Source of 48t steel chain ring

Deacon Blues

Well-Known Member
I'm looking for a source for a 48t steel chain ring to fit our Ultra motors. I'd rather not deal with Alibaba, if I don't have to, since it could take a considerable length of time to get it delivered to N.A.
 
I wouldn't be surprised if I end up wanting a different chain ring as 25 or 28 mph is the fastest I care to go and on the other hand I very much enjoy crawling along on EMTB climbs. And, I think I'll try the SS the first time - hoping it will be the only.
 
It finally stopped raining, so I took advantage of the decent weather to go for a 70km ride (40miles).
Because the chain still skips in the smallest 11t cassette cog I didn't go lower than the 13t cog, which topped out my maximum cruising speed at around 20-21 mph at my preferred cadence (around 80).
My goal is to be able to cruise at a bit higher speeds, maybe in the 22 to 25 mph range. I don't often ride at those speeds, but there are times when I want to haul ass.
 
It finally stopped raining, so I took advantage of the decent weather to go for a 70km ride (40miles).
Because the chain still skips in the smallest 11t cassette cog I didn't go lower than the 13t cog, which topped out my maximum cruising speed at around 20-21 mph at my preferred cadence (around 80).
My goal is to be able to cruise at a bit higher speeds, maybe in the 22 to 25 mph range. I don't often ride at those speeds, but there are times when I want to haul ass.
Does a new / better chainring fix the skipping problem?
 
My theory is with the larger chain ring I'll be able to cruise at the speed I want while using the 13t or 15t cogs. I'll probably never solve the skipping in the 11t cog, so hopefully with the larger front ring I won't have to use it.
There is a chance the larger front ring could slightly increase the chain cross and chain skipping. We'll see how it goes.
 
My theory is with the larger chain ring I'll be able to cruise at the speed I want while using the 13t or 15t cogs. I'll probably never solve the skipping in the 11t cog, so hopefully with the larger front ring I won't have to use it.
There is a chance the larger front ring could slightly increase the chain cross and chain skipping. We'll see how it goes.
That sounds right to me. (I'll be interested to hear/see if Lsthrz's "No" in any way applies to what you said here.)

One thing that surprises me Deacon Blues is that you aren't getting a bigger jump in predicted mph.
 
The chainring may help with higher top speed, but as discussed in other threads, skipping on the smallest cog is a different issue.
 
The chainring may help with higher top speed, but as discussed in other threads, skipping on the smallest cog is a different issue.
You have a link to those threads or TL,DR about the issue?
 
Most of the discussion is in the ‘Hydra has Landed’ thread.

Solutions or help for the small cog(s) 11/13 skipping issue are:
1. Larger derailleur cage and pulley system (like Garbaruk or others)
2. Moving from the Shimano RD-8000 to the 8100 and also likely the 8130
3. And moving the chainring outboard via spider-flip and/or spacers

at least this is what I know of from my and other members experience here with this issue
 
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Also, if you have not already done so, make sure the clutch on the derailleur is in the engaged or up position. That stiffens up the pivot on the derailleur cage and definitely keep the chain from bouncing, thereby reducing chain drops. it is engaged by a grey plastic lever near the top of the derailleur on the 11 speed GrX as well as the XT. I have not dropped the chain once on my Neo3 and ride in the 11 tooth cog quite frequently with a 48 tooth front chainring.
 
Just an FYI on speed, cadence, gearing. Look up Sheldon Brown Gear Calculator. It will give you speeds capable at a certain cadence with whichever gearing you plug in.

And yes chain skipping is a backend thing, chain drop is a front one.
FWIW I run a Wolftooth 39t narrow/wide chainring and either a n 11-42 or right now a 11-34 cassette in the rear with the shimano XT 11 spd shifter and derailer and I can't ever remember having the chain skip once. Quality chains make a difference. I use the KMC 11E series and make sure its fairly clean when I ride.
Make sure whatever gearing you have to align your chainline as straight as possible in the MIDDLE of your gears that way the deflection under load is evenly spaced going either way.
You guys probably know all this anyway but what the hay. I bored, gonna go for a ride.
 
Most of the discussion is in the ‘Hydra has Landed’ thread.

Solutions or help for the small cog(s) 11/13 skipping issue are:
1. Larger derailleur cage and pulley system (like Garbaruk or others)
2. Moving from the Shimano RD-8000 to the 8100 and also likely the 8130
3. And moving the chainring outboard via spider-flip and/or spacers

at least this is what I know of from my and other members experience here with this issue
A couple more things here
1. We have a. smaller cassette now (11-46T) - confirmed with Shimano that 8000 tops out at 46T. All hydras shipped in the past couple of weeks have the smaller cassette as default.
2. We have tried moving the chainring outboard - but probably not needed with this change.
3. The B screw adjustment is absolutely critical with this change. Looking for a good video for the B screw adjustment - will post it as soon as find something good.


If you have a hydra and are still facing skipping issues, please reach out to [email protected] and we can ship you the smaller cassette. I believe we have swapped around 15 or so people already. So we shouldn't have more than 10-15 more people with that lot of cassettes.
 
Thanks @pushkar excellent information. Yes, I should have mentioned the B screw adjustment - with input from others here, I found that adjusting that really helped with the small cog chain wrap - critical.
 
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