Specialized Turbo Vado/Como/Tero/Tero X User Club

Mission Control Has Just Told Me...
...updates were waiting for my Vado at a local Specialized dealer. Now, I'm not fond of the original LBS that sold the Vado to me. Not enthusiastic enough as to say. I wrote a Facebook PM to Specialized Warsaw and despite they start working at noon, I got an invitation to see them as early as at 10 a.m. (!) They only ask me to bring the warranty card (so they're sure the bike was not a stolen one).

A long ride awaiting me then :) Much deserved!
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By principal roads, 34 km, outbound ride.

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The return via more interesting route with a little bit of easy off-road, 32 km.


Excited!
 
Looky ... Looky ...It recognizes Stefan's display !
The only thing the technician was mystified about was the display! He didn't know he had to remove a screw to remove the TCD-W (he tried to twist the display out as it is done with the TCD). Once he recognised his mistake, he reached the USB port that was at the bottom of the display and all went well :)
 
Not everyone here might have already heard the latest stories about my Vado.

During the last days of December, I had to ride in the rain to meet my yearly 5000 mile goal. When re-starting the ride, especially in puddles, I could hear nasty noise from the front wheel. With faster riding, the noise was not that brutal but it was still audible. On Sunday 3rd of January, I rode to my brother (the famous 70+ km route I so often take) for a diagnosis. Jacek's verdict was simple: "The bearings in the front wheel are destroyed. The seals don't hold anymore, so when rainwater and dirt get into the bearing, the noise is louder. I cannot help you this time because I miss the cap puller. I also cannot determine the bearing size without removing the cap. Go to the Specialized service this time. Next time, I will be able to do the replacement myself".

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On Monday, boys at the Specialized Brand Store Warsaw welcomed me with open arms. Now I know the sealed ball bearings (in my specific/specialized heheh model) are MR 18307 (18x30x7 mm), and the Spesh boys used Enduro Bearings. I could collect the repaired wheel on the next day (today). I'm enchanted with the quality of the service and the personnel attitude at Specialized Warsaw!

The next issue detected by Jacek have been worn brake pads (almost new ones!) in the front brake. You know why? The bike mechanic in my town has turned out an incompetent person. Replacing brake pads is simple (5 minutes of work). However, the guy didn't make the most basic action: Adjustment. That way, one of the pads worked at an angle and wore out immediately. I swear: the local guy can only true a wheel, nothing else! Kill! Kill!

Riding to Jacek on Wednesday (Epiphany holiday in Poland) so my brother will replace the pads again (I've got spares) and will adjust the brake. I could do it myself but I love those brotherly rides! :)
 
When racing karts they came out with ceramic bearings for lower rolling resistance. Wonder if that would work in the bike world.
They are available, but expensive;


 
The next issue detected by Jacek have been worn brake pads (almost new ones!) in the front brake. You know why? The bike mechanic in my town has turned out an incompetent person. Replacing brake pads is simple (5 minutes of work). However, the guy didn't make the most basic action: Adjustment. That way, one of the pads worked at an angle and wore out immediately. I swear: the local guy can only true a wheel, nothing else! Kill! Kill!

Riding to Jacek on Wednesday (Epiphany holiday in Poland) so my brother will replace the pads again (I've got spares) and will adjust the brake. I could do it myself but I love those brotherly rides! :)
Hi Stefan. What adjustment, they are hydraulic? Do you mean loosening the caliper mount and recentering it by applying the brake and then retightening? This normally doesn’t need to be done unless there was an alignment issue to begin with.
 
Hi Stefan. What adjustment, they are hydraulic? Do you mean loosening the caliper mount and recentering it by applying the brake and then retightening? This normally doesn’t need to be done unless there was an alignment issue to begin with.
Perhaps the caliper pistons did not not get reset correctly?
 
