Specialized Turbo Vado/Como/Tero/Tero X User Club

[Stefan Mikes]

I used the same technique to install a replacement chain on my Vado. I was surprised how much pressure it took on the pedals to get the master link to 'click' closed! For my 9-speed mech bike it's much easier...

For my 3x8-speed Lovelec I could close the link with my fingers...
Note: Jacek is a far-sighted person and I had to tell him what side of the chains the engravings were, what the direction of the arrow was, and whether he put the right link on the indicated chainring tooth

 

[psimkins]

I have a VADO 5.0 just received last week, previously I was riding a VADO 1.0 which I purchase a second battery to use. I am doing chemotherapy all the time so I ride at the highest power level. I rode 28 miles and had 9% left on the battery, however I had also climbed about 4000ft so far. I carry a second battery which is the same (604 WH) on my trunk bag, so I just swapped out the battery. I finished doing 44.6 miles 4500ft climbing with about 50% left on second battery.

 

[GuruUno]

Approximately 1200 miles on each chain. The chain gauge indicated 1.0 mark stretch on each of them.

Oh boy, just hit 1200 miles today, guess I gotta check for stretch, etc. All seems perfect riding, etc. I cannot believe 1.0 stretch on a chain in 1200 miles.
So, reading all the various contributions here regarding which chain, tapered or not, directional, links, it's a tad overwhelming to actually know what chain(z) are preferred, available, and the reasonings as to how many links, etc.
I come away with an uncomfortable feeling of no 'standardization', and may require intervention by the local bike shop to validate certain items, like the cassette (teeth) as an example, so possibly somewhere here in these discussions we can either standardize the uniformity of expectations or make specific descriptive reference to all of the multitude of various that need to be taken into consideration prior to making a purchase.
I know if you read the manufacturers blurb on specifications, it usually states "we at any time can change stuff so you'll need to know what you have" type of disclaimer.
Just trying to make it easier, as I'd like to have spare parts to do my own maintenance, etc., but the very last thing I need to do is buy the wrong stuff, have shipping, return fees, restock fees, etc.

 

[BarryS]

I have a VADO 5.0 just received last week, previously I was riding a VADO 1.0 which I purchase a second battery to use. I am doing chemotherapy all the time so I ride at the highest power level. I rode 28 miles and had 9% left on the battery, however I had also climbed about 4000ft so far. I carry a second battery which is the same (604 WH) on my trunk bag, so I just swapped out the battery. I finished doing 44.6 miles 4500ft climbing with about 50% left on second battery.

Body weight and tire pressure probably make some difference : Where I am Riding There are plenty of hills : I am curious now how far I could go on all turbo or all sport :

 

[Marcela]

I was out tooling around on the Como and decided to check my odo calibration number again, under power and without assist to see if there was a difference.

At the odo indicated .5, it was short of the 1/2 mile mark which I expected, both under power and unassisted. At the mile mark, both under assist and unassisted, the odo indicated exactly 1 mile as I crossed the marker which surprised me as yesterday I thought it was still incorrect. It may have something to do with faster speeds and the computer not being able to keep up with the wheel magnet as yesterday I rode the distance faster.

So for the Como 5.0 drivers, if you set your wheel circumference to 2103, you will be pretty much exact on the odo and mph indications. If your Como uses different tires or equipment it may vary, but shouldn't be much.

If you are a Vado driver, I have an inkling your number is going to be 84" or something real close but I still have to verify that someday as I'm curious what this will rout out.

 

[Sierratim]

I was out tooling around on the Como and decided to check my odo calibration number again, under power and without assist to see if there was a difference.

At the odo indicated .5, it was short of the 1/2 mile mark which I expected, both under power and unassisted. At the mile mark, both under assist and unassisted, the odo indicated exactly 1 mile as I crossed the marker which surprised me as yesterday I thought it was still incorrect. It may have something to do with faster speeds and the computer not being able to keep up with the wheel magnet as yesterday I rode the distance faster.

So for the Como 5.0 drivers, if you set your wheel circumference to 2103, you will be pretty much exact on the odo and mph indications. If your Como uses different tires or equipment it may vary, but shouldn't be much.

