Specialized Turbo Vado/Como/Tero/Tero X User Club

A 44 chainring with 11 cog will get you 29 mph with 95 cadence. Looks like each 2 teeth you add will give you about 1.5 mph at the top end.
I agree with you. Only I do not need to be able to reach the max speed (as it is controlled by air-drag anyway) but would like to retain the solid low end if possible. Hence 42 instead of 44T. (My typical cadence of 76-86 would keep me at 40-44 km/h in the 11th gear, and I never need to be able to ride past the 45 km/h speed limiter).

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Am I correct?
 
Sounds right to me. You want to creep up on the point man. If you go too fast they'll know you're using electric.
Oh, they are perfectly aware I'm riding a speed electric bike! :) And an able roadie can get onto > 28 mph easily when we're racing. It is enough for me to keep closely to the maximum assisted speed. The other guy will lose his interest in racing soon! :)
 
Garbaruk Bike Components

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All I knew before was Garbaruk was a renowned bike components manufacturer. When I got my 42T chainring, I spotted the bar code for Poland (EAN code 590)! What gives? And I found a story on the internet. Garbaruk is a Ukrainian company manufacturing in the industrial city of Nowa Huta, South Poland (near to Cracow). Yay! And just think I had to import the Garbaruk chainring from Germany...
 
Is that aluminum? I am using the Praxis chain ring, think it's made in california or that is where there office is and it's made of steel and it has the threaded fastener holes.
 
Is that aluminum? I am using the Praxis chain ring, think it's made in california or that is where there office is and it's made of steel and it has the threaded fastener holes.
Yes, that's aluminium.
Smaller MTB chainrings like your 36T or my 38T (and of course even smaller ones) are often made of steel. The reason is the load is spread over fewer teeth, making the ring vulnerable to wear. Bigger rings are typically made of aluminium to save on their weight (and the load is being spread over more teeth).
 
Yes, that's aluminium.
Smaller MTB chainrings like your 36T or my 38T (and of course even smaller ones) are often made of steel. The reason is the load is spread over fewer teeth, making the ring vulnerable to wear. Bigger rings are typically made of aluminium to save on their weight (and the load is being spread over more teeth).

Yes, but is aluminum stronger than aluminium or is it the other way round? :p
 
I insist on writing in British English! :) Interestingly, the British version for Al is the same as in Polish, although formally the element is named "glin" (made of clay) in Polish :)

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Garbaruk 42T chainring installed! Since I had been swapping chainrings on my Vado before, it was a fairly easy work. Moreover, I didn't need to replace the chain! The one I have installed is 124 links; it was a tad too long for the old 38T ring, and is within acceptable limits for the 42T one!

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I even could re-use the existing 8x8 mm steel chainring bolts. My Vado can still accelerate perfectly, it is still a great climber but it is easier for me to get on a higher speed now. I expect I would be riding in lower gears now, which is good for the cassette longevity.
 
I insist on writing in British English! :) Interestingly, the British version for Al is the same as in Polish, although formally the element is named "glin" (made of clay) in Polish :)
Oh, here I thought you were talking about AI - artificial intelligence. Then, aha, although the way those Brits pronounce it - I don't know - they make it a five hundred syllable word. o_O
 
An interesting observation related to battery behaviour for both all SL and full power Vado e-bikes.

SL e-bikes:
If you use the Range Extender to be discharged first, the assistance drops very much between 6 and 5%, and eventually the system cuts the Range Extender off completely. In the battery % display on a Wahoo, it is like 100/5% to quickly change to 100/0%, and there the main battery kicks in. I could not determine what happens at low battery level if both batteries were used in parallel yet.

Full power Vado:
I've always thought the motor was cut off at 5% of the battery level. Recently, I needed to ride for a kilometre more after the apparent motor cut-off. What a surprise I got when I looked at the BLEvo data for that segment! Yes, the motor still assists you below the 5% battery level! It is only rather symbolic assistance of 60-70 W (electrical). Still good to ride a fully loaded heavy e-bike at 18 km/h!
 
