Specialized Turbo Vado/Como/Tero/Tero X User Club

Sure, way too much info, however, as long as it's available, you only digest and eat what you need or want.
I'm going to experiment over the next few weeks to push the limits and see.
I can say by lessening my assistance and working harder that's great with no challenging terrain, however, as always, it's all dependent on where the rides go, the terrain, etc. so in reality, I do not think that I'd ever get more than 50-60 mikes...ever, unless I lose 50 lbs and the rides are minimal exertion.

I know this might be crazy, but hear me out...if the RIDER outputs more watts, the range is extended.

ride harder, go farther

Only kidding, kinda. Seriously, higher effort from the rider and a higher cadence nets a much easier load on the motor and increased range.

I'll also add that rolling resistance, rotational mass, and aerodynamics play a HUGE role in range. Same thing in road racing.

Lighter wheels, lighter tires, tubeless, and aero bars drastically effect the range. It's the same if I ride my road bike at 250 watts, if I'm on my race bike, Pinarello Dogma with Campagnolo Bora Ultra carbon wheels on Vittoria Corsa race tires, it's crazy easy to sustain a higher speed or go farther. If I'm riding my winter bike which weighs over 10lbs more and has much heavier wheels and tires I can't go near as far or as fast at the same effort.

Factor in weather/terrain and we're all wasting our breaths. Which is usually how range conversations go.
 
How can the average and maximum heart rate both be 122 bpm? That would imply that your heart rate stayed exactly steady at 122 bpm for 50 minutes. Maybe your heart rate sensor was malfunctioning?

Apple watch, 1st time ever using the Blevo app, still understanding is, so I too will ultimately digest the functionality and the data generated. Lots to digest.
 
I know this might be crazy, but hear me out...if the RIDER outputs more watts, the range is extended.

ride harder, go farther

Only kidding, kinda. Seriously, higher effort from the rider and a higher cadence nets a much easier load on the motor and increased range.

I'll also add that rolling resistance, rotational mass, and aerodynamics play a HUGE role in range. Same thing in road racing.

Lighter wheels, lighter tires, tubeless, and aero bars drastically effect the range. It's the same if I ride my road bike at 250 watts, if I'm on my race bike, Pinarello Dogma with Campagnolo Bora Ultra carbon wheels on Vittoria Corsa race tires, it's crazy easy to sustain a higher speed or go farther. If I'm riding my winter bike which weighs over 10lbs more and has much heavier wheels and tires I can't go near as far or as fast at the same effort.

Factor in weather/terrain and we're all wasting our breaths. Which is usually how range conversations go.
Brendon, I hear you.

If the same e-bike is ridden under the same conditions by two different riders;
or, two similar e-bikes are ridden on a group ride;
and one of the riders gets as much as twice range as the other one
then the range difference can only be attributed to the rider's output.

I like recollecting the last ride of this Summer we had with my brother. He was riding Trance E+ with 625 Wh battery, and I rode Vado with 604 Wh one. The significant part of the ride was off-road. After some 75 km (around 47th mile), I had to replace the first Vado battery. The plan was Jacek would replace the Trance battery, too, we would put high assistance on and return home fast by paved roads. At that moment, Jacek discovered he forgot the battery key... To be able to get back, he simply increased his own output. When we covered 75 miles sharp (120.3 km), he still had as much as 28% of the first battery left! And we rode fast (I used the Turbo mode on that segment). Thoughts?

Jacek is often asked by by casual people and friends: "How far will this e-bike go on a battery?" to which my brother makes a mysterious smile and replies: "As far as your legs will propel it..." Or, "Is it bike equipped with a throttle?" -- "Yes. It's called the pedals" :D
 
Oh, Marcela, that's one of the most standard, mass produced bike parts. You are looking up the "bike stem riser 1-1/8". (It follows the A-HEAD standard).


Any of them is very good. All of them are adjustable. All of them use provided spacers to achieve the desired handlebars height. I suggest not buying a too tall extender though because the Vado cable slack will be the limiting factor of around 70 mm of stem rise.

When fastening the vertical screw, pay attention the wheel can still be turned easily, there is enough of cable slack but there mustn't be any play in the fork (in the steer bearings) when you move your bike forwards and backwards with the front brake lever depressed.

