Specialized Turbo Vado/Como/Tero/Tero X User Club

Stefan Mikes said:
The next issue detected by Jacek have been worn brake pads (almost new ones!) in the front brake. You know why? The bike mechanic in my town has turned out an incompetent person. Replacing brake pads is simple (5 minutes of work). However, the guy didn't make the most basic action: Adjustment. That way, one of the pads worked at an angle and wore out immediately. I swear: the local guy can only true a wheel, nothing else! Kill! Kill!

Riding to Jacek on Wednesday (Epiphany holiday in Poland) so my brother will replace the pads again (I've got spares) and will adjust the brake. I could do it myself but I love those brotherly rides! :)
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Hi Stefan. What adjustment, they are hydraulic? Do you mean loosening the caliper mount and recentering it by applying the brake and then retightening? This normally doesn’t need to be done unless there was an alignment issue to begin with.
 
McCorby said:
Hi Stefan. What adjustment, they are hydraulic? Do you mean loosening the caliper mount and recentering it by applying the brake and then retightening? This normally doesn’t need to be done unless there was an alignment issue to begin with.
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Perhaps the caliper pistons did not not get reset correctly?
 
Sierratim said:
Perhaps the caliper pistons did not not get reset correctly?
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What do you mean by reset? If the pistons were pushed out enough to fit the new pads and allow the rotor to slide in between them, I would think all should be good. The pistons/pads should then self center on the rotor.
 
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McCorby said:
What do you mean by reset? If the pistons were pushed in enough to fit the new pads and allow the rotor to slide in between them, I would think all should be good. The pistons should then self center on the rotor.
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The pistons can be damaged when resetting them, esp if something like a screwdriver is used to move them back into place. They can also become skewed if they are reset too forcefully from just one edge. It's never happened to me, but they can be forced out of their mounts if the brake lever is bumped with the pads removed. Reinstalling the pads provides new opportunities for errors, or so I'm told.
 
Sierratim said:
The pistons can be damaged when resetting them, esp if something like a screwdriver is used to move them back into place. They can also become skewed if they are reset too forcefully from just one edge. It's never happened to me, but they can be forced out of their mounts if the brake lever is bumped with the pads removed. Reinstalling the pads provides new opportunities for errors, or so I'm told.
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I guess I can see that happening. You’d have to be a pretty bad hack to do so though!

I guess ”adjustment” is what threw me.....
 
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Hi guys!
Thank you for your remarks. Jacek was always resetting the pistons properly with the proper tool. and yes, I meant re-centering the calipers.
 
Interesting reading. Remember if the wheel bearings and bb are replaced with ceramic that is x3, or 6 bearings total. For a kart it was x4 wheels, but I never did fork out $ for the testing.

Stefan will like this::)

The material also does not rust preventing the balls and races from seizing up if the bearings get contaminated. A simple cleaning and re-greasing will often bring new life to an abused bearing.

And I forgot about the seals creating drag, that is seen in engine building also.
 
Jacek Has Found (To Our Shock) the Reason For Skewed Wear Profile of the Vado TRP Zurich Brake Pads...

He determined only one in four pistons in each of my Vado brakes worked! The reason was contamination of the outer piston surfaces with deposit from rainwater etc. So he:
  • Activated each piston by blocking all other with a flat tool and depressing the brake lever many times;
  • Cleaned the outer surface of each piston;
  • Reset the pistons;
  • Replaced the brake pads;
  • Centered the brake calipers;
  • Bled the hydraulic lines for both brakes.
1609959475371.png

Now, the brakes have immense stopping power, and the brake levers feel firm.

We have also measured the chain stretch. After 2 months and over 1000 km ridden, the chain stretch was only 0.1 mm for 10 links! :)
 
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Marcela said:
Stefan, when you wheel bearings start to go that effects the brake disc being centered between the pads. Might have contributed to your premature issue:).
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Might be, Marcela, but Jacek has demonstrated the reason to me very clearly. After he took the front wheel off, he depressed the brake lever. Only one piston in four moved! Jacek took his time to make all four pistons move and be working.

1610063448381.png

Wear profile. I have to add the opposing brake pad was not worn at all (because pistons at that side didn't work), and that pad could be re-used.

The point is, the identical but not as dramatic thing occurred to the rear brake pad (as the rear brake never works so strongly as the front one). All in all, one new brake set from N & T (Noah & Theo in UK) was used, while two non-worn pads went for the rear brake. Now, I have ordered as many as 4 spare original TRP Q20.11 brake pad sets just for my stock; from Bike Components in Germany.
 
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Stefan Mikes said:
Might be, Marcela, but Jacek has demonstrated the reason to me very clearly. After he took the front wheel off, he depressed the brake lever. Only one piston in four moved! Jacek took his time to make all four pistons move and be working.

View attachment 76190
Wear profile. I have to add the opposing brake pad was not worn at all (because pistons at that side didn't work), and that pad could be re-used.

The point is the identical but not as dramatic thing occurred to the rear brake pad (as the rear brake never works so strongly as the front one). All in all, one new brake set from N & T (Noah & Theo in UK) was used, while two non-worn pads went for the rear brake. Now, I have ordered as many as 4 spare original TRP Q20.11 brake pad sets just for my stock; from Bike Components in Germany.
Click to expand...
Too much wet weather riding?
 
Hi everyone, so I'm taking my 20' Vado 4 into my LBS to get the firmware updated. I have done that since I got the bike back in May of last year. But I was also going to have them replace the front chain ring from a 40t to 48t. I think too I'll have the chain replaced while they're at. The bike is only at 1000 miles. But is there anything else I should have them look at or do?
I have had some electronic gremlins where the motor lost power during a ride and I had to turn it off and on to get it back, so I will bring that up. Other than that the bike has been a blast to ride and has definitely help during covid with getting outside for some fresh air!
Thanks
 
dbison said:
Hi everyone, so I'm taking my 20' Vado 4 into my LBS to get the firmware updated. I have done that since I got the bike back in May of last year. But I was also going to have them replace the front chain ring from a 40t to 48t. I think too I'll have the chain replaced while they're at. The bike is only at 1000 miles. But is there anything else I should have them look at or do?
I have had some electronic gremlins where the motor lost power during a ride and I had to turn it off and on to get it back, so I will bring that up. Other than that the bike has been a blast to ride and has definitely help during covid with getting outside for some fresh air!
Thanks
Click to expand...
I'd suggest;

Clean the power terminals on the battery and the frame; helps with 'gremlins'.

Check the brake pads; my first set was done at 500 miles on steep terrain.
 
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