t, get a more compact cog set. Won't know how that goes til this weekend. Gonna try to get to 12,13,14,16,18,20,22,25,28,32,36 somehow. Think I can do it.
What's your reasoning in going with such a close-ratio cassette gearing? I like it on a road bike with a double or triple crank, where you're trying to maintain a cadence and match it to your speed, but I'd think it wouldn't be optimal for an e-bike. For one thing, having a single crank gear generally means you'd want a wide-ratio cassette to cover all the conditions. Frankly, I like having my 42-tooth granny gear in case I ever have to make it up that last hill to my house with a dead battery! 😁

Just curious about what you've found in your riding experience.
 
The Specialized Vado mid-drive motor puts out max power above a cadence of ~70RPM. I like being able to keep my RPMs in this range when I need to climb so I get max assistance when I need it most. I don't use it very often, but the larger cogs come in handy for this.
 
Just something to mess with. The 37 and 42 are not really used for me, I can climb some pretty good hills with 30/40 assist in the 32 cog so that is deep enough. That eliminates two cogs, good for mtb or something else but for ebike under power....... The front sprocket looks like it aligns with the #4 cog which is the 17t, so anything either side of that is in the ball game, if you are going to keep chain stretch down. That means the biggest cogs are going to stretch the chain the most. So you could look at the gearing either side of the #4 17t cog as another input. All just something to consider. Really the gearing is pretty good as is, giving the best range around the 17t cog comparing to other cassette spacing. So anything between 11t and 32t is fair game for myself. Roll the dice.

I like to cruise the flat land with rolling hills, shifting up and down, the jumps in cogs are annoying as I prefer keeping cadence in a range, makes it easier to speed up also.
 
I am very happy with the 48t - 11-42t combination. The smallest cog allows me hitting the 28 mph at my favourite cadence of 76 (51-622 tyres). On the other hand, the last Winter and this Spring mean massive headwinds in my area. Fancy negotiating an overpass against 20-25 mph headwind! Even the Turbo mode wouldn't help were it not the 42t largest cog. On the flat, riding into the gale in the Sport mode requires low gears and the speed falls into the range of 11 mph at the strong gusts. It also happens to ride the last segment with the flat battery and I am more than happy with the large cogs of the SLX cassette.

To each their own.

Regarding the cadence, I generally ride above 70 rpm with the 76 as the fave and up to 85 in hard conditions, as fast spinning is easier on the knees and also on the drive-train (lower gears mean less strain).
 
I am very happy with the 48t - 11-42t combination. The smallest cog allows me hitting the 28 mph at my favourite cadence of 76 (51-622 tyres). On the other hand, the last Winter and this Spring mean massive headwinds in my area. Fancy negotiating an overpass against 20-25 mph headwind! Even the Turbo mode wouldn't help were it not the 42t largest cog. On the flat, riding into the gale in the Sport mode requires low gears and the speed falls into the range of 11 mph at the strong gusts. It also happens to ride the last segment with the flat battery and I am more than happy with the large cogs of the SLX cassette.

To each their own.

Regarding the cadence, I generally ride above 70 rpm with the 76 as the fave and up to 85 in hard conditions, as fast spinning is easier on the knees and also on the drive-train (lower gears mean less strain).
I think you hit on an important point that folks new to e bikes and maybe have not cycled much before can forget. The assist should not replace shifting gears. I shift gears just as much as I did on a regular bike. It has been a learning curve for my wife who did not bike much before so used the assist level as much as shifting but is learning to shift more. And you are right, learning good cadence is key to being most efficient.
 
I am very happy with the 48t - 11-42t combination. The smallest cog allows me hitting the 28 mph at my favourite cadence of 76 (51-622 tyres). On the other hand, the last Winter and this Spring mean massive headwinds in my area. Fancy negotiating an overpass against 20-25 mph headwind! Even the Turbo mode wouldn't help were it not the 42t largest cog. On the flat, riding into the gale in the Sport mode requires low gears and the speed falls into the range of 11 mph at the strong gusts. It also happens to ride the last segment with the flat battery and I am more than happy with the large cogs of the SLX cassette.

To each their own.

Regarding the cadence, I generally ride above 70 rpm with the 76 as the fave and up to 85 in hard conditions, as fast spinning is easier on the knees and also on the drive-train (lower gears mean less strain).

Great point regarding the Vado’s gearing. That 48 tooth front chain ring is perfect for cruising long distance, where the Vado really shines.

Those headwinds in your area are really nasty! Can you imagine trying to ride a non-powered bike into them? Not much fun. Ebikes rock!
 
Those headwinds in your area are really nasty! Can you imagine trying to ride a non-powered bike into them? Not much fun. Ebikes rock!
I'm about to complete a 45 mile ride soon. It is the Good Ole Mule's turn today and luckily it is the only day in near future with a softer wind. I agree with you - life without e-bikes would be terrible! Only pity that the winds eat so many electrons. I will see whether a metric century with the Vado would be doable on Sunday.
 
I have a similar model. It could be carried in a pannier, but doesn't seem worth it to me. The through axle should be torqued after repairing a flat, but I guesstimate 15Nm and set it correctly when I get home. I did have a flat on a multi-day trip to Carmel last Summer. Stopped by a LBS on the next day's ride where they were happy to torque the axle for me.
 
I have a similar model. It could be carried in a pannier, but doesn't seem worth it to me. The through axle should be torqued after repairing a flat, but I guesstimate 15Nm and set it correctly when I get home. I did have a flat on a multi-day trip to Carmel last Summer. Stopped by a LBS on the next day's ride where they were happy to torque the axle for me.
This is a tool I need anyway to get proper NM correct? You did say 15 NM is proper torque for axel? This tool is 2-20. That way I won't need to check it at bike shop. I can always cancel order if I don't need it.
 
This is a tool I need anyway to get proper NM correct? You did say 15 NM is proper torque for axel? This tool is 2-20. That way I won't need to check it at bike shop. I can always cancel order if I don't need it.
This torque set has had good comments in several threads and has a range , 2-20Nm, that covers most everything you'll need. I say most as there are a couple of fasteners that are spec'd under 2Nm. Mine torque set is similar. It is good to have to properly maintain your bike, though I consider mine a shop tool rather than something I'd take on a ride, but it's certainly your call.

15Nm is correct for the axle torque. Page 22 of the User Manual has a chart of torque specs.

I'd suggest keeping this tool set. I use mine regularly.
 
This torque set has had good comments in several threads and has a range , 2-20Nm, that covers most everything you'll need. I say most as there are a couple of fasteners that are spec'd under 2Nm. Mine torque set is similar. It is good to have to properly maintain your bike, though I consider mine a shop tool rather than something I'd take on a ride, but it's certainly your call.

15Nm is correct for the axle torque. Page 22 of the User Manual has a chart of torque specs.

I'd suggest keeping this tool set. I use mine regularly.
Thank you. I will follow your advice. I was considering cancelling the order. It may not seem like it but I do listen to the vets. Sometimes. 😄. Thanks again.👍
 
This is a tool I need anyway to get proper NM correct? You did say 15 NM is proper torque for axel? This tool is 2-20. That way I won't need to check it at bike shop. I can always cancel order if I don't need it.
I have this too. They make great tools and their customer service is amazing. @Stefan Mikes recommended this brand to me. Agree with @Sierratim that it is a great tool to have at home and a must have but not necessarily to carry with you.
 
I tried starting a thread about this but got no response. Those of you who have installed a suspension seatpost, like a thudbuster. How do you get the light and cable out of the existing seatpost and how do you move the wires to move the light when you can’t put it through the seatpost?
 
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