Sondors MXS review and info

mjorg

Member
I've had my new MXS for about 3 weeks now. Some of you might remember me as outing Juiced batteries as being too expensive and Rad motors as being underpowered. I bought the Sondors MXS because their batteries are $399, much less expensive than most. If anyone has questions about this bike and my wants my opinion in general...lets get started!
 
It is not as powerful as I expected. When communicating with Sondors they told me that they contract for more powerful motors than stock from Bafang. I wonder how true that is. My old bike is direct drive 1,000 watt Ecotric Seagull (cheapo). I expected the Sondors MXS to be slightly more powerful. It is where I need it at the very low end, and it has more top speed. But in the mid-range the Seagull wins hands down. Part of the problem may be the 27 1/2 inch wheels. Might be better with 26 inch. In most other ways I really love the Sondors. The frame design is very stable and I need that in the mountainous terrain I live in. I love that enough that I might buy it again (if needed). I say that because maybe... the Seagull is just a lot better bike than I thought. The other issue I have is with the battery. It seems shy of it's 17.5 Ah rating relative to the Seagull's 14 Ah battery.
 
It is not as powerful as I expected. When communicating with Sondors they told me that they contract for more powerful motors than stock from Bafang. I wonder how true that is. My old bike is direct drive 1,000 watt Ecotric Seagull (cheapo). I expected the Sondors MXS to be slightly more powerful. It is where I need it at the very low end, and it has more top speed. But in the mid-range the Seagull wins hands down. Part of the problem may be the 27 1/2 inch wheels. Might be better with 26 inch. In most other ways I really love the Sondors. The frame design is very stable and I need that in the mountainous terrain I live in. I love that enough that I might buy it again (if needed). I say that because maybe... the Seagull is just a lot better bike than I thought. The other issue I have is with the battery. It seems shy of it's 17.5 Ah rating relative to the Seagull's 14 Ah battery.
Question, what is the amp rating on the seagull controller?
 
I don't know. There are no specs anywhere. It's a little fin of metal pushed into a tiny compartment over the kickstand. I replaced the kickstand because it was way too small for the bike. That was a scary endeavor because of all the tiny weak wires stuffed into that small area. My Sondors controller gets very hot. I wonder how hot the Seagull controller must get given it's size. But, it works...
 
I don't know. There are no specs anywhere. It's a little fin of metal pushed into a tiny compartment over the kickstand. I replaced the kickstand because it was way too small for the bike. That was a scary endeavor because of all the tiny weak wires stuffed into that small area. My Sondors controller gets very hot. I wonder how hot the Seagull controller must get given it's size. But, it works...
For reference my Sondors Fold XS is 20 amps, your MXS is 25 Amps, one thing most people may not know is that the controller amps really effects net power and speed.
Bolton Ebikes actually sells an upgrade for Sondors to 35 amps in the secondary market, this would power up any Sondors. He sells them for RadRovers too, and people that have upgraded have said it makes a huge difference.
If you want to compare Ebikes the most important thing really is the controller amps and the battery volts A X V =W
The "750W" nominal rating is marketing to keep it legal, the reality is much different.
Link
Controller Upgrade
 
For reference my Sondors Fold XS is 20 amps, your MXS is 25 Amps, one thing most people may not know is that the controller amps really effects net power and speed.
Bolton Ebikes actually sells an upgrade for Sondors to 35 amps in the secondary market, this would power up any Sondors. He sells them for RadRovers too, and people that have upgraded have said it makes a huge difference.
If you want to compare Ebikes the most important thing really is the controller amps and the battery volts A X V =W
The "750W" nominal rating is marketing to keep it legal, the reality is much different.
Link
Controller Upgrade
Thank you Ebiker33. That is something I most likely will do in the future. I'm a little worried about enforcement of the class 2 law around here. You can ride class 2 without a license and insurance on all the hike and bike trails. A couple weeks ago I saw two guys on bikes that I know are 2,000 watts. They were going way too fast and too close to people for safety in Tempe Town Lake park. If they hit someone it would be damaging, and that will happen the way they were going. When there are enough e-vehicles and accidents happening enforcement will come. I guess as long as I don't go over 20 mph in public places I'll be fine. People are idiots. I almost got hit by a scooter last week. I plan on keeping this bike. When the motor wears out, I'll probably replace it with a 1,000 watt one. But I crawl when I'm around people. I just need the power for steep inclines. Thank you so much for this information.
 
After owning the Sondors MSX for awhile I've come to this conclusion. It's probably as powerful as any 750 watt Bafang motor. My Ecotric Seagull has smooth, smaller 65 psi rated tires. They just roll a whole lot better. You've got to realize that a 750 watt motor is only one horsepower. I'm sure many of you have noticed speed reductions when riding into the wind. Because these are not motorcycles. They are low powered and any opposing energy is going to slow them down. Including great big fat tires with knobs. I'm was going to change these tires out to small hard ones like on the Seagull. But there is a lot of very fine gravel in the washes around here and I have gone down hitting them on the Seagull. The Sondors MSX gets through the washes with much more stability. So...it's the big fat tires that make this seem slow to me, and the fact the Seagull is a much better bike than I thought. I love my Sondors.
 
Yes fat tires are a compromise, my thought is if you have a good battery and motor, and controller it's worth it.
 