Perhaps the caliper pistons did not not get reset correctly?
What do you mean by reset? If the pistons were pushed out enough to fit the new pads and allow the rotor to slide in between them, I would think all should be good. The pistons/pads should then self center on the rotor.
 
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What do you mean by reset? If the pistons were pushed in enough to fit the new pads and allow the rotor to slide in between them, I would think all should be good. The pistons should then self center on the rotor.
The pistons can be damaged when resetting them, esp if something like a screwdriver is used to move them back into place. They can also become skewed if they are reset too forcefully from just one edge. It's never happened to me, but they can be forced out of their mounts if the brake lever is bumped with the pads removed. Reinstalling the pads provides new opportunities for errors, or so I'm told.
 
The pistons can be damaged when resetting them, esp if something like a screwdriver is used to move them back into place. They can also become skewed if they are reset too forcefully from just one edge. It's never happened to me, but they can be forced out of their mounts if the brake lever is bumped with the pads removed. Reinstalling the pads provides new opportunities for errors, or so I'm told.
I guess I can see that happening. You’d have to be a pretty bad hack to do so though!

I guess ”adjustment” is what threw me.....
 
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Hi guys!
Thank you for your remarks. Jacek was always resetting the pistons properly with the proper tool. and yes, I meant re-centering the calipers.
 
Interesting reading. Remember if the wheel bearings and bb are replaced with ceramic that is x3, or 6 bearings total. For a kart it was x4 wheels, but I never did fork out $ for the testing.

Stefan will like this::)

The material also does not rust preventing the balls and races from seizing up if the bearings get contaminated. A simple cleaning and re-greasing will often bring new life to an abused bearing.

And I forgot about the seals creating drag, that is seen in engine building also.
 
Jacek Has Found (To Our Shock) the Reason For Skewed Wear Profile of the Vado TRP Zurich Brake Pads...

He determined only one in four pistons in each of my Vado brakes worked! The reason was contamination of the outer piston surfaces with deposit from rainwater etc. So he:
  • Activated each piston by blocking all other with a flat tool and depressing the brake lever many times;
  • Cleaned the outer surface of each piston;
  • Reset the pistons;
  • Replaced the brake pads;
  • Centered the brake calipers;
  • Bled the hydraulic lines for both brakes.
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Now, the brakes have immense stopping power, and the brake levers feel firm.

We have also measured the chain stretch. After 2 months and over 1000 km ridden, the chain stretch was only 0.1 mm for 10 links! :)
 
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Stefan, when you wheel bearings start to go that effects the brake disc being centered between the pads. Might have contributed to your premature issue:).
Might be, Marcela, but Jacek has demonstrated the reason to me very clearly. After he took the front wheel off, he depressed the brake lever. Only one piston in four moved! Jacek took his time to make all four pistons move and be working.

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Wear profile. I have to add the opposing brake pad was not worn at all (because pistons at that side didn't work), and that pad could be re-used.

The point is, the identical but not as dramatic thing occurred to the rear brake pad (as the rear brake never works so strongly as the front one). All in all, one new brake set from N & T (Noah & Theo in UK) was used, while two non-worn pads went for the rear brake. Now, I have ordered as many as 4 spare original TRP Q20.11 brake pad sets just for my stock; from Bike Components in Germany.
 
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Might be, Marcela, but Jacek has demonstrated the reason to me very clearly. After he took the front wheel off, he depressed the brake lever. Only one piston in four moved! Jacek took his time to make all four pistons move and be working.

View attachment 76190
Wear profile. I have to add the opposing brake pad was not worn at all (because pistons at that side didn't work), and that pad could be re-used.

The point is the identical but not as dramatic thing occurred to the rear brake pad (as the rear brake never works so strongly as the front one). All in all, one new brake set from N & T (Noah & Theo in UK) was used, while two non-worn pads went for the rear brake. Now, I have ordered as many as 4 spare original TRP Q20.11 brake pad sets just for my stock; from Bike Components in Germany.
Too much wet weather riding?
 
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