Some LMT'D updates

I’m scratching my head on the whole pedal hitting the ground thing. I’m going to measure mine - distance from bottom of crank arm to ground and report back. I’ve had zero issue with this - but I recall ebike escape’s video review of the LMT’D stating the same issue. Weird.

My pedal crank has 3.5 inches of clearance over the ground.

Mike - did R1Up address the cable/frame entry opening? Do they use a grommet there now? Picture?

Final note - my "Cone shaped spacer" (as described in R1Up's assembly video) is definitely different that the one yours shipped with.

[Edit - looking at my handle bar clamp, its a different style that what R1Up is shipping with the second gen. I'm also seeing people on FB start to figure out how to assemble the 2nd Gen spacers for the LMT'd]
 
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I gave up on assembling it tonight. I messed around with the fork for quite a while wondering what I was doing wrong. After checking out the Facebook page my bike was one of the ones shipped with the wrong size sleeve ring. Also the bolt on the top had a chunk of metal in the thread. Luckily I didn't try to tighten it down and had a few laying around to replace it with.

You may be mistaken about the sleeve ring...it doesn’t fit through the head tube. What I think you saw in the video was the sleeve was already sitting on top and came up with the fork shaft as he brought it through. The assembly videos are semi helpful, but they’d be a lot more informative if they used closer shots on a lot of the components.

Quality control and assembly instructions could be better, but from my experience it hasn’t been a deal breaker. I did get lucky and FedEx didn’t mangle my box. Fortunately, I own the basic tools for bike repair as there weren’t any tools included with mine.
 
Anyone check the spoke tension on the wheels yet? My right rear was between 24-25 on my tool and the left rear 22-23. I had to adjust a few to stay in that range of each other. Ride1UP has some different numbers on their support page.


Spoke Tension

Rear wheel, 12G spoke:

Left side 114-130kgs (Park tool, it should show 33-34 on tool)

Right side 150-172kgs (Park tool, it should show 35-36 on tool)

Front wheel, 13G spoke:

Left side 133-151kgs(Park tool, it should show 30-31 on tool)

Right side 104-117kgs(Park tool, it should show 28-29 on tool)

Spoke Length

700C: Rear wheel: 12G 238mm, 12G 240mm

27.5inch: Rear wheel: 12G 220mm, 12G 222mm
 
Well I got my bike. Considering I'm in the same state Nevada as the Ride1up warehouse, Fed ex did one hell of a job on the packaging between point A and point B. Considering the shape of the box when I received it the only things I noticed so far is the charger has some surface scratches since the cheap Chinese cardboard container for it was broken open which I can live with. Also a scratch/gouge in the front fork on the front black portion. I thought a crank was missing but the left is one the bike and the right is off to put on the sprocket. I'm going to double check the fork spacers placement on line and go out and assemble the fork.
I would have refused delivery if it showed up at my door like that.
 
My pedal crank has 3.5 inches of clearance over the ground.

I measured this on my Trek Hybrid. Not a perfect measurement, but looks to be about 4 1/2" from the ground to the bottom of the pedal at its lowest point with the pedal parallel to the ground. I've never had this happen in 13+ years with the bike. I've seen two people comment on this happening on FB in the last day, both with the LMT'D. One of them also said the pedal drags through the grass if he rides on grass.
 
These reports confirm my suspicion, that Ride1Up requires professional installation to compensate for lack of QC at the factory and/or temporary damage incurred in shipping.

Raleigh has a good system where you can get your bike shipped to a nearby shop and get it assembled for no additional price. The brand can secure discounts plus also ensure people are riding more safely. Prob would cost Ride $25-50 per bike, vs the customer paying double that. Plus you improve the customer experience while also reducing Ride's customer service workload.
 
This is something I feel should be offered but I understand logistically it may be a risk for both store and vendor.

Amazon offers this type of service but it’s extra and I’ve seen it cost $100+.
 
I took mine to Southwest Bikes in Las Vegas to have the derailleur and both brakes aligned. They did it while I waited and charged $24.00 which I thought was very fair.
 
Received it 3 days earlier than FedEx said it would come, box was in excellent shape. I was amused that they took the cue from Vanmoof and put a picture of a tv on the box.

I was confused by the fork/headtube parts issue, too. Even though the split compression ring leaves a gap, there's no play in the fork. I'm waiting to hear back from Ride1up about it.

