Nwr2339
Member
Shrader Valve. I'll try the cotton ball trick though. Thanks!
Specialized Turbo Vado/Como/Tero/Tero X User Club
- Thread starter Stefan Mikes
- Start date
Nwr2339
Member
Ended up being 2 unrelated incidents. First one was a valve issue. Second one was a hair width steel sliver that barley pierced the tire and into the tube. Just bad luck I guess. All good now though.
The motor bolts? 18 Nm said LBS. So not `´published´´.
That’s pretty good. Equates to 13 ft lb and I used 10 so I’ll see if it holds.
kahn
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- northWET washington
How to make sure your dealers make more than sufficient profit.
What is irritating in this time of covid is that bike shops are already backed up and repairs take longer than usual.
kahn
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- northWET washington
There's an idea out there that people should be able to repair and maintain their own "toys" and that manufacturers should not be able to limit owner access to parts or repair. I guess I've read more about this in terms of cell phones and tablets and laptops. There tend to be welded or glued seams on many of those items making it hard/impossible to gain access.
There are videos on how to get to the Specialized internal batteries and drop the motor. I don't know if they go into specifics on torque values.
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
If TS25 says it is 18 Nm then just trust that guy
lewes5
Member
Installed a new TCD-w in my 2018 Vado 3.0 ??????? But . . . .
I am 78 years old and have been riding my Vado 3 for three years, after trading up from a Trek road bike. Love the Vodo, have gone about 6 to 8k miles over the last several years Recently Specialized replaced my motor as the bearings wore out at the left crank. Subsequently, LBS also replace the BLOKS with a TCD-w. Now, be darned if I can figure how to change the options on each of the five screens.. I should note that I received NO printed materials for the TCD-w from the LBS!
My TCD-w has no buttons below the display, nope, nothing. Unless these two switches are heat or touch sensitive, nothing clicks or moves below the display. What I do have is a "SET" button on top of the Power Assist switch. See photo.
If I hit the SET button, the display cycles through the five screens, That's good. BUT . . . How do I change the options within each screen???? That's the question.
None of the YouTube "how to" vids show this particular TCD-W. Does anyone else have this model. Can anyone send me printed material showing me how to program each of the five screens?
Thank you so much!!
I am 78 years old and have been riding my Vado 3 for three years, after trading up from a Trek road bike. Love the Vodo, have gone about 6 to 8k miles over the last several years Recently Specialized replaced my motor as the bearings wore out at the left crank. Subsequently, LBS also replace the BLOKS with a TCD-w. Now, be darned if I can figure how to change the options on each of the five screens.. I should note that I received NO printed materials for the TCD-w from the LBS!
My TCD-w has no buttons below the display, nope, nothing. Unless these two switches are heat or touch sensitive, nothing clicks or moves below the display. What I do have is a "SET" button on top of the Power Assist switch. See photo.
If I hit the SET button, the display cycles through the five screens, That's good. BUT . . . How do I change the options within each screen???? That's the question.
None of the YouTube "how to" vids show this particular TCD-W. Does anyone else have this model. Can anyone send me printed material showing me how to program each of the five screens?
Thank you so much!!
Attachments
kahn
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- northWET washington
Even if it had come with the printed instructions, it would have been nearly useless unless you have a micro-fiche reader. Seriously, way too small. I did find the instructions on the Specialized site some where. I believe it was a pdf.
Your picture is dark in that area. So yours does not look like this with that "split" in the middle:
I purchased mine separately and it does have barely moveable bars and is not very sensitive. I have a heck of a time resetting it back to "zero" after a ride. If you HOLD the switch that changes screens or hold its main and one of the other buttons does it maybe go into a new setting mode?
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kahn
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- northWET washington
I neglected to say I have the Creo and don't have that power button setup.
But if yours looks like the one in the picture (it is a Specialized picture), the the slot or split actually separates two separate PRESS down 'buttons' but it is anything but obvious. As I wrote, mine are sometimes hard to click and register the press/pressure. Since I don't have your little gizmo, to clear my tcd, I have to press both sides (of the split) simultaneously to reset and more often than not, I miss one or the other button and page through the display rather than resetting the darn thing. So try pressing and holding the LEFT button and it might start the CLOCK blinking. Page through options with the Left, move between 12/24 clock with the right button and press both to select and move on.
I don't see how to attach a pdf file to this thread.
I did an odd thing.
On the Vado a while back I installed a set of handlebars with the same sweep but a rise of about 1.5" or so to make it more upright.
This morning on the Como I removed the granny bars and installed the Vado bar. Since the Como is more upright and doesn't really put any weight on the arms my ass was feeling the brunt of the weight shift, not something I couldn't get used to of course but I didn't ride it enough for that at the moment. I noticed the Vado bars are a little narrower also.
So this moves me forward a minimum amount really, there is not much difference between the two bars, one swept back more and the other narrower. But from the cockpit it looks like a regular bike now and not the boulevard cruiser it is and the narrower bars I think I like also. The forward lean is not as much as I had expected but it will work.
So there you have it, something a little different, something a little tart.
On the Vado a while back I installed a set of handlebars with the same sweep but a rise of about 1.5" or so to make it more upright.