After owning the Sondors MSX for awhile I've come to this conclusion. It's probably as powerful as any 750 watt Bafang motor. My Ecotric Seagull has smooth, smaller 65 psi rated tires. They just roll a whole lot better. You've got to realize that a 750 watt motor is only one horsepower. I'm sure many of you have noticed speed reductions when riding into the wind. Because these are not motorcycles. They are low powered and any opposing energy is going to slow them down. Including great big fat tires with knobs. I'm was going to change these tires out to small hard ones like on the Seagull. But there is a lot of very fine gravel in the washes around here and I have gone down hitting them on the Seagull. The Sondors MSX gets through the washes with much more stability. So...it's the big fat tires that make this seem slow to me, and the fact the Seagull is a much better bike than I thought. I love my Sondors.
I have almost 7k on mine- it’s been a great bike,rear tire was replaced at about 3k- been thru 2 sets of brake pads- easy change! Switched to Shwalbe moto x smoother tires and added miles to my charge distance. You will eventually hear strange noises emitted from the rear hub- that will be the nylon planetary gears failing- have no fear replacement parts are available from Bolton Ebikes - you swap the guts out of the motor so no need for a crazy wheel rebuild!! Good Luck
 
I have almost 7k on mine- it’s been a great bike,rear tire was replaced at about 3k- been thru 2 sets of brake pads- easy change! Switched to Shwalbe moto x smoother tires and added miles to my charge distance. You will eventually hear strange noises emitted from the rear hub- that will be the nylon planetary gears failing- have no fear replacement parts are available from Bolton Ebikes - you swap the guts out of the motor so no need for a crazy wheel rebuild!! Good Luck
Boy, I sure hate to hear about those gears. I've suspected that they would be vulnerable. But, I've not heard of such failures before this. There might be something to direct drive motors. Thanks for the heads up.
 
Boy, I sure hate to hear about those gears. I've suspected that they would be vulnerable. But, I've not heard of such failures before this. There might be something to direct drive motors. Thanks for the heads up.
You know it sounds bad , but the worst part was attempting to get Sondors to send the exact replacement motor! After 2 order/wait/ship -oops wrong one,got brave and desperate,ordered just the gear cluster from Bolton-it was actually easy just had to rent a pulley puller and boom back in business- never owned a mid drive but I get a strong feeling when they fail- you are screwed-
 
I have almost 7k on mine- it’s been a great bike,rear tire was replaced at about 3k- been thru 2 sets of brake pads- easy change! Switched to Shwalbe moto x smoother tires and added miles to my charge distance. You will eventually hear strange noises emitted from the rear hub- that will be the nylon planetary gears failing- have no fear replacement parts are available from Bolton Ebikes - you swap the guts out of the motor so no need for a crazy wheel rebuild!! Good Luck
Great info.
 
You know it sounds bad , but the worst part was attempting to get Sondors to send the exact replacement motor! After 2 order/wait/ship -oops wrong one,got brave and desperate,ordered just the gear cluster from Bolton-it was actually easy just had to rent a pulley puller and boom back in business- never owned a mid drive but I get a strong feeling when they fail- you are screwed-
The Germans make e-bike motors. Wonder what their gears are made of? Sure seems like hardened steel would be the only way to go. Wonder if your situation is exceptional. I live in Phoenix I've had fears about this issue well before purchasing. But, this is the first instance of it happening, that I've heard of. As far as mid drive, maybe Bosh or Yamaha have metal gears. This is a real bummer if it's truly a factor.
 
The Germans make e-bike motors. Wonder what their gears are made of? Sure seems like hardened steel would be the only way to go. Wonder if your situation is exceptional. I live in Phoenix I've had fears about this issue well before purchasing. But, this is the first instance of it happening, that I've heard of. As far as mid drive, maybe Bosh or Yamaha have metal gears. This is a real bummer if it's truly a factor.
It’s a typical failure after so many miles-also being a rear hub I took advantage of the option to enable the thumb throttle and keep it class 3 simultaneously (a rule meant to be broken) I would think this instant torque helps stress those meshingnylon teeth- upon inspection I had found 3or 4 teeth broken and folded-
Having no allegiance to hub motors I do wonder who would be able to repair what appear to be a very complex system of parts in what would be the typically vulnerable bottom bracket zone of a mid drive system???
 
It’s a typical failure after so many miles-also being a rear hub I took advantage of the option to enable the thumb throttle and keep it class 3 simultaneously (a rule meant to be broken) I would think this instant torque helps stress those meshingnylon teeth- upon inspection I had found 3or 4 teeth broken and folded-
Having no allegiance to hub motors I do wonder who would be able to repair what appear to be a very complex system of parts in what would be the typically vulnerable bottom bracket zone of a mid drive system???
As I said in my previous message, I will get a Bosh or Yamaha powered bike. They are very high quality / engineering companies. I'll never buy another Chinese motor again if this happens to me.
 
It’s a typical failure after so many miles-also being a rear hub I took advantage of the option to enable the thumb throttle and keep it class 3 simultaneously (a rule meant to be broken) I would think this instant torque helps stress those meshingnylon teeth- upon inspection I had found 3or 4 teeth broken and folded-
Having no allegiance to hub motors I do wonder who would be able to repair what appear to be a very complex system of parts in what would be the typically vulnerable bottom bracket zone of a mid drive system???
Look what I found:
 
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