Some of the rear wheel spokes were completely slack - no tension at all. The front wheel was fine.

Installing a standard bottle cage makes removing the battery impossible. Haven't worked out if it's going to be easier to charge it on or off the bike depending on where it's stored, but I'll be looking for a cage that won't interfere with removal.

So far the biggest issue is the battery life indication on the display. It came charged, and over a few uses I ran it down to 14%. Noticed that the percentage would fluctuate up and down depending on power draw. Then after a full recharge, the display didn't move from 100% for 11 miles of use of moderate power output.

I'm a little concerned that at high power output there's an inconsistent highly "metallic" sound from the motor. May have to try to get a recording of it.

Otherwise, we love it.
 
These reports confirm my suspicion, that Ride1Up requires professional installation to compensate for lack of QC at the factory and/or temporary damage incurred in shipping.

Raleigh has a good system where you can get your bike shipped to a nearby shop and get it assembled for no additional price. The brand can secure discounts plus also ensure people are riding more safely. Prob would cost Ride $25-50 per bike, vs the customer paying double that. Plus you improve the customer experience while also reducing Ride's customer service workload.
Ash...my buddy stopped by on his new Raleigh and that is one bike company that has gone downhill ! Betcha they sold out to a Chinese company like Schwin did. I don't have my 700 yet but when my buddy saw the picture and spec sheet, he said : "I shoulda done more research".
 
These reports confirm my suspicion, that Ride1Up requires professional installation to compensate for lack of QC at the factory and/or temporary damage incurred in shipping.

Raleigh has a good system where you can get your bike shipped to a nearby shop and get it assembled for no additional price. The brand can secure discounts plus also ensure people are riding more safely. Prob would cost Ride $25-50 per bike, vs the customer paying double that. Plus you improve the customer experience while also reducing Ride's customer service workload.

I appreciate what you’re saying, although Ride1Up has always recommended professional assembly...at least since I started looking at and researching e-bike’s. One of the differences between Ride1Up and Raleigh is R1U has only been around for a year and a half. Raleigh has been building and selling bikes for decades and has an established dealer network that allows them to offer services like that. I imagine Kevin and his R1U team are far smaller and have neither the hours, nor the funds to establish a network like that. Unfortunately, the mobile assembly options they refer to their buyers either aren't available everywhere, or are booked out several weeks. Local bike shops may also be booked as this virus thing created a whole lot more interest in biking, and some are hesitant to work on e-bikes because the electronics are beyond their scope of experience. Personally, I think R1U is doing a pretty good job for being such a young company, and is putting out a superior product for the price. The mech who inspected my LMT’D and tightened the crank mouth hit the floor when I told him it was an $1800 bike. He had assumed it cost at least $1000 more by looking at everything while he was inspecting it and comparing to other e-bikes he had worked on. I have no reservations recommending R1U to anyone, although I will also recommend having paying for assembly, or at the very least make sure it’s inspected by a pro mechanic. The farther technology advances, the harder it becomes for DIY mechanics for any kind of vehicle. Hats off to Kevin and the R1U crew for continuing to listen, provide quality service, and continue to adapt as they learn.
 
I wasn't really criticizing Ride for not having Raleigh's system, just that Raleigh's system is something to strive for, and fixes some of the problems of going consumer direct.

Raleigh has been in bad financial straits which is a shame because they make some great bikes, my previous pedal bike was an innovative Raleigh thats been sold out for a year plus, the Redux

The farther technology advances, the harder it becomes for DIY mechanics for any kind of vehicle.
If anything, it's the opposite. Technology starts out as proprietary and becomes open and modular as patents expire. See also Raspberry Pi. Bikes have been around 120 years and are as modular as ever. Carmakers intentionally keep tech proprietary to enrich their dealers.
 
