Specialized Turbo Vado/Como/Tero/Tero X User Club

I imagine their are separate trunk bags and panniers that can attach to the rack separately or together, but the Racktime Talis and Blackburn Grocery panniers aren’t them. Oh well.
We enjoy riding the Jedediah Smith Trail as well. Very scenic year round.

As you've discovered, the Vado Racktime rack won't accept any clip on panniers when using a Racktime trunk style bag due to interference of the clips and the trunk bag. I was disappointed to discover this esp since the Racktime racks on our mech bikes can accept clip ons with Racktime bags with a second horizontal rail.

Others have reported good results using the Racktime panniers and then fastening their Racktime trunk bag to the pannier frame. Apparently this is just 4 screws that match the original holes in the trunk bag.
 
Marcela - I agree, no problem on trails if speed is kept within reason. It isn't a mtn bike, but the stock tires are pretty wide.

I am old-school when it comes to hub noise....I like people to hear me, and if I am in the forest I want critters to hear me coming and get outta the way (I have learned my level of bravery alone in the forest, particularly on night rides, is low:)). Chris King angry bees lives on:). But these days I think I am in the minority.

A tri allen with 5mm is great for taking out axle. Bit on the tri will go real deep, which is handy on axles made of soft materials. and you can get pretty comfortable leverage with the arms on the tri too.
 
I know. I’m familiar with specialized and their setup and happy with their products, and they are local. I may investigate giant and trek, they both have local shops also. I’m under the impression specialized emtb are pretty nice.

Thx for the offer, you can make suggestions if you want.
I will start with saying it is not easy to get a full suspension commuter e-bike, and it is highly improbable that any of the Big Three would go into that direction. Riese & Muller are one of very few brands to offer FS commuter and touring e-bikes; these are very expensive and heavy.

A brand that comes to my mind now that offers FS e-bikes in the category is Bulls Bikes (a German brand).

Class 1, Bosch-based:

Class 3, Bosch-based:

Another brand is Moustache Bikes (French). Here is their Class 3, FS, Bosch-based e-bike (they also offer Class 1 models):

Please note that such bikes come with road-optimized tyres, rack, fenders and lighting.

Are you really interested with e-MTB? Since I own one, I can tell you these shine off-road only. Majority of e-MTB are of Class 1 (Bulls are one of few to make a Class 3 e-MTB), most of them offer far shorter battery range than Vado, and these are not equipped with rack, fenders or lighting. Especially riding with a backpack is not what we owners of Vado like the best. The fat, knobby e-MTB tyres are a nuisance on paved surfaces... I bought the Giant Trance E+ because I discovered I liked off-road rides in the forest. In most of situations I have to transport my e-MTB near to a forest with my car. If you, however, like the idea, you cannot lose with Specialized Turbo Levo Comp. I chose the Giant Trance E+ Pro 2 because I couldn't buy a Levo; the Trance turned out to be a beautiful, well made and truly affordable e-MTB.
 
It would have to be Class 3, something like the Kenevo or Levo, and install tires with smaller width, like the Vado, and air suspension. I came this close to buying an R&M, but thought for the price of one of those I could have a couple Ebikes:), and a proper emtb to carve the sidewalks and streets.

I have no interest in an SL. And I wouldn't mind converting a class 1 to 3 if it wasn't too much of a hassle, but OEM is more agreeable with warranty.
 
It would have to be Class 3, something like the Kenevo or Levo, and install tires with smaller width, like the Vado, and air suspension. I came this close to buying an R&M, but thought for the price of one of those I could have a couple Ebikes:), and a proper emtb to carve the sidewalks and streets.

I have no interest in an SL. And I wouldn't mind converting a class 1 to 3 if it wasn't too much of a hassle, but OEM is more agreeable with warranty.

I'm pretty sure you can't convert class 1 to 3 as the physical parts in the motor are different, but I could be incorrect. We're a Bulls dealer and they make a great full suspension class 3 bike. It's a bit of an odd duck as Stephan pointed out as it's being asked to reach pretty far with being a speed bike as well as full suspension mountain bike. You're better suited with two separate bikes, but if you do want it all, I'd go Bulls.

Don't expect any of the Big 3 to make a class 3 full suspension as it really doesn't make sense in any market. It's not likely to be allowed on any trails and it won't have the low end torque MTB people want as. Smaller brands can hit this market segment, a la Bulls.
 
Thank you !
I have the STL file and a .stp file from my son's 3D printer. The STL is what's used for 3D printing and the STP can be opened by any cad software in case someone wants to modify it.

Unfortuntely this forum will only accept uploads of files in zip, .txt, .pdf, .png, .jpg, .jpeg, .jpe, .gif formats. PM me with your email and I'll send these files over to you.
 