If you are a Vado driver, I have an inkling your number is going to be 84" or something real close but I still have to verify that someday as I'm curious what this will rout out.

I've personally found trail markers to be approximations. There's a section on the American River trail where painted trail mileage markers have been painted over and moved by dozens of yards several times! YRMV.

 

[Marcela]

I've personally found trail markers to be approximations. There's a section on the American River trail where painted trail mileage markers have been painted over and moved by dozens of yards several times! YRMV.

Why I don’t use trail markers.

 

[Sierratim]

Why I don’t use trail markers.

My apologies. I assumed you were using trail mile markers when you referred to "the 1/2 mile mark", etc. What mark are you referring to?

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Oh boy, just hit 1200 miles today, guess I gotta check for stretch, etc. All seems perfect riding, etc. I cannot believe 1.0 stretch on a chain in 1200 miles.

The stretch certainly depends on how a given e-bike has been ridden. The motor adds a lot of tensile stress, then there is the matter of rider's cadence, how the gears have been shifted etc. You need to be aware the 1.0 stretch translated to the chain length means a little bit over a millimetre, which is a very small figure. Still, the tolerances on modern cassettes are very tight. Not replacing the chain at the right moment means rapid deterioration of the cassette, and these are very expensive. Not replacing the cassette worn by the worn chain results in the damage to chain-ring, and replacing a chain-ring is hard: hard to buy a replacement, and few of us can replace the chain-ring at home.

Having said the above, I think replacing the chain in time is far cheaper than subsequent replacing the cassette, or worse, the chainring. The chain gauge costs dimes. If in doubt, the LBS will do chain purchase and replacement for you. However, some shop mechanics may insist the cassette should be replaced, too, and that makes me really unhappy.

Views of other Club members?

I have been capable to clean the Vado cassette only to this shape. Jacek was able to clean the Trance's cassette to the level it looked like a new one.

 

[TS25]

We were baffled by the fact it would be the best to own the Shimano Quick-Link pliers but Jacek was capable to connect the chain without the tool. (After he assembled the Quick-Link with pliers, he pressed the rear brake lever and stomped very hard on the right pedal; the Quick Link snapped into place).

I used the same technique to install a replacement chain on my Vado. I was surprised how much pressure it took on the pedals to get the master link to 'click' closed! For my 9-speed mech bike it's much easier...

For my 3x8-speed Lovelec I could close the link with my fingers...

That's why I don't like the Shimano quick links / KMC missing links. Get the SRAM powerlock quick link next time. No special tool needed and reusable.

 

[TS25]

... and replacing a chain-ring is hard: hard to buy a replacement, and few of us can replace the chain-ring at home.

... The chain gauge costs dimes.

Views of other Club members?

I have been capable to clean the Vado cassette only to this shape. Jacek was able to clean the Trance's cassette to the level it looked like a new one.

I agree in most points, but not in the above:

replacing the chain ring is an easy job, just need a few tools for about 22€ and 1/2 hour time, and you can buy good quality ones easily for 1/3 or 1/2 price of the Specialized chain ring.

Buying a chain gauge is a waste of money if you have a digital caliper at hand which is even more precise. I use the caliper method: 10 stretched chain links measured from centre to centre, 127mm is new - 128mm is OK but time to change - 129mm is a bit too late and worn teeth are likely. The chain gauge method is less precise and could lead to unnessary early chain exchange.

And for your attempt to clean the cassette: just send it to @Sierratim, I trust he would love to show you how it can be done properly
:

Specialized Turbo Vado/Como/Tero/Tero X User Club

I got my Como 4.0 about a month ago. Already 500 miles on it. Fabulous bike! I’ve had several ebikes going back to 2007, and I’ve had many other bikes. Some very high quality bikes. This Como is just superb. Very smooth and solid feeling. Rides like a truly high quality bike. I do have a...

electricbikereview.com

So you couldn't take yours apart?

 

[Stefan Mikes]

That's why I don't like the Shimano quick links / KMC missing links. Get the SRAM powerlock quick link next time. No special tool needed and reusable.

Thank you. Easily available for both 11 and 12 speeds.