Maybe something has changed with one of the updates.
I think Marcela we all have been fooled by the perceived difference in the assistance between the "normal" and "weakened" assistance. If the battery pumps, say, 230 W into the motor and it suddenly becomes 69 W, we think the motor got cut off.
 
I think Marcela we all have been fooled by the perceived difference in the assistance between the "normal" and "weakened" assistance. If the battery pumps, say, 230 W into the motor and it suddenly becomes 69 W, we think the motor got cut off.
On my Vado 5 SL If I discharge RE first, power/assistance drops - at anywhere between 106%-103%. It continues to stay in that dropped spot - until it comes back on full at 96%-98%. Someone here explained why it happens. I hate it. But if you plan to use two RE it is the best way to ride. If you do not set it to discharge RE first, then there is no transitional drop. That part is great, but you do not get the full power from the RE's then, if you plan to change to a second RE. Yesterday I rode 45 miles, at 70% assistance (for about 90% of the ride), with 1850 feet of climb. I started the ride with 150%. Upon return home I had 27% left. For curiosity sake I put my other fully charged RE in and the power only went up to 67%. Thus 10% more of the main battery must have drained, leaving more charge on the used RE. (That's my conclusion). I have concluded the best way to ride, planning to use two RE's; - assuming access to charging is not an issue, is to Discharge RE first on the first RE. When you have that one fully drained - at about 98% power, pull it out, put in the 2nd RE and change the settings to turn OFF discharge RE first.
 
On my Vado 5 SL If I discharge RE first, power/assistance drops - at anywhere between 106%-103%. It continues to stay in that dropped spot - until it comes back on full at 96%-98%. Someone here explained why it happens. I hate it. But if you plan to use two RE it is the best way to ride. If you do not set it to discharge RE first, then there is no transitional drop. That part is great, but you do not get the full power from the RE's then, if you plan to change to a second RE. Yesterday I rode 45 miles, at 70% assistance (for about 90% of the ride), with 1850 feet of climb. I started the ride with 150%. Upon return home I had 27% left. For curiosity sake I put my other fully charged RE in and the power only went up to 67%. Thus 10% more of the main battery must have drained, leaving more charge on the used RE. (That's my conclusion). I have concluded the best way to ride, planning to use two RE's; - assuming access to charging is not an issue, is to Discharge RE first on the first RE. When you have that one fully drained - at about 98% power, pull it out, put in the 2nd RE and change the settings to turn OFF discharge RE first.
That is very interesting as I plan to add a second RE as soon as they become available at my LBS.
BikeOn, the way of reporting of the combined battery charge (as 150%) is the most confusing for me. Both Wahoo ELEMNT (and I think Garmin Edge too) as well as BLEvo app give individual charge for each battery. It is very clear and helps planning the battery strategy easier!

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It is 5% for the Range Extender when the assistance drops, and it becomes 0 when the main battery kicks in.
 
That is very interesting as I plan to add a second RE as soon as they become available at my LBS.
BikeOn, the way of reporting of the combined battery charge (as 150%) is the most confusing for me. Both Wahoo ELEMNT (and I think Garmin Edge too) as well as BLEvo app give individual charge for each battery. It is very clear and helps planning the battery strategy easier!

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It is 5% for the Range Extender when the assistance drops, and it becomes 0 when the main battery kicks in.
Thanks -- I use the on board bike computer, not a wahoo. It does not give separate battery reads - nor does my MC. Just reads it as one unit.
 
That is very interesting as I plan to add a second RE as soon as they become available at my LBS.
BikeOn, the way of reporting of the combined battery charge (as 150%) is the most confusing for me. Both Wahoo ELEMNT (and I think Garmin Edge too) as well as BLEvo app give individual charge for each battery. It is very clear and helps planning the battery strategy easier!

View attachment 114843
It is 5% for the Range Extender when the assistance drops, and it becomes 0 when the main battery kicks in.
I may not have the Creo paired correctly or fully with my Edge 1030+. I don't really see the battery info as clearly as I would like. Or do I need to install one of the 3rd party apps?
 
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