I've used those stem risers Stefan. I thought you were referring to something that looked like the unique one piece Specialized uses. That only Specialized uses. That is unique and unavailable to the rest of the world, except for Specialized decided to use a one piece unique to this planet handlebar stem:).
 
I’m back with my rant about how my 2020 Vado 5.0 transformed with the 7.1.1 firmware update.
I still feel that much of the natural cycling feeling disappeared in Eco mode at lower speeds ( 0 - ≈ 12mph). The power pulse seems to to be longer for each pedal stroke and it if I ride Eco 35/35 or 30/30 as I did before it feels almost like when I occasionally went into Sport mode.
There is a ”push” that wasn’t there before. Like when coming near a stop and you need one more pedal stroke to e.g the traffic light. That stroke sometimes gives a push that is unexpectedly strong. In Eco mode.
Add to this the reduced range. I can still go 70 miles without emptying the battrey completely so no catastrophe here.
Just as annoying as this reduction of natural feeling and range is the fact that it is impossible to get information and straight answers from Specialized. Like trying to communicate with Apple about your mobile devices.
Still riding my Vado as I really like how it handles and how strong it is.
Got this cross stitch work as a birthday present this summer.
1601385033084.jpeg

And also, I very much like my suspension seatpost🙂
 
Use BLEvo, Peranders. I fell in love with it. (Unless the motor tuning section that suddenly started working will detune my Vado) :)
 
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Brendon, I hear you.

If the same e-bike is ridden under the same conditions by two different riders;
or, two similar e-bikes are ridden on a group ride;
and one of the riders gets as much as twice range as the other one
then the range difference can only be attributed to the rider's output.

I like recollecting the last ride of this Summer we had with my brother. He was riding Trance E+ with 625 Wh battery, and I rode Vado with 604 Wh one. The significant part of the ride was off-road. After some 75 km (around 47th mile), I had to replace the first Vado battery. The plan was Jacek would replace the Trance battery, too, we would put high assistance on and return home fast by paved roads. At that moment, Jacek discovered he forgot the battery key... To be able to get back, he simply increased his own output. When we covered 75 miles sharp (120.3 km), he still had as much as 28% of the first battery left! And we rode fast (I used the Turbo mode on that segment). Thoughts?

Jacek is often asked by by casual people and friends: "How far will this e-bike go on a battery?" to which my brother makes a mysterious smile and replies: "As far as your legs will propel it..." Or, "Is it bike equipped with a throttle?" -- "Yes. It's called the pedals" :D

Couple years ago we had a reunion for our collegiate cycling team. One of the guys picked up a great smoking habit. At the time we had our first Bosch class 3 bike so I had him ride that on a 75 mile road ride. He ended up motorpacing us the last 10 miles at 28mph and still had about 10 miles left (according to the dash).

So many folks are concerned with "range" and it's understandable, but often not relevant to the riding they want to do. My commute to the shop is about 26kms or 17 miles, I've seen anywhere from 35-60% of battery left all due to weather/wind and my output.
 
So many folks are concerned with "range" and it's understandable, but often not relevant to the riding they want to do.
Good thought Brendon. At this point this 63 year old bony ass 175 lb. rider doesn't ride more than 25 miles in a session. The battery on my Vado SL 5 can handle that trip regardless of the level of assist I use, the hills I climb or the headwind I'm riding into. I'm sure as time goes on, my rides will get longer but I suspect I'll be using assist less. Plan B will be a range extender battery-if I can find one.
 
I’m back with my rant about how my 2020 Vado 5.0 transformed with the 7.1.1 firmware update.
I just got a new motor for my 2020 Como 5.0. It, and my old motor, is on 7.1.1 firmware. The old motor was updated before replacement and the new motor came with 7.1.1. I mmediately noticed how much more difficult it was to attain higher speeds beyond 23 -24 mph, even on a level paved bike path. Getting to 28 is very very hard. Using Turbo and fastest gear. Old was faster and easier than the new. Anyone else have a new motor and notice this?
 