Buying a chain gauge is a waste of money if you have a digital caliper at hand which is even more precise. I use the caliper method: 10 stretched chain links measured from centre to centre, 127mm is new - 128mm is OK but time to change - 129mm is a bit too late and worn teeth are likely. The chain gauge method is less precise and could lead to unnessary early chain exchange.

Thank you for the advice!

The new chains: 127 mm. The Trance chain: 128 mm. The Vado chain: 129 mm (oops!)

And for your attempt to clean the cassette: just send it to @Sierratim, I trust he would love to show you how it can be done properly
:

Specialized Turbo Vado/Como/Tero/Tero X User Club

I got my Como 4.0 about a month ago. Already 500 miles on it. Fabulous bike! I’ve had several ebikes going back to 2007, and I’ve had many other bikes. Some very high quality bikes. This Como is just superb. Very smooth and solid feeling. Rides like a truly high quality bike. I do have a...

electricbikereview.com

So you couldn't take yours apart?

Don't want to!

 

[Stefan Mikes]

@TS25: what exactly tool is necessary to remove/replace the cassette? I have noticed the 40 Nm indication. Could you describe the process? Not that I'm paranoiac about the cassette: it is probably still fine...

 

[TS25]

The new chains: 127 mm. The Trance chain: 128 mm. The Vado chain: 129 mm (oops!)

Measured at various places? Maybe that's the price for speeding (S-ped).

I just measured mine (6 places): 127.3mm after 1.500 miles.

 

[TS25]

@TS25: what exactly tool is necessary to remove/replace the cassette? I have noticed the 40 Nm indication. Could you describe the process? Not that I'm paranoiac about the cassette: it is probably still fine...

You need the Shimano lock ring tool TL-LR15 to unlock the cassette

and the Shimano's dealers manual for the cassette is helpful:
Shimano DM-MBCS001-01.

Manuals & Technical Documents

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Measured at various places? Maybe that's the price for speeding (S-ped).

I just measured mine (6 places): 127.3mm after 1.500 miles.

First of all, that could be the speed. The unknown in the equation is my brother who rode the Vado for a month and he was never slow... He prefers lower cadence in addition to it, however, he learned pedalling fast when he rode the Trance

You need the Shimano lock ring tool TL-LR15 to unlock the cassette

and the Shimano's dealers manual for the cassette is helpful:
Shimano DM-MBCS001-01.

Manuals & Technical Documents

That is really helpful!

 

[rochrunner]

You need the Shimano lock ring tool TL-LR15 to unlock the cassette

and the Shimano's dealers manual for the cassette is helpful:
Shimano DM-MBCS001-01.

Manuals & Technical Documents

Also a chain whip.

 

[TS25]

Also a chain whip.

Yep.
I trust @Stefan Mikes has already started to make his own as shown here

Chain ring tooth selection

@E-Wheels Here a couple of shots, and you can see just how tight everything is in there. Sorry the second one is a bit dark because of the sunlight, but you can see my US Postal water bottle - that will tell you who my hero used to be, but that is another story :). Looks to me like there will...

electricbikereview.com

- from the old exchanged chains.

So is there a new home bike mechanic born already? You wouldn't believe it, would you?

 

[Marcela]

My apologies. I assumed you were using trail mile markers when you referred to "the 1/2 mile mark", etc. What mark are you referring to?

Go back a few pages we already discussed this.

 

[Marcela]

Just my opinion, taking the cassette apart to clean is unnecessary and introduces additional variables into the reliability equation.

How many times can the special thin lock washer be reused?

You have to get the gear interface almost surgically clean, any dirt in this area will introduce play later in the life when it works its way out and the gears become loose, you do not want this to happen.

You need a torque wrench, chain whip, and the socket to interface with the cassette locking ring.

Again, you pick your battles and make your choices. My preference to clean the cassette is a can of starting fluid (ether) for $3 and 2 minutes of time unless I need to change out some gears.

Not saying taking something apart is wrong, I also like to take stuff apart. Just be aware of what the ramifications could be.

I think the cassette requires 40 ft. lbs or some astronomical number to put back together also, that is quite a bit so you might expect to wrestle with it a little.