I appreciate what you’re saying, although Ride1Up has always recommended professional assembly...at least since I started looking at and researching e-bike’s. One of the differences between Ride1Up and Raleigh is R1U has only been around for a year and a half. Raleigh has been building and selling bikes for decades and has an established dealer network that allows them to offer services like that. I imagine Kevin and his R1U team are far smaller and have neither the hours, nor the funds to establish a network like that. Unfortunately, the mobile assembly options they refer to their buyers either aren't available everywhere, or are booked out several weeks. Local bike shops may also be booked as this virus thing created a whole lot more interest in biking, and some are hesitant to work on e-bikes because the electronics are beyond their scope of experience. Personally, I think R1U is doing a pretty good job for being such a young company, and is putting out a superior product for the price. The mech who inspected my LMT’D and tightened the crank mouth hit the floor when I told him it was an $1800 bike. He had assumed it cost at least $1000 more by looking at everything while he was inspecting it and comparing to other e-bikes he had worked on. I have no reservations recommending R1U to anyone, although I will also recommend having paying for assembly, or at the very least make sure it’s inspected by a pro mechanic. The farther technology advances, the harder it becomes for DIY mechanics for any kind of vehicle. Hats off to Kevin and the R1U crew for continuing to listen, provide quality service, and continue to adapt as they learn.
From some of the posts I viewed on R1U's Facebook page, looks like many just want cheap and buy an assemble yourself bike with no mechanical ability. I can understand why R1U suggests a Pro to assemble. I chose R1U because cheap AND components were my guidelines. I think I remember a R1U comment that 95% of the complaints are because of assembly errors. Another big factor was to prove this poster wrong: :

"No it’s fact. The bike (700) has very cheap parts and not even an bafang motor. 1000 bikes have to be made cheaply since batteries are expensive. Mid drives have far more power because they use the drive train. But hey it’s your money spend it how you will. The RU is a hub drive bike with really cheap components and it looks like some generic battery. it only has a cadence sensor the turbo (Specialized Turbo Vado SL 4.0 EQ @ $3500) is a light weight road bike made for light assistance use but would still have far more torque since it is a mid drive. its like a yugo and a mid priced car".

Too many people give opinions without real ownership knowledge and experience.
 
Ok follow up. I took the fork apart "one more time" and added that plastic ring and it took up the space but was not tight. Seems for better or worse that's how it goes.

Took the bike for a spirited ride. Some odd noises I don't hear from my Dapu 500 watt motor but I just put my headphones on. With the cafe handlebars I'm sitting upright and the speed is deceptive. Doesn't feel like I'm going that fast.

I had my Garmin GPS legend to verify the speedo but with the tire size set at 27.5 the display is showing much faster then the actual speed. If you set the tire size to 26 it is much more accurate. If your doing 15 mph it is actually 15.2 mph GPS then.

Hit a big hole while speeding and the power shut off. I would suggest using a velcro strap like the one pictured from my other bike to snug the battery. I think the battery hopped when I hit the hole and lost power. That may be why some people are getting error codes at times.

Have to get used to the torque sensor. Much more of a workout then the cadence sensor. Torque you have to push down but the cadence as long as I'm rotating the crank the motor is pushing me.

So all in all It's not a bad set up. We'll see how it holds up. Have the PAS set at 0-5. Came out of the box 1-3.
 

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Also change the battery display from percentage to voltage. You will get a much more accurate picture of the remaining power.
 
Mike - nice work! Did R1Up do anything about the wire/cable entry into the frame? Rubber grommet? Or still just an opening?
 
There is a rubber grommet where the cables enter the frame near the headset, but not where they exit at the bottom bracket. Someone mentioned how low the pedals are the ground. This is confirmed.
 
You can get a lot of exercise on the Ride1up cadence sensor bikes by setting PAS level & associated power low and pedaling hard to ride at a faster speed than the assist will provide. You can even adjust the power percentage down on each assist level. Kevin from Ride1Up recommends against doing that on the LMT'D.

Quote: "You cannot change the settings in the LMTD like you can with the cadence sensors. We went a mass email to LMT'D owners but I'm worried it was missed. Changing the percentages can cause problems."
 
There is a rubber grommet where the cables enter the frame near the headset, but not where they exit at the bottom bracket. Someone mentioned how low the pedals are the ground. This is confirmed.

earnerd - thank you. I measured the distance from my crank at it's lowest point to the ground. 3.5 Inches. Possible that the wide pedal format contributes... a shorter pedal may help? Although - the first I heard of this, it was the crank arm that had made contact...

I'm at 320 miles and no issues pedal/ground-wise.
 
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Seems to be a huge batch of LMT'Ds going out on the Ride1up Facebook page including mine. I received my Email with the Fedex tracking number saying delivery date is tomorrow. It has left the Fedex facility in Sparks NV. and I live in Las Vegas 400 miles away so I'm thinking there is a good chance it will be on time and hopefully not much transport damage. We'll see.
I live outside Philly and my 700 series was delivered on August 25th with no damage seems crazy that you're that close and the box looks like that.
 
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