So many folks are concerned with "range" and it's understandable, but often not relevant to the riding they want to do. My commute to the shop is about 26kms or 17 miles, I've seen anywhere from 35-60% of battery left all due to weather/wind and my output.
Sorry for revisiting this subject.
People often think of different types of resistance when considering battery range:
  • Rolling resistance: Outcome of terrain type, tyre width, tread type, inflation pressure. The rolling resistance is most significant at low speeds but it is present during the whole ride
  • Mechanical resistances: For example chain not oiled properly
  • Air resistance: Wind direction and speed, riding position, area taken by the rider's body and equipment such as panniers, bike speed. Significant at higher speed and a large contribution to the resistance at very high speed (bike but also headwind combined).
Now, we have the change in the potential energy. To gain elevation, we need to input energy to rise the complete bike with rider and the cargo at given height.

And something often forgotten: The kinetic energy. To accelerate to given speed, we need to provide energy equal to
Kinetic energy change = 1/2 *m * DeltaV^2, where m is the total mass and DeltaV is the speed increase.

Meaning, if we want to accelerate to high speed, we need to use our leg power and battery charge to "charge" our total mass on the bike with kinetic energy. Whenever we have to brake, the potential energy gained is irreversibly lost in our brakes as dissipated heat.

That's why an urban commuting cyclist cannot predict the battery range at all because he or she cannot predict how many times the bike will have to slow down or stop. (Brendon commutes very fast so the kinetic energy factor is significant in his case).
 
So many folks are concerned with "range" and it's understandable, but often not relevant to the riding they want to do.
You are not completely wrong:D;)
In my case we could say my range concern is not relevant to the daily riding I do. Usually I don’t charge to more than 80% and rarely go below 30% with my 600Wh battery.
BUT... my range concern is relevant to the riding I WANT TO do. My longest ride ( last summer) was 80km. I had plans for longer rides this summer but it didn’t work out for me. Still want to make longer rides and know that I have a margin so I can go into sport mode if I get tired or hit headwind or anything.
 
My 2 cents.
I'd not like to experience "range anxiety", as I did as an early adopter with a 2013 For Focus Electric.
Sure, in the middle of the winter, turn on the seat warmers, the defrosters, the headlights, and the range of 90 miles is cut in 1/2.
That's the way is WAS.
This is 2020, 7+ years later, and although Elon Musk is promising better range with 'his' equipment, it is when WE will have that luxury.
Not may of us care about doing more than 40 or 50 miles with our e-bikes, but in time, as we build up our endurance and have the capability, it's a comfortable feeling to know that it's one thing less to have to worry about.
My 2 cents.
 
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Sorry for revisiting this subject.
People often think of different types of resistance when considering battery range:
  • Rolling resistance: Outcome of terrain type, tyre width, tread type, inflation pressure. The rolling resistance is most significant at low speeds but it is present during the whole ride
  • Mechanical resistances: For example chain not oiled properly
  • Air resistance: Wind direction and speed, riding position, area taken by the rider's body and equipment such as panniers, bike speed. Significant at higher speed and a large contribution to the resistance at very high speed (bike but also headwind combined).
Now, we have the change in the potential energy. To gain elevation, we need to input energy to rise the complete bike with rider and the cargo at given height.

And something often forgotten: The kinetic energy. To accelerate to given speed, we need to provide energy equal to
Kinetic energy change = 1/2 *m * DeltaV^2, where m is the total mass and DeltaV is the speed increase.

Meaning, if we want to accelerate to high speed, we need to use our leg power and battery charge to "charge" our total mass on the bike with kinetic energy. Whenever we have to brake, the potential energy gained is irreversibly lost in our brakes as dissipated heat.

That's why an urban commuting cyclist cannot predict the battery range at all because he or she cannot predict how many times the bike will have to slow down or stop. (Brendon commutes very fast so the kinetic energy factor is significant in his case).
Excellent point re urban commuting, my main mode of Como riding. Makes sense.
 
I carry the second battery in a pannier. Stopping and switching batteries takes a minute.
Yes I'm so happy having the 2nd battery now. Just as you said, it really is pretty quick and easy to pull over and change the battery. I forgot who asked but I did use the 2nd battery without a cover (as I was waiting the 2 weeks for it to arrive :) I just cleaned it after every ride and made sure not to ride it/ have it exposed during downpours.


So what was the verdict on when to charge. Do you guys top off after each ride...Charge but stop the charge when it is around 80% or just plug it in after a ride and let it recharge? I remember reading different school of thoughts of this earlier...now that I have a 2nd battery I am willing to be a little more responsible :)
 
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