This morning on the Como I removed the granny bars and installed the Vado bar. Since the Como is more upright and doesn't really put any weight on the arms my ass was feeling the brunt of the weight shift, not something I couldn't get used to of course but I didn't ride it enough for that at the moment. I noticed the Vado bars are a little narrower also.
So this moves me forward a minimum amount really, there is not much difference between the two bars, one swept back more and the other narrower. But from the cockpit it looks like a regular bike now and not the boulevard cruiser it is and the narrower bars I think I like also. The forward lean is not as much as I had expected but it will work.
So there you have it, something a little different, something a little tart.
Majority of EBR Forum owners of Specialized e-bikes ride either a Turbo Vado or a Como. This is natural, as these two major models have been designed for an average cyclist. Turbo Levo and Kenevo are technical ride stuff, discussed on e-MTB fora. Creo is for road cycling fanatics
It is quite interesting American versions of Vado are in the majority Class 3 bikes, while the only speed Vado model for Europe is Vado 6.0. Does anybody own the 6.0? Canadians have to be content with the 32 km/h versions, unluckily. (The Australian have to be content with 25 km/h).
I'd like you friends to talk more about your experiences with your Specialized e-bikes, for good and for bad. Please post pictures if you like.
I fell in love with my 2017 Specialized Turbo Vado 5.0, which I bought in Autumn 2019. (I thought of buying a 2019 or 2020 model that would have stretched my budget too far). There are four components and a feature I am extremely happy with in my 2017 model:
The feature is the beautiful grey colour.
- Rigid fork - (2020 update: married with Baramind BAM suspension handlebars; and the Kinekt 2.1 suspension seatpost)
- 29x2" Elektrak tyres (Autumn 2020: Replaced with Schwalbe Smart Sam 47-622 for some off-road capability while staying silent on-road)
- TRP Zurich brakes (the top of the class)
- 600 lm headlight and very strong rear light, illuminating the number plate as well. (2020 update: Following the overhaul from the BLOKS to the TCD-W display, the headlight was replaced by Specialized with a 1700 lm Supernova M99 Pro).
View attachment 45130
When I first mounted the Vado, I was positively shocked with the bike's geometry. So sporty! What I love about my Vado is the agility and the acceleration, both being fantastic, especially in the Sport mode. It is a lot of fun to ride fast!
Now, it is your turn to brag about your Specialized e-bikes!
Sierratim
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Nevada City, CA & Paradise Valley, AZ
My Vado developed an irritating 'chirp' as I rode, even when I wasn't pedaling. It took a while but I realized it was sync'd to wheel rotation, 1 'chirp' per wheel turn, but only with a rider. I cleaned the chain, the chain ring, etc. As it got louder over time I pulled the wheels checking bearing play, spoke tension, checked for loose fenders and finally called my son the bike mech engineer.
He brought over his company's wheel bearing press like this Park Tool model;
www.parktool.com
With moderate pressure he was able to press the rear hub bearings in just a bit more. The 'chirp' was much better, but still there with each wheel rotation.
He took my front wheel home, 3D printed an adapter for the press (gotta love having engineers for sons), and pressed the front bearings. They did move, up to the point the adapter broke!
My bike was 'chirp' free on the next ride, up to about 20 miles. Then it was back, very faint, but still there with each wheel rotation.
My son suggested I try one of his spare wheels, I mean who doesn't have a 1/2 dozen or so thru-axle wheels laying around? Rode up to his place SAT 'chirp' free until after ~3 miles when it was back.
Longish story short, the loaner front wheel fixed it. I rode 20 more miles SAT and no chirp. I'm going to drop off the original wheel to the LBS to see if they can press the bearings competley into place. Otherwise it looks like a new wheel for me, or a chirp that I get really tired of.
What happened? My son believes the wheels are like most, assembled with semi-automated equipment. The bearings probably weren't fully seating when the wheels were built, but they met the pressure spec for the press. After thousands of miles they loosened just a bit. Fully seating them fixes it.
Mystery solved, I hope!
He brought over his company's wheel bearing press like this Park Tool model;
HBP-1 Hub Bearing Press Set
A complete installation kit to quickly and accurately press more than 20 different cartridge bearing sizes into most bicycle hubs.
www.parktool.com
With moderate pressure he was able to press the rear hub bearings in just a bit more. The 'chirp' was much better, but still there with each wheel rotation.
He took my front wheel home, 3D printed an adapter for the press (gotta love having engineers for sons), and pressed the front bearings. They did move, up to the point the adapter broke!
My bike was 'chirp' free on the next ride, up to about 20 miles. Then it was back, very faint, but still there with each wheel rotation.
My son suggested I try one of his spare wheels, I mean who doesn't have a 1/2 dozen or so thru-axle wheels laying around? Rode up to his place SAT 'chirp' free until after ~3 miles when it was back.
Longish story short, the loaner front wheel fixed it. I rode 20 more miles SAT and no chirp. I'm going to drop off the original wheel to the LBS to see if they can press the bearings competley into place. Otherwise it looks like a new wheel for me, or a chirp that I get really tired of.
What happened? My son believes the wheels are like most, assembled with semi-automated equipment. The bearings probably weren't fully seating when the wheels were built, but they met the pressure spec for the press. After thousands of miles they loosened just a bit. Fully seating them fixes it.
Mystery solved, I hope!
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