Dreaming don't cost a thing.

Not at all and it never hurts to ask either! I've had quite a bit of experience with R&M bikes, you had mentioned those. They're great at offering dual suspension in a speed bike for folks not looking for a proper MTB and that don't need all of the suspension travel.
 
After I bought the Vado 5.0, I changed the tubes from Presta to Schrader, went down to the Wally store and bought tubes with the slime already installed.

Ever since, the tires haven't needed any air. Usually air needs to be installed at least every couple weeks. Here is my question, with the air being at least a couple months old, should it be changed out for fresh air? Can old air damage the tubes and lead to a blow out, or worse, damage to the bike? When i was a kid I would change out the air completely at least once a year.

Any other maintenance I should be aware of:)?
 
After I bought the Vado 5.0, I changed the tubes from Presta to Schrader, went down to the Wally store and bought tubes with the slime already installed.

Ever since, the tires haven't needed any air. Usually air needs to be installed at least every couple weeks. Here is my question, with the air being at least a couple months old, should it be changed out for fresh air? Can old air damage the tubes and lead to a blow out, or worse, damage to the bike? When i was a kid I would change out the air completely at least once a year.

Any other maintenance I should be aware of:)?

Interesting question, haven't heard it before! In my experience I wouldn't worry about it. Do be aware of the slime gumming up the valves possibly giving you a false pressure reading or blocking air going into the tube.

Edit: I skipped your last question, sorry about that. The chain is the first wear point on mid drive e bikes. Keep it lubed regularly, especially if you're riding in wet/muddy terrain. Cleaning can be done with WD40 and a rag, there are other more potent cleaners out there too. There are tons of chain lubes on the market, I like Dumond Tech or Finish Line Wet.
 
Interesting question, haven't heard it before! In my experience I wouldn't worry about it. Do be aware of the slime gumming up the valves possibly giving you a false pressure reading or blocking air going into the tube.

Edit: I skipped your last question, sorry about that. The chain is the first wear point on mid drive e bikes. Keep it lubed regularly, especially if you're riding in wet/muddy terrain. Cleaning can be done with WD40 and a rag, there are other more potent cleaners out there too. There are tons of chain lubes on the market, I like Dumond Tech or Finish Line Wet.
I clean my chain every 300 jiles or so, more if I ride in dusty conditions.

I'd also suggest you check your chain stretch regularly. Mid-dive motors do put more stress on the chain thus faster wear. One Vado owner reported replacing his chain at 2,000 miles. Too late, the chainring was already worn into the chain. It had to be replaced as well.

I replaced my Vado chain at just over 1,000 miles. Did a deep clean of the cassette and gave the chairing and derailleur a good scrub with a light lube at the derailleur pivot points. No other work was needed.
 
I clean my chain every 300 jiles or so, more if I ride in dusty conditions.

I'd also suggest you check your chain stretch regularly. Mid-dive motors do put more stress on the chain thus faster wear. One Vado owner reported replacing his chain at 2,000 miles. Too late, the chainring was already worn into the chain. It had to be replaced as well.

I replaced my Vado chain at just over 1,000 miles. Did a deep clean of the cassette and gave the chairing and derailleur a good scrub with a light lube at the derailleur pivot points. No other work was needed.

Yep, the chain is cheap insurance and the last part to nurse life out of. Riding here in Oregon, both on my winter bike and e bike I replace the chain every 1k miles.
 
Here's my brother Jacek's latest performance on my Vado. 100.9 km and still 1/3 of the 604 Wh battery left! The maximum range would be 150 km (93 mi), while the practical range is 144 km (90 miles). Jacek had the motor set to 20/20 assistance for all the modes to not to be tempted for more pedal-assistance :D We rode both (I rode my Lovelec) and we had average speed of 25.12 km/h (15.6 mph). Note: Jacek could maintain over 35 km/h (21.7 mph) for 7 km (4.3 mi) at that assistance level. We actually caught up with a road-cyclist over that distance :D

received_930720520675000.jpeg


Can anyone tell me if it is possible to save an assistance level below 20% in Mission Control? Jacek could not do it with his iPhone.

My brother has returned the Vado to me after a month's use. He delivered the bike in the condition better than at the beginning of the lease. He has even made a new mudflap for the front fender, and it looks like the original!
 
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Here's my brother Jacek's latest performance on my Vado. 100.9 km and still 1/3 of the 604 Wh battery left! The maximum range would be 150 km (93 mi), while the practical range is 144 km (90 miles). Jacek had the motor set to 20/20 assistance for all the modes to not to be tempted for more pedal-assistance :D We rode both (I rode my Lovelec) and we had average speed of 15.12 km/h (15.6 mph). Note: Jacek could maintain over 35 km/h (21.7 mph) for 7 km (4.3 mi) at that assistance level. We actually caught up with a road-cyclist over that distance :D

View attachment 57174

Can anyone tell me if it is possible to save an assistance level below 20% in Mission Control? Jacek could not do it with his iPhone.

