The spoke tension in my 700 was way off . Kept getting ugly noises in acceleration. I tightened them but kept having issues so invested in a tension meter. I see them to dlecs then both wheels were way out of true so spent a couple of days straightening them. Had a few clicks, loosened some spokes while truing perhaps a bit too much, went back and wiggled each one and snugged any that felt loose. So far so good
Some LMT'D updates
- Thread starter Mike N.
- Start date
Sound might be loose spokes moving when a lot of torque is applied
Hi Lumpy (and everyone else) - I'm awaiting delivery on an LMT'D, and joined here to learn more about any issues, best practices, etc. Lumpy's new owner thread was very helpful, and helped my decision-making (thanks, Lumpy!). On pedal height, the best guidance I've found came from this bike thread, which indicates normal pedal height is "between 3 and 4 inches", and CPSC requires the bike be able to tilt 25 degrees without the pedal (or other parts) scraping: https://www.bikeforums.net/commutin...arance-should-you-have-pedal-ground-safe.html.
If 3-4 inches is normal, it sounds like the LMT'D is within that range. I don't have any advanced bicycle experience, though, so would defer to anyone with better info.
[edit] How much would suspension sag factor into this? If the crank is 3.5 inches when the bike is unloaded, it may be less with a rider aboard.
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Mike N.
Active Member
I took a nice long ride today with a friend who has a Pedego by the Las Vegas wash. It is very technical trail with quite a number of hills with one very steep one. First thing I noticed was the LMT'D's motor is quite loud compared to my Dapu 500 watt. The Dapu sounds like a muffled swarm of bees while the MXUS is much louder. Not sure if it is due to being more robust for more speed and torque but it did seem less loud to me by the end of the ride. Possibly break in period or just me adjusting to the sound.
When I took the very steep hill before on my 500 watt motor in the highest PAS, largest rear gear and a running start it will barely make it to the top. The MXUS climbed that hill no problem in 8th gear but of course I had to provide the torque with my legs. It wasn't flying at the top but I never felt it would stall out on the hill like my other bike. We had a very brisk ride today traveling alot at 16-17 mph. At one point going back to the car I was so hot I just used the throttle for about 2 miles to take a break. It will cruise 22 mph on throttle. Also I was able to match my friend on the Pedego's speed with the torque sensor. With the cadence sensor it always seem like PAS 2 was a little too slow and PAS 3 was a little too fast. With the torque sensor I would just pedal a little harder or softer.
I can definitely say I'm getting a better workout with the torque sensor and it has more of a natural bicycle feel. Pedal hard and you'll go faster. I wish I didn't have to pedal as hard to go faster since I have become lazy in my old age. By the time we got back to the car the battery was between 48 and 49 volts. I forgot to reset the controller and didn't have my Garmin GPS so I was unsure of the mileage we did. I know the amount of elevation changes we did usually suck alot of power so the battery performed well with about 50% left.
I sold a 2019 Giant mid drive to purchase the LMT'D since it did not a have throttle and had a motor limiter that would shut it off at 20 mph. This is much better for my needs.
Also we had a coyote on the bike path in front of us. Seems they like the path to get around too!
I found a video of the path and at 4:40 you can see the hill I'm talking about.
When I took the very steep hill before on my 500 watt motor in the highest PAS, largest rear gear and a running start it will barely make it to the top. The MXUS climbed that hill no problem in 8th gear but of course I had to provide the torque with my legs. It wasn't flying at the top but I never felt it would stall out on the hill like my other bike. We had a very brisk ride today traveling alot at 16-17 mph. At one point going back to the car I was so hot I just used the throttle for about 2 miles to take a break. It will cruise 22 mph on throttle. Also I was able to match my friend on the Pedego's speed with the torque sensor. With the cadence sensor it always seem like PAS 2 was a little too slow and PAS 3 was a little too fast. With the torque sensor I would just pedal a little harder or softer.
I can definitely say I'm getting a better workout with the torque sensor and it has more of a natural bicycle feel. Pedal hard and you'll go faster. I wish I didn't have to pedal as hard to go faster since I have become lazy in my old age. By the time we got back to the car the battery was between 48 and 49 volts. I forgot to reset the controller and didn't have my Garmin GPS so I was unsure of the mileage we did. I know the amount of elevation changes we did usually suck alot of power so the battery performed well with about 50% left.
I sold a 2019 Giant mid drive to purchase the LMT'D since it did not a have throttle and had a motor limiter that would shut it off at 20 mph. This is much better for my needs.
Also we had a coyote on the bike path in front of us. Seems they like the path to get around too!
I found a video of the path and at 4:40 you can see the hill I'm talking about.
