Specialized Turbo Vado/Como/Tero/Tero X User Club

I'd like to see a comparison of the two belts.
Easy. Just get the Brose repair kit and buy a normal Gates belt same size for your comparison report. The people with the torn cheap belt replacements went for the Brose exchange kit afterwards and I doubt they'll buy another cheap belt just for the comparison.

Might have been a misadjustment.
I doubt that. The rider who exchanged the belt I showed in pic 2 reported that he tightend the grub screw correctly with 0,25 Nm.
Also these two are just examples of a lot more torn 'cheap' belt exchanges.
 
Would you know if the stronger special gates belt is also stiffer or has greater resistance? I ask because my new Como 5.0 motor seems to not have the power to help get me up to the 28mph which I could do on the previous motor.
I have a Vado 4 . 2 friends have Comos . One a 3.0 that is Class 3 the other is a New Como 5.0 . I haven't ridden either bike a lot. I experience getting to 28 on all 3 Bikes mentioned. However of the 3 the Newest Como 5 to me anyway. Feels like it's even more upright then the Older Model Como 3.
I've only ridden it twice and the Older 3.0 4 different times. Maybe it's my imagination, but I think the newer Como feels like the pedals are more out in from of you then below you as My Vado and the Older Como feel.
There's no specs to support my thoughts . I'm just telling you what I felt when riding the Como 5. The Older Como 3 wasn't available at the time to make a direct comparison. I can say for certain My Vado 4 is easier to get to 28 MPH then the Como 5 is. IMO IT'S BECAUSE you almost lay back in the Como. Just a Thought.
 
Easy. Just get the Brose repair kit and buy a normal Gates belt same size for your comparison report. The people with the torn cheap belt replacements went for the Brose exchange kit afterwards and I doubt they'll buy another cheap belt just for the comparison.


I doubt that. The rider who exchanged the belt I showed in pic 2 reported that he tightend the grub screw correctly with 0,25 Nm.
Also these two are just examples of a lot more torn 'cheap' belt exchanges.
Don't think I need a comparison at that cost.

Wonder if the adjusting screw provided with the kit has loctite preapplied, and if the reapplication of the used adjusting screw had some locking compound reapplied.
 
The grub screw has a thread lock and yes you should use Loctite which isn't preapplied.
 
I'm devistated! (as one of Forum members managed to write in excitement) :D The mechanic called me on Saturday to announce my new Vado chain was damaged... Nobody knows how it happened but the guy told me the chain not only broke but it was also badly bent. (Good all the cogs remained in good shape). I'm sure it was me doing something wrong... Ordered two new HG701-11-138 chains I would get my Vado back on the coming Wednesday. With my third e-bike at Jacek's, that left me with the Trance as the only e-bike I can use...

I and a female friend plan an off-road ride together for this morning, as it should be sunny and not terribly cold. She would be riding a decent traditional bike on 2.2" tyres, and she knows the Kampinos National Park as good as her own pocket :) Because of her being a traditional cyclist, I had to shorten the route plan to 66 km, allowing me a single battery ride. Good, I like it :)

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Dangerously close to Jacek's place but I know my brother has been very tired over last weeks of re-organising his own company.
 
The mechanic called me on Saturday to announce my new Vado chain was damaged ... the guy told me the chain not only broke but it was also badly bent. (Good all the cogs remained in good shape).
🙁 Ideas: due to noticing the worn cogs late and using them with the new chain? Or a not correctly mounted Shimano pin/quick lock?
 
Stefan, as I'm sure you and your brother know the HG701-11 chain is directional. Is it possible that it was installed backwards?

This was my first thought when I had my first chain failure, but both the new chain and the spliced length were both correct...🤔
 
What brand quick links? I know the shimano brand are $. Maybe that is the reason?
I'm using the recommended Shimano 11-speed master link. The outer plates that came loose on my chain were not close to the master link.
 
Shimano
What brand chain was damaged? SierraTim also had a damaged chain, same brand?
Shimano XT CN-HG701-11-138.

🙁 Ideas: due to noticing the worn cogs late and using them with the new chain? Or a not correctly mounted Shimano pin/quick lock?
Everything was done almost correctly but I seem to install the extra pins wrongly when I was shortening the chain. Perhaps this.
Or (is it possible?!), could I damage the chain when degreasing it in a Decathlon degreasing tool?!

Stefan, as I'm sure you and your brother know the HG701-11 chain is directional. Is it possible that it was installed backwards?
Absolutely correctly. I could use the pins wrongly when splicing that chain myself.

What brand quick links? I know the shimano brand are $. Maybe that is the reason?
Shimano, for 11-speed chains.
 
... was done almost correctly but I seem to install the extra pins wrongly when I was shortening the chain. Perhaps this.
Or (is it possible?!), could I damage the chain when degreasing it in a Decathlon degreasing tool?!

Absolutely correctly. I could use the pins wrongly when splicing that chain myself.
Shimano, for 11-speed chains.
FWIW Shimano (as well as KMC) quick-links are not reusable, I trust you are aware of that.

Degreasing the chain in the classical tool can't have had that impact on your chain.

I would mark the chain pin that I mounted myself, just to find it better when checking shortly afterwards.

Are you shure you've got the CN-HG701-11 chain? 🤔
Or is it still the e8000? Can't see you changing chains every other month or so. ;)
 
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FWIW Shimano (as well as KMC) quick-links are not reusable, I trust you are aware of that.

Degreasing the chain in the classical tool can't have had that impact on your chain.

I would mark the chain pin that I mounted myself, just to find it better when checking shortly afterwards.

Are you shure you've got the CN-HG701-11 chain? 🤔
Or is it still the e8000? Can't see you changing chains every other month or so. ;)
You're just fine re-using a non-reusable quick link a couple of times but they will wear out eventually. ;)

When you re-attach it to the chain you can feel the resistance as it clicks in... if it still feels tight leave it on.
 
You're just fine re-using a non-reusable quick link a couple of times but they will wear out eventually. ;)

When you re-attach it to the chain you can feel the resistance as it clicks in... if it still feels tight leave it on.
I too reuse the non-reusable 11-speed master links, though I do carry a new spare with me just in case.
 
FWIW Shimano (as well as KMC) quick-links are not reusable, I trust you are aware of that.

Degreasing the chain in the classical tool can't have had that impact on your chain.

I would mark the chain pin that I mounted myself, just to find it better when checking shortly afterwards.

Are you shure you've got the CN-HG701-11 chain? 🤔
Or is it still the e8000? Can't see you changing chains every other month or so. ;)
Correct. That was the CN-E8000. What I ordered now was the 701. Easy to get confused.
 
Perhaps you're interested how the Third-Party Insurance defines S-Pedelec Vado in Poland? :)

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Make, model, type ("NO TYPE"). Plate Number. Vehicle Identification Number. Number of Seats. Manufacturing Year. Total Allowable Load. Kind: Moped. First Registered Date. Fuel: ELECTRIC. Used as: a cab, a lease, a prop, for driving lessons, for racing, or for demo rides? NOT :D

@TS25: That might be of interest for you since our countries are not that different. I hear you have to possess the driving license to ride an L1e-B in Germany. In Poland, driving license for a Speed-Pedelec is only pertaining to people younger than 27 (it is because the law never acts backwards, etc.)
 
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