My brother has returned the Vado to me after a month's use. He delivered the bike in the condition better than at the beginning of the lease. He has even made a new mudflap for the front fender, and it looks like the original!
Stefan, I just checked this. On my LG Android phone I can save TUNE settings as low as 10% for Power and 0% for Support in ECO. I didn't try the other modes, gotta go on my ride...😎
 
Thank you, Tim! Jacek is not the best with the software ;) His other skills are more valuable.
 
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Vado veterans: my rides have been pretty tame so far. But I do have a bit of anxiety regarding flats. What should I have in my trunk bag for quick fixes? I hope I don’t need to remove the rear wheel, especially on the trail.

Still on my OEM Triggers. I think @Sierratim mentioned thorn strips? I see there are slime inner tubes... Some people have gone to different tires?

Please advise.

(BTW, I did get an A2 air inflator from Cycplus and just got a Topeak D2 smart gauge.)
 
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Here's my brother Jacek's latest performance on my Vado. 100.9 km and still 1/3 of the 604 Wh battery left! The maximum range would be 150 km (93 mi), while the practical range is 144 km (90 miles). Jacek had the motor set to 20/20 assistance for all the modes to not to be tempted for more pedal-assistance :D We rode both (I rode my Lovelec) and we had average speed of 25.12 km/h (15.6 mph). Note: Jacek could maintain over 35 km/h (21.7 mph) for 7 km (4.3 mi) at that assistance level. We actually caught up with a road-cyclist over that distance :D

View attachment 57174

Can anyone tell me if it is possible to save an assistance level below 20% in Mission Control? Jacek could not do it with his iPhone.

My brother has returned the Vado to me after a month's use. He delivered the bike in the condition better than at the beginning of the lease. He has even made a new mudflap for the front fender, and it looks like the original!

Wow Stephan, Brother Jacek returned the Vado in better condition than what you keep it?!! Hard to believe. That is one pampered ebike. 😍:)
 
Vado veterans: my rides have been pretty tame so far. But I do have a bit of anxiety regarding flats. What should I have in my trunk bag for quick fixes? I hope I don’t need to remove the rear wheel, especially on the trail.

Still on my OEM Triggers. I think @Sierratim mentioned thorn strips? I see there are slime inner tubes... Some people have gone to different tires?

Please advise.

(BTW, I did get an A2 air inflator from Cycplus and just got a Topeak D2 smart gauge.)
There are entire threads decided just to tires! With the thorn strips, I find the OEM Trigger an easy-riding tire good for pavement and packed gravel. Not so much for loose gravel. I'll be upgrading to Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires for a C19 delayed but still upcoming tour we've planned. I'll keep the thorn strips.

Flats are a fact of life. There are also threads dedicated to this. It's good to be prepared with the right kit and practiced skills. I predict with near 100% certainty that you will have a rear-wheel flat so be ready! I work with local youth groups interested in cycling. They all need to be able to fix their own rear-wheel flat before we do our 2nd ride together, 'cause their mama isn't on the ride with them!

My flat kit includes steel core tire levers, spare tube (powdered with talc in a zip lock), patch kit (1" patches, sandpaper, glue), CO2 inflator & 3-16g cartridges (~$1ea in quantity, it takes 1-1/2 cartridges to fill up a Vado tire), mini pump, and a 'tire boot' (a temp fix for a tire slash, $1 bills work fine folded over). My general practice is to repair a flat by putting in the spare tube and inflating with CO2 so I'm back on the trail as soon as possible. I'll fix the flatted tube at home. But, life happens. My record is 3 flats in one day hence the patch kit and hand pump. BTW - my wife carries the same kit when we ride together. She even fixes her own flats, most of the time. Park Tool has excellent free videos on this and just about any other bike maintenance topic.

I don't consider it a part of my flat kit, but I also carry a bike-specific mutli-tool on every ride. This is important for flat repairs on the Vado and Como as their though axles require a hex wrench to remove. No tool, no flat repair! I've carried a Topeak Alien II bike tool for years, but there are lots of choices.

I don't put Slime in my tubes, though others report good results with this. My main reason is the possible mess. I had a blow out a week or two ago that would have gotten goo all over everything. I followed by normal practice and rode on none the worse, not counting the 17 minutes it took to pull the rear wheel and reinstall with the spare tube. This tube was trashed with a 16" long split along a seam. Got a new tube from 'stock' and put it in the kit for the next ride as soon as I got home.
 
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