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That's one reason I chose the 700 series over a few other bikes- the PAS levels are adjustable
According to a comment from Kevin on FB yesterday you can adjust the PAS but not the percentages or other settings. I’ll try to find the post
Not sure what you mean? You can adjust the number of PAS levels and the percentage of each.
Here is the comment from Kevin on the FB group. Basically you can change the number of PAS levels but don’t mess with the other settings.
“We optimized the software to work with three speeds. I think with a torque sensor it's really best to not overdo it with a bunch of levels. But if you want to change the number of levels, it's okay. Just don't change the percentages, the current limit, assistant number, or start number.”
Mike N.
Active Member
Someone wrote this on the Facebook page. "Kevin said it’s OK to change the number of PAS levels, like what you did. He just doesn’t want anyone going into the settings and changing the percentage of each PAS level. Apparently it would cause the torque sensor to not function optimally."
So not function optimally is the key phrase here. It is easy to reset it to factory settings. Hold the power button and the plus button down at the same time.
So not function optimally is the key phrase here. It is easy to reset it to factory settings. Hold the power button and the plus button down at the same time.
Oh sorry, I was referring to the 700 series. I know this thread is about the LMT'D but I thought you had mentioned the cadence sensor on your other bike didn't have adjustable levels and you weren't happy with their preset levels.
Yes, he did say that, at least a couple different times as well as stating it early in the LMT'D assembly video. And it only applies to LMT'D, not the 700 or other Ride1Up bikes that use a cadence sensor. However, one user has reported changing his LMT'D power percentage settings with no performance problems. I would make a note of any settings before making any changes. Here are the power percentage settings that someone stated were the default for the 9 PAS level mode on his LMT'D BEFORE he changed them.
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Mike, I just received my Lmtd and struggling with the fork setup too. I’m not sure which split ring needs to be at the top of the fork. There is a split ring that has been forced down at the bottom... do I need to remove this and put on the top under the spacers.
Showing pictures of parts I received... curious as to your comment about the wrong split ring being sent. What’s the order of the spacer rings and split ring ? and the rubber dust seal
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I don't know looking at the video it looks like to split ring but go down first once you get it through the tube, with the smaller side facing down that way it would go inside the tube and center the fork, the larger diameter part of the split ring would be on the top. That's the way it was on my 700 series although I know this has a different frame but that's what makes sense to me. I'm no expert but my two cents
This is for a new LMT'D. the split ring that is shown in my first picture came installed this way on the fork, really pressed down into the base of the fork. I am not sure if this is the split ring Kevin refers to in his video that needs to be installed ontop... if so I need to figure a way to pry it out without damaging it. (if this is the one that needs removing...) I received 1x rubber dust seal ring, 1x conical spacer, and two cylindrical spacers. Do I need to remove that split ring (it almost looks like it needs to be there), or am I missing a split ring... before I try removing it, I was looking for Mikes guidance or anyone else that has installed the fork on the new edition of the LMT'd
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On mine I left the black split ring at the bottom. The silver one goes on top of the tube facing down, then dust seal, spacer, handlebar, 2nd spacer (I didn't want my handlebar to sit too high) and top cap. No free play on mine and the dust cap sits flush again the tube.
Thanks. I moved the silver spacer and I'm all setup.. Charging her up and will take her for a ride later today
Excellent and enjoy!
Mike N.
Active Member
Sorry, I just got back from a trip to Zion national park so didn't see your message. I was confused because like you I found out it was nothing like the LMT'D assembly video. All the parts were there but it took me a while to figure out the order. Lot's of people on the Facebook page were also scratching their heads.
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Ok. I am loving my new LMT’D even though I’m having a few issues which I’ve seen on the Facebook page others may be having too. 0watt issue -randomly where I cannot get power from the motor with either throttle or peddling the torque sensor. Stop,cycle the power to the screen and the issue resolved till the next time. I had this happen right at the beginning of a ride. I’ve also had it happen in the middle of a ride when I was turning around (did not engage motor while turning, then when I went to go, no power to motor). 0watt appears on screen without anyone errors
the second issue I have is similar however I get an over current protection erroron the screen and power is lost to the motor. Sometimes I see this error flash several times over a minute and it resolves itself.
these two issues are frustrating however I do love riding this bike and exploring my city!
Other than that a couple of small things. Missing cap for my right peddle arm, and the cable wrap that was sent for the handlebar cables was only 10”. Must have gotten an end of roll as it’s not long enough to wrap the cables
the second issue I have is similar however I get an over current protection erroron the screen and power is lost to the motor. Sometimes I see this error flash several times over a minute and it resolves itself.
these two issues are frustrating however I do love riding this bike and exploring my city!
Other than that a couple of small things. Missing cap for my right peddle arm, and the cable wrap that was sent for the handlebar cables was only 10”. Must have gotten an end of roll as it’s not long enough to